Our home, built in 1980, is still on the original HVAC system (with a few repairs I've made). It's a combined unit up on stilts, attached to one end of our long 4100 SF home. The other end of the home doesn't get much airflow and neither do the bedrooms. I'd like to install a dual-head mini split, one head in our bedroom and the other in my office where I train via Zoom in the afternoons. Both rooms get hot in the summer and it's a waste cooling the entire home low enough to cool these two small rooms (only 180 SF each). It would be OK if cool air flowed out in the hallway too to give the old system some help. Likely the smallest dual unit at 9,000 + 9,000 BTU is enough, or maybe 12 + 12.

I see brands that are familiar like Tosot, Turbro and Pioneer, since they make RV units. I also see Senville, Cooper & Hunter, Daiken, Della and others. Any brand preference? I see Senville has good reviews with a 5/10 yr warranty. I'd like to buy from an HVAC distributor vs. Amazon, but each time I find a link the $2K dual unit on Amazon goes for over $3K elsewhere!

Definitely need a dual head unit and the 2 rooms are side-by-side on one exterior wall which should make for a tidy installation. Time to drill into our home instead of the Oliver! 🤣

115V would be a close run. I could tap into a bedroom outlet which only has a nightstand lamp on the circuit. For 230V I can add a breaker and run wire from the garage along the soffit. Thinking 230V is more efficient, but not sure. Is R32 the best refrigerant or another kind? Lots of Qs!

Any installation or use experience out there? Thanks

It was cool in the mountains this morning.  I realized that I did not try the heater while at Oliver as it was in the 90's so I tried to turn on the heat. On the truma control panel, I hit the camper symbol and turned the dial to heat and set to 80 degrees and pressed the dial to confirm.  The fire symbol showed up above the line but no heat and no fan.  The hot water heater was working fine.

After researching I found the warning triangle on the screen and pressed it and code W255H came up.  In the manual it show this as a warning that the control panel is not communicating with the heater.  I turned everything off then turned the control panel off.  Then turned the Xantrex off (was running on battery.  Turned Xantrex back on then Truma CP back on.  Tried again and got the same error.  I hooked to shore power and tried again, still nothing.

Read the manual more and then decided to reset the Truma CP.  Probably not a good idea.  Now I have no symbols on the CP for heat or hot water, only AC and Fan which both work.  I posted on facebook and here to see if anyone had any suggestions.  Then I called Oliver and did not realize that they close at 11am on Fridays.  Hopefully someone here or on Facebook will have a simple fix for me, if not I will reach out to Oliver after the holiday weekend.

Happy Memorial Day and please remember all of those who gave us the ultimate sacrifice.

Reviving an older thread.  First, thanks for posting this.  These tracks - in which the glass panes slide and which are NOT the flexible rubber 1/2" black or white seal easily available from Pelland - are cracked in spots on our hull #701.  I'm trying to identify model of the (we think) Hehr windows and the specific part number and description of these tracks.  

There are both straight and curved pieces, which conform to the perimeter of the glass.  They appear to be segmented into 4" or 6" lengths.

If anyone has more info on these please post it. I'll share what I learn, if anything.

Thanks!!!
Tim

Thanks Bill

Strange... I was able to buy a full set of decals a couple of years ago. 

Will Prowse Sued by Dragonfly Energy Over Alleged False and Misleading Claims About Battle Born Batteries

Almost hate to post this video, but I am in week 1 of a 4 week loop and just encountered a major issue with the truma. The video speaks for itself. Any thoughts?

Here I used (2) 1”x2”x8 ft from an Ace Hardware store on the Keweenaw Peninsula 

Houghton MI

Door County WI

This time I picked up (2) pieces of 1/2”x10 ft EMT conduit from HD in Ellsworth ME. I like the conduit better than the 1x2 wood. The sewer hose supports slide better on the conduit and when I get home I’ll cut each conduit in half and turn a steel rod to just fit inside the conduit to make a splice for the halves. I thought I could stick the whole 10ft length into the Oliver aluminum rectangle frame rail but bolts through the rail prevent my doing this.

Bill

Thanks in advance.

https://youtube.com/shorts/QOvTdqhmEgk?si=yu9p2qfs7fkid0ch

Can someone suggest troubleshooting steps?

The pump is running and the valves are properly set.

Thanks

my 2c

• That Dometic cabin heater style exhaust can have issues at high elevations I believe, there's a high elevation exhaust you should install when in the mountains (according to videos I've seen on this type - may not be true for this model). I've got an unused one if 2027 owners want one 🙂
• "Soft main cabin lights" - did they change that? Anyhow actinic bright overheads on the main cabin fan, I'd rather do without
• Ironically they show the new solar awnings in partial shade which takes down the whole panel, unless they have a sectioned panel with micros (unlikely). I think getting to deploy these and work will be the main issue. Anyhow I'm surprised at how well that 400W does, doing 1.2kWh on a good day easy
• Why did they change the front (and rear?) jack? Personally I prefer the old one, 500 lb upgrade isn't much to speak of and not font of bubble switches. The older one looks better and more businesslike IMO
• More accurate tank readings is a big plus
• Mentioned before I'm not fond of the 'fully open' style new window. Looks  like you have to open the screens potentially letting bugs in (and they'll do it!), plus two handed operation. Fully open is nice for a house but don't see the need here, just IMO

Anyhow looks like a great trailer as usual and it's not sour beans because I bought a 26, but full honestly I do prefer this  years model, except on the tank monitering

I do put it out from time to time just to make sure it is working and to let it air out after a rain.

I put it out this morning.  Left it out for an hour or two and put it back in.

When it went in I did not hear that little clunk as it finished retracting.  Looking at the front of the awning it looks like it is not going all the way in, maybe lacks a half inch or so.

The first pic shows it out.  The second pic show the back of the waning.  It is all the way in.  The last pic show me pushing the front in.  It goes in with a push.

Am I imagining this?  Or is it not right?  Lastly, am I OK driving another 600 miles home with it out like that?

Maybe the most important question is; Can you tell me how to fix it? 

Thanks

One of my fixed (not slider) window thermoglass panes is clouding between the panes. I am guessing there is a break in the seal between the thermopanes.

Has this happend to anyone?

Has anyone been able to have just the glass replaced?

How would I get this fixed window removed to take to a repair shop?

Can any glass shop do the replacement?

Thanks

The maps update only take a couple of minutes while the system update takes 10 to 15 minutes.

Bill

p.s.  these updates are for (at least) the 890.  

I want a light with a real switch like the one in the bathroom.

I don't want to do anything to the existing light hole.  I understand I will need a hole for a switch.

Has anyone done this?

What light did you use, and where did you get it.

Thanks

https://www.awakenrv.com

And for a complete walk through check this one out. So many things done right. They are above my pay grade but competitive to Oliver pricing, actually a bit less.

Looking for help to source a replacement Dometic 9500E awning motor.  

A local RV service center (Big Country RV, Redmond OR) investigated my malfunctioning awning (wouldn't extend) and said it needs a new motor assembly.  However, they said awning is discontinued (so can't find a replacement motor) and quoted $4,400 for a new awning replacement.

I'm hoping to source a replacement motor and I've found motors for the Dometic 9100 awning but none that specify for the 9500 awning.  Perhaps they are the same motors but I'm not sure.  In addition, if I can find a replacement motor it seems I might need a special Dometic hex key tool to adjust it.  Would anyone know where to buy that tool?

If I can't find a replacement motor then I'd like to install a manual awning and have it use the same mounting system my 9500 has so I can avoid new holes in the roof.  Any recommendations on a manual awning?

Thank you,
Craig

2020 Hull 612

thank you for any guidance or suggestions