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The Allen screws can be turned in either direction. The plus and minus in the photo explains what happens when you turn that screw in that direction. For example, on the left side of the photo above, turning the Out screw counterclockwise reduces (-) how far the awning goes out. If you turned it clockwise instead, the awning would extend more. You want to turn your In screw in the + direction to make your awning pull in farther. Adjust it a little at a time and try the awning after each adjustment until you get it right.

Well maybe it was done in some past year but AFAIK 2026 is unique in that it I think is the only one with ‘crack open’ flush mount windows and roller shades, with valances on the top. Plus the long running Truma integrated system. One year only and boom - take it all out and go to a fully open window with new (presumably custom Oliver designed) shade frame. And too all new appliances. And yes the 2027 windows look like the same ones in the 2026 just with a different opening mechanism. This year's model opens a couple inches from a single handed center crank. Next year it looks like you open all the shades (including bug shade!) to access two side props in a two handed operation. So none of that at night half asleep. But the window does a 1/8 or 1/4 open. Otherwise it looks like the same window which is not recessed and overlays the windows frame and shell. It’s zero issue. Not sure there’s any more glass protection slightly recessed as previously or overlay as now. On the road debris will follow the air flow regardless. If anything recessed will create a slight low pressure pulling it in with vortices and such. Anyhow the only protection is the present overlay system as that protects the more vulnerable frame and especially gasket. It’s maintenance free whereas the present one has weep holes and such. I love the new window system and was ecstatic when I heard it was coming on the year I happened to be buying. It was long on my list, Escape pioneered this in eggs and I learned about the style there (except they use acrylic windows). For Oliver it completes the ‘marine style’ design. The only exposed gaskets they have now are the 120V socket and a few odds and ends like the roof gubbins.

@Tom and Doreen Hold on. I now see the motor. I can only see the Allen screw with the - sign. I think that is right. Your excerpt says "The motors are labeled with a + or a - to indicate the adjustment direction". Can the Allen screw only be turned one direction as indicated by the arrow?

Thanks so much. That sure sounds like it. I found it in the manual after you pointed it out. I had hoped it would show how to revel the motor, but your quote is verbatim. I DO NOT SEE the motor. Do I have to remove something to get to the motor?

I like the windows. It would be interesting if they can be retrofitted to our older trailers. Jason does a good job in the video! Mike

Jd, good modification! Our friends had their bikes stolen off the back rack and they heard it happening. They wished there was a rear light to scare them off. I was just thinking, it would also be real easy to add a 3-way rocker switch under the attic cabinet that could be reached from bed! I remember when looking for the street-side light switch leg that I also found the overhead lights wire. So I'd just keep looking, it should be there and perhaps a different color. Also, the switch leg is on the positive side. Anxious to hear how it goes! Geoff

Didn't know there is a 2026 ONLY variant. I was referring to our old sliders. The frame on the sliders sits on the hull, yet the glass is recessed and protected. The 2027 windows in the video look like the glass sits on top of their frame outside of the hull.

Geoff, maybe you can help me... Our older hull already has the Entry and Side Porch Lights on separate switches. What I'm working on is adding a 5th light, facing rear of the Oliver. I want the rear light to be on the same switch as the Side Porch Lights (streetside). So, when I close that switch all 3 lights, left and rear, will power ON. Without thinking this through, I was hoping to splice into the red wire you found above the speaker. However, this RED wire appears to be a power run for all cabin lighting. With a clamp amp meter, Side Porch Lights ON only I get close to +0.9A. When I turn on the Main Cabin Lights that same RED wire gets another +0.6A and each pair of lights, Kitchen and Rear Lights above the beds adds another +0.3A. Power is running through the RED wire no matter which cabin light is powered ON. Perhaps it worked for you to cut it off there, since it was the end run and you ran new wires from a new switch for the left side. I'm trying to piggyback, adding a 3rd light to the Side Porch Lights switch and was hoping to grab the switch leg back there above the speaker vs. running new wire all the way to the entrance switch panel. Then I tested for amperage at the switch and it reads only when the switch is ON. I need to find the switch wire at the rear if possible! I tested every other wire I could find above the speaker and could not find the negative switch leg, meaning no other wire showed 0.9A with the switch turned ON. Loved the idea of only removing the speaker, but perhaps a waste of time for my needs. It would be so convenient to wire at the rear, with a very short run not feeding wire all the way back through the curbside upper cabinets! Any ideas? And BTW, thank you again @Patriot for the link to the OEM lights! They were out of stock for a while and there back now On Sale! I purchased one for the Oliver rear and I got a couple extra for when one goes out I can renew both Entry side lights. These are correct and are quite pretty, brand new out of the box! https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319

I posted a few years ago on the Oliver PPF install. Your M3 is absolutely gorgeous 🔥, wow! I really like the XPEL stealth was a perfect choice. Thanks for the kind note on the Pro…its my 6th Tundra over the years and this one is a keeper. The 2.5 Gen Pro’s are becoming really hard to find especially one owner southern trucks. Gotta lot of love here for the 5.7 V8! 👍🏻

These ones you mean, the 2026 (only) variant? Or maybe you’re talking about the previous up to 2025 model. No worries doesn’t bother me, but I’d suggest it’s hard to know for sure unless you live with them. The only point I’m making is that the single handed opening is awfully nice. The crack does what it’s supposed to - let in plenty of air, and just the single knob means waking up at night because it’s gotten too cold it’s trivial to close while still half asleep. I do it all the time - love it. And also appreciate how the valances soften the interior. I will agree however that the roller shades are a little clumsy, you can knock into them at night. But it’s a classic look that softens up all the plastic and ‘glass IMO. Anyhow I’m just surprised they switched so quickly. Only people I’ve heard complain about the ‘26 windows was a tech at the factory who wanted them ‘to open wider’. Except he didn’t own one so 🤷‍♂️ They’re basically flush and no issues with wind. In fact I’ve driven at freeway speeds having forgotten and left them open 😅 but no problem. The key though is hidden gaskets. Oliver uses a marine design elsewhere is that the gaskets are hidden, like with the battery door. This is how they do it on boats, to keep gaskets out of the H20, salt and UV. I’ve seen videos where owners replace the recessed window gaskets with black ones because they pick up dirt and wear. Oh - cars too, notice how few of the gaskets on your cars are exposed - same design principle. Have the door/hood/whatever cover them where possible. But no worries they’re all good, we’re just nerding out here 🙂 Yeah I was diagnosing a user error and did a deep dive into it. Turns out Xantrex has been heavily iterating over the years, the latest version in the 2026 and presumably 2027 is not the same as earlier versions by a long shot. There’s two types of engineering failure I think - just bad engineering and ‘learning’ engineering. Personally I’m not faulting Truma for the recall issue, I don’t think that casts a shadow on them in general. Heck I bossed a German engineering team in Germany once, these guys are nuts and have a lot of pride. I think the fault is other RV OEM’s who didn’t do a recall like Oliver. And on Xantrex the number of iterations makes me suspect they just had a learning curve to go through. Bad engineering are the companies that just don’t learn and don’t iterate. Anyhow hoping to have good service with Truma and Xantrex. On Lithionics I believe in the company, watch some of the factory walkthroughs, they’re serious about this. Lots of fly-by-night companies doing batteries out there. We’re paying for the BMS and prismatic pouches, not some guys throwing a bunch of cylinders in there like everybody else.

Yeah exactly the tiny drawer in front of the sink. Shorter because the sink takes the depth. I was keeping cleaning supplies there but was kind of wasted as that was just for storing them while traveling. Anyhow I’ve since put the collapsable buckets and cleaning stuff in another drawer leaving this one. Not much else you can do with it but easy and perfect for the spices. I guess you could use it for bigger utensils, but I have the Foy utensils divider which takes everything. Problem is regular spice jars are too tall, I was using the OXO camping spice kit, but then that’s kicking around. So happy to find these slightly undersized ones.

REALLY nice toy! Bill

Stealth Satin XPEL PPF with Gloss on Carbon fiber roof and black trim.

Is that below the sink? I have one of those Sand-Free Mats and it's the bomb! I think someone at the Oliver Rally had one. It's heavy but came with a bag.

Good to hear that CGI offers PPF as part of their services. We had our Oliver ceramic coated by CGI after we took delivery at the factory. CGI polished out all the swirl marks that were left by the factory and then applied the ceramic coating that has held up well over the last two years. When we got back home I had XPEL 10mm PPF installed on the lower front of the trailer (similar to how Patriot did his) by a local installer. It has definitely helped protect the fiberglass from impacts. We would have used CGI for the PPF if we could have, so the front of the trailer would have been protected on the drive home.

WOLFBOX MF100 or MF200, or MF200 with dual batteries. I have an Amazon business account, so the MF100 is $75.49 with the business discount, $95 for the MF200. The dual battery MF200 comes in at a whopping $123.49 https://www.amazon.com/WOLFBOX-MF200-2PK-Compressed-Duster-Hurricane-Force/dp/B0GH6L9CP3/

On to Clayton Lake State Park, near Clayton New Mexico first boondocking since we left home April 18 We were enjoying the COE sites at $12.50 per night with power and water gotta practice our energy and water management now Too much rain has been a little depressing, finally saw the sun today

Wild Bills RV and trailer park Boise Oklahoma overnight stop fantastic museum next door do not pass up the museum !!!

Thanks Dan for linking this video! I don't look much at the new models and this is a nice presentation, just 7 minutes long! Also no sour beans here, from someone who spent 2 years restoring a 2016 model! We will not be a new Oliver customer, just continue to upgrade and fully enjoy ours. They are really going with a Dometic A/C?!? 🤣 In all these years, still at the bottom of this learning curve. Looks like all the Truma issues will be behind OTT going forward. I'd have to use the awning more than 5 times in 2 years with all that solar up there! I wonder how practical this will be? Must be a heavy awning! We need all LP appliances to work effectively in altitudes up to 10K ft, a must for Colorado travel and elsewhere in the Rockies. 20A on a built-in DC-DC charger, but using the 12 AWG trailer wiring? OMG, you're not going to get 20A and if you do be worried about the wiring! I'll keep our Victron Orion 50A charger, that averages +40 Ah every hour towing. One very knowledge Forum member argued that the 4 AWG wire I used may be too light! You might get +10A on average with this configuration. This leads to OTT sticking with the Xantrex and Lithionics brands. This is not new! Almost everybody on this forum that has added or replaced an inverter has gone to the Victron Multiplus, most with the MP2. I do remember reading one post where a Xantrex was used to replace a FAILED Xantrex. Given the failure, I would have changed brands, but I believe it was chosen to simplify the installation with like kind. There are 100s of posts here citing Xantrex issues. And with all the new LiFePO4 batteries in the marketplace, a new quality brand at a better price point could be chosen. You'll get used to knowing your tank levels. More accurate, yeah sure, we've heard that one before! 🤣 That's what they said about our external tank monitors. We have learned very well how many days it takes us to fill our black and gray tanks. We're not ready for composting, the pee and poop handling, but it is the black tank that makes us return to the dump station! Gray water can be dumped on BLM and FS lands, so we can last a while leaving with 70 gallons fresh. I can guess exactly when we need fresh water, just before the water pump starts gurgling! Then we refill, from our auxiliary tank in the pickup bed. I have seriously not looked at that tank level display in two years, just don't need to. Windows? There are many here that truly dislike the current windows. Some leak when it rains and some have lost their seal between the panes. Our windows are in like new condition, no defects to date, knocking on wood. I enjoy the one-hand operation, especially when lying in bed. Awning windows, something else to worry about in high winds and rain? And if left open at all, even one inch when away, a thief could easily rip the window off and enter the cabin interior. I also do not like how they stick out on the exterior, where our windows are recessed into the hull, flush so taking no wind. We usually close our windows when towing, but if you forget these, there will be damage. I do really like the trimline blinds as the old-style sticks out almost 3" into the cabin interior. One gets in my way when I'm in bed. Our blinds need another hosing down this summer, Like I did when we first purchased our Oliver used My favorite part is the new kitchen counter setup. The new sink and cooktop looks great! However for boondocking, I'm not sure the compressor fridge and induction cooktop are preferable, appliances that cannot operate on AC/DC and LP. But with 900 Ah, oh what the heck! Chris loves cooking with induction, so we have a single-burner cooktop we plugin indoors or out (search for keyword 'induction'). For 2027, did they fix the cramped bathroom countertop/sink? Someday, I'll fix both, like Mike did for their kitchen:

Oliver is dedicated to continuous improvement, I like a lot of the changes. I think stepping away from Truma appliances is a good thing. I'd feel more confident traveling knowing that parts and service are more likely to be available for the new appliances. An integrated DC to DC converter is a great addition as well.

There is an adjustment for that. There should be a description as to how to make that adjustment in your "Oliver Standard Components Manual".

I have full XPEL PPF in stealth satin/gloss on my M3 with XPEL XR Plus tint 70/20. First place I took it after pick up was the detail shop. Also, have gloss bra coverage on the Tundra as well. Did you ever post about the PPF install on your Oliver? If you did, I must of missed it. It is great stuff, along with ceramic coatings, tint, etc. CGI is using another brand but still top tier PPF. Nice find on the 2020 Tundra PRO BTW, very popular move these days.

Yep - James Oliver constructed the spice rack/paper towel holder for the very first Oliver made way back when - see below.

Certainly not right. I would fully extend and retract your awning a couple times to see if you can get it to kick into place (hearing your "clunk"). If it stays out, I would tie it up on that end or both ends prior to traveling at highway speeds. Our Fiamma manual awning does not fully engage on the rear when closed. We travel with this strap in place. There is also a recent thread on this:

Spice drawer! Surely somebody figured this out but here's my solution, 3 oz jars. Stainless lids and nice thick glass. Holds 1/2-3/4 of a typical store bought which is plenty. There are the only ones I could find that fit height wise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX8S1Z7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797LHWYK