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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/25/2016 in all areas
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Scotty, I hear you about reading the manuals. I am definitely an RTFM kinda guy. I met with the head of the service department at the local Audi dealership, who regularly pulls trailers with a truck. He did not know about the Audi prohibition on WDH hitches. I learned about that from the online owners manual. Don, I pick up the trailer in September, so I won't be able to test the Weber grill until then. I saved web links from my research on the Weber and quick connect. The Weber is designed to hook directly to a propane tank, which is high pressure LP, and it has a regulator to step down the pressure. The quick connect is low pressure propane. The solution is to remove the regulator from the Weber. Here are some how-to videos from you tube: The videos mention parts, but here are some other sources. The first one also has a how-to video http://propanegear.com/weber-q-rv-quick-connect-kit/ http://caloreequipment.com/products/cl/weber-q-1-20-conversion-kit-for-travel-trailers.html Hope you can get the Weber working! David2 points
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Buzzy: I was enjoying the discussions on Solar Panels, Black Water dumping, etc then you posted the Ollie Song.....OH THE HORROR.....I think you're getting punchy with anticipation about picking up that new Oliver trailer! Now back to regular programming....2 points
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Before taking delivery I too thought long and hard about the graphics. I decided to NOT have a front graphic. The reason for this was due to the difficulty I've had in the past removing bug guts from the front of the camper. Now that I have had Twist on the road a few times I can report that the gel-coat is a bunch easier to clean than any camper I've owned previously, and, that was before a good coat of wax. I'm guessing that the vinyl graphics would be a bit more difficult to clean than plain, but to each their own. Bill1 point
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It was a nice sunny day today here in the NC mountains with the high temperature right at 80 degrees. I left the EZE RV Gutter laying on the concrete driveway for about two hours in order to soften it up a little and to (hopefully) take some of the "curl" that had developed in the 20 foot long piece that I bought. I then measured the width of the three long windows (48 inches) and decided that I wanted the gutters to extend down the sides about an inch or so beyond the end of the radius corner of the window. This added another 5 inches per side, so , I cut three pieces of gutter at 60 inches each just to be safe. (Note: I highly recommend cutting pieces for each window - it is easier to handle this way since a fair amount of the original curl in the product could not be eliminated and you do not have the weight of the pulling and possibly stretching the gutter as you go. This method does result in some minimal waste, but with a 20 foot piece you should have about two feet left over at the end of the job anyway.) Next I took Acetone and cleaned the area around one window at a time. Using a clean white rag and not rubbing too hard with the Acetone I continued cleaning until no dirt was visible on the rag. (Note: Acetone can be a very effective cleaner and can even take off paint, therefore, if you use it be careful to not rub too hard and do not keep the rag in one spot very long.) Then, just before starting to apply the gutter , I took another clean white rag and wiped down the same area with 70% isopropyl alcohol and dried that with a separate white rag. If I noted any type of dirt or residue on either rag, I cleaned it again. Using a pencil, I then lightly placed a mark 5 inches down from the top of the existing window molding on each side so that I would be able to make sure that the sides were even when I was done. I then peeled back about ten inches of the backing tape from the EZE Gutter and stated to apply it to the side of the camper on the right side of the window making sure that I carefully matched the bottom of the gutter to the edge of the existing window molding. Continuing this process across the top of the window I made sure that each section was firmly seated by running my fingers across each edge as I went. After getting about half way around the left corner of each window I looked for the pencil mark that I previously made on the window molding and cut the EZE Gutter to match that mark. Then the final bit of red backing tape was pulled off the gutter pressed in place. Finally, I took the butt end of an old tooth brush and went back to where I started rubbing the gutter channel making sure that the gutter was fully seated and that the edges were firmly stuck. Finally, this same process was used on both the rear and bath windows (obviously using shorter measurements that I now don't remember - sorry). Four hours later I went back to make sure that all was still stuck and it was. If anything comes loose, I'll let you know! Bill1 point
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With the Elite, if you have your awning extended, tied down, and some sort of screen room attached to make an exterior bug free room, it is possible to sit outside during a mild rain and enjoy the sounds and smells without getting wet. But, it the rain intensity ramps up and becomes a downpour, some of the water cascading off the top of the trailer may find a pathway over or around the rubber seal that Oliver placed between the outer shell and the bottom of the awning. It is then able to run down the outside of the trailer and may splash onto a chair that is sitting very close to the trailer. The cause of the most common water leak that may make it inside an Oliver has been failure to keep the channel under the sliding dual pane windows free of debris. This blocks the pathway for water to exit the weep holes. This is easily prevented by using a small brush and a can of compressed air to remove the tiny twigs and seeds which will inevitably find their way to the water channel when camping with the windows open underneath pine trees and the like.1 point
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