Leaderboard

The door on the basement hatch could be easily removed.

Not suppose to jack the axles. They can bend and be damaged.

One option might be to ask Oliver for an access door into the basement under the nightstand. Actually, I'm not sure if that's an option or standard these days. Anyway, keep the litter box in the basement and access it from the exterior hatch for cleaning. Either remove the interior access door entirely, or open it when camped. The only problem with leaving it open is that it sits on the floor and is likely to get stepped on. Maybe Oliver could be talked into hinging it from the side somehow.

Update,WX moderated today found suspected source of leak turns out to be the shower drain trap ring fitting loose. How to tighten down looks like a issue as getting a turn on it will be challenging . Maybe something like a old oil filter wrench or a spanner wrench used to tighten fire hoses might work. I used paper towels and a really bright led light for reflection purposes. Thanks John.........

I went through the pantry to minimize the length of runs and for ease of access. I tied the wires in the corner by the door so you don't see them. I tried going straight down between the hulls from that space, but something was blocking the way. There's got to be a free path somewhere around there though, possibly behind the pantry, since that's where the solar cables go down.

The wire chase between the top and the bottom is in the rear on the street side. I pulled a tape thru there right after Hull # 050 came off the line. I leave a length of weed-eater cord permanently there to facilitate any future wire pulls.

This paper booklet comes in the box with the scale, and I think it is one of the best and most complete guides to safe trailer towing that I have encountered. I am confident that even the crusty old farts with 40+ years on the road will learn a few things. Download it, read it, and save it for future reference. http://sherline.com/Wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/lm_book2.pdf When I have tried out my new 1000 pound scale I will post a review in a new thread. I did set it on the ground and I stood on the post. The gauge read 150 and I weigh about 155, so that is a good sign. https://smile.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-1000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REJTGI/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499310528&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=Sherline+tongueweight+cale John Davies Spokane WA

I used Mike's magnet-and-Command-Strip method, but found that I could put one magnet on the door and the other one inside the compartment under the seat. This has two advantages as far as I can tell: It eliminates adding another protuberance. It weakens the magnetic pull, making it easy to pull the door back and not put any strain on the door. (These magnets are pretty powerful.) I think that someone mentioned having to put something over the magnets to weaken the pull. Putting one magnet inside the compartment accomplishes the same thing.

So true. I’ve always been a European performance sedan kind of guy. The other vehicle in my garage is an Audi S3, no slouch in the performance department. But, given the choice, I almost always pick up my truck keys when I need to go somewhere. Maybe it’s age? Mike

We were all rookies at some time--I was less than two years ago. I was reluctant at first to ask basic questions here but found that folks were patient and willing to offer great advice, which I still ask for . . . As for leveling, we've found that Andersens work the best. (I will, however, never buy from this company again. The owner vandalized a natural arch in Utah and offered, in my opinion, an insincere public-relations apology. There are, it seems, good Andersen-type levelers out there.) Rolling up on these levelers is sure easier than working to build those pyramid-shaped forms with the "lego" pieces, as we did before getting the Andersens. We use the "lego" type blocks under the three jacks. As reported by others above, they reduce how much you need to extend the jacks, keep the ends from sinking into soft ground, and provide peace of mind that you won't be damaging the jacks should you forget to retract them before pulling your trailer. We use Tri-Lynx levelers and caps to build these blocks. After reading Mike's post and viewing his photo, I just put this into my Amazon shopping cart: Camco Yellow RV Wheel Stop-Stabilizes -Large (44622). These, in addition to our Camco Wheel Chocks, will provide extra stability and peace of mind that we won't be rolling off off the Tri-Lynx blocks or Andersens. Note: While I admire those who have built their own blocks to put under the stabilizers, I like that the Tri-Lynx are lighter weight than wood. Like Geronimo John, we store our blocks (Tri-Lynx) in a milk crate along with the chocks. The Andersens are pretty heavy but fit well in the "curve" of the basement compartment. Happy leveling and stabilizing.