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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/22/2019 in all areas

  1. Certainly your call on the usage of your trailer. We have had zero issues with big rigs, most of the dirt and grime come from gravel roads or construction areas. We have had a lot of both n the 9000 miles we have traveled to this point. But the rocks are mostly from our own truck as far as I can see. We drive slow when we need to and the Oliver has held up more than well under the trip, as least so far. You do have to exercise caution over the various rough roads and frost heaves but, for us, we simply love the scenery, vistas, mountains and wildlife we are seeing nearly every day. Grizzly bears, caribou, moose (four today near Anchorage), lynx, wolf, a host of birds I have never seen before, sea life everywhere and more. We have met some fascinating people and some of the history here is unique with its Russian heritage. Well worth any aggravation or future repairs in our opinion.
    4 points
  2. We were not sure what to do to protect the front of our Oliver on the Alaska journey. We looked into large mud flaps, but they would not fit, spray protection that turned out to be discontinued and more lasting but expensive solutions. We settled on yoga mats. Two $12 mats from Walmart and some non-residue duct tape and a little cutting produced a mat that we wondered if it would work and how long it would last. Well, it worked very well, lots of cuts and indentations on the mats. It also lasted - so far - for nearly 4000 miles and it is still intact. We have traveled miles on dirt and gravel roads as well as the Alcan and they still are working. So we are pretty pleased. The mats do not clean very well but we get the surface dirt off ok. An inexpensive solution to the rocks along the Alcan and well beyond. Total investment about $30. Daily posts at www.twolanetouring.com
    1 point
  3. The 2020 Oliver Travel Trailer Owners’ Rally will be held Thursday, May 14 thru Sunday, May 17, 2020. Once again, the Oliver Travel Trailer Owners’ Rally will be held at Lake Guntersville State Park, located in Guntersville, AL The cost for the 2020 rally will be in two parts: the rally registration costs (mostly rally meals), and the campground registration costs. At this time, we are working to lower the rally registration costs. We will announce the costs after we have adaquate sponsorship. We will be working with Oliver and the vendors to have rally sponsorship to reduce attendee costs. We do, however, know that campground cost is going to be $24.00/night (or $14.00/night for a boon docking spot). Camping Reservations –(256) 571-5455 For the 2020 rally, all the Oliver Travel Trailer Owners will need to call the campground and reserve their campsites for the dates that you want. They will ask for a one-night deposit of $24.00 (or $14.00 for boon docking). When you arrive at the campground for the 2020 rally, you will pay for your remaining nights in the campground. And then in a few weeks, when we finalize the rally costs, we will all need to call the Lodge to make rally reservations and pay for the rally costs. We will give you the exact rally costs as soon as we know. Thanks to everyone that attended the 2019 Rally. A big THANKS to all of the great volunteers. Fun was had by all, we learned much from each other and we are now better campers as a result of our rally. I look forward to seeing you next year. More Information and Registration here: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/2020-oliver-owners-rally/
    1 point
  4. Finished the install today. I have to say AmSolar may not be the cheapest but they sure put together a nice package that includes all the little things and have great customer service that includes a great wealth of information on their website. I was so happy to see 467 watts flowing into the batteries via the color screen and the online VRM portal. Now if only I could power up the AC without gen/shore power. I have a pretty nice Samlex hybrid inverter/charger/transfer switch that has been in a box for a couple of years now. I thought about trying to install it but will probably just wait and use Victron's version so everything plays nice and then the last big cost factor... Lithium. Solar is so much fun!!!
    1 point
  5. Hi y'all, Early this morning our host by our request migrated our website to a new dedicated server box, however we have some unexpected results and malfunctions. We have since reverted back to the old server while we work to figure out what caused the malfunctions. The reason for the migration is we're moving to a larger server mainly due to the growth of the community and traffic. Keep in mind we're doing our best to keep all topics, replies and comments backed up and moved together - this is why we chose to move very late at night / early in the morning. We're working out the details for the next attempt at a successful migration with minimal downtime. We'll keep you posted! We apologize for any inconveniences and thank you for understanding. - Oliver Team
    1 point
  6. Raspy and Dave, you are correct. The safety chains should each be able to carry the full load as there is no way to absolutely guarantee that both chains/hooks will share the load evenly. Having two chains allows provision for a backup in the event that one fails. I changed from the factory cable setup for several reasons, one being I got tired of cutting myself every time I had to wrestle the cables/hooks into compliance when attaching or un attaching them. Also they were only connected to the trailer tongue with 3/8ths bolts and fender washers. Lastly, the small hooks would not fit my truck hitch. I went with 3/8ths grade 70 chain and hooks and grade 8 bolts/nylon lock nuts. I believe that this chain has a breaking strength of 28,000 pounds. (That could be wrong, I haven’t looked that figure up in a while) anyway, there’re sufficient. Also don’t twist/knot the chains to achieve the correct length. That weakens them! Cut them to the correct length. I haven’t changed the break away switch cable but you are correct. The cable should not be infinite in length as our coiled cable is. It should be solid and just long enough so that if the trailer disconnects the brakes will apply before the chains reach their length limit. We (I) should get rid of the coiled brake safety cable version and get the true cable version that won’t stretch. It should be at the correct length. Also the brake safety cable should be attached to the tow vehicle or hitch directly only not to the safety chains. Sort of defeats the purpose if the chain breaks? I believe that the intent is to have an independent attachment point again for redundancy as with having two safety chains.
    1 point
  7. The HD suspension kit can be done at home with some jack stands and a floor jack. The bushings can be done, one side at a time, by pushing the new bushings in with a C clamp. This will push the old ones out and into a short piece of pipe or a deep socket on the other side of the spring eye. It can also be done with a piece of threaded rod, some nuts and washers. When ready, install the new pins with the grease holes facing fore or aft. Run the stabilizer jacks down and adjust until the weight is being shared with some jack stands under the frame. Lift the tire off the ground with the floor jack and remove it. Lower the jack until there is no weight being carried by the suspension on that one side only. Pull the shackle pins and the equalizer pins. Push the new bushings into the spring eyes and into the new equalizer. Reassemble the system on that one wheel with the grease holes placed as mentioned and with Locktite on the threads. Then do the second wheel on that side. Two floor jacks or some blocking might help. Torque the nuts to spec with a torque wrench. Make sure the zerk fittings are pointed to where you can get on them with the wheels on. Grease that side. Re-install the wheels and torque the lugnuts to spec. The go to the other side and repeat. Re-torque the lugnuts after a few miles.
    1 point
  8. The early models had the battery disconnect but they dropped it at some point. On my trailer, Oliver's side of the 12v electrical connects directly to a few items, like the CO detector, then through the main DC breaker, after which some other things break off, like the jacks, before anything goes to the fuse box. So at least on mine, there was no way to fully disconnect the batteries without removing a battery cable. There was also no disconnect for the solar. I added both, and it certainly makes working on things easier.
    1 point
  9. "Since you always carry your phone" Really? Sure must have a long cord in order to reach that far! Seriously - I do carry a prepaid Tracfone that I only use for emergencies and, yes, I do have that "swiss army knife" app which includes a bubble level. But, with the little levels stuck on the side of the camper I don't have to be getting out that phone and getting it in the same spot that I use to leveling each time - I simply just look at the level that is already there. Sometimes simple is actually better. Bill
    1 point
  10. There are a lot of them, this is the one I use. It's called Bubble Level Galaxy
    1 point
  11. I mentioned this some time ago there is a app for your phone ( Bubble level) it has a bubble level, surface level, gyroscope, plumb line, and a metal detector. Since you alway carry your phone you’ll always have a level for your Ollie, works great for me. Very accurate.
    1 point
  12. You'll find many posts about the Natures Head composting toilet on the forum. This thread will provide the information you're looking for: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/natures-head-composting-toilet-installation-in-an-oliver-big-thread/ I had one installed at the factory last October. Love it. Don
    1 point
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