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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/17/2020 in all areas

  1. This is my home made water filter from common water equipment available at HD, Lowe’s or Amazon. Mossey
    4 points
  2. Catalina State Park just outside of Tucson last month. We’ve made reservations for next January already.
    3 points
  3. Last week we finalized our OLEll order at Oliver. We live in Western NC, so a quick second trip back to Hohenwald made total sense for us. While there I stretched out on the Oliver twin bed again in one of the demos. I am 75 1/2” tall or 6’3 1/2. I don’t have any comfort concerns about sleeping on the 75” twin or 30” wide bed. Full on side sleeper here so all is well for me. You are wise to stretch out on a twin check and be sure. Comfort level is very subjective. What suits one certainly may not suit another. Good luck with your choice!
    3 points
  4. Ouch! Obviously this issue is the reason for that aluminum plate on the door behind the rubber bumper. A number of us have installed a grab bar that attaches to the screen door so that there is something to hold onto in the event of a strong wind - screen door grab bar The only downside to these is making sure that people don't use them for "support" when getting in or out of the camper. Bill
    1 point
  5. Hi. We had the same discussion. Mainiac was kind enough to show us his Ollie. We discussed both floor plan options. Ultimately, we chose the twin plan and did a modification of adding a lagun table mounted on the side. Check out Overland's thread in the Ollie modifications. We can't seat 6 for dinner but we can seat 4 and we have the night stand with basement door. We use the lagun table daily. It can also be easily stored in the closet. When I saw Overland's modification, it provided a good solution for us.
    1 point
  6. Traveling at night is not safe for man nor beast. We were returning from a wonderful trip to California to admire the ocean and red woods and frolic with some friends. Our plan was to take three days to travel from California to Denver. When we passed Green River, WY on the second day, I (under the influence of that dumbing agent called testosterone) decided to drive into the night so we could reach Denver without having to camp in the beautiful Water Pocket Fold area near Green River. At about 9 pm traveling 65 mph on I-70 through Silverthorne, CO (one hour from home) a moose decided to introduce itself to our Grand Cherokee. All I remember is hearing a bang and seeing a moose’s head smash into the passage side door window where Marcia was setting. The Jeep instantly moved about 4 feet sideways, all power shut down (lights, engine, power steering, power brakes) alarms and warnings started flashing and blaring, the side airbags deployed, and Marcia screamed. How I kept the Jeep and trailer from crashing is still a mystery. After making sure Marcia was not hurt too bad, I focused on coasting the Jeep about a mile to the Silverthorne exit, which included a construction zone (two lanes narrowed down to one). Luckily, I had enough momentum to get off the exit and into a Safeway Parking lot. I learned that it is very, very hard to steer and brake the Jeep pulling a 6,000 lbs trailer when the power steering and brakes are no longer working. The long and short of it is that the Jeep was totaled, the Oliver was fine, moose was killed, and Marcia had minor bruising from the airbags. I really feel bad about the moose. I hope this lesson on the stupidity of driving at night during our travels doesn’t fade as time passes.
    1 point
  7. Yikes, I am so glad you both survived that! I worry most about coyotes and deer at dawn and dusk. Except when on National Forest roads, I have never really thought about moose, especially about one crossing an Interstate highway. What do you plan to replace the GC with? Something a little stronger, maybe? How about a roo bar? I completely agree about not towing at night. Even if you saw the moose in the darkness, you might not have been able to slow in time. It is hard enough in broad daylight when you come over a rise and see three large deer standing motionless in your lane. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  8. I respectfully disagree. I doubt if I tow on as much gravel and forest roads as you do, but my trailer stays looking very nice. No damage to the gelcoat, even underneath. No damage to frame or suspension. The wheels stay looking nice. No worries about unexpected construction zones, detours or 30 miles of freshly chip-sealed highways. Deflecting all the rock carnage away from the trailer is they key. I don’t believe you should accept lots of cosmetic damage as inevitable, because it is not. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2504-how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2513-how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2505-how-to-subframe-gravel-guard/ OTH I never tow on wet roads in winter because of the mag chloride on the highways in the West. There is no way to prevent that from destroying the aluminum and stainless parts. I do avoid dragging the trailer down overgrown tracks, you can’t do anything to prevent brush stripes. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  9. Hi we made this modification using Overland's instructions. I finished installing the mounting the bracket last Saturday. We made one slight modification in that I added aluminum backing plates. (overkill). I am having a folding table made out of mahogany by a local craftsman. I hope to install the table top this weekend. I believe this project will really enhance the usability of our trailer. Thanks Overland you came up with a terrific idea and execution.
    1 point
  10. There are also some cabins within the campground mixed among the RV slots. Save a lot of driving up and down the hill.
    1 point
  11. Yep - as far as I'm concerned Bruce and Cheryl get the credit for this one. I'm not sure just how they came upon these products from Duragloss other than the Duragloss Company is located in North Carolina. I'm also not sure how they came up with the detailer/liquid wax combination, but I do know that it really works on all surfaces (yes, that includes the mirrored surfaces) inside the Oliver. A light spray, wipe with a micro-fiber cloth, flip the cloth over and wipe again and you're done without streaks and/or haze- its so easy.
    1 point
  12. I think that the most recommended polish here is Duragloss, which I can personally attest to, but also many owners have had good success with other products like 3M marine wax, Maguires, etc. Some people really like Rejex, but I personally didn't care for it. Some searching will probably provide you with a handful of threads on the topic. Many of us use a mixture of 4 parts Duragloss 923 and 1 part Duragloss 952 in a spray bottle for cleaning the interior and as a touch up spray on the exterior, cleaning off bugs and such. I don't know who first came up with that mixture, but it really makes the interior shine. On the exterior, I think waxing twice a year is the typical recommendation, adjusting for use, climate and storage conditions. I don't know if I remember a discussion here on which type of pads to use.
    1 point
  13. I went to the rally last May and did not own an Oliver. I had a great time and met many very nice people. I now own hull 267 and plan on attending the rally next May. Talk about community, I bought my towing vehicle from Ken (in Fleming Island, Florida) and Steve and Tali (in Tupelo, Mississippi) installed the slide in it for me!
    1 point
  14. Denise - I'd go as far o say that it would be a mistake to not attend the Owner's Rally. And, we'd love to have you join us. Besides getting a good look you will also get to see what owners have done to this great camper. From modifications to decorations you will see all kinds of things. These things will help you get your own creative juices flowing and help you with the design of your very own Ollie. Virtually all owners are more than willing to show you their camper - just ask and bring your camera. Hope to see you there! Bill
    1 point
  15. I made this because the Owners Manual towing and camping lists are simply lame. This one is set up like an aircraft preflight checklist. Feel free to edit and change as needed, some items may not apply or you may just want to do it differently. Mine is laminated and posted inside the closet door: Click the attachment at the bottom to download the Word file. John Davies Spokane WA OLIVER-TRAILER-CHECKLIST-–.docx
    1 point
  16. Yes, the pop-up was originally used to prevent the dreaded grey tank back splash. But, it didn't actually work all that well so the manual shut off valve was added. Then the "power" switch was added as an option. Around the same time as the power switch, the pop-up drain was discontinued. As Overland says - the pop-up drain should not drain slowly (of course assuming that you have it in the up position when trying to drain the shower pan with the manual or power valve also in the open position). Bill
    1 point
  17. I used the 3M Scotch guard. Bought it in bulk. Its suppose to not yellow and be easier to apply. Since I have not use anything else I can not verify that.
    1 point
  18. Whatever the posted maximum trailer towing speed. The tires are good for any legal and sane speeds. I personally would keep it at 65, but that is for fuel consumption more than safety. I certainly would never exceed 70. I cringe when I see big diesel pickups flying down the freeway at 80+ mph with a trailer in tow. It is very risky. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
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