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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/30/2020 in all areas

  1. Ollies are super low maintenance, this is at the far other end of the spectrum. https://spokane.craigslist.org/tro/d/coeur-alene-trailer/7101004815.html How would you like to wash that, and try to get off mold or moss....? Or keep it even vaguely waterproof? John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  2. This may or may not relate..... https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6/dometic-furnace-will-not-operate-at-high-altitude-61353.html They reference a high altitude conversion kit .... http://www.upgnet.com/pdffileredirect/035-14461-000-c-0404.pdf This comment is important... "Altitude Considerations Some owners have experienced problems with furnace operations at high altitude, where the furnace works correctly at lower altitudes. Propane suppliers in low altitude areas (less than 1,000 feet above sea level) may mix additives into the propane. While this can provide improved operation at lower altitudes, at higher altitudes (greater than 5,000 feet above sea level), it can lead to furnace failure, including intermittent lockouts and other symptoms. If planning a cold weather trip to a location greater than 5,000 feet above sea level, filling tanks after arrival may provide for more reliable operation of the furnace." Step one IMHO would be use your bbq grill tank, or borrow a tank that was filled locally, and try it. If that works, take your tanks to a local supplier and get them refilled with a normal mix. Then if your system operates, see if Oliver will refund your expense. And ask if they get their new tanks already full, or do they have a big supply tank at the factory that they use. I hate rv propane appliances with great passion. NO WAY should a new owner have to go through this. Good luck, and please keep us posted. John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  3. I live in Minnesota and it does everything I’d like it to do around here. Twice I’ve taken the rig up and over the I70 pass west of Denver on trips out west. I had to downshift hard both going up and down. The motor spun fast and the brakes got hot, but it was all fine. The second experience was better than the first because I knew what to expect and had faith in the LC. Mine also has 33” tires and airbags. Though an E2 is still under the max bumper weight, I think it squats too much without airbags. Realistically I tow the E2 10% of the time and the other 90% of the time my ‘13 Land Cruiser is a daily driver or solo bird hunting rig. It always does 95-100% of what I ask it to do, regardless of the terrain. The last five percent it’d probably do, but I’m cautious about that last fraction when I’m by myself 10 miles down a two track logging road without a cell signal. So I turn around. Our Land Cruiser is all pinstriped up from the brush and driving narrow unimproved roads. I also need to pull both the bumpers and pop out two of the corners from dragging them in a ditch this past fall. I use the vehicle quite a bit for it’s intended use and am quite happy with it. Not happy enough to pay full retail, but I bought ours used. I’d probably buy another used one if this one was in an accident and was totaled, but it’d take me awhile to find the right one at the right price again. Other than three sets of tires (all season, all terrain, and snow) and rock sliders, mine is stock. Tundras and Sequoias have the same sized engine too. Several on the board are happy towing with newer Tundras. The Oliver brochure used to show towing with a Sequoia. And one early magazine article showed towing an E2 with a Tacoma, which is just silly. I also have a 1st gen Tundra and wouldn’t consider towing the Oliver with it as is. Too softly sprung and the shocks are shot. HTH, Ken
    2 points
  4. The windows on the door look like a nice feature. Really lets the outdoors come into view. Mike
    1 point
  5. Picked up our Elite (Hull 412) on March 18. The trip back to Vermont, 1,200 miles, was good. I did not get an Anderson anti-sway hitch and the Oliver towed perfectly. Waiting for spring to fully kick in here in the north country before our first trip.
    1 point
  6. I don't know. Southern comfort makes custom mattresses for many trailers, if Oliver doesn't offer one. One of our members, Hardrock/Coy, had Southern Comfort fabricate a split mattress, 1/3, 2/3, to provide easier access to components beneath the benches. If I were ever to consider a mattress, that's what I would order. A full size mattress is really bulky to move around in a small space. Sherry
    1 point
  7. Sherry makes a good point here. Even though we have the LEII, we maximize our outside time. Most cooking is outside, we sit outside and eat outside (weather permitting). We recently bought a Clam shelter and found it to be a great addition on our last trip. It’s like having a large living room and is useable even in rain/cold weather. Mike
    1 point
  8. I was also displeased with the documentation provided on Oliver University for the equipment on my Oliver. I took pictures of the identifying information or data plates on each piece of equipment and then downloaded and printed the specific manuals for the model number and, if applicable, the serial number range, for the equipment onboard my trailer. You can often find installation and service manuals also, which will provide more information than is available in owner’s or user’s manuals alone.
    1 point
  9. Back in the day, Airstream sold some pretty cool wooden "Legomatic" folding chairs for their trailers. I still see them once in awhile on ebay, etsy, and some mid century resale sites. They would probably fit in that aisle, as they have a fairly narrow seat and footprint. They fold flat to something like 18 x 6 x 16. I use mine as extra chairs when we have a big group for dinner at home. Never tried it in the trailer. Mine are still rocking that 60s gold marble look vinyl seat upholstery. 😄
    1 point
  10. We have an older LE I, with the firm cushions. We used a "down alternative" thick topper for 8 or 9 years, and changed up to a 1.5 inch memory foam topper a few seasons ago. Great sleeping with the firm support, plus memory foam. If I ever have to replace the cushions, I'll probably do what I did with the boat cushions. They're three or four inches of firm foam, with a one or one and a half inch layer of memory foam glued to the top. Best of both worlds. No topper, comfortable seating, and comfortable sleeping as well. Sherry
    1 point
  11. I hate to ass/u/me anything regarding someone's abilities in electrical trouble shooting. It is very good you are asking questions and trying to fix things yourself. This being said, I've added a trusted source of educational material to my post above. I suspect the following and of course without knowing your specific year/model it is tough to troubleshoot. Older units usually require more checking/maintaining: 1. As stated previously, a bad GFCI. Change it out as suggested. Pushing the button is one test...under load is your problem. Most GFCI found today are garbage and it is a hit or miss on replacements. 2. Improper resetting of circuit breakers or bad circuit breaker (CB). If CBs are tripping, there's a reason and you need to stop and figure out the reasons. Resetting a CB should be a simple deal. Aggressively turn off and then back on. Visually checking is not always the best practice as some CBs look reset but are actually still tripped. 3. Loose connections. Screws on CBs can and will loosen from vibration and the constant flow of electrons. Wire nuts are notorious for loosening with age and vibrations due to electron flow. Checking them is easy, IF you have the tools and knowledge. Digging around inside the innards of the electrical boxes and various connections can be hazardous to your health, including death, if you are not trained or un-skilled in the task. Loose connection result in heat and higher resistance. Both are bad and add to the electrical gremlins you seek. 4. Look on the label of the heater and look for the wattage or amps. Post the info here. If it is over 1500w, this is likely the problem. The CBs and wiring in your house likely more robust than your OTT. Keep in mind the golden rule of 80%. A 20a circuit should only be running loads at 80% of design---16amps maximum. Codes change over the years and this rule may have been tweaked, but it has been a rule of thumb forever. 12ga wire on 20a circuits and 14ga for 15a circuits. Finally, if you feel unable to further troubleshoot this, call a licensed electrician. A RV tech should be able to handle the job as well but good luck finding a qualified one. My suggestion...call a pro who can put eyes on target and get your OTT back to operational health. Mark, amateur sparky.
    1 point
  12. Mattnan, I really like how this turned out. Very nice, it totally compliments your Ollie, great job! Necessity is the mother of invention. -David
    1 point
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