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Here’s the Ike Gauntlet run for the Defender. The main drawbacks seem to be the lack of a tow haul mode for the transmission and no factory brake controller. Pros are the handling, power, and self leveling suspension. All together they rate it highly. It looks like it would be a good fit for an Elite II.

I purchased three of the Anderson Jack Blocks thinking the reduced time (jack travels much less), reduces stress on the jack ( not extended so far, better for resisting side loads) and clean off with a rinse when used on dirt. So they work as advertised but I have discovered a basic weakness of the product when used on anything other than concrete. See the pictures. When used as sold the bucket goes flange side/hollow side down. The issue is all the weight is on the flange portion that calculates roughly 28 square inches. So given say a say “650” lb tongue weight that equates to 23 PSI. The result is the flange settles into both dirt and asphalt. By comparison a 2x12 board cut square 11.25x11.25 is 127.6 square inches and 5.14 PSI with the same load. I may try them upside down but they will collect some rain water. Bottom line I need to put a flat surface of lumber or other plastic block to prevent the bucket from sinking in. At the last campsite we were at the settled in about 1/2 in per day. I store the Ollie at a new RV storage yard and the owner wasn’t too pleased with the rings I left in his asphalt.

Can you do it long distance? We could make an app.

It's been discussed several times before, but to my knowledge, no one has followed through with anything. I removed my black tank and use the space for storage, if that counts. I'm certain that something is possible, but only with a lot of work and lowered expectations. And I think that combination, combined with plentiful, inexpensive, and much simpler solutions for storing extra water elsewhere, is why no one ever follows up. Specifically to what you're thinking - I certainly wouldn't want to use the black tank for both fresh and grey water - I don't think you can sanitize it nearly as thoroughly as you'd need. I do think that you could fairly simply transfer fresh water from the black tank to the fresh, but you'd have to remove the drain connection between the black and grey tanks to prevent contamination, and then remove the check valve on the cleanout port so that you could use to it both fill and empty the tank. Perhaps replace it with a manual valve. And you'd have to add an overflow of some sort. But if you did all that, then you could just simply run hose from there to the boondocking port and pump the water in. But, I think that's a lot of trouble when compared to a couple of $15 plastic jugs in the bed of your truck.

People do get set in their ways when they get that old. 👴🏻

Their website now lists the max tongue weight as 771 lbs.

Better buy two so you have a spare when the other is in the shop... 😉 I'll stick with my under powered and under featured Tundra, thanks.

According to this article, and also the Norcold manual, six degrees front to back and three degrees side to side are the limits. I think those angles are relative to the unit as opposed to the trailer. So a little rearward or forward tilt shouldn’t be a problem but don’t overdo it.

I’m excited for you!

Maybe there's an emoji for that!

I’m sure this is a silly question, but did you twist the screw cap counter clockwise before pushing the collet towards the fitting and then pulling the pipe as the instructions on the package indicate. Mossey

No matter what you pick, I'm really glad you're planning to take your son camping. The gift of the great outdoors is one of the best we can give our kids. And starting young is best. Are you sure granny and auntie don't want to tent camp? I'm not so much opposed to tenting anymore, as I am opposed to sleeping on the ground. A set of discobed cots that can be used as cots, a sofa, or later, for your son and a pal, as bunks, could make tenting a lot more enjoyable. Especially with an Ollie as Basecamp, with kitchen, fridge, and bathroom right next door. My cousins in Norway have taken a family camping trip each summer in a big family tent. Room for Mom and Dad (my age), adult son, adult daughter and husband and two grandchildren. A few years ago, my cousin and husband bought a little camper, and kids and grandkids use the big tent. The multi generation experience is wonderful, and easier with the trailer base. Another thought is a van as a tow vehicle for the smaller elite, that could provide comfy sleeping for two. We camped our way around Iceland a few years ago in a VW Beach. Essentially, a bed on wheels, but it could seat five with the bed folded up. Sherry

TV: folded up the light just projects down on the curb side area. Zamp: it does turn off with the sun - but sometimes the sun is out while we want to sleep. Yay for northern latitudes Stereo: even when it shows time it is a little bright for my taste - but still nice to have the time. USB - We have covers, but also use the ports to charge while sleeping. WiFi/Cell: both have lights when on. Up front switches: Yes, there are also switches in the back - between the kitchen upper cabinet and the curbside bed cabinet, but none of them are lit when we sleep (kitchen/cabinet/rear side lights are the one with status lights). The truma is also there in ours, and it has a status light (that we also put the lightdim material on). With all the bright-white, shiny surfaces, any light makes things much brighter than if we had a dingy wood interior. Our fridge (norcold) has a display, but it's misaligned with the window just enough that not much light comes out. I like the dimming stickers because I can still see the displays/indicators, but they are dim enough to not illuminate the space. So I can see the time on the stereo/microwave or the blinks on the Truma if it's unhappy. Also can tell the awnings have power at a quick glance.

Every electric awning we've had on deliveries could open partially. And was adjustable for slant. That said, I'd prefer a manual awning. No power draw. For us

While it may be possible to manually retract the awning in an emergency, I believe that extension and retraction of the Girard awning is intended to be done electronically with the remote. Although Oliver or those of you with electronic awnings might still convince me that the electronic awnings are better, I think my current preference would be a simpler, manual awning with side support arms. Seems like it would be more stable in wind, could be set at more of a tilt to shed rain better (to provide cover for a least one partially open window in the rain), etc.

If your bar material is aircraft grade, then I fear it is too strong. What are the outside dimensions and alloy type? You really need to design the support arms so that they are weaker than the subframe they are bolted to. The angle is steel, but it is a mild alloy and not THAT strong. If there is a big hit on the arm due to road debris like a 2x4 or a blown tire carcass, the arm should fold back gracefully, not bend your sub-frame attach point. That might cost some $$$ to repair. Replacing just a damaged flap arm would be relatively minor. The material I used is 1 x 2 x 1/8” wall. It is pretty darned rigid due to its shape and the tempered 6061-T6 material, so I added a line of weakening holes so it will bend when hit hard. The following pic is from my Stone Stomper thread. I TRIED to add it to the first post of this mudflap thread but I am unable to edit that post. The line of holes does not show in the other pics because they are drilled on the top, bottom and front face only. This leaves a “hinge” in the back to allow the metal to fold. The material will tear apart at the holes. I suggest that you drill some small holes in the arm inboard of the flap to remove enough metal to make a failure point. Seriously. Please do it. Be safe. John Davies Spokane WA