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  1. If you stop near White Sands you might want to check out Aguirre Spring BLM. $7, no hookups, clean vault toilets, spectacular views. You drive up the side of the mountain to the campground. You can see White Sands NP in the distance. Highly recommend.
    3 points
  2. This is the most overlooked issue with sleeping in your vehicle. Sleeping in or on your vehicle is great for ‘true’ over landing, where you go from A to B to C each night. That’s ideal in Africa or Australia where there’s great distances between destinations. But the US is so dense with things to see and do that you tend to spend two to four nights at any one location, sometimes more, taking day trips from camp. We started off our search for a better way to camp thinking that a rooftop tent was the way to go. Then we camped at Bryce for three days and watched A poor couple across from us unpack and repack their campsite every day for three days. By the third day they looked miserable and that was when we decided that a trailer was the better way. But of course we still have great memories of car camping - packing up our Saab late on a Thursday night so that we could head out right after work on Friday to get to a campsite around 10pm. Then unrolling our sleeping bags in the back and trying not to either suffocate or let too many mosquitos in through the night. That was the best.
    3 points
  3. Hi Overland, I saw the many questions you have. As soon as possible I'll provide answers. We are very busy right now so please give me some time. Larry
    2 points
  4. That's a beautiful looking spot. On the other side of White Sands is Cloudcroft. There's a USFS campground there as well as dispersed camping throughout the forrest. I suspect the USFS campground will be closed that time of year though.
    2 points
  5. I never felt the want for an Class A, B, or C motor home, freedom of use with a TT just works better for us. Motor Homes I feel tend to cost more to own and operate, I'm sure this is debatable for many, but that's just how I see it. The freedom of having my tow vehicle to travel from the camping site to where ever we wish to go I feel is a big plus, yes you can tow a vehicle behind your motor home, but the additional cost of fuel, etc. I also look at resale on everything I own and a motor home is probably one of the worst investments you can make in life, I seen many friends just throw away money by the ten's of thousand and wish they had made a different decision up front. The fiberglass TT market has always been a good one, or it is at the present time, I wish I had a parking lot full of Casita's to sell, we sold our two years old for $200 less then we paid for it, I also feel the Oliver will have great resale value if the time comes we want to sell it. All being said, for me it's not so much the money, but just making good value decisions and return on your money, plus getting a great product to enjoy. trainman
    2 points
  6. The advantage to camping is you can pick and choose what you enjoy . . . . . RV parks with amenities and social interaction or wilderness, out in nature camping, with few amenities but solitude and serenity. . . . . . . . Interstates or scenic backroads . . . . . . . The choice is yours. If you plan to " take a left in sept" , don't miss out on Oregon 😎
    2 points
  7. So renting a class B this summer confirmed my decision to go with a TT. It was very easy to drive, park and hookup. It was so loud in the van while driving due to items shaking. I also didn’t care for layout limitations with cab in the living area. Personal preference but renting helped to solidify direction I wanted to go. Good luck.
    2 points
  8. Lock doors? Yes, I guess we do sometimes, depends on where we are, not all ways. We have found one Interstate looks and sounds pretty much like all the others, we avoid them. In these small towns we can usually find a parking lot that we fit in. Farmers markets and small grocery stores provide all our needs. We did find you can get some of the best meals at the local diner. You know the diner, the one with the sparkly purple vinyl seats that has duct tape on it. The biscuits are the best. And the locals you talk to can tell you about some of the prettiest places to visit or stay. Bugs? Really haven't had too much problems except maybe blood sucking, dive bombing salt water mosquitoes in the early spring...
    2 points
  9. Cost is a big difference . . . . the cost to license and insure a motor home or camper van is much higher than for a trailer, assuming your tow vehicle is also used for other than towing. Our LTV cost almost almost $1,000 to license and $1,200 to insure - per year. Add to that the added cost of service and maintenance, additional tires and unexpected chassis issues. We liked the idea of being able to drive off, in a small motor home, as if it were a car. But you still have to secure all your onboard gear and pretty much pack up before leaving your campsite. Camping in one place for several days wasn't too inconvenient, since it is small enough to drive around, but wanting another way to explore, other than on bike or foot has turned us back to a small travel trailer. We are going to miss our van, but will love the Oliver.
    1 point
  10. I have a scheduled delivery of an LE II in late December. I'm still sorting out some of the options for our unit, and I want to thank many of the current owners who have contributed generously here on this forum, which is a great info resource. We currently have a 2004 Ford E250 with a (no-bath, fairly simple) camper van which has been great for use in nice weather in all seasons and for boondocking in nicer weather, but the Ollie will open up a variety of new options such as off-season coastal camping here in the PNW (when the standard sized van with a raised top can start to feel VERY small for two plus dog!), spending a few nights in local ski area parking lots with the ability to clean up each evening, and so forth. After considering a variety of RV options, I settled on this as the one that best met a mix of aesthetic and practical goals for four season camping. We will initially use the Ford (which has the 5.4L V8) as our TV, but I suspect that we will eventually buy a worthy truck or beefy SUV for the job, as the Ford won't be optimal for either winter or mountain towing. From what I've seen I have no doubt a few current forum members will be more than happy to tell me what will and won't work for the job ;-).
    1 point
  11. The very best feature of our EII is the ability to stay just about anywhere. Boondocking isn't for everyone, but it sure does work for us - some of the coolest spots to spend the day/night are not in a "park". In the many, many, years we have been "camping", I can't think of a time people were offensive or not friendly. Sure, some places just had too many people for our tastes, but generally the experiences have been great. I'll admit, these days I don't go unarmed, not because I'm wary, or worried, but it is not prudent to believe there will be "authorities" near by to deal with a situation. I have insurance on the Ollie, the house, and the auto's, and , in the back ground, out of sight, on us. Bugs, snakes, and animals in general - well that is called nature. We try to control the bugs access to us, we don't worry about snakes - they don't worry about us, and as for the other of natures creations, well its a pleasure to see them. The weather- well - heck, it is the weather. Best thing I can tell you - don't leave your awning out. If in doubt, roll it in. Otherwise, it is the weather. There is a lot of America out there, not seen on a TV, or monitor, or found on a computer screen, or an app, and certainly must be experienced to be fully appreciated. To do a good RV trip, to experience reality, one must jump in with both feet, get a little dirty, squash a bug or two, swat at flying bandits, run from a crawly slinky creature, and let go - just enjoy the chance of it all. It works for us, and our Ollie makes it all a little more enjoyable. When you have a full fuel tank, and plenty of provisions, always take the road less traveled, go where you haven't been. It is all simply my opinion, yours may vary. Enjoy your freedom. RB
    1 point
  12. I don't think bugeyedriver posted any photos, but here's a link to the discussion. I've seen his trailer. The color match was excellent, coating looked really nice .
    1 point
  13. You are right about the noise . . . . . Compared to riding in our pickup, our LTV van is much noisier. Also, the effects of heat/cold transfer through the windshield to the living space is substantial in a camper van/motor home.
    1 point
  14. Welcome to the crew. we are in Everett, Hull 505 Galway Girl. You might find our blog documenting our trip to pickup the trailer of some use in travel plans. Here’s the link: https://4-ever-hitched.com Craig & Rose
    1 point
  15. I agree. Renting is the best place to start for new to RVing. Suggested this to my older brother of course, I didn’t know what I was talking about. After 160 k on a class B waiting 10 months for it to be built. After three months In the Rv decided Rving was not for him and his wife. He lost big money on resale. Try before you buy, it will save you Headaches and money.
    1 point
  16. So much depends on your travel style and what sort of comforts you will be happy with. I have a 72 year old friend who spends a few months' worth of nights each year sleeping in the back of his Toyota Tercel Wagon from the '80s, most often in wintertime near ski areas or backcountry ski tours (in case you've ever seen the documentary "Dirtbag" about climbing legend Fred Beckey, it's worth mentioning that this friend of mine has climbed with Fred more than once and is in Fred's direction in terms of expenses and creature comforts or lack thereof 🙂 ). We have done a lot of camping in our Class B van - a standard length Ford E250 with things like furnace, fridge, inverter and microwave, but no bathroom. We've been pretty happy with it but as I've eased out of salaried life it has started to feel a bit small for the two of us on extended trips, particularly when the weather turns wet and we spend more time inside the van. I think it will continue to be my go-to choice when I do solo photography safaris to places like Utah for a few weeks, but we've decided to get an Ollie for many of the trips my wife and I will take together. As a former colleague put it, "each tool is best for something and worst for something else." The van is very maneuverable (including the ability to be parallel parked in any decent length city parking space), we can leave the dog in it with the vent fan running on most days while parked for errands etc., and it's nice to be able to transition from driving to hanging in the living space w/o needing to get out of the vehicle. But it can feel quite small at times, it is at times a bit of an annoyance to shift from sleeping to driving modes when we will be returning to the same site that evening - to the point where we sometimes defer errands or driving outings in favor of on foot or on bike explorations nearer to camp. We have strategies for dealing with the lack of a bathroom when boondocking or staying at park campgrounds that have no showers (including a "sun shower" unit etc.) that work OK enough in many situations particularly in warmer more pleasant weather. But I am looking forward to being able to use the Ollie wet bath, to have a "home base" that one or both of us can drive away from (we don't always want to leave camp at the same time!) and to just have a bit more space for some of our outings. For now I expect to keep the old camper van as it has more utility value to me than it has resale value given its age and mileage ( it still running and working quite well).
    1 point
  17. Our daughter, who had an RV before we did, told me that people in campgrounds are “salt of the earth people”, very friendly. We’ve found that friendliness is everywhere we’ve camped, whether it’s in a formal campground or out boondocking in the middle of nowhere. Small towns are great. We also try to avoid areas with bugs, just returned from Colorado and Northern Arizona and had few bugs, low humidity and cool nights. We do lock doors just because we lock doors. Our Oliver is truly a second home, it just travels where we do. Mike
    1 point
  18. Great data don’t see the 2.8 duramax. I pickup my LEII in a month. Got 30 driving new when I picked it up in Indiana and drove to Houston. Tows 7700 so I’ll see what it gets.
    1 point
  19. That's it. The bolt may be installed the other way however, with the nut out, making it easier to inspect.
    1 point
  20. 2009 Ford E350 Van with 5.4 gas V8. Towing high 11's to high 12's at 62mph. Solo 16 to 17mpg at 65 to 70mph.
    1 point
  21. Hello Mike, A MPPT controller should be used with any PV solar modules (aka solar panel, a misnomer) that has a Vmp (the operating voltage) of 17.0V or higher. It does not matter what kind of battery you have. A PWM controller is like a switch: it turns on and off and will only pass the rated current of your module. This causes you to loose potential power which I’ll explain later. A MPPT controller can capture all the power that a module can produce by using DC converters. Consider this example: 100W PV module rated at 20 Vmp and 5 Imp (the output current). According to Ohms law, Volts x Amps = Watts. So, for our above module, here's the math: 20V x 5A = 100W. Also know that a solar module is a constant current device. In our example, you will get about 5 Amps from 0 to 20 volts. A PWM controller will directly connect the PV module to the battery. A battery is a load and will pull down the voltage of the module. If the battery is 13 volts, here's the math: 13V X 5A = 65W. You only produce 65 Watts of power because the amperage is at 5A and the voltage is pulled down to 13V. If you use MPPT controller with the same module, you can produce nearly 100 Watts of power. The difference is that the MPPT controller converts the 20 Vmp down to 13V and raises the current at the same time. By this conversion process, you can raise current because the power (100W) is still available. You now get about 7.5 Amps from your 100W solar module. Here’s the math: 13 x 7.5 = 100W (you loose some in the conversion process) There are other factors affecting performance but using MPPT for high voltage modules is important. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  22. “Somewhere Oliver and the Rainbow”. Yes, bluebirds do fly here...lots of them. Floyd, Va. Chantilly CG. We booked another week in October. We reeeeallly like it here.
    1 point
  23. Set aside the aluminum vs fiberglass. The most destructive source of any Rv is water. It can delaminate rot wood corrode metal and short out electrical systems. The airstream would do all that, I know from experience. 2017 30’ airstreams serenity. I had a leak in the bathroom which was in the walls. The plywood floors got soaked. The bat insulation in the walls were saturated with water. Because the floors were wet it delaminated the flooring. After everything dried out, then noticed the frame starting to rust. Should I continue? And not to mention carrying a pop rivet gun to replace rivets popping out. Keep comparing the apples to oranges. The Oliver wins.
    1 point
  24. Oliver is using the heated batteries. I have asked because winter camping is important to my wife and I. I have made a note to double check that when we pick up our Ollie in Nov.
    1 point
  25. I do have some specific questions about your batteries - 1. RE @NCeagle's concerns about prolonged charging at 100%, I know that Battleborn batteries have a higher capacity than labeled and that their BMS is supposed to keep their batteries within a range that will prolong their life. Do you use a similar tactic or should owners be cautious about charging your batteries to 100% or depleting them to 0? I did notice that you recommend that owners deplete their batteries to 50% if being stored for longer than 30 days, whereas Battleborn recommends charging them to 100% before disconnecting. 2. Is your BMS software upgradable via your app? Are there any user controllable parameters for your BMS? Does the software provide any insight into battery health, cell balance, etc., or does it just give info on state of charge? 3. For those of us with programmable chargers, what do you recommend for absorption and float voltages, charge current, absorption time, etc.? 4. I've read that Battleborn says that the main difference between their batteries and yours is that they use a cylindrical cell vs a prismatic one. I haven't a clue about the two, but Battleborn reportedly says that in their tests the cylindrical cells lasted longer and were easier to keep balanced. What is your response to that? 5. The simplicity of these types of batteries with a built in BMS is a sword with two edges; i.e., there's more to go wrong and if it does, then you've lost the whole battery. You guys have doubled down on that by including bluetooth and heating inside the box and I'm wondering are either of those, or your BMS repairable, or worth the trouble to get repaired even if it is?
    1 point
  26. The best indication - Airstream owners that have switched or long to do so..... There are salient good features of both TT, as for exterior durability - here is no comparison. One hail storm and .... Oliver for the win Interior layout - the AS is wider, the Ollie is a little narrower, floor plans - 2 with Oliver, AS I'm not sure. Push Components and other options - Olive wins hands down. Chassis, clearance, and towability - Oliver by a large margin Warranty - factory support - Oliver is world class in this segment. Cost factors, apples to apples - Oliver is the value leader. Cool factor - depends on your values...... Oliver is a great TT.
    1 point
  27. I don't have definitive answers for you, but just want to say, we were in the same position a couple of months ago when we decided to sell our 25 ft class B+ Leisure Travel Van. We decided not having a way to explore in remote areas was to restrictive and we didn't want to tow another vehicle. Also the additional cost to maintain and insure a vehicle that sits most of the winter because it isn't 4-season. Well, enough of that, here's why we decided on Oliver. Having owned a couple of wood framed, entry level trailers, we know how poorly they are built,besides being a big step down from a high quality motor home. So, Airstream was the first thing we looked at. Found out, real quick, AS just isn't made as well as we thought. Yes, we liked the twin floor plan. But after hearing tales of cabinets falling off the wall, high maintenance exteriors, and the fact that they are mass produced for a market that demands luxury over quality, we decided to look at other options. Durability and function are more important to us than all the "bells and whistles" and "like home amenities". Not sure how we stumbled onto Oliver, but once we watched the factory tour video, we were very interested. After contacting Oliver, we were set up to meet an Oliver in person, since we are 26 hours away from Hohenwald, TN. I suggest you do this before deciding between the two. A nice couple from Central Oregon met us and welcomed us, amid the pandemic, to tour their Oliver twin bed. We had pretty much decided it was a good choice, but wanted to make sure it "fit" our needs. Ironically, this couple had considered an Airstream. When they went to the dealership, with the intent to purchase, low and behold, as the salesperson was showing the trailer, the oven fell out of the wall! Not my idea of a $100,000 RV and certainly shows how little the dealers care about their product. Oliver cares. I also like that with Oliver, you have a choice on a lot of features that other brands install as standard, whether you want them or not. Less motorized accessories to maintain/malfunction. We don't watch TV while traveling . . . . . so we don't have to have the big TV antenna on the roof. Our microwave gets used very little when we camp . . . . . we can delete the microwave and have a large storage cabinet instead. Don't like swirly graphics? . . . . . you can order your Oliver in a plain white wrapper, or choose the color(s) for their more subdued swooshes. And the integrated fiberglass cabinets are not going to fall off the wall! Sure, there is always going to be something that needs attention, but buying directly from the manufacturer problems are well taken care of. Oliver has pride in their product that the mass produced market cannot match. My suggestion for you would be to contact an Oliver agent. He or she will be more that happy to answer your questions. If you are anywhere near the plant, schedule a tour.
    1 point
  28. Looks like most get around the same fuel mileage regardless of what engine you have in your 1/2 ton full size pickup, or for me 12-13 about it. Now for you diesel owners looks like you get a little more mpg, but the extra cost of diesel fuel and the truck itself never worked out for me. My 2019 Ram gets right at 24-25 mpg at 70 mph without the trailer, so what can I say. Yes Susan, I know you pull other trailers and that's why you have a 1 ton diesel pickup, I would to if that was my situation. All being said, I buy what I like and will do the job, fuel prices don't let me stop buying what I want. Back in the day we pulled our 28 ft. travel trailer with a 454 suburban, it got 8 mpg with the trailer and 8 mpg without the trailer, I could outrun just about anything up Wolf Creek Pass, I loved it. trainman
    1 point
  29. What a wonderful chart! Add info for my 2013 Land Cruiser 5.7 gas with plus 2” tires (raises overall gear ratio) Ollie LE2 6000 lbs estimated. 42 psi in tires and gravel guards add some rolling and aero drag. 10-11 mpg towing 62 mph lots of terrain Pacific NW 12-13 at 62 mph flat and steady (Rare) 9-10 mpg slow hilly backroads 14.5 mpg over-all empty when purchased at 96k (previous owners apparently did not tow) 13.6 mpg over all at 139k (includes 14k towing) Best ever SHORT term empty (70 miles dead flat at 60 mph) was 17.8 mpg. Land Cruisers have always been known as gas hogs, except in Oz where they are 95% diesel and in stock form are a little less inefficient. Thanks for such a great thread. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  30. In 35,000 miles, about 13K towing the Oliver EII, I have a pretty good feel for fuel mileage with my 2018 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 , with Leer cab high cap, while heading west from TN, is usually different than returning home, easterly, ---- grade and speed, city, Interstates, and stop and go all rolled into the averages the GMC is consistent. On big fast highways, averaging 60 to 70 MPH, we get about 14 MPG. (Fully loaded Ollie, full truck (leave the kitchen sink, got everything else) two humans and a dog) I have seen as low as 12, a and as high as 17 - while towing. Non loaded, around the farm home, I see 18 mpg on average. A trip to the big city, I'll see 20 mpg - at 70 mph, just cruising. But that is not the complete story the other expenses are also important - upfront costs are higher with the Duramax, oil changes are more expensive than a gas vehicle, add in fuel filters changes every 10K, and the obvious higher price of diesel, and the total costs are add up - more than a comparably sized gas engine - but not by much. (I do my own filter changes when possible) For our traveling pleasure the total cost per mile is totally offset by the the ride and comfort factor of the GMC - which are very high with my truck. Miles go by, hours pass on the way to where ever, and when we arrive at the end, we are not weary of the journey. That is worth something. Strangest thing is the wide gap we saw in diesel prices this year, usually in the $2.20 to 2.45 range (Not CA - add $2) and a few times below $2, once we paid $1.61. - I used to do a complete assessment of a trips expenses - but anymore is just a tally - doesn't matter- as it has always been in a Gaussian distribution ( Ha - how's that..) So there you have it - a real world sample on one couples TV experiences.
    1 point
  31. Nice charting. You are on the money with 3/4 diesels mine, Chevy falls in that category 13- 16 mpg while towing 21mpg non towing. I just reset my trip indicator. At the end of the trip look at the results of performance and Mileage. There is always a plus or minus, depending on the trip.
    1 point
  32. Thanks for putting that together. I'm sure it will be of help to a lot of people. I can give you mine, which is for the high output 3.5 ecoboost, which Ford is using in the Navigator and Limited F150 as well as the Raptor. I see 10 minimum and 13 max, typically 12-something, towing an LE2. The Raptor is the least aerodynamic of the F150's and has big all terrain tires that don't help either, so given that, I've been satisfied with the mileage I've seen. Just remember with your research that there are certain numbers that men always exaggerate, MPG being one of them. 😛
    1 point
  33. Well, that was a labor of love. Sherry Since we have an original shorty, we can't help with the stats. But, I thank you.
    1 point
  34. Depending on how fussy you are about making mods, and how handy you are with a few tools - Modding the twin set up is easy to do, esp. for a flex set-up. I have - and although we don't do very often (I need to make a few improvement's, but I'm cheap) it works well and does simulate the Queen for the most part, although the nightstand is still in place, but we sleep heads towards the front, so it doesn't really matter. As for finding a used one - good luck- it may take a little time.
    1 point
  35. I am still in limbo over a switch, but I did end up ordering a complete backup camera placard, LED and switch from Oliver, I just haven't received it yet. I plan to post part two of this thread when I get it installed. I hot wire the system for each tow.... Here are some screen shots. Resolution is barely adequate and response time is laggy, but it is entirely usable in decent light. At night it is going to be pretty much useless. I wish Garmin had spent more development on a better camera. My 6 inch RV660 LMT display is plenty sharp.... the camera resolution is poor. All pics are in full sunny daylight. This is my garage door about two feet away: The side lines are the lane lines, showing where the tires will go, and the horizontal lines are distance markers, the nearest is 2 ft and the furthest is 6 ft from the back of the rear bumper. More to come later. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  36. For mounting the transmitter, I was originally going to run dc power and the Garmin antenna coax to the front closet, but in looking at the limited access at the entry door I decided it was going to be too much of a pain, so I settled on the small wiring compartment immediately aft of the head, street side... It has easy access from the 6 inch round port in the head cabinet. Running the coax is easy since there is a continuous wiring "trough" all the way along the left side. The only tricky part is behind the pantry insert. Access to the inside of the rear wall of the hull is easy once you lower the two side panels and pull down the insulation. Revealed to you is more crappy wiring ;( There is 6 inches of free hull area below the LED riding lights and lots of room to maneuver if you stand on a small step stool. I laid everything out carefully using a bubble to align with the trailer cross belt line, and positioned the bracket on a relatively flat part near the bottom of the available space. This will get the camera up high where it can get a good panoramic view and also be up and out of the way. The camera and mount are delicate, but in the mount I fabricated they are well protected from a wayward branch or hail stone. I ordered the 50 extension cable that is optional, since the camera pigtail is only about three feet long. I wish they had shorter ones available. The material is 6064 T6 (tempered aircraft grade) aluminum, from a 2x2x10 inch a scrap I picked up at the local metal supplier for $4. I wanted a full shield on top to divert rain and objects, and also a smaller lip on the bottom to protect the underside. I can easily access the camera and adjustment screws from the sides. I added a crescent cutout so that the camera could point down far enough and still be protected. All work was done with a hacksaw, file and hand drill, with finish work on a bench top belt sander. It's very easy material to work with. The camera and bracket can easily be removed from the mount without disturbing that part, in case the camera fails. I used 5 mm steel threaded nutserts and metric Philips panhead screws to hold the steel bracket on, after trimming the bracket ears that are intended to clip over a license plate. I used clear RTV sealant on the bracket and screws for easy removal. Since the nutserts flare out behind the aluminum plate, I had to drill larger holes in the fiberglass for clearance. I masked around the area, and with the help of my daughter inside the trailer, I mounted the assembly onto the hull with a thick bed of 3M 4200 adhesive sealant. A word of warning: 4200 is great stuff, but expensive and once opened, you have to use the tube within 24 hours or it will harden in the tube . It always pays to read the instructions: I was going to use isopropyl alcohol to prep the parts, but it specifically says that alcohol will prevent the 4200 from curing! I used MEK, as advised... http://3mmarine.com/3mtm-marine-adhesive-sealant-fast-cure-4200fc-white-3-oz-tube-05260.html More to come, I haven't finished the wiring, and am waiting on a switch panel from Jason. I'll post pics of the inside work and transmitter. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
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