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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/20/2020 in all areas

  1. It's the middle of the night & Fido needs to go out. You want to be able to grab a flashlight without the need to turn on a light. This Command Broom Holder is the answer. Plus, it stays put when rolling down the road. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G1Y42H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-YJJFb4833X8E
    5 points
  2. Set your AC fan to auto and it should work properly.
    3 points
  3. The one thing about negative 40ish (same for farenheit and celcius) is that it's a dry cold. Ha.
    2 points
  4. Just do it, you know they will look very cool. My next set of truck tires will be these, I would not mind adding them to the Ollie, but not for a few more years. https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/cooper-discoverer-at3-xlt I doubt that you will be able to tell any towing difference on paved roads, or on gravel for that matter, but they will be more resistant to rock damage. And cool. John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  5. The best - one by far - is one rated for the load - and with in your cost budget- Other than that - the choices are many. All of your concerns are handled with a modern 3/4 ton truck - diesel are the preferred- but not necessary. Many modern 1/2 ton trucks, SUV's and such are also in the mix. The number one thing I will caution - don't go on the word of a sales person, an internet forum, or the neighbor - consult with the GVWR label on the vehicle you are considering - it is the legal rating of that vehicle. You also will need to consult the owner manual for other spec's. Good hunting.
    2 points
  6. I'm about to buy an extra spare to take on an upcoming trip, and was giving some thought to going with an AT tire. It would be different than the others for now, but I'm pretty sure that I'm going to replace everything else next year. We travel on gravel a lot, and the current tires are showing it, so I'm thinking about ATs more for their toughness than traction. On the other hand, I'm not all that confident with their performance on the highway, especially in the wet. What do you guys think? Will highway performance / safety suffer that much or am I overthinking it? After all, the truck has ATs on it.
    1 point
  7. Hello Everyone, I am looking for the best 1/2 or 3/4 ton short box truck to tow an elite 2. I would rather not invest in the Anderson Hitch, as I already own a really nice adjustable B & W hitch. What type of truck do you own and how does your truck handle pulling the elite 2 up and down steep grades, 6-8% grades? Do you have any issues with trailer sway at interstate speed, during cross winds, or when a semi truck passes you? What type of mileage do you get with your truck when towing and type of engine is in your truck?
    1 point
  8. Yesterdays rain, here at the coast, turned to snow just inland. The ski slopes got a 6" base. This morning that snow is still there. It is only 30 degrees here and the field has a thick coating of frost. Guess it is time for that dreadful task. WINTERIZE! Though the task is easy, the mental end of the season is the hardest part. When should we plan to hook up and pull out? January? February? 3 weeks? 4 weeks? Maybe 5? New places? Or old favorites? Decisions! Decisions!
    1 point
  9. I have the rear floor register fully closed, the center one half closed and the bath register completely removed (wide open hole). Airflow appears to be adequate in front but the temperature is very low. Both the bath and closet are always cold. I keep the bath door wide open, and the bath ceiling vent open but not running the fan unless somebody is showering. Do you have this problem? Should I keep the bath vent closed? Please elaborate. I am trying to figure out if this is simply a poor design, with the heat source so far back in the cabin, or if my particular hull has a build problem. I am researching alternative heat sources for the front, to just help equalize the temperature. Platinum Cat VENTED heater ..... clunky and large, but efficient and safe, can operate with all windows closed: ..... http://www.ventedcatheater.com/heaters Radiant electric mat ..... could maybe be bonded to the inside closet wall? Minimal watts, maybe 150, not very effective. .... https://www.amazon.com/SEAL-Radiant-Heating-Ceramic-Self-adhesive/dp/B07HMNFFH3/ref=asc_df_B07H279CWJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242000691778&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2283158861237346692&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027760&hvtargid=pla-620321963479&th=1 Radiant wall panel, 120 volt AC. Interesting technology, no small sized ones. .... https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/heat-storm-radiant-500-watt-electric-wall-mounted-heater-rvj10005.html Hydronic heating. Impractical to retrofit, $$$$$$. .... https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-reviews/alde-hydronic-heating-system-test-and-review/ In-duct 12 volt air booster fan. Dangerous, may fool sail switch into thinking there is adequate air moving through the burner, when there is not. OTH a really simple and cheap fix. What have I missed? Can we discuss this? I have to admit I am disappointed in the uneven heating in “Mouse”. If I am in the minority, maybe I should open a service ticket. Thanks John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  10. A Spring Maine Rally keeps getting mentioned. So many unknowns at this time. The State is only allowing certain state residents to visit without quarantining, yet somethings may open? How many would be interested? Just Olivers? Just fiberglass units? All who might like to see an Oliver, like maybe day visitors?. How big an area would we need? Full hookups? Near a golf course? Midweek? With all the RV sales, some places are already booked. What else might folks like to do or see? Probably a given? Near Acadia National Park, if only for a day trip. A lobster feed. A "Show and Tell" session?
    1 point
  11. For any new owners looking to purchase carpet runners for the LE2, here are some floor dimensions I couldn't find elsewhere. The floor curves up into the wall so these would be the max dimensions.
    1 point
  12. Awesome photo. That’s the kind of scenery we’re looking forward to. Any one have pics from the North West? Our son attends UW in Seattle. We’re already mapping out our trip from North West Florida to Seattle. Should be epic.
    1 point
  13. My plan is to replace my tires (BF Goodrich) next spring/summer when they go over 5 years. I was also thinking AT’s.
    1 point
  14. I'm not exactly sure why, but General Grabber AT's give a better ride than Michelin LT's all around (including highway speeds) on my truck. I also don't notice any traction problems in the rain. I think it's a great idea to put AT's on the Ollie. 👍 I'll do it once I wear out the LT's.
    1 point
  15. I used to have Ram 2500 Laramie Diesel 4x4 as a work truck. I towed up to 13K-14K lbs. Pretty much the limit of the truck. Great vehicle. The heavy loads gave mpg of 7-8 and lighter loads, say 5K, right around 15 mpg. Unloaded, on flat ground (around Houston) and at 67-68 mph, I could get 27 mpg (2015 vehicle...seems like the last one I had, 2017, did not do quite as well). For the weight of the LEII, the Ram 2500 will have no issue and have more comfort and a better ride than my 2015 Silverado 4x4. Any truck you get, the brake controller is a must.
    1 point
  16. There are many factors to consider for the Escalade besides tow capacity: payload capacity (cargo you may plan to carry in it); transmission suitability for towing; overall construction (is the Escalade built on a pickup chassis or passenger car?) You might look at some GM forums and see what others have to say about towing with the Excalade.
    1 point
  17. I'd refer to the owner's manual. That, or there should be a sticker on the Escalade's hitch somewhere (often the bottom) that lists the maximum tongue weight. If it says 500lbs without weight distribution, then you should use the Andersen.
    1 point
  18. Chill out, your Escalade will be 95% fine for an Elite, I would not even use the Andersen for this setup. Just make sure your truck is in good mechanical condition, all fluids fresh; brakes, tires and shock absorbers in good shape, and go for it. It won’t have the many safety and towing features of a new truck. Just try it out for a season, that will give you the basic towing education, and you can decide if you want to trade it in on a newer tow vehicle. You will need a brake control unit, plus a GM adapter wiring harness, I suggest the Tekonsha Prodigy P3. Other than that it should be fine as is, assuming it is in very good shape. With the Andersen you could safely tow an Elite II, so the smaller trailer should be a piece of cake for this truck. OTH if it is not in good shape AND if it is not economically practical to make it so, trade it in and get something a few years old. It is up to you to decide if you are ready to spend a lot to fix it up. On a nearly twenty year old vehicle, that is a big factor. So, if it is a beater, get rid of it, if it is a gem, keep it. If you don’t know, take it to a good independent shop and ask them to perform a full safety inspection, which will give you a list of all the good and bad things. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  19. This is our "retirement clock" . . . . . . just have to remember to change it!
    1 point
  20. Perfect, except I want one that shows every day as “Saturday “.
    1 point
  21. What gets us through the week. Get up in the morning, go to the head. Get coffee. Lunch time, nap time, supper time. Maybe tv time and then bedtime. Just never know what day it is. This clock helps. Everyone should get one as a retirement gift...
    1 point
  22. Oddly, I didn't know how to change this...thanks.
    1 point
  23. Wait a minute! I thought we all agreed that a Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax was the perfect tow vehicle? Are some of you all “crawfishin’ “ now? Read my post, top of page 2 in this thread:
    1 point
  24. Hmm. An interesting set of reply's to a concern some RVer's seem to rate as a higher issue. I have thought about the remote start, the fact the lights are activated on our truck with the remote, and simply turning on an interior light. One deterrent we have is our canine - not much gets within earshot of our RV that he is not in tune with. He is big enough to get peoples attention. If I make it clear to him - to raise attention - and open the door - most will vacate the area. However- he is not really after much more than a treat..... But - the wolf thing - yeah - would half to keep him on a tight "leash". The comments on firearms - well - lets just say - we're covered there. I have never considered 911 as my first response to a threat, or second, for that matter. I am continually amazed at the mod's Oliver owners contemplate and actually complete. Just great minds it seems. RB
    1 point
  25. I am... 36 more days..
    1 point
  26. Perhaps, but this would be far from a dependable scientific process. FWIW I feel far more comfortable knowing the lines are treated to -50 as oppose to somewhere between 32 degrees and hypothetically 10 degrees.
    1 point
  27. Nicole - Good to have you here and thanks for posting. I believe that you are looking for a 3/4 ton truck. All of the 1/2 ton trucks currently on the market require a weight distribution hitch when towing something like the Oliver Legacy Elite II. I have tried to make my Oliver sway without success and I've never heard of even one instance where any Oliver trailer swayed due to wind, passing semi's or any other circumstance. I happen to own a 2017 Ford 150 and, yes, I do have and use the Andersen. My truck has the 3.5 liter Ecoboost engine with the max trailer towing package. This truck gets in the low 20's mpg while not towing and averages between 12 and 13 mpg while towing. I have towed my Elite II through out the mountain west and have never experience any trouble with any grade under any circumstance. Hope this helps. Bill
    1 point
  28. My wife and I look through here and on the FB page and at least twice a day turn our phone to the other and say “ooh, don’t you wish we were here?” before jumping on some dull conference call or other. Trying not to wish my life away but can’t wait to have the freedom to head for the hills whenever the urge strikes. Thanks for the vicarious thrills. 194 days until May, our Ollie birth month.
    1 point
  29. For those that (1) find battery storage in an Oliver trailer to be too constrained and (2) have sufficient resources to really splurge... https://www.livingvehicle.com/models
    1 point
  30. The screens in the Oliver windows are made with standard fiberglass screening material. Unfortunately, in many places I camp there are very small bugs (no-see-ums) that are small enough to fit through the holes in that screening. As a winter project last year I replaced all screens with a finer mesh screening suitable for keeping virtually all of these bugs at bay. This small bug screening can be purchased at virtually any hardware store and is fairly inexpensive. In addition, I purchased two different bug zappers that will get anything that flies through the door as I come and go. Both can be used as a bug zapper alone or be combined with their internal regular light function. Even though the NEBO was more expensive (about $25 versus the $15 I paid for the U-Lantern) I tend to like it better since it seems to be a bit brighter (the bug light portion) and thus takes care of critters a bit faster and it can be used as both a lantern and spotlight. NEBO Bug Zapper: https://www.amazon.com/NEBO-6587-Z-Bug-Lantern-Light/dp/B074TH22FB/ref=sr_1_2?crid=27FXU7XDX781S&dchild=1&keywords=nebo+bug+zapper+lantern&qid=1603047333&sprefix=nebo+bug%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-2 U-Pick Camping Lantern: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T64CGZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Small Insect Screen: https://www.amazon.com/ADFORS-Premium-Insect-Screen-Charcoal/dp/B00KIQKN0I/ref=sr_1_5?crid=32ZP3AH1Y8HIF&dchild=1&keywords=small+insect+screen+mesh+roll&qid=1603047517&sprefix=small+insect+screen%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5 I should note that the NEBO is battery powered while the U-Pick is USB rechargeable but neither seem to really use that much juice. Also, it should not be a surprise but the tighter mesh of the small insect screening does restrict airflow more than the original screen. But, while I did notice the reduced air flow, it is not a major factor - just crank up the Maxair another notch 😉.
    1 point
  31. For years now I have tried to tell those "working folk" I run into just how stressful retirement is. After they initially laugh I go on to explain that since they are working they have a fairly good idea of exactly what their day will bring. They know when they will get up, what they will wear, probably what they will have for breakfast, where they will go, what they will do, maybe even where they will eat, what time they will head for home and what they will do when they get there. We "retired folks" don't necessarily know many of these things and we have to make decision upon decision each and every day which leads to STRESS! However, because I (we) care about the wellbeing, health and happiness of others, this retirement thing is just something that I (we) are willing to do. I encourage those "working folk" just to continue to work, pay into Social Security, and be happy. I'll suck it up and handle all this STRESS for them. Bill 😅
    1 point
  32. Best low cost addition to the Ollie that I’ve made is this plug holder for the 7 pin connector. Keeps the plug off the ground and dry when set up at the campsite. Purchased from etrailer.
    1 point
  33. We've been using Shoe Goo since the early 80's. Back then the main purpose was to apply the stuff to the heels of running shoes so that the shoes would last for a number of additional running miles (today's running shoes have soles that are much more durable than they were back in the day). The next "found" use for this stuff was to make both the heels and the toes of fly fishing wading boots last longer and I still use it for that purpose today. Certainly Shoe Goo will "fix" soles that are detaching but it tends to be slightly less pliable than E6000. Both of these products can be used for temporary small leak repairs or awning patching or fishing wader patching or .... Bill
    1 point
  34. Lol...I have the Shoe Goo too. Funny, but when you think about it. Here I am, carrying around stuff to fix an old pair of favorite $30 sneakers (sorry, hiking shoes), in a $60k + camper, when maybe I should have gotten a new pair? But they have packaged the stuff in such a new small tube, and you never know when you might need it. And toothpicks to spread it with...
    1 point
  35. That's what duct tape is for, right? And if you run out of shoe goo, duct tape will fix the sole, but it won't be water-tight.
    1 point
  36. Adding to Mike's response. This picture is from the 2017 owners manual. Mossey
    1 point
  37. This isn't a gadget, but it sure is handy to keep around. Shoe Goo. My favorite hiking boots, and my favorite waterproof shoes, have both had issues with the soles coming detached in places, in the last few years. The stuff is waterproof when cured (24 to 72 hours). It's messy and true to it's "goo" name. Goes on like sticky putty, but it really works. Best if you have a way to clamp it while it cures if you're fastening the sole to the boot.
    1 point
  38. I haven‘t watched the video, will try to later. Some comments: once you hook up your hose to the connection in the bumper there is no need to unhook it when done. Just cap the hose and stow it in the bumper. Next dump you just pull it out, attach whatever you use to go into the ground drain (I use a 90 degree clear attachment) stick it in the hole and dump. The black water gate is under the back dinette seat. The gray water gate is under the street side bed, a good distance downstream from the black water gate. Gray water joins the black pipe under the bed. The cable for the black gate is quite long, the cable for the gray is much shorter. As you look at the handles, black is on the left, gray is on the right. I close the black before pulling the gray. After I drain the black tank, I usually do two rinse cycles, filling the black to about 80% or so and then dumping. On the second the water is clear. Then I do gray. Your gray water will rinse the pipe downstream from the gray gate but not the section upstream to the black gate. It’s a pretty simple operation really. I don’t think it is much different that other RV’s, except that the hose can stay connected. I get lots of comments on that, folks wish their RV allowed them to keep the hose connected, saving steps of unhooking, capping both ends, then putting the hose into whatever storage solution they have. Mike
    1 point
  39. lol, it's...different. Wait 'til you see the rest of the plumbing mods. Pressure testing now, before I finish insulating and tie everything down.
    1 point
  40. We keep the heat register below the curbside bed closed all the time, to try and force heat forward. When camping with electric hookups, we use the Vornado heater that @Mike and Carol recommended here. Overnight we plug it into the outlet at the side of the nightstand. In the morning, we plug it into the outlet next to the bathroom door, and point it into the bath area for half an hour or so. Works well to heat up the bath. When camping without electricity, we use the furnace overnight. Then in the morning, we use the Vornado to heat up the bath for half an hour. Here are my calculations: I have 4 AGM batteries which have 400 amp-hours. Of that, 1/2 is useable = 200 amp-hours. This heater runs at 750 Watts, so 750 Watts / 120 Volts = 6.25 Amps 6.25 Amps x 11 (fudge factor) = 69 Amps. (The fudge factor is because of inverter use, and comes from a post by Raspy.) The heater heats up the space well in 30 minutes, so 69 amps x 0.5 hours = 34.5 amp-hours. I can live with that amount of battery drain. And my wife really likes the bathroom to be warm for her shower.
    1 point
  41. We have traveled 130,000 miles in our two different Oliver's over the past 13 years. We have always had 3 dogs with us, although only one of our current three has made every trip. Unlike your Oliver you are not dealing with a car or van that will heat up dramatically. If the outside temperature is above 45° F and under 85° F, the inside of the Oliver will be very comfortable for them. If the temp is toward the upper end we will leave the Maxxfan running and the windows open a bit. We always leave plenty of water. Our personal rule is that if the temp is above 75° F we will not leave them in the truck. If it is extremely hot (>90° F) we will leave the AC running on the generator. The longest we've ever left them was about 13 hours while we rode the train from Williams up to the Grand Canyon and back. They were fine and very happy to see us and ready to go pee. Usually, it's not more than 2-3 hours. This issue has been cussed and discussed several times here and in other places through the years. As technology has progressed there probably have been some electronic solutions, I'm just not personally familiar with any good ones. Please follow up with your findings.
    1 point
  42. What is your hull number? I had a buzz that would change pitch when various things were switched on or off. I called Progressive Dynamics and described the noise and the fellow asked for a number off the board. I told him what it was and he said I needed a new board. He sent it to me, I installed It and that was the fix. I’m part caveman, so you might say it was so easy a caveman can do it. Read this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2636-noise-from-progressive-dynamics-power-center/#post-136225
    1 point
  43. If that's the River Run I know then there is some good trout fishing nearby too. Bill
    1 point
  44. It is clear that some of you have a very strong electrical background, but I needed some refresher to better understand these lithium battery discussions. So I’m going to try and re-phrase what I’ve learned from this discussion and Oliver. And, cutting to the chase, I’m rethinking the value of the lithium pro package. Perhaps this summary will help others. Warning: long post. Electrical current can be described with this formula: Current = “I” (amps) = Power (watts) / Voltage (V) By example, the current 11,000-btu A/C draws about 1,100 watts. If plugged in to 120V shore power, the current to run the A/C is 1100W/120V, or about 9.17 amps. If, however, the A/C is run on inverted 12V power, the draw is 1100W/12V, or about 91.7 amps. Thus, an hour’s worth of battery-powered A/C would discharge the batteries by about 92 amp-hours. Actually, the discharge would be a bit greater (about 2 amp-hours), because the inverter uses about 2 amps to do its inversion. After this hour of cool air, the batteries could be recharged with shore power at 120V, solar gain at 12V, or (at least theoretically) the tow vehicle (at 12V). Several people have commented that tow vehicle provides very little charge through the standard 7-pin connector, because the wiring is too small. LifeBlue described a TV wiring modification to provide a greater charging current, but others (e.g., Overland) have questioned the ability of newer alternators to supply this current without damage. Absent TV modification, this option is out. With shore power, the controller is set by Oliver accept a charge current of 100 amps. At this rate, it would take a little less than an hour to replace the 92 amp-hour charge after using the A/C with battery power for an hour. The battery could be recharged with solar gain, but this would take substantially longer. With an average gain of about 120 amp hours (see Overland’s solar availability chart posted 6/15/20, using May Wyoming/Montana values), it would take almost a full day of charging (~120 amp-hours) to make up for an hour of battery-powered A/C use. The battery also could be charged with a generator to replace the draw of an hour’s worth of battery-powered cool air, but this, for some, might defeat the purpose. Nontheless, a 1000W generator might replace the 92 amp hours in about an hour (at 100 amps/hr), and a 2,000W generator would do this same job in about 30 minutes. (as an aside, I just checked the Honda 1000W and 2000W generators on Amazon: the 2000W unit is 10 lbs heavier than the 1000W version, slightly quieter than the 1000W unit, and only slightly more expensive. Other electrical uses are also drawing from the battery. This includes lighting (about 7 amps with everything on), electronics (camera, wifi, cell booster, tank monitor) takes about 5 amps, water heater uses about 5 amps, and both vent fans might pull up to 9.5 amps. The inverter takes about 2 amps when in “invert” mode and about 0.4 amps on standby. A composting toilet fan draws perhaps another 1-2 amps. The furnace draws electricity to run. My point is this: an average solar gain of about 10-15 amps on a moderately sunny day, with the trailer in the sun for perhaps 8 hours, will be just enough (or maybe not quite enough) to make up for regular daily uses. There’s not much solar gain left over to recharge from battery-powered A/C use. Similarly, on a series of cloudy days in (as is common in the Pacific Northwest), or when parked in shade, the solar alone could be insufficient for even basic uses over a period of time. Question: does this reflect your experience? So now I get it: this is the reason that folks carry generators (which I’ve always avoided). My hope for the lithium pro solar package was that it would reduce the need for a generator, and perhaps provide the occasional 30-60 minutes of A/C during a hot rest area break. But without generator or shore power (or modified TV power), it’s hard to see how the solar system will keep up with even occasional A/C use. It seems that after spending a premium for lithium pro system, the weakest link could be the solar charging capacity (i.e., need more panels). And if a person is going to carry a generator anyway, might not the 2000W inverter and AGMs be sufficient? Thoughts, anyone?
    1 point
  45. I just noticed this, the duct in that pic has been stepped on and squashed, I wonder how often that happens. I hope the technician trimmed off that section. I also sure hope that upward loop at top right isn’t in the final installation. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  46. I've been looking at replacing all the switches with relays on a 16 channel board with a raspberry pi. That'd make easy app control, or with the an IO board, easy control with physical switches to include a big red button. Bonus in that you can now automate it all as well so you get "welcome home" lighting as desired. As for loud noises, we have a dog that will take care of that in abundance. Animals seem to similarly shy away when the dog goes ballistic. If someone wants to open the door when they hear the dog, then not much in blinking lights and sirens will work and they are probably high and it's best to turn to plan C. Front cameras don't look like they are offered anymore, but the wiring diagram says there is still power run for it. Front camera would cover the biggest blindspot. I'd like to get 360 coverage for parking as well as keeping tabs on what's going on outside without having to peek through the blinds - with recording. At a minimum, I want to be able to see who's at the door without having to peak out.
    1 point
  47. Just two things....... then I will shut up. <for a bit anyway> 1. The whole hidden compartment debate centers around Oliver “advertising” their existence over the objections of quite a few loyal owners. at least imho. 2. Some well meaning advice for those who choose to carry firearms (really.... I am writing this with the best of intentions). Don’t advertise that you have them in any way. It’s not only keeping the bad guys ignorant, it’s the good guys too. There are states (NEW JERSEY) that will send you to JAIL for being in possession of your legally owned pistol that is unloaded and locked in a case. Yes, even though federal law allows this and is supposed to “pre-empt” state law. It’s happened, look it up. Don’t answer questions from law enforcement about firearms and NEVER consent to a search of your vehicle. I am not anti-cop and am an ex-LEO. ‘Next up on guns. Educate yourself on the use of deadly force in self defense. An excellent book is the Law of self defense by Andrew Branca. No one ever “wins” a firefight. If you do everything right you are still looking at about five years of hell, possible financial ruin, and loss of career (if you are still working). Off my soapbox for now. Happy and Safe travels my friends. Hope to see you at the rally. Scotty
    1 point
  48. and I would suggest - risk vs reward. I understand the concern around theft, personal injury, and the like. I will keep doing what's worked for the last 61 years. Use common sense, take appropriate precautions, and go enjoy the day. When young, we had little of value to others, now, older, somewhat more prosperous, we try not to be ostentatious with our stuff. Inside the Ollie, we put valuables - where ever- but out of sight. The really valuable - wallets, "puters" and such go into the truck, hidden and locked. Casual campsite attendance - similar - unless in use. If we leave for a time. lock the door - it keeps the honest - somewhat honest. I will admit, for years I rarely if ever worried about crazy, desperate people - who may pose a personal health risk. And as such, we now carry the appropriate defense hardware. My spouse is trained on hardware use, as am I, we both have and carry appropriate documentation, and have no qualms sharing this predilection. One thing I have come to discover is the fear, or perhaps its dislike, that many people have towards big, health looking dogs. Although our Chessie is a big lovable, muscled up, powerful - powder puff- some people are very "attentive" when he is around. I'll take it, its like one of those Security company signs - visible, but, not really actionable.. I must admit- I wouldn't want him pissed at me - as he has never shown to be an angry dog... well there was once this Fed Ex guy... What Harley does - is few get close without a warning signal or two. Secret hiding areas - ok, I doubt few casual crooks know about them - how many Ollies are out there- compared to the rest - well its not in my wheelhouse of concern. Instead of one of those "ask me about my Grandchildren" signs, perhaps I'll post a recent target practice sample and a small metal sign: "Ask me about my Glock". As far as the Tour video, I appreciate the effort, but to a recovering manufacturing addict, it just leaves me questioning their methods and processes. Not hating, it is just reality. As well as the products appear to turn out, Oliver has a long way to go in the manufacturing arena. I went on the tour, was satisfied they had a decent handle on small scale production, however, little if any documentation, visible process verification, etc. I digress. I like my Oliver, I appreciate the design, and I like showing it to others. Now if we can just get more time, free unfettered, time. Well, have fun all, life is short - enjoy it.
    1 point
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