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We finalized our order for the Elite 1 (shorty) and have a delivery date of 2/2/21. Looking forward to spending some time camping comfortably and exploring our beautiful country. Thanks so much to all of the active contributors on the forum. I look forward to meeting you on the road. Stay healthy and happy trails - Bill

We’ve got a few blue potatoes from the garden and we’ll pick the last of the Brussels sprouts to bring with us before we push off. Grab some Turkey someplace, rotisserie chicken, something like that.. Thanksgiving at David Crockett in a new Oliver with plenty to be thankful for...sounds kind of perfect to me..

We spent four days there in mid September, the trailing end of the busy season. I don’t know much about the West Glacier part, we rushed through it on our way home. There are tons of activities if you like go-carts, zip lines and trinkets. It is just like Gatlinburg TN without Dolly Land. If you are headed east, it’s a great place to stock up on supplies and do laundry since things will get VERY bare in that direction. US 2 over Marias Pass is an easy, pretty drive along the Flathead River. There is a rest stop at the top with an OK view of the south end of the Park. Also a NFS campground (Summit, 12 sites) which is spread out but has minimal sun and no views. Elevation is right at a mile up so it may be windy and chilly. Once you start descending the east slope the dense trees go away and the terrain opens up. There is much less rainfall there. The Burlington Northern main line follows US 2 for many miles, be aware of this when camping and try to pick a spot a mile or two north or south and well away from any crossings. It is very busy hauling freight and coal. Amtrak has two stops, one in West Glacier and one in East Glacier. The East Glacier stop is a short walk from the huge, cool old hotel, so it is busy with visitors, many from other countries. There are mouldering 1930s cottages and tourist shops along the park road road for a mile or so, but nothing really worth a visit. There is gas outside ALL the entrances on this side, but prices will be 30 to 40 cents higher. Browning is the only “big” town (with 1026 souls). The Blackfeet Reservation dominates the entire area. Be very aware of their laws about firearms. If you have any, they must be empty and secured completely out of reach. NO concealed or open carry! Browning itself has cheap gas, a grocery store, post office and a few odd shops, and a museum, but other than despair nothing is present. It is known to be a rough town and you probably wouldn’t want to go bar-hopping there. Expect a lot of visible poverty and a few street beggars. The Museum of the Plains Indians is interesting if you like that sort of stuff. I found myself bored silly, but Jac liked it a lot. The Cenex north of town has a prominent sign posted "No Sticky-Fingers Allowed", with a long list of Blackfeet folks who were banned. The names were astonishing but I didn’t feel it would be OK to take a picture…. https://www.warpaths2peacepipes.com/native-american-indian-names/blackfoot-names.htm ... Two Medicine is a wonderful place, we spent four nights there. It is right under the craggy peaks and the boat launch/ day use area is a good spot for time lapse video of glorious sunrises. It can be ferociously windy and camping is limited now, but if you can snag a spot it would be better than St Mary. There were no generators allowed in that section in season, but they may have relaxed that rule when it went Primitive. Running Eagle Falls and Nature Trail is a delight, with short and easy access from the entry road. The camp store is closed this time of year. Bears are around, the rangers had to chase a sow and her two cubs from the campground by firing a rifle several times. Even when walking park roads you each need to ALWAYS carry bear spray and keep your heads swiveling! Narrow brushy trails are nerve wracking, keep talking or clap your hands loudly to alert any big predators to your presence. You can buy spray in the Apgar and St Mary gift shops. US 89 is the main RV route north from Browning to St Mary and Going to the Sun Road. At Kiowa Junction there is major MAJOR construction and the entire highway should be avoided They are ripping out the hillsides and rerouting and recontouring the road bed. Expect 30 minute delays, pilot cars and one way traffic. It is NOT a place to take a trailer. It might be OK on a dry day without the Ollie. MT 49 goes from East Glacier to Kiowa. The south part is fine as far as the turnoff to Two Medicine. Further north it is Not Recommended For Trailers. It is fun in a truck - the roadbed is heaved, repaired, potholed, washed out and extremely undulating. To get from East Glacier up to St Mary, go into Browning, gas up at the big Cenex a mile north of town, and take MT 464 as a 70 mph bypass. It is straight and smooth with some great views of the Park mountains from the higher hills. Watch out for free range horses on the reservation, especially just north of Browning. You may see them grazing on the shoulder! The Blackfeet love horses but some owners don’t care if they lose one to a collision… St Mary park entrance is busy with tour and shuttle buses. There is adequate RV parking. Since the GTTS road closed for construction on the west side of Logan Pass (September 16), it may be worse. It’s now the only way to access the high country near the Pass.If you want to hike up there, take the shuttle and don’t even think about parking your truck up there. There are several short hikes to viewing areas along the road that are worth visiting. Sunrift Gorge is gorgeous. Parking lower down should not be a problem. St Mary Campground is just OK, it has plenty of room for an Ollie and adequate sun exposure, but it has no views. One section is prone to flooding. It may be posted Hard Sided Campers Only due to problem bears. This is the best choice to stay on the east side of the Park, unless you luck out and find an open spot that is large enough in one of the other smaller campgrounds. I suggest that you stay here two nights. Explore the second day and keep an eye out fo rougher camping options that would be closer to the scenery. You can always claim a spot and leave a small tent or chairs there, and go get your Ollie that day to shift it. Many Glacier is drop dead beautiful, but crazy busy with back-country hikers. It allows low elevation access to a bunch of spectacular trails.The road in is very nasty, potholed and uneven. It is a disgrace for a national park. Parking will be very tough around the trailhead and hotel. You can go past that turnoff and find a spot along the road and walk back.The hotel has a nice affordable restaurant with stellar views out the back windows. The campground there is very tight and heavily treed and not a good spot for an Ollie. Plus it will probably be full of hikers and their tents. Waterton Lakes National Park - we did not go there since we could not do a Canadian border crossing, but it would be an excellent day visit. It’s about 30 minutes north of the Many Glacier entrance on a very twisty road. RV camping outside the Park - practically none. The Blackfeet do not seem to care to exploit tourist dollars. Most of the small towns outside The Res have an RV camp of some sort. Choteau to the south is a neat, prosperous town (it’s the county seat) with a nice little city campground and a $5 dump/ potable water station. Cell signal is spotty at best, you will be able to connect at the entrances and in the bigger towns, but forget about it completely once you are inside the Park. The campground hosts post weather reports in the busy season, that may not be an option this time of year. On a hike you should always carry enough clothes for unexpected rain or cold, and carry basic survival stuff in case you get stranded. A satellite communicator like an inReach provides great peace of mind and a limited degree of two-way communication. A big handgun is OK in the Park if you are legal in MT to carry one, but it is a crime to actually fire it inside there. It cannot be carried inside any Federal facility like a visitor center, so if you are using the shuttle system it probably has to stay at the trailer…. I am still working on organizing pics, I will post some later. John Davies Spokane WA

After a 10 week wait we took delivery and install of our ARE Z topper yesterday. We recently upgraded to a larger more comfortable, much more powerful TV and like stowing our bicycles, Gen, and other camping gear high and dry out of sight and out of mind. I had upgraded rubber bulb seals installed vs the cheap foam tape that flattens out usually within a few months. The foam tape when it flattens out can result in a potential topper bottom edge bed rail paint rub, a no go. Another tip, I had the installers secure the tape to the bottom rails of the topper NOT the bed rails to avoid any cleaning of adhesive on the bed rails should I decide to remove the topper temporarily. This is our third ARE topper over the years and I can report that the fit and finish and Iconic Silver paint match is spot on excellent. Totally worth the wait. Just a bit of feedback for anyone considering an ARE camper topper.

Hi all. There is a post here as to all the spaces and available storage on the Elite II, but is it not different for an Elite 1? (I.e., less space to store your clothing, kitchen stuff, whatever, inside.) If so, and any Elite 1 owners (late models? I am getting a 2021 in Jan) know any dimensions and such, I’m all ears. I have NO idea how much “stuff” I can fit into Elite 1. And I have to downsize (further than I already have) because I’mma go FT. I have watched the Ollie 1 walk-through video and it’s just hard to tell really how much the closet will hold, how much space for shoes, kitchen stuff, everything. If anyone can give me an idea — I know it’s hard to say “Four jackets, 3 pairs of jeans,” etc. — but any idea at all would really help. Thanks!

That is a 2”x5” wide beam, you can tell because of the size of the adjacent supports, which are square 2”x2” outside diameter tubes. In comparison, here is a 2”x4” beam, I used that size for my rear rack. I would have gone wider if I could have found the material locally. I don’t see any issues with mounting that steel receiver to the Ollie beam, though I do suggest you replace the unknown hardware with stainless and self locking nuts. And do use an insulator of some kind, as well as silver antiseize compound on the threads. It sure would be nice if you could find a stainless steel receiver, that painted plain steel one will always be a little disappointing, and prone to dribbling rust streaks onto your rack. In your shoes, I would try to find a fabrication shop that would custom build me a stainless one with a flange, like this: That would never rust or need repainting, and it would look 100% absolutely sexy cool.....! Finally, there is no need to sandwich the outside of the beam so that the hardware is visible, you can drill large holes underneath the beam to allow access to the nuts. This is plenty strong for your application, and much cleaner looking than external ubolts or through bolts. More pics here: .... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3263-how-to-move-the-factory-cargo-tray-to-a-rear-rack/ If my memory is correct, Pete “Bugeyedriver” had a very cool stainless bike rack custom fabricated, I think it had a welded up receiver. PM him and ask for pics and advice. .... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/profile/17-bugeyedriver/ Good luck, start a complete thread on your project with pictures please. John Davies Spokane WA

Noise is a point I hadn't thought of, maybe because I spent most of a day figuring out ways to secure our gear in the camper van so we could hear the radio in the cab.

We just sold our class B+ Leisure Travel Van mainly because it restricted our ability to explore the areas around the campground. And, if you do choose to drive around to see the sights, you have to secure everything in the cab first. Not having to hook-up and unhook were two things we thought would be nice, but in reality, parking a small trailer with no slides, etc isn't that much bother and, IMO, a small travel trailer is easier to level than a 25' long chassis RV. A huge downside to a motorized RV is that it is another vehicle to maintain, license and insure. In our case, my husband's vehicle is our tow vehicle so having a TT doesn't require another vehicle for towing. When we had the camper van, it cost around $1,000 per year to insure plus licensing fees, which can be over $1,000, depending on your state of residence. If you only plan to use your RV a couple of months out of the year, that's a lot to pay for it to sit idle. Every type of RV has pros and cons. You would be smart to rent one of each type to see what fits you best.

Indeed. I just figured I'd share my style here for the folks who haven't yet done enough vehicle based camping to determine theirs.

We did exactly that. When our microwave died from lack of use, we removed it, and built a cabinet. If you use a microwave now, while camping, you know you'll want one again. Everyone has different styles and needs.

We often carry a large plastic bin in the backseat area of the truck for extra clothes when we’re on an extended trip through different weather areas. Your Rebel has a cavernous back seat area, plenty of room to carry clothing that won’t fit in the trailer cubbies. Mike

Bill, congratulations on your order! Another Texas Oliver. Looking forward to meeting you out on the road. Mike

RE roof rack.... even if you don’t plan on installing one, a “rack ready” canopy gives you a much stronger roof structure, important if you often venture off paved roads, the tracks allow you to quickly install crossbars in case you want to carry a boat or load of 2x12s, and it marginally adds to the resale value. It is super hard to add satisfactory crossbars to the truck’s roof, and I really hate the look of an external ladder rack, the kind that goes around a canopy. I don’t see myself buying a pickup anytime soon, but the rack option would be one of the first things I would look for. Does ARE’s warranty cover stress cracks from frame twisting stuff like bouncing around over potholes and water bars? Lots of fiberglass canopies self destruct and they aren’t covered for “abuse”. Thanks, EDIT: found this. Stress cracks in the fiberglass body that begin from a window, boot, door opening or from the base rail are considered structural or material flaws and are covered under warranty for as long as the A.R.E. truck cap is owned by the original purchaser. The exception to this warranty is when it is determined by A.R.E. or its authorized dealer that such stress crack(s) were caused from misuse, abuse, collision or competitive racing. If a stress crack occurs it should be repaired without delay to prevent future failures due to neglect. So, it looks like you are good for doing forest roads, just don’t post YouTube videos of you jumping ditches in your Tremor.... 😀 John Davies Spokane WA

Here’s a couple of pictures of the bikes loaded

Looks great ‘Patriot’... Love the setup...And I have to say begrudgingly (Toyota Tundra owner) the Ford looks awesome.... I’ve also been very happy with my ARE cap too.. the fit and finish is the best, and no leaks... i did also add a tailgate seal to keep out the dust... Added roof racks cause the dogs are pretty spoiled and like their space...

When we picked up our trailer we found that the coax cables were crossed, in other words the TV and the Cable plugs on the outside of the trailer were backwards. After talking with Oliver service they said to just switch the coax cables on the inside of the garage compartment in the trailer. I removed the inside trim panel and switched the cables, no big deal, but wondered why this wasn't checked in final checkout. trainman

Nice going, Bill. February will be here before you know it. We too picked up our Oliver in February and two days after delivery we headed to St. Augustine for a week. Keep an eye on the weather - particularly if you are headed to Hohenwald from the east (this involves crossing the Great Smoky Mountains). Bill

What took you so long? lol Kidding aside, congratulations on soon becoming an Oliver owner!

Good idea on a separate thread specifically for Elite I stuff. It just might make it easier for members to find in the future. Also, I thought you said somewhere that your pup is a black lab. Certainly labs don't generally have a "license to kill" 😄 Bill

Looks good. Are those "bars" on the side windows of the topper used for decoration, support or can you open them for some inside air? Bill

Thanks! It’s my understanding that a Yakima roof rack can be installed. I am not sure about the weight limit, I did not inquire as I really have no use for a roof rack. If we can’t carry our gear inside the cab and under our topper out of the weather - we likely have too much stuff. We have the high capacity tow 535 pkg and zero issues with trailer sway when traveling on the interstate or windy conditions. As for the Tremor suspension/ride? We just rolled over 2k on the ODO and we are very pleased with overall super quiet interior & comfort level when empty as well as towing. Much more comfortable and needless to say powerful than our former half ton TV. The Ollie towing mileage was impressive @ 17.9 - 18 mpgs on our last week long trip. This was only the computer feedback. At some point I will do the math and compare. The topper added approx 200# of weight to the bed which is nothing. I read and heard the the F250 & F350 Tremor supposedly have the same identical suspension. I have yet to confirm this as fact. However with the 535 pkg listed below it may be accurate.

FWIW OneNote plays quite well with Excel, as you might hope and expect. E.g. by letting you paste in sheets into a notes page but then you can also paste in clipped photos or free form notes that often don't fit the very structured rows and columns of Excel.

Your Oliver will come equipped with everything you need to properly attach it to your tow vehicle. This will NOT include a ball mount and ball to insert into the rear receiver on the truck. It WILL include safety chains. It will have a lanyard to attach the breakaway stitch (for emergency braking) to your truck. I doubt it will have a lock for the Bulldog Hitch but most likely, you will be provided with a pin to Keep it secured. You will need to arrive with a tow vehicle that is equipped with a brake controller and wired for a seven pin connector. You will also need a ball mount with a 2” ball adjusted to the proper height. Your delivery person will go over every facet of hitching and unhitching. Relax, all will be fun.

Great way to spend Thanksgiving . . . . . we're picking the last of the tomatoes . . . . . still have carrots and green onions in the ground. Beginning to put the garden to bed for the winter. I'm going to miss the fresh vegetables!

I have a couple months to figure this all out, and buy the right thing. Posted reply elsewhere in this thread re what my sales rep says about the height pf the ball. I have to figure all this out and without having the stuff in front of me with hands-on instruction this is sorta Greek to me at this point. Thank you so much for help!

Regardless of weight, exemption does not apply if the vehicle is, "towing or being towed".

Sure does.. but I’ve been listening to the humming, whining, and whistling of ladders, planks and various other gear lashed on top of trucks for years and while I’ve no experience with bikes on the front of the truck, it seems like a potential noise maker.. besides, designing and building stuff like this is way more fun, and a far better distraction... 20 more days til delivery day...

Looks very nice. Is yours rated for a roof rack? How are you liking the Tremor suspension? Have you taken it on gnarly roads yet? How does it ride, with the bed full and empty? Maybe start a new thread about this..... Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I'd refer to the owner's manual. That, or there should be a sticker on the Escalade's hitch somewhere (often the bottom) that lists the maximum tongue weight. If it says 500lbs without weight distribution, then you should use the Andersen.

I'm assuming you mean Elite II. The BB batteries are GC2 in case dimension only so you'll have lots of opportunity to get creative with making a first class installation. Before you rip into things, have your layout plan set and all the cable, terminals, tools etc you're going to need to make all jumpers and re-terminations. Take a look at the following webpage for some unique battery cable lug shapes. https://www.imperialsupplies.com/browse/electrical/battery-supplies/battery-terminals/magnalugs

Welcome to the forum. The base Oliver is actually a really nice trailer. My first (and probably only) addition would be solar. Not just because I'm a big green energy supporter, but because it's probably the most difficult to retrofit. Even that could be eliminated if Oliver would do pre-wired, instead, since you plan to mostly camp in powered sites Other than that, everything is pretty easy to upgrade, imo. Truma? No. The base water heater is fine. Fibergranite? Not for me, but you'll have to decide. The rest? I'll let others offer their opinions. Sherry

So renting a class B this summer confirmed my decision to go with a TT. It was very easy to drive, park and hookup. It was so loud in the van while driving due to items shaking. I also didn’t care for layout limitations with cab in the living area. Personal preference but renting helped to solidify direction I wanted to go. Good luck.

Ok, so I'll finally contribute to my own thread. Thanks for the suggestions, folks. I don't have much to add except perhaps re the closet. I was on my way down to LA to spend some time with a buddy with a 3D printer and a wood shop when govt lockdowns started. The plan was to prototype some free-standing shelves for the closet. So that project is on hold for the time being. In the meantime, I picked up some hanging shelves from Amazon. They stunk and ripped out after a matter of weeks. I kept the cloth drawers and ordered a different set of hanging shelves with metal loops and that has worked well for clothes storage. What you can't see is that there's plenty of space behind them and back there I have vacuum bags full of out-of-season clothes, a small steam cleaner for the upholstery, and other odds-and-ends. It's a pain to get behind the hanging shelves -- basically have to remove one -- but then that's why I store infrequently used stuff back there. The baskets are just dollar store finds and I find they keep cleaning supplies etc from moving around while on the road. I also put up a command strip hook on the left-hand side and that's where I hang shower stuff once its dry. Similar command strip hooks in the bathroom for cleaning brushes etc. Generally I prefer copious use of command strips to suction cups. Even the command strips need fairly regular "encouragement" to stay put. I think Oliver is leaving money on the table by not coming up with a modular closet organizer and a better solution for attaching baskets and stuff to the walls. This year I'm planning to replace the decorative back splash I put up behind the range with a large sheet of magnet-capable stainless steel. Maybe one sheet of solid stainless for using various magnetic spice containers and knife holders and another section with some sort of pegboard-like holes for hanging shelves etc.

I guess I need to go out and lie down on a piece of cardboard and look closer. Why does the hull have to come off?That seems like a really awkward design feature.... You wouldn't necessarily have to remove it, though fabrication would be a whole lot easier with it upside down on supports. You would have to grind off the spring hangers and maybe the shock mounts. It is super easy to reinforce the Timbren units - you just add a length of 2x3” steel tubing between the existing sockets. It fits up high, giving about 5 more inches of clearance than a straight axle. The Lippert system will not do a thing to correct the severe lack of vertical travel of each wheel. On my trailer there is just 1.5” of up travel before the ubolts contact the subframe. The Timbrens have about 3” up and (the article says) a total of 4”. Not great by offroad standards, but way better than the Dexter springs. And it is progressively dampened, so no more banging and crunching.... I like simple, low maintenance designs. The Timbren meets that criterion. A tandem installation has just four grease fitting, for the pivot bushings. The Dexter EZ Flex is really complex with its 20 zerks and four leak prone shock absorbers. it is a messy PITA. John Davies Spokane WA

So many things I use are online or on my phone/tablet...so I'll break this down into 3 parts: 1) My favorite "online - web based" roadtrip/camping planning tool: RV Trip Wizard is an Online tool I used for planning my trip to/from Hohenwald...it's great. - https://www.rvtripwizard.com/ 2) Apps my Phone/Tablet Tools for Finding and Reserving Campsites: Allstays Camp & RV - also a good lookup tool for campgrounds - https://www.allstays.com/ Campendium - For reviews of campgrounds - https://www.campendium.com/ The Ultimate US Campground App - For locating boondocking sites.= http://www.ultimatecampgrounds.com/ All Trails - for finding localized hiking info - https://www.alltrails.com/ Recreation.Gov - for doing many of the reservations in Nat'l forests, and parks - https://www.recreation.gov/ Harvest Hosts App - for one night stays at wineries, farms, etc. - https://harvesthosts.com/ RV LIfe - All round app I use as a portal into reviews and new campground info. - http://rvlife.com/ 3) Seeing the actual campground sites: I've found so far that I use several apps when planning a long trip. Some are great for finding "camping" others are good for planning the drive. In addition, there are resources we use that help us plan by showing actual campsites as photo's or drive through's including these three sites: Campsite Photo's - https://www.campsitephotos.com/ Campground Views : https://www.campgroundviews.com/ - featuring drive throughs of a campground in 360 deg format so you can look around. The Dyrt - a great site for what's good about a specific campground: https://thedyrt.com/ Hope that helps... Craig & Rose Hull 505 - Galway Girl

We are using RVParky alot right now. It has been good for us so far

Allstays RV Campgrounds, Ultimate US Public Campground, Allstays RV Dump, Campendium. There are a bunch of Allstays Apps, depends on how you camp.

I have driven the Going to the Sun Road a half a dozen times and since Krunch doesn’t usually drive while on vacation, I have never really gotten to enjoy the scenery. So a couple of years back, we stayed in some cabins in St. Mary on Hwy 89 and the Red Buses were parked across the street each night and the drivers would wash them at the end of the day. After a couple of days of watching the bus wash, we decided to take a bus ride and it was the best GTTSR drive ever. I was Mister Prairie Dog, popping up and taking pictures or a look through the binoculars. I really enjoyed it and of course Krunch said it was ok, as she had seen it all on the previous 6 drives. Mike

Flathead Lake State Park, West Unit looking east at the Park: http://stateparks.mt.gov/west-shore/ EDIT 04/20/20: I misnamed this park and have corrected the description. The water is crystalline clear. There are no sites at water level, you have to hike down. John Davies Spokane WA

Going To The Sun area: The big red buses are cool. They have a soft top and the tourists pop up all together like meerkats when there is a photo stop. (Not my picture): John Davies Spokane WA

Browning area. Looking west at the Park at sunrise: Does anyone know what those strange linear clouds are called? We have never seen anything like them before. Afternoon squall moving across the prairie: John Davies Spokane WA

It is smart to check the park website as often as possible, the campgrounds fill up fast; Two Medicine Campground and vicinity: The lighting changes dramatically minute by minute, and the mountains are either shadowed or lit up brightly. It is really hard to get good pics due to the variations....

We were at Glacier the week of 8 September. We got a site at Two Medicine at around noon. Amazing views.

Since I was taking some inside photos today, I thought I'd snap a few to add to this thread. Plus I'll add some that I've posted in other threads recently. Here's how we organize all our drawers: Top right, we use an expandable cultery tray from OXO - I cut out some pieces of a stiff felt liner from Ikea to put in each of the compartments, which cushions the utensils and helps keep the tray from getting marred - In the middle two and bottom left, we use a different OXO tray, with the same felt lining as above - Then on the bottom right, we keep two cutting boards, place mats, coasters, towels, etc., so no need for any organizer - For the nightstand drawer, I used the excellent trick that Bill came up with. But instead of the aluminum angle, I added some adjustable shelf pegs to the drawer, and then stuck some thick felt on the sides of the insert to both center it and keep it from sliding around. Then I placed a similar 10 x 16 tray in the bottom, also with some felt pads to keep it in place. Man, now I know where all the lip balm and sharpies end up. I added two wire organizers to the pantry door (glued some 1 x 2 PVC to the door to give some extra depth and something to screw to.). Unfortunately I can't find these exact items on Amazon now to link to - We added storage nets galore, and these are incredibly handy - In the pantry, I added a stainless plate from Amazon, to which I attached a small box from Ikea (discontinued) to use as a spice shelf. (The box slides under the pantry shelf when closed to keep the contents from bouncing out.). A bungee across the very top on the inside holds a folding drying mat perfectly. The boxes are Sterilite Clip Boxes, medium and small, which you can get on Amazon or at Target. They're the best fitting that I've found so far. On our last trip, I had trouble finding stuff to fill them. The light in the pantry is a Luminoodle Click. By the way, I buy bungee stuff from www.hookandcord.com. I asked for the cabinet instead of the microwave/convection oven, and we keep a toaster oven there, plus I made a shelf for plates and bowls - Some hooks by the door are always handy - As are some flashlights - Over the kitchen, I found these boxes for glassware, mini bar, etc. They're another discontinued item, but if you want to find something similar, they're 6.25"w x 11.5"d x 5"h. We keep out the two or three pans from our Magma set that we use all the time, while the rest stays in their storage bag. I lined the back of all our upper cabinets with the same stiff felt from Ikea that I used on the drawers (they had them on closeout sale, so I bought them out.) Like with the drawers, it keeps things from marring the fiberglass, plus I think it looks a lot better - The bath cabinet stays stuffed, but these boxes from Ikea help to keep it somewhat organized. I covered the back of the door with black vinyl to protect the mirrored surface - In the back of the attic, I put another storage net to hold books in place, and then in front of that, we keep camp chairs and other small items that get unloaded at the camp site. The rest is filled with electronics. -

I'm loading up our trailer for the first trip of the season. This will be the twelfth season for the Target bathroom organizers that I use in the kitchen. Those suction cups have held up really well, but may have to replace the cups next year. We keep flashlights by the bed, and by the door, on velcro. Sherry

In the spirit of keeping this thread going, here are a couple more random ideas I've found useful. We had remotes everywhere until I put this wasted horizontal surface to use! Velcro dots keep them in place when the tv is down. We're on the move quite a bit and at each new location I pick up as much info as I can to plan our time there. All that paper ended up stacked on the table. This simple little file holder mounted out of the way under the dinette table keeps the current info handy without clutter. It can also hold a charging laptop, again freeing up the table surface. When you're living in a small space little things like this can make a big difference?

We found that we weren’t using the cupboards above the dinette very efficiently, since some of the things we were storing there were not very tall. We solved this by buying two of these wire shelves, one for each of the two cupboards above the dinette. Before we got Ollie we were advised to get refrigerator bars such as these, to prevent stuff from falling out when the fridge door was opened. We found that stuff in the pantry shifted around during transit, and so we got some spring-loaded bars double bars for the pantry. We had put heavier stuff on the bottom shelf of the pantry, but things just moved fore and aft during transit, sometimes making a mess. I found the fruit box from the Farmer’s Market fit perfectly, and I could stack canned beers or soda two high in the box to optimize space usage, and they would not shift during transit. But the pantry bars were not enough. The major problem was not being able to maximize the use of vertical space in the pantry. I measured both the available space and the size of the opening at the pantry door, and then went virtual shopping at Amazon and the Container Store, looking at dimensions posted on the web sites. I ended up getting these Wire Storage Organizer Baskets from Amazon. They fit perfectly. GrumbleandTwist put an Ikea bag under the front dinette seat. I wanted something with a solid bottom and sides, as we wanted to carry our pressure cooker in this storage area. So I measured the space and again searched at Amazon and the Container Store. The problem was that bins large enough to use the space effectively are too big to fit through the opening. And then I had an inspiration. Have you ever seen InstaCrates, these collapsible storage bins? We got them at Costco for $7 each, and they are available at Amazon and Walmart for $12-14. We use them when organizing for our trip (foods or clothes), and to carry stuff out to the trailer. At the end of the trailer trip, we bring a bunch of collapsed InstaCrates out to the trailer and use them to carry stuff into the house. We love them. Well, I discovered that the collapsed InstaCrate will fit through the opening into the storage area under the dinette seat, and then I can open it up when it is inside the storage compartment. It works well for our needs.

This one appears to have been dropped from my last post. These are stacking bins for produce in the cubby next to the pantry.

We've been full timing in our Oliver since Nov of 2017. Here are some pics of storage solutions that work for us. It took a while living in the Ollie to really determine how we would use the space so I would caution you to give yourself some time. [attachment file=0311191047.jpg] [attachment file=163145] [attachment file=163148]

Kathi, if you look on Oliver University (the last menu item under Travel Trailers on the website) you’ll find several downloadable PDFs for various dimensions for your trailer. Here's a direct link to the main measurement index.