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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi everyone. I’m newly retired from the US Army after more than 20 years. I don’t have an Oliver yet, but I’m saving and preparing to have one in the next year or so.
    4 points
  2. Is this cable comparable to Kryponite cables? We have several we use for bikes, ATVs etc. I can see where the camping experience could become less enjoyable with all the gear we could be "locking down" each time you leave the campsite. I guess you need to decide which items you can live without for a while and you can afford to replace. My customized bike ($1K+) gets locked; camping gear, not so much. We'll be using a good quality aluminum bed tool chest for securing attractive items (auxillary propane tank, fuel container, generator, BBQ). As for the Ollie - which is better: coupler lock or wheel locks? Has anyone installed a motion sensor alarm as a deterrent, similar to a car alarm?
    2 points
  3. We have the Elite II but just wanted to say that I am so glad we did not get the full mattresses. I am perfectly comfortable with the provided cushions, and my husband added a foam topper. It's so nice to be able to easily lift up the cushions or even put them in the aisle to check on things underneath. The hypervent is a definite plus. We live in the humid SE and just returned from a trip. We kept a constant eye on the humidity using a sensor. One day had condensation on the windows, but we kept things under control with a dehumidifier , cracking windows, and running the fan to pull air out whenever we did any cooking.
    2 points
  4. I think you’d get equal or better protection just tethering the wheels together with a chain and padlock. Maybe that particular device is stronger than it looks, but from the photos it looks like you could just pry off the lock with a good pair of vice grips. Or bend back the clamp with a pipe.
    2 points
  5. I'm holding out for miniature nuclear fusion personal power sources. Elon has it in the works. in the meantime - JD has the answers - options....
    2 points
  6. I did search the forums for "locking wheel chocks" before posting this and didn't find much. I know there will be many opinions/experiences on this, but I will go with the consensus, I think, because it doesn't look like a huge investment to get these (if most agree it adds even a modicum of deterrent value as weighed against the cost/time to use them, etc.), once a few people weigh in. Locking Wheel Chocks. On Amazon. Because I will be leaving the Ollie Elite 1 unhitched when I have to run errands, etc. and don't want to be the low-hanging fruit, especially if there are simple things to do. I do NOT mind taking the time to do things relating to security (to be clear), ever. So the "hassle" or "too many keys" factor is irrelevant (for ME). The peace of mind factor, however illusory it may be IRL ("anyone can steal anything if they want it badly enough," yep I know) would be worth this unless, as I said, everyone weighs in and says "Totally useless!" With the exclamation point. Heh. Thanks all!
    1 point
  7. The x chock design wouldn't give SherMica any help, as she's buying a single axle Elite, but I could see that being of assistance in a couple ways with the Elite II. I'd probably invest in a good hidden GPS tracking device if I were nervous, and the usual locks that most of us get. The cable lock could be useful for other items, too. I do like the barking dog recording idea, though. 😄
    1 point
  8. At least a very cursory glance suggest "probably yes" as an answer as both are 3/8" thick. I'm making an assumption that 3/8" listed thickness of the Master Lock Python includes the outer coating as does the listed 3/8" of the Kryptonite cables, and I'm further assuming that the steel portion is likely also roughly 1/4" as the Kryptonite is and that both are rougly similarly tough steel. If that doesn't seem like enough, this cable lists a 1/2" thickness though as with the Master Lock Python the Amazon listing does not spec the actual braided cable's thickness. If you are already thinking of using some of this type of "stabilizing chocks" (it seems "chocks" is a bit of a misnomer here as I understand the word but...), my understanding is that this model can be locked in position. The cable-through-wheels is probably a bigger hassle to defeat if you use a really good lock, but there's always the question of how much weight and space budget you want to use up. But of course you could do both locking stabilizer chocks AND cable through wheels (maybe even using the same lock to secure both? As well as a hitch lock...). AND the motion-sensor activated recording of the German Shepherd barking menacingly along with some device pounding the floor and rocking the trailer a tad like dog paws stomping 🙂
    1 point
  9. I use these Steelcore tie downs to secure stuff in the bed of the truck. They're heavy fabric with a steel cable inside. I figure that they're about as secure as a standard cable, but they can be rolled up pretty compactly and don't require a separate lock, so they're easy to store. They're supposed to be very difficult to cut with a bolt cutter, but I suspect that the latch is an easy target. Like most other solutions, they're primarily a deterrent and to prevent crimes of opportunity. You can get them keyed alike if you have more than one. The only drawback is that they hold water if they get wet - no big deal. They're stiffer to use than a standard strap, but that's to be expected, and they seem to tighten up well, regardless. They also sell the strap with loops on both ends for use with a padlock. I don't know if you'd be able to get the loop through the openings in the wheels, though.
    1 point
  10. Deploying John's python cable would undoubtedly be easier than hardened 3/8 or 1/2 inch chain, and lighter to carry. You can buy some types hardened chain by the foot at Tractor Supply, and some hardware stores, if you decide to go that route. But, I'd definitely add a sock to help keep it from marring your wheels. Try picking up a few feet of 3/8 or 1/2 inch chain, like transport chain, grade 70, at TS and see how you'd feel tugging and lugging that around. It's useless to spend the money if you don't use it because it's a hassle.
    1 point
  11. Yes, get a good high quality HARDENED chain and a good lock. That wheel chock you linked to is garbage. The very first review... ”The pin locking mechanism jammed in place and would not retract when the clamp was unlocked. This lock nearly stranded my trailer at our campsite. Fortunately it is also not a very durable lock, and a couple of quick hammer blows were enough to break the pin so I could get going.” If you don’t want the hassle of a heavy chain, which will probably scratch the fine polish of your pretty wheels, consider a Master Python cable lock. You would need to add a red flag of some material so you remember to remove it. The cables used to be available in lengths up to 30 ft, but I don’t see the long ones listed. Here is a 12 footer that would also be excellent for securing lawn chairs, a bike or even a generator. Run the cable through the frame and one wheel, put the lock up on top of the tire where it will be out of the weather. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Python-Adjustable-8413KACBL-12/dp/B07TSYB3XY I use a 15 foot one all the time. It is not super secure like a hardened chain and a quality lock, but it is certainly good enough. When I have the flag pole mounted in its tube, I run the cable through the hole in the side, to keep somebody from walking away with it and my wind art.😬 John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  12. SherMica - I simply did a search for "chain" and came up with this post - there just may be more there but this should get you started. Bill https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4567-boondocking-and-securing-valuables/?tab=comments#comment-46261
    1 point
  13. Russell, Thanks for the update and no worries. Safe to say, the overall equation for a 2022 doesn't really change by much. Those same options, at today's pricing, on a 2022, would put me very near or over the $80k mark, and that just is, what it is. As for the options for 2022, their cost(s), and which if any might become "standard", I want to be clear here that the factory didn't indicate any of the options on their current list as becoming standard for 2022. You'll still pay for every one of them. The only real change mentioned was the sealed axle bearings (which will be standard), and the newly consolidated WiFi/4G cell booster unit (which will still have an added price). Anyway, thanks again.
    1 point
  14. Well, I had to go back to the BOS to remember what we paid - what my wife had written on the file was incorrect - my bad. 2018 twin bed EII base (with couch cushions) = $54,100 --- 2022 = $62500 ?? Options = $11,792 - Solar, AGM's, inverter, 30LB, access door, Truma, Natures head ,fiber granite, quick disconnects, sto basket, shower track, easy start, omni antenna, elec door lock. and rear rack assembly (self installed) $call it $66k pre tax. Some what mixed apples to oranges if 2022 includes some options that are now standard - Base to base -+ $8400 for the comparison. I was off a bit - 😬😬😬
    1 point
  15. Bill, coincidentally, I'm shopping for a new topper. The 1.5 memory foam one we've used the last 3 or 4 seasons has developed a tear. Latex is heavier to move around, but I'm guessing better cushioning than my previous inexpensive 1.5 inch memory foam. I've never had a latex topper. 1 inch is definitely more "manageable" when you have to go into the compartments. A full size topper is probably big enough. I bought a queen because it was in sale, but I had to cut it down. For a mattress pad/cover, going over the topper, I recommend queen size, and tuck it in. Full size is really difficult for me to work with.
    1 point
  16. Thanks on that John. I'll keep an eye out to see your update. I've been camping in the cold here in New England a couple of times since getting my E2. As far as I can tell, after a number of tests, the battery heating pad is having zero effect on the battery internal temps. It may be that the light is on but no one's home - meaning that the battery pad light works but not the pad itself. Even after hours at around freezing temps, there is no effect and I cannot feel any difference on the bottom of the battery tray. Will eventually figure out if the pad is the problem but, either way, feel it is worth it to be able to do as you suggest and be able to condition air in the battery box by sharing flow through from the cabin.
    1 point
  17. Congrates on your retirement and thanks for what you did. I second Mike's thoughts on the factory tour. You'll learn a bunch about how these things are built, get to touch, feel and see if an Oliver is really right for you. There really isn't any pressure. Good luck! Bill
    1 point
  18. Welcome to the forum, and thank you for your service. Tennessee offers so many beautiful camping opportunities. Sherry
    1 point
  19. Thanks for asking . . . . . . . We haven't made it to Dodge yet . . . . still on my bucket list though . . . . . . maybe this year 😊
    1 point
  20. Welcome Ajojo. I’m retired Army too... Hope this forum will be helpful to you as you go through the order process. I’d call the sales office and set up a factory tour, you can’t be too far! Mike
    1 point
  21. I can see the $$$ adding up fast - If I were to purchase my 2018, in 2021, and add the tax - I'm over $80K.... And I would not be an Oliver owner. (we are barely in 2021) So you now wait almost a year for delivery??? A travel trailer - no matter how good - is not worth that to me - I strained (mentally) at what I paid in 2018. Add a nice TV - and your talking real money. I would be building my own Earth roamer. Seems I'm keeping mine - but any sale will reflect the new values. Rejoice Oliver owners - we made some portion of $5k this year - were you to sell. Whew - gold in them thar Oliver's!!! As a side note - how interesting - this thread morphed from there to here and around - the deer in my fields - big - small, pretty - ugly - smart, stupid, are selectively added to my freezer. They eat my vegetables - they pay the price.
    1 point
  22. As others have said, once you submit your $2,500 initial deposit you lock in 2021 pricing (assuming you get a 2021 slot) so if you are serious, hurry and save yourself $5,000. Contact your sales rep and get that deposit in. No need to finalize options at this time. That will come later and based on 2021 pricing if you get your order in as a 2021
    1 point
  23. It sounds like you are just starting your research on an Oliver purchase, price seems to be your major concern and discussion point. You might also go over to AirForums and ask the same questions there that you are asking here to get a perspective on Airstreams since that is the standard you are using. There are less expensive fiberglass options if that would be more palatable. There are also some other manufacturers that are making some nice trailers that would be less expensive than a fully loaded Oliver. Check out Nucamp and InTerra. I just replaced my four old AGM batteries with two Battle Born Lithium’s as are other Oliver owners. After looking at practicality and running the lifecycle numbers the lithium batteries were the best option. Mike
    1 point
  24. "I would think that most folks looking at an Oliver decide on options very carefully, depending on budget and camping style. I’m sure a few Oliver owners that are more financially set don’t worry about options and just order the full slate. When we discussed buying an Oliver we started with the base price, not the fully loaded price. We had financial constraints so starting low and adding those options we needed made the most sense. Starting at the upper limit would have been discouraging." Mike, thanks for your continued contributions here, and yes, this is exactly how we felt initially (i.e., very discouraged). We're most definitely on a budget up here, and as I've said earlier, $80-$85k is 'serious' bank for us, so it positively was discouraging. However, now, I'm starting to see more and more people realizing that yes, given their current (and future) pricing, and cost of available options, its absolutely (almost certainly!) possible, to get to get to $80,000, and like it or not, this is clearly into "new" Airstream territory. But thanks again for your most recent posting here. Its helped me a lot. I think I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, and I think I'm pricing things as they are truly priced, but now, I no longer feel like I'm some sort of uninformed, inaccurate, raging, lunatic! 👍
    1 point
  25. In cold weather, the warmer cabin air (from the furnace registers ) will be drawn into the electronics compartments via the lower 4” round holes I am adding (and some warm air will be drawn from under the floor) and then the air is pulled up and through the battery box, and out the top vents just below the pantry. It won’t be a huge airflow, but the fan consumes almost no power (0.07 amps) so it can run 24 hrs with minimal affect on the battery load. The main idea is to get rid of the dead air and replace it constantly with conditioned air from the cabin. It should work. How well, is the big question. I will have a battery temp sensor, so I can tape off the vents, see how it reads, and untape the vents and operate the fan for a few hours. I would expect to see a distinct temp change. And I hope the pantry temp will also be a little better. It and the closet both need airflow. I may add a fan at the closet up high, with holes drilled in the floor right next to the door opening, to get it “moderated”. I have pretty much finished with the venting, I still don’t have the Redarc charger. Soon I hope.. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  26. John, For a place to stay, just off of I40, here's some campgrounds: Santa Rosa SP NM & Homolovi SP AZ. While camping at Homolovi SP AZ, we got to "Stand on the Corner at Winslow Arizona" and attend a car show:
    1 point
  27. CT short Thanks for the picture. I knew nothing about the Andersen, other than Oliver sales told me that I needed it. I said okay. I now know what I need, and don't need, when I pick up my Elite I in March. And have a better idea how to secure the trailer and hitch. Thank you very much. SherMica, I had a similar question about what I was going to need - I am getting the Andersen for my Tacoma and Elite I. I now know that I don't need anything, other than the square thing that the thingy slides into - the receiver, the part that is mounted to the truck. Everything else will be provided by Oliver at delivery, it seems. We won't need to have a ball, or the insert - just the brake controller and seven pin plug. I couldn't ask that question the way you did, because I am a 66 year old male who is supposed to know stuff 🙂 I now understand why I was getting confused answers when I asked what insert height I needed to take with me. I don't take one.
    1 point
  28. Not sure if this reply goes to all who contacted me but here is my response. I'd consider a used Elite depending on how it is configured but by all accounts, they are rarely on the market. I did have the Alde heat system which is brilliant. I do not have the Coolcat AC but something they call the Aire8 AC. Folks are curious about the fold down sink in the bathroom. To be honest, I rarely use the bathroom, especially the sink. It drains water ok and I don't see any problem with it. The TAB does have a "cool" factor but I just haven't enjoyed it as much as I thought I would. Having said that, there's nothing I would say against it. I guess tastes can change. Truth is, I have always wanted an Oliver but its no mystery that you have to pony up the big bucks to get one. I might be about ready. Thanks for all the comments. if I don't return comments in the future don't take it personally please. This forum business can get time consuming in a hurry. As a retired professor, I try to minimize my online time if I can :).
    1 point
  29. This is true . . . . takes some creative planning. Nevertheless, I'm impressed with the storage in our Elite II.
    1 point
  30. From previous posts I understand that the awning is a 16-foot version of the Girard model GG750. FYI, I called Girard about the two fabric options (standard is a vinyl material; "pro" is a canvassy sunbrella material called "Bravia") -- I was interested in longevity. Longevity, of course, depends on many factors, including sun exposure, humidity, conditions during storage, etc. I was told that the vinyl might last at least 3-6 years with "typical" usage (whatever that means, although the company is in Southern California); Bravia 5-8 or perhaps 10 years. Bravia is breathable; vinyl is less so, and can mildew if stored wet. The vinyl costs $270 + shipping and labor to replace (he said replacement is not all that difficult, and there is a video to help guide the process). The corresponding replacement Bravia material costs $560 + shipping. Thus, a person could go through 2 vinyl replacements and still be ahead over the cost of the Pro model (assuming labor is DIY and free), although the Pro model represents less throw-away material (the Pro model would also include the sensor and light, I suppose). Finally, FWIW, the entire unit (didn't specify standard or Pro) weighs about 80 lbs.
    1 point
  31. Yes . . . . we would have chosen manual over power . . . . but with the switch to Girard awnings, manual is not an option since they don't have a manual version. I do love the Girard design; it is so much better than the "awful awning" on our previous RV - a Carfree with support legs.
    1 point
  32. We ordered the end of August. Our trailer went into production on 12/21/20 and we have a pick up date of 02/15/21. It's getting close!
    1 point
  33. You're welcome. The 12 volt socket that I used is very similar to THIS ONE versus the one I link to above but (for what its worth) I think the one at WalMart was a touch cheaper. In conversations with Patriot, he has told me that his new Ford Tremor has powered switches at the top of the windshield - bottom of the headliner. If an easy way of feeding the power wire exists to allow going through the firewall where the fuse box is located for these switches, wiring into these would provide a slick result with the ability to switch on/off the power to the rack. I did consider "fishing" the power wire over to the fuse panel that is located on the outside of the passenger footwell. Once there I would have found a circuit like the one for the sun roof that is switched via the ignition. But, obviously, I was simply too lazy and since the Garmin doesn't consume very much power (particularly when the screen is off) I'm not worried about draining my battery if I forget to unplug the Garmin when I stop for the night. Bill
    1 point
  34. I think a larger Ollie (Elite III) is a great idea to make the Oliver travel trailer (superior quality and functionality) available to those that want/need extra space. We have only owned our Elite II for a month and a half now, and I've already made a bunch of modifications. While I enjoy doing modifications and have many of the tools and skills needed to pull some of them off (especially with help from forum members who have been there, done that), there are some that I'd just rather pay for. So... in addition to a new Oliver III, I'd like to see Oliver start offering upgrades (packaged) to new and current owners of the I's and II's. Some ideas that I'd have reached deeper into my wallet for... Deep winterization package (for extreme conditions such as Rocky mountain skiing), off-road package (with upgraded suspension, mud flaps, body protection), increased solar capacity, upgraded components like the refrigerator and/or A/C, options for using the available black tank when composting toilet option chosen. It would be great to have more access panels, ports, etc. located throughout the trailer to make troubleshooting, modifying and fixing things a lot easier. These would be nice additions, but all in all I wouldn't trade in my TT for anything else - I'm very happy with the Elite II!
    1 point
  35. We’ve been members of Harvest Hosts for two camping seasons now in our travels with our Oliver. Well worth the money. It’s been very useful for quick overnight stops on the way to our destinations, and some hosts have had a power hookup available. Some great overnight stops to see things that we otherwise would have missed out on if we had just done the Walmart or Cabela’s parking lot overnight stays. Nowhere near I40 but one example of a great HH stop is the Glenn Curtiss Aviation Museum in New York. This was one of my favorite HH stops. Otherwise a lot of wineries as HH stops. We did get the upgraded membership that includes many golf courses as well. We’ve been planning a trip out west for next year and there are a LOT of HH stops all along I40.
    1 point
  36. This may be of some interest regarding Ring and RV security...
    1 point
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