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Unless those regulatory issues have a reason for being. Shouldn’t the default assumption be that both Oliver and the brake manufacturer know what they’re doing?

Personally, I think it’s an interesting question and I’d like to know the answer. But having said that, I do think that the default assumption should be that Oliver has done it correctly. Particularly since this is a safety issue. For what it’s worth, the wiring diagram in my Dexter manual doesn’t show a fuse either, nor is it called for in the installation text. While I agree that it seems logical to have a fuse, it also seems logical to have at least one bit of supporting documentation before we all start messing with our braking systems. Searching around the internet, I can find discussions asking the same question for other trailers, but no answers other than opinion. So the only thing I can say for certain then is that the lack of a fuse isn’t something unique to our trailers.

CELL BOOSTER As Andrew notes, Oliver is no longer using the WeBoost unit; they've gone to the SureCall Fusion2Go 3.0 (https://www.amazon.com/SureCall-Fusion2Go-Vehicle-Booster-Carriers/dp/B079TKG6Q5/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Fusion2Go+3.0&qid=1611515323&sr=8-3). A 5-G knock-off, perhaps, although it seems like SureCall is one of the larger suppliers for this sort of device. Here are product specs: Uplink Frequency Range (MHz): 698-716 / 776-787 / 824-849 / 1850-1915 / 1710-1755 (G Block Included) Downlink Frequency Range (MHz): 728-746 / 746-757 / 869-894 / 1930-1995 / 2110-2155 (G Block Included) Supported Standards: CDMA, WCDMA, GSM, EDGE, HSPA+, EVDO, LTE and all cellular standards Input/Output Impedance: 50 Ohm Maximum Gain: 50 dB Noise Figure: ≤5 dB VSWR: ≤2.0 Gain Adjustment: 20 dB (Automatic) DC Car Charger: 6-15V Maximum Output Power: 1 Watt EIRP Cable: SC-240 Exterior Antenna Cable Length: 40 ft RF Connectors: FME Male (both ends) Power Consumption: <10W Dimensions: 5.625" x 4" x 1.125" Weight: 1.43 lbs This unit supports multiple frequencies: LTE bands 12, 17, 13, 5, 2, 25, 4 (i.e., more than bands 4 and 13 on older models, which is good). The Internet Resource Center folks (MIMO vs Boosters: Do Cellular Boosters Provide the Best Signal & Data Performance? - YouTube-- thank you, Andrew, for the initial link) seem to have a decent opinion of the SureCall cell booster. However, I'm beginning to think that the hotspot approach (such as the Jetpack sold by Verizon) may offer a better antenna, wifi access to internet for other devices (e.g., laptop and tablet), and a port to plug a MIMO antenna or an even better antenna (such as John Davies is doing). Furthermore, StarLink (https://www.starlink.com) may soon provide an internet alternative where one system serves both home and trailer (100 Mbps download, ~$100/mo), with access in and out of cell areas, negating the need for pulling in weak cell signals. Expensive, yes, but if it replaces DSL or cable at home a well as provide mobility, then it's an intriguing solution. WiFi BOOSTER According to the Internet Resource Center (IRC), the WiFi booster used by Oliver (WiFi Ranger Sky Pro, based on photo in Upgrades -- please correct me if this is not true) is decent, but not very future proofed. My understanding is that the model is being discontinued. There are many alternatives out there at various price points that do different things. Head-spinning, really. The IRC folks are making a full-time occupation out of reviewing the plethora of devices for mobile cell, internet, and wifi uses. Thus, unless some of you make a compelling argument to the contrary, I think I will try the trailer without the factory-installed devices initially, and perhaps look more closely at a Jetpack or similar device in the future.

Well, this has been very interesting, there are strong feelings on both sides. I am waiting to see if the BAS manufacturer replies with any useful info. If so, I will post their response here. As an ex aircraft tech, my personal view of the Oliver electrical systems is that they make mistakes or weird choices through lack of care in the production line, or from marginal design engineering. Like the inverter recall a couple years ago because they left off the mandated extra chassis ground (they never caught that very serious error until it was pointed out here in the forum and they were notified as a service request). Burying important wire splices in inaccessible places. Not using minimal cable lengths, and instead leaving the many extra feet of it in an unsecured tangle, AKA “rats nest”. Using grossly oversized inverter cables, which are costly and awkward to deal with. I am making those statements based on Hull 218, they have definitely improved, but I won’t blindly accept something like the lack of fuse protection here, unless there is a documented reason for it, one that actually makes sense to me. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

I'd add another "rug" to the mix, if you haven't already. A walkoff, or welcome mat, before the trailer steps can grab a lot if dirt. Even if we don't put out the big rug, the walkoff always gets deployed.

1. Good video 2. Good music 3. Ya just gotta paint those 4 bolts holding the RAM ball black 4. What's that sweet looking camper in the back ground? Bill

Hi Liana, I just did that with our new LEII. You have to pull hard on the blind near the clips to get them to release. There were 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom of ours - not sure about the 2018, but you'd have at least 4. Once you pop the blind off you can figure out how to tighten the loose clip, then just flip the blind around and you'll now be able to see how to line up the back of the blind with the clips. I just pushed hard to get it to pop in as well - one at a time. I did not try to do multiple at once. You will be comfortable once you get one clip to release - so maybe try a few until you get an easier one. Good luck!

I recently purchased this towel bar from Ikea with the intent of installing it on the bathroom wall, just below the Oliver towel bar. Haven't decided on exact placement yet. BTW: I was skeptical of the quality of the fixture, since the price is modest. It seems to be quite sturdy and well made. I'm going to use 3M picture hanging strips (dual lock) as a temporary attachment to determine the best placement before attaching it with VHB tape. Questions: Will VHB hold up to water exposure? Is it strong enough to support moderately wet items; wet bath towels will be hung on the Oliver installed towel bar or the wall hook. I will need to come up with a way to prevent the bars from rubbing on the wall during transit; will try something like foam pipe insulation. Also, the part of the bar that extends out moves freely. I'm thinking some sort of rubber cap to fit over the end to hold it in place when not in use. What do you think? Has anyone else done this? Any other suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

I'm familiar with that one, but we ended up with traditional bars. In general, though, we've had good luck with Ikea products in the trailer, at least in terms of quality - and with appropriate expectations on the front end, given how inexpensive they are. Our bath mat and towels have held up surprisingly well, dishes have remained in one piece, bath faucet seems perfectly fine, bath trash can has been fine, etc. A few things haven't worked out - mainly kitchen towels, which were OK but deemed too thin and replaced, and various storage organizers have been hit and miss in terms of their utility, though their quality was fine.

After being out on 2 cooler weather trips now, we see the advantage of a portable propane fire bowl! We went to order one and this amazon deal came up - $40 off the regular price! Several folks have posted they have them and it's been on our (well, mine) list for a while. FYI if you are interested. Dave

Perhaps it is a RIVA spec - here is a link: https://www.rvia.org/standards-regulations/laws-and-regulations & State/Cite (rvia.org) Or NHTSA. Perhaps it is a Canadian regulation? Call Oliver - I would believe they know. I don't really care to spend time searching. My 16" tandem 3500 lb axle "farm" utility trailer does not have the break-away - however my former enclosed tandem axle did have the BAS. All my boat trailers did not have BAS. Who knows??? As the BAS is a normally open - closed when activated - you would NOT know of a open fuse until it is to late - in most cases. As has been stated - Oliver must be counted on to understand the requirements, and engineer and build accordingly. I would not recommend altering the circuit - for legal reasons alone. Were one to have an issue - your Oliver takes off on it's own. the brakes do not work as designed, the subsequent wreck causes havoc on something or someone - and a subsequent investigation finds the altered circuit. Hmmm - we have seen this move before. I must say Oliver owners are a cut above - most others just use the RV until they don't - BAS - what BAS. Happy Trails all Keep them little doggies behind you Hooked up, tethered, and BAS working.

Yup, same here

Looking at similar discussions on other trailer forums like Airstream Airforum and the Escape forum it looks like the breakaway switch is not fused by other trailer manufacturers either. Whether it is a regulatory retirement issue or not isn’t clear but the industry practice seems to be no fuse on the trailer emergency breakaway power circuit. So I wouldn’t say this is an oversight by Oliver or a flaw. It looks like it was a risk assessment decision by the manufacturers, balancing the risk of fuse problems vs. the risk of electrical short in a mission critical emergency system. And based on discussions here and elsewhere, fuse problems (wrong value installed, fuse holder corrosion, etc.) seem far more common than dead shorts in wiring.

Wow - what a dramatic image. Interestingly, that's also what the battery could look like after the travel trailer broke free from the TV and crashed and burned - all because the emergency brakes didn't work due to a blown fuse that isn't supposed to be there. I think I'll wait for OTT to issue a safety recall if it's not correct as is.

I've always vacuumed (with soft brush) and then used a tack cloth. This is how I learned to prep when working for a few years in a commercial wood shop and it's been the consistent advice I've read for various products from spar varnish to epoxy to various oils etc. Just fwiw...

John It may be in your best interest not to try to preach putting a inline fuse between the brake away. If you chose to do it, that is your choice. Some things are better left alone.

We like ours, definitely fits somewhere in the truck bed!

Definitely a good question... “To fuse or not to fuse?” I think the manufacturer logic is that you wouldn’t want to have a fuse that could even have a possibility of blowing in an emergency breakaway situation. If that switch is activated in a trailer breakaway scenario, I want the trailer brakes to be applied no matter what. I don’t want a fuse to blow if it’s a slight over current situation, or a loose fuse holder or corroded fuse contacts that could affect the emergency braking function. The fuse blowing would disable the emergency application of the brakes. If having no fuse means that there might possibly be some damage to the wiring with a really prolonged high current draw after breakaway, then I think that’s a worthwhile trade off to make sure the brakes get applied and stop the trailer. There’s no current flowing through that circuit in normal operation while towing or parked (although hungry mice could be a factor). So I’m not worried about protecting anything other that the trailer itself in a breakaway emergency. If there is some short circuit that is causing current flow in the breakaway circuit in a NON-emergency situation then it should be pretty self evident and I’ll probably notice that right away when I’m trying to move the trailer since the brakes will either be locked up all the time, or non-functional when I do the breakaway switch test as recommended.

This came in today. Love it! Puts off enough heat for 4 appropriately distanced people. The only downside is that it's something else to put in the truck.

Thank you John. That puts things in perspective. An inline fuse seems like a good safety addition regardless of regulatory issues. The build for my Elite II (hull #769) is just beginning. Picking up in March.

I followed Topgun2's advice and executed a similar install to enable a swivel arm in our new F350. (EDIT - I also pulled the 20A fuse for the Power Port before doing this work.) 1) I started by removing the dash tray (I used painters tape to protect your dash from scars from the plastic pry tools). 2) Snap off the "speaker cover" it is hard to pull off as it's secured by clips in 4 corners. 3) Remove 2 - 7mm bolts in the front (windshield side) of the tray. 4) Remove the 2 - 7mm bolts on the top of the radio stack front surround. 5) Pull out the radio stack surround, and loosen 2 more 7mm bolts below the radio facia to remove a retaining facia (holds on the side trim stacks.) 6) That allows you to pull straight out on trim to the right of the radio which includes the a/c vent and more importantly access the back of the power point (cigarette lighter). 7) Splice onto the wires from the Cig Lighter port. Feed the wires up into the area above the radio and below the speaker tray. The wiring diagram below was supplied by the Ford BBAS service for 2021 F350. The Cigarette Lighter B+ is the Green/Brown Stripe wire, and Ground is Black with Blue Stripe. Finished install with Garmin all setup. Since the tray removal and wiring was a little tricky I made a quick video showing tray removal and re-install. I considered using the up fitter switch, but realized that there wasn't enough current draw to warrant all that effort and using up a switch. Also, I learned that the "through the firewall" wires ended up making me wish Ford would allow 6" more wire for the "through firewall" feeds. They are so short, you need to completely remove the fuse panel to get access to the bundle of 4 through firewall wires. So I stopped that effort. I wired into the same dash 12v power port circuit as Topgun2. That port dash circuit has a 20Amp fuse, and my devices don't pull more than a couple of amps normally. My backup camera plugs into the 12V power port in the tray, and my Garmin into one of the 2 USB ports. Here's the video showing dash tray removal and reinstall. Dash Tray.mp4

I’ve had my eye on one of these outdoor mats for some time. I think originally they were a military product and then for a while only available in Australia, but it looks like you can get them here now for a relatively reasonable price. The color selection is a bit bright for my taste, but I may give one a try. https://www.cgear-sandfree.com

Mossemi did a diagram for another person with the same question about the aisles: As far as the outdoor rug, several places, including camping world, sell woven outdoor rugs that fold. We have an old one from ikea that rolls up, doesn't fold, same type of woven plastic. We throw it over a ladder and hit it with a hose to clean it.

I can’t remember what we paid for ours, but with the campfire restrictions almost everywhere these days, it’s been a great purchase regardless of price.

Richard - Welcome and congrats! There will probably still be things that you will want to do to your "new" Oliver and now you have it for the balance of the winter so you can start getting those things done. Perhaps start with a nice cleaning and polishing of the interior? Anything we can do - just yell - there is always someone here to help. Bill

These measurements refer only to the area covered by the flooring of your choice. Mossey

This is what I have been looking for. Knew I had put those do-hickie "thingies" in the camper spare parts can for something. What surprises me is that I am caught up to a 2018 "To Do List".

This is just a follow up to my original shady post. We were successful in flipping the blinds, strengthening the grip so they won't slip down so easily, and more firmly attaching them to the clips. (Please see above.) However, when widening the clips with vise grips, I cracked one of the brackets. I had, previous to tackling these tasks, sent an email to Auto-Motion, the manufacturers of the blinds. I received a phone call from one of their employees today, Vic. After I told him that I solved the problem with the blinds coming loose but had cracked one of the clips, he graciously told me that he would send a few more clips to me. He also said that I had rightly identified the problem: The clips were too narrow to firmly hold the shades. However, he gave me some information that might be helpful to other Oliver owners: He said that, if the screws holding the clips were driven in too tightly, the clips could narrow and not hold as snugly as needed. I'm not sure if this was an issue for our clips, but they WERE very firmly attached to the spacers with the screws. Anyway, I thought that I would pass this information along. I CAN say that widening them the way I did with the vise grips seemed to help: The shades seemed to need more force to pop them back into the grooves and, once in place, seemed to be more tightly affixed to the wall by the clips.