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Well - with most of local business shut down for the day, and Ollie in his winter cover - we made Lemonade out of lemons - err, umm a snow couple out of the white stuff. About 3 inches, temps warming up, we will be back to normal by Monday. In the meantime - enjoy and be safe. The bounds couple in white. RB

Ok, thanks to @SeaDawg's comment above about a software setting to turn the charger off, some kind of neurons fired (or misfired) in my head and I thought of the post I had read from @Dgsmithyesterday about his issue with the charger ignition control "setting" being wrong - not allowing the inverter to charge the battery. Well, I went out and tried toggling this software setting and it works. I can turn the charger on and off with the software setting!! No more [20] error code, no more reaching under the bed all the time to toggle that relay - and its great IF it isn't causing any other unseen issues or risks. This has been a valuable collaborative effort on this topic! The reason my inverter was getting the [20] error code was because of the way I was trying to take care of my batteries. Everything started pointing to the Xantrex misbehaving when no batteries were connected while it was alive and passing shore power through. There may be other things that can cause the [20] error code, but fingers crossed that this was the primary reason some of us are seeing it. I'm not advocating doing this without validation from Xantrex / OTT Service that it's safe. I'm going to share all of this with OTT Service and hopefully they can work with Xantrex to verify if it's safe as a workaround OR have Xantrex provide a permanent, approved solution. I'll shut up now - everyone can breath a sigh of relief! 🤣

The Oliver installed Lagun inhibits some access. So, a number if people have followed Overland's excellent instructions for a different mounting location and method.

You're not in "timeout." 😄 I'll check into this with the admin and see if an update has caused an issue with settings. Sorry for your trouble.

Memo from Xantrex: http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom XC/FXC PRO Remote compatibility Memo.pdf Note: This memo is from 8 months ago. I'd be curious to know what panel part numbers/serial numbers are on the units that are acting up.

Another point to remember is that bearing don't have a recommended change interval. Don't just assume because they have 12,000 miles on them they're shot. The number one cause of trailer bearing failures is infrequent use and the subsequent corrosion or pitting that can occur due to grease contaminated by condensation/moisture forming inside the hub. Routine inspection and repacking, or more frequent supplanting of old grease, are the accepted ways to extend bearing life.

There are a lot of unnecessary parts listed in that kit, some you can't even use. All you need are the bearing cones and races and a grease seal. Everything else can be reused unless you damage or lose something. The bearing sets are available for $5-6 and a seal is around $3-4. Those bearing part numbers listed are correct for your axles but they are also industry standard numbers that every bearing manufacturer uses. Timken specific numbers to search for a cone and race set are: SET17 (for the inner), SET4 (for the outer), and then 473336 for the seal, which may be in either a National or Timken box.. Sometimes pricing will vary between buying a SET part number and the individual numbers. For instance: SET4 versus L44649 and L44610.

Like many Oliver owners, and forum lurkers - I repack my own wheel bearings, grease the chassis, and anything else that needs doing. Recently I did my wheel bearings, Dexter has a decent video on the topic if your so inclined, and I ended up replacing both sets on the left side of my Oliver. Once I clean them really well - I do a close inspection to ensure they are good to go back on. I found some indication of damage - these are the bigger inside bearings. If you look opposite the black dot- between the black lines you can see what I'm referring to. You cant see it, but where the indention is on the top side between the rollers is a polished spot, indicating it rubbed on the bearing race. I'm not sure if they were manufactured this way, or if damaged during assembly. I put new Timken's in their place. So perhaps some of the failings we have read about may have come about from this sort of longer term wear. These had 13K miles on them, the bearing cups/races looked fine. Hope this is of interest to ya'll. RB

I don’t have my Oliver yet but I do have a Lagun table that I installed in my current camper. The lagun apparatus came without a top and I found a great bamboo cutting board and it simply attached to the bracket with six wood screws Your options are endless.

In a state like Texas that produces way more energy that we need it is a shame this happened. Many political issues that we don’t need to get into here. There will be a serious look at how we produce and distribute our electricity and water. We’re fine. I have the trailer in the driveway with heat. I’ve made a serious dent in my firewood supply but we had our propane filled late last week so heat and cooktop are good. Temps will be above freezing this weekend for the foreseeable future. In other words, back to normal. BTW, it’s still snowing big fluffy flakes. Scenic! Mike

Mike & Carol - It's terrible hearing about all of the issues going on in the great state of Texas with the weather you are having down there. I trust that the two of you, Bugeyedriver, both your Ollies and your Mom are all OK. I'm hoping that once your politicians get done blaming each other things will settle down, repairs will get done and plans will be put in place to help mitigate future issues of this nature. Stay warm until it gets too warm. 😇 Bill p.s. BoB - nice snow creatures. Over here on the other side of the mountains in NC we were supposed to have an ice storm last night but it never happened - too warm. Now, given the amount of rain we are looking at the chance for minor flooding.

We didn't have the Oliver installed Lagun table. I did purchase a Lagun table kit directly from Lagun. We installed our own custom table. Based on this I would say yes just unscrew the original top and screw a new table on. I would test fit where you locate the bracket on your table. You might find not placing it in the center will give you some nice options. We followed Overland's side mount instructions. This gives us lots of flexibility. Good luck!!

Pat and Molly: If you decide to not make the Teak items yourself, attached is a catalog from Foy Speering who is a Oliver owner in Florida. I purchased the shower mat, cutting board that fit over the sink and the silverwear organizer. Foy does a wonderful job in his wood shop and ships them to you. Highly recommended and you will find him on the Oliver forums. Richard Foybles' Catalog V2.0f (1).pdf

I'm not getting that error. I just sent you a PM as a test and I'm pretty sure it worked. I don't know if there are multiple ways to send PM's but I just click on your avatar and see the "message" box and take it from there.

I just realized that when on shore power with the battery disconnected, the Xantrex remote and inverter both think there's still a battery there! It shows the battery as "100% full" and in FLT (float) mode. This all points to a problem with the inverter not really recognizing the fact that the battery has been disconnected. This also may help explain the fan cycling issue I saw - if the charger is thinking there's a battery there, it is sending a float charge to the relay? Could that be a fire hazard? Probably not since the wire is thick and the amps would be low, but imagine if the inverter thinks the battery is empty and sends 100 amps to the relay. That might be a problem.

If you are going to use Timken's, they make their own brand of grease: https://www.timken.com/products/timken-mechanical-power-transmission-products/lubrication-lubrication-systems/automotive-wheel-bearing-grease/ Not sure if it's better or not (probably not), but I picked up some Timken specific grease for when I replace my Dexter's.

Jason sent me this same version, U3 v1.06. Something isn't adding up here. This firmware is from 8 months ago and from what I can tell most of us having this issue have just picked up our Ollie's recently and have the 3000 inverter (lithium package). I was working directly with Xantrex technical support about a month ago on a different problem and mentioned this [20] error code many of us were seeing. I was told at the time that they were aware of the issue and were testing a fix that required a complete re-flash of the software (not just a firmware update), and that it could only be done at a certified Xantrex service center. The tech didn't even mention trying v1.06 to try and resolve the [20] error and it was certainly available at the time. I put the new firmware on yesterday - it was simple and only took a few minutes. I didn't think it worked it was so simple and quick, but my Xantrex is indeed now running U3 1.06. It has not fixed the problem on my inverter. I can recreate the [20] error every time by cutting the connection (using the relay) between the Xantrex and the battery while on shore power. I do this often because I don't want the Xantrex keeping my Lithiums topped off and the only way to stop the Xantrex from charging the batteries while on shore power is hard disconnect. I can also "fix" the [20] error by cycling the shore power AFTER the battery is already cut off from the inverter. The remote works fine until I connect and subsequently disconnect the battery again. I don't think Xantrex expected their customers to be continuously connecting and disconnecting the batteries in order to manage the SoC, but you pretty much have to if you own Lithiums since the inverter is set up by default to always top off the batteries and keep them there. I know these Lithium vendors say don't worry about it - our BMS protects the battery... but that's a marketing response. All research points to the fact that temperature and SoC are the two critical factors in Lithium longevity. Temperature does more damage to the Lithiums when they are in a full SoC as well - so why keep them at 100% when on shore power? I'll try and figure out what the serial number on my remote is and share it with OTT, but I suspect this firmware has nothing to do with our [20] error code. In the meantime, if anyone with the Lithium package has a chance, it would be interesting to see if anyone else can recreate the [20] error consistently with the sequence I described above... or, if there are any other sequences that cause the problem?

I have been considering the purchase of this hitch with a built-in scale. I have another trailer, and it would be real handy for load balancing my other “toys.”

Hi Pat and Molly. We used a sea coast and nautical theme. We live in mid coast Maine. My wife takes photos so we had a number of them printed on canvas and hung them using 3M strips. The photos included Maine lighthouses, coastal scenes, navigation buoys, and a nice one of our downeast boat. We also added a custom side mounted Lagun table per Overlanld's design. Our table top was a custom made folding mahagony table like one you would find attached to a binical in sailboat cockpit. We customized the exterior with vinal graphics. They are photos of Pemaquid Lighthouse. We named our Ollie "Beacon" Banana Banners in Bowdionham, Maine did the vinal graphics for us. We were referred to them by Mainiac. They have done graphics for several Oliver owners. I have seen folks also use some custom final graphics on the interior too. MCB did some nice ones in and on the outside of his Ollie. Also from Banana Banners. We also purchased bed covering to fit the theme. Good luck this can be fun.

I'm also curious as to the firmware release number forwarded to Oliver, and forwarded to mcb and nceagle. The latest release number on the xantrex website is 1.06. This looks to be a 30 to 45 minute process, even if your trailer is at he house, if all steps are followed, properly. As Jairon noted, it would be interesting to see serial numbers on the inverters . And helpful, to both Oliver and Xantrex. We chose Xantrex for the boat for a number of reasons, including the size, lighter weight, dual function, and Xantrex history of reliability. The xcpro is pretty much cutting edge. And, also pretty new, with many programming options to accommodate all charging situations and battery types. I was excited to see Oliver adopt newer tech. Hopefully, it will all work out shortly.

I bought my Hondas from Northern Tool and the new 2200's have the rubber flap covering the outlets and are bluetooth. It is a cool feature that you can see how much the AC draws when it cycles and as you turn things off and on. I purchased both the 2200 and the companion. I know it was over kill but having 2 has already been handy when power outages affected myself and my neighbors. I was able to loan one to him and having 2 kids with families I already see when one might turn up missing and I will have to track it down. Northern Tool shipped right t my house. I just went to their website and Northern tool has them available .

I don’t know much RV electrical but I’m having to learn. I don’t have much choice living in a very remote location. I added the “FXC Control App” to my phone that can be obtained from the Google Play store or the iOS App Store. This app is specifically for the Xantrex remote to view and monitor and configure the remote. I didn’t know this app existed until I had exhausted all other attempts to find out why my Xantrex was always in a “bypass” mode, never charging the batteries. I thought there has got to be something like a software issue. If one goes to the Xantrex website and looks at the product menu, finds the Xantrex Freedom remote and looks at that page you will see that they mention this application for the Xantrex remote. It might be worth a look and maybe by working with someone at Xantrex they may be of better guidance on using the app. In my case, I was desperate as I needed the lithium batteries charged enough to get the water pump to work so I could winterize before this polar vortex dipping into Texas and it was the weekend. I stuck my neck out and tried the app and out of dumb luck I seemed to have made the right parameter change. I’d recommend calling Xantrex in the future if possible. Sorry for the long diatribe.

Since I do not believe you can open my prior image, here is another:

Parkworld 691968C Shore Power Adapter Cord Household 15A Male 5-15P to L5-30R RV:Camper:Marine 30A F.webarchive This is the cord we bought on Amazon. It was recommended on this forum! Since we do not yet have our Oliver ("R-Villa") which is to be picked up on May 17, I cannot confirm is the same size. However, since this was recommended here, and looks the same as my previous trailer's 30 amp connection, I am confident it will work. I bought the Honda here in Morton, IL, months ago when they were on the shelf at our local construction supply company. That company always gives stellar service; important to me at the time. Then I installed the Hutch Mountain LP conversion myself, which negated the Honda warranty! So much for their stellar service! Oh, well, they are nice guys, and prefer to purchase locally as much as possible. And yes, it does have the flap cover, which I was holding up with the screwdriver in the previous photo.

Believe the RV market is different for Oliver Travel Trailers. When we first learned about Oliver Travel Trailers, Oliver was not building campers due to an economic slowdown. We wanted one when they were not being built and when Oliver started building the LE2 during 2015 and we wanted an LE2 eventually buying a used LE2 during 2016. We keep Ollie in good condition and it has appreciated! Even with higher fuel prices believe Oliver Travel Trailers will continue to be in demand. Since we love camping and still have plenty of places to visit and enjoy, not only is our Ollie a vehicle to explore new places, it's also an investment that appreciates.

Here are some pictures of the various things we've been sharing ideas on in this post... First, a boring picture of the 6" vent I put in for the "bilge fan" under the front dinette seat. Again, I wanted a way to move conditioned cabin air throughout the basement (hot or cold) that was independent of the furnace fan - which cannot be run without heat anyhow. And the fan itself. You have permission to laugh at the bungee cord installation. It's temporary for now until I find a good way to mount it permanently. Ugly but it is working! 😉 Here's the remote controller for the smart fan. I "hid" it behind the blind sort of. It's not pretty either but it has a temperature sensor and all kinds of ways to program the fan for various situations. Also, no drilling or screws unless absolutely necessary - and it isn't necessary for this as I used 3M two sided tape and just ran the sensor wires through the hatch. Now onto the other part of the "all electric" backup heat solutions... Here's the heat cable tie wrapped to the backflow check valves. Tough to see, but the cable is 4' long so runs 2' on each line - with the cable touching each backflow check valve. This is similar to putting a pump or two of antifreeze into each port when winterizing (I hope). You can see the wires leading to the cable running in the "tray" along the black/gray drain pipe on the left (1st pic above). In the next pic, here's the connection I made to the 12V fuse box (annotated by the arrows) and the negative bus bar (yellow lines). I used lucky terminal number 13 on the fuse box and had to share a connection on the negative bus bar (I know, not a good practice, but OTT already had done it once so what does doing it twice hurt?). I'll put a switch in someday (maybe) - for now it's just put the fuse in if you want the heat cable on, take the fuse out if you want it off. Side note: That thing wrapped in the yoga mat is the end of my HVAC line that runs on the street side. If you look closely, you can see 2 red automotive vacuum hoses coming out of the end and going under the dinette floor. This is how I'm getting some heated air to the front street side from the furnace. I'll share this picture below mainly so you can all laugh at the hole I created in my ductwork below the battery box (I used a screwdriver - LOL). Nowhere near as "sexy" as @Minnesota Oli's beautiful drilled hole! Paul, I may have to put in an order for that part so I can upgrade my solution someday! 🙂 The wire for the heat cable is running right underneath the hvac line in the picture. Last but not least, I put some insulation around the cable, pipes and valves before replacing the floor to help keep the heat where it is supposed to be. You can also see my temp/humidity sensorpush tucked beside the line as well as the temperature probe from the smart fan tucked into and up against the check valve itself (for now I want a really accurate reading of the pipe temp). You are all welcome to laugh again - see the hole in the ductwork right above? Yep, my screwdriver got busy there too in order to direct some heat at the valves and plumbing in that area. 🙂 Heat cable test - not super cold out, but it is working for sure. Turned on the heat cable at 4:30 AM this morning.

No problem at all. I ordered 4 units (feet) of the cable, which is item No. K650016 and 1 termination kit, which is item No. K651001. I used some heat shrink tubing that I had as well to do an even better job on the cable termination and wiring ends. I also used a 3 amp fuse and 14 gauge red wire for positive and yellow wire for the negative connections. Oh, and some corrugated, split wire loom tubing to protect the wires (same stuff OTT uses everywhere on the wiring). Oh, and the cable turned out beautiful. I carried it around and showed it to my wife and my son and the pets I was so proud. I just forgot to take a picture of it before I wrapped it around the check valves and tie wrapped it in. 😀

I have stumbled upon something while doing my humidity and temperature testing that should be of interest to those with the xantrex 3000 getting the occasionally persistent [20] error. First, my Xantrex remote had been working for well over a week. On the 14th, I purposely discharged my battery down to 60% and then back up to 80%. When I got to 80% I tripped the cutoff switch between the Xantrex and the batteries to stop the charging. That immediately caused the [20] error. I left it with the [20] error because I didn't know how to make it go away and it hasn't seemed to cause any problems. Well, I noticed this "sawtooth pattern" after looking at the data - I've isolated the street side basement (data visualization works again!!!) and you can see the sawtooth after the charging event: That sawtooth indicates the inverter fan is turning on and off (every 5-7 minutes in fact if I look at the detailed data points). I unplugged the remote at the inverter and the inverter continued to cycle the fan on and off even without the remote. I cut power to the inverter and turned it back on without the remote and the inverter went back to "normal" - working fine without cycling the fan. I then plugged the remote back in and it was working fine again too. Yesterday I repeated this sequence and got the exact same results. The [20] error came on after cutting off the battery from the inverter, the fan began to cycle every 5-7 minutes again, and I was able to correct and fix things by going through the exact same steps. My concern is the fan cycling - that can't be "good" for the inverter and could cause premature wear on the components. I've left my remote disconnected for now so that this can't happen again until we have a fix or an explanation. Who knows what else may be going on with the inverter we may not see. I'll update my OTT service ticket and call Xantrex today with this new information. I'll report back later on any new information.

I found Oliver trailers sometime during 2017 - I was seriously considering a class C 4wd - of the Elkhart clan. After much consternation - it finally jelled in my mind - the trailer was the more flexible platform - with a 4wd TV. I toured the Oliver factory - visited Oliver at least twice before purchase - and we took Ollie home July 2018. As someone with decades of manufacturing experience - I recognized Oliver was perhaps at the top of the heap in RV manufacturing - but just decent -in the whole. Has my ownership experience been perfect, great, good, met my expectations, or worse. Since I began reading this forum - a constant reoccurring theme has been the various questions, concerns, and praise for the OLIVER quality level - and in a few threads - some - second guessing the purchase altogether. Personal consternation over real or perceived quality issues that arise within days, weeks- or months of delivery. And too their credit - forum members are always eager to help - often with personal experience on an issue. We see repeat issues, we see obvious defective build issues, we see a very responsive service group and we see owner mods that make Ollie better, and we see a community of like minded caring Oliver Owners - a preponderance of them with previous RV experience - or - who are handy with tools, and repair procedures - and have no problem fixing many of the minor things that can go wrong with RV ownership. Lets face it - The modern Oliver RV is a complicated multi system RV that relies on its many parts to work correctly - together- to deliver the experience a new owner expects. As good as the forum experience aids and supports the Oliver brand - when your Ollie let you down - soon after writing that check - good intentions don't help much. So what is a reasonable, realistic customer expectation level for the new Oliver owner at purchase. Is it acceptable to have any of the systems inoperative - at delivery- or within days. Is it ok for a system to be less than fully installed. Is it ok for the delivery day process to be less than top shelf. Is it ok that the service department is relied upon to carry the day - too often. Or, does knowing RV's are historically hit and miss on the quality front, and with Oliver's reputation in mind, we look past the initial disappointment. It's not a Toyota after all. (I couldn't resist poking) Your opinions - your feedback - are important - here - and to me - I can be very critical on the subject - but I attempt to temper my comments - and expectations, due to my time in the trenches of manufacturing hell. I believe Oliver is connected to this forum - as it is a feedback loop, and an important first hand accounting. I also believe - we owe it to ourselves, a personal responsibility - to educate and learn about our purchase - and try to understand the issue at hand. But where does the line of responsibility begin and end. You put $$ down, eagerly waited months, happy anticipation for delivery day, and you fully expect your high dollar purchase will be 100% perfect - right? Well - at least be fully usable. So, after 2.5 years of med/heavy use, at least 4 trips to Oliver service for R n R, a few phone calls for info on this or that, does my experience meet my expatiation. Well - mostly - because I expected less than perfect. I understood the Oliver was only as good as its components and the build process - itself. And I inform and educate myself on the product, as best as I can. Yea Oliver is better than SOB, so what, I bought an Oliver, Would I buy my Oliver again. Probably. But if I was a normal ordinary customer - new to the RV world, my view may be less generous. I don't bleed Oliver, that is Scotts job, but I do care about the brand and how customers feel about their purchase - as I represent Oliver with my purchase and continued use. It is much more pleasant to promote than to defend. So, for those of you out there with less than favorable experiences - hang in there - Oliver will get it right, for the satisfied of you, happy trails, and for the rest of us, well - we're never satisfied anyways - well - not for long. 🙄 RB OFD

Thanks for the Air Bag tip. I think it's good to consider. In our case we are only mounting like Topgun2 did on the driver side. By the way, I've driven about 150 miles now with no interference issues from the installation of the USB charger port into that dash tray. Craig

This is a recent issue that several people have been seeing on the Xantrex Inverter. We have already been in contact with Xantrex to determine what is causing this issue as replacing the remote or inverter does not resolve the issue. At this time Xantrex believes it to be a software issue and they are working on a firmware update. I currently do not have any other information as we are waiting on Xantrex to complete the firmware update, test to ensure it does resolve the issue and then communicate to us and other service centers on how they plan to implement this new software update. Anyone that is having this issue, if you haven't already, I would recommend submitting a service ticket so we know who to contact once we have more information. Until the issue is resolved you can still use the inverter by turning it off and on at the main panel. The inverter is located under the driver side bed and the main panel screen looks just like the remote. Simply press the round button to turn the inverter on for powering the 120v systems with battery power. You do not have to turn this on when connected to shore power. You can submit a service ticket at: Service Ticketing System

After most of the 6” we got on Monday melted yesterday it has started again, big flakes. Might get another 6” today. Normal in a lot of places but record setting here in San Antonio!