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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/2021 in all areas

  1. Sorry to hear about the damage. With a freeze like that, any rigid plastic or metal connections, fittings & fixtures are at risk. The PEX tubing itself usually can withstand a bit of expansion from the freezing water, but any connections at either end can be damaged. You may want to remove the recessed towel holder on the front of the bathroom vanity to check any of those hoses and faucet connections. As BoB said, it’ll be a process of elimination with all the faucets, fixtures and connections, inside and outside the trailer, especially the outside shower faucet and outside water connections. A pain in the a**, but the nice thing about the Oliver is that a water leak won’t cause any structural damage like the SOB trailers with wooden subfloors and framing. If you do have a leak you will see water dripping out of the little chrome scuppers on the underside of the hull at the front and back.
    3 points
  2. A big congrats to Hull 735! Good luck on your adventures. FYI: Comparison chart Lithionics and Battle Born We will be picking up our Elite l this month, hopefully with lithium batteries. We purchased the Solar Package and specifically asked for the batteries. At the time, we were thinking Battle Born but after the above info it looks like it may be Lithionics. We will be glad to get either one during this pandemic since supplies can easily be depleted. Although we are not familiar with Lithionics we are impress with the effort Oliver makes to bring us the best products available for the price range. We checked out a few websites and I thought others may want to see the comparison chart below. We were researching the temperature range of the batteries. My concern is the hot Vegas temperatures in the summer. My husband is not so worried. Audrey & Vincent
    2 points
  3. I also am a avid bike ridder. I agree with John's comments: I have purchased the rear receiver from Oliver and will be installing it myself. I plan to use a bike rack on the back of my Oliver. I will be using a tarp to cover the bikes, as I expect the back of the Ollie to accumulate a lot of dust and dirt, which I do not want on the bike, chain and gears. (I do not want to put a roof rack on my pick-up) TPaulE, I have a couple of alternates to your idea. 1. Roof rack on your TV. 2. Bike rack mounted on the front of your TV 3. If you really want to put the bikes inside, I would use 2" PVC tubing to build your bike rack which could be attached to the sides of the beds so the rack does not move. (not recommended) I built a PVC rack to put in the back of my pickup truck and it works very well. Check out Utube for a video of building this type of PVC bike rack.
    2 points
  4. We run an Airbnb down by Big Bend National Park in Terlingua TX. We have an RV site on our compound and are offering 2 nights free (we normally charge $45/night) if anyone with an Oliver Trailer Elite II would like to visit Big Bend and Big Bend State Park (we are located between the Parks); we would love to have you come stay with us. Our email is rifephotography@aol.com and text is 970-879-7838. Thanks, Sue and Joe Rife
    1 point
  5. This looks interesting because the footprint is small:
    1 point
  6. I have the Xantrex remote with Bluetooth in the top photo installed by Oliver in my 2021 Elite II delivered last month.
    1 point
  7. $1280 was my quote for Sunbrella. I passed. Wax on, Wax off.
    1 point
  8. I don't have any covers that are weathermax on either boat. We always specify Sunbrella, in the color dubonnet, for the sailboat, navy for the power boat. Both colors hold up really well, block uv, breathe well, and last. So, less mildew, etc, on sails, etc. But chafe points with Sunbrella have to be reinforced. I've already had to take the mainsail cover in for a lot of reinforcement, three years in. That said, last cover lasted maybe 15 to 18 years? With proper reinforcement. The dinghy cover may, or may not, be weathermax. We didn't specify, but it feels like it. It's much lighter, and at 4 years, is doing fine. It's a very different "feel" or "hand" than Sunbrella. We bought a cover online, instead of using our regular guy. It's just a dinghy, doesn't always sit outside, after all. Weathermax isn't a new fabric. I suspect Calmark did a LOT of research before making the switch. From my research, it's a bit lighter than Sunbrella (14 or 15 per cent), more abrasion resistant, maybe more waterproof in the long haul. UV resistance is dependent on color. My concern, in Florida, is breathability, where I'm sure Sunbrella wins. From what I've read, weathermax 80 is more stain resistant. But, harder to sew. Both are solution dyed, meaning the yarns have color, before they ever becomes fabric. I look for this, even for patio chair cushions. Tradeoffs everywhere. Based on my experience with marine cover prices, Calmark is actually, sadly, kind of a bargain. It takes a LOT of fabric to cover an Oliver. And, a really big factor is labor, not fabric. And, of course, user satisfaction, in the long run. For your reading enjoyment: https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/functional-fabrics I do appreciate the look back, though. We just had a new cover made for the cockpit of the power boat. When it comes time for the bow area cover, I'll have another look.
    1 point
  9. Yes, we have the Calmark cover. Calmark does have the pattern for the Elite II, with a zipper opening to allow access to the door. Very happy with it. But it’s not cheap, and it’s a huge, heavy cover. It takes two of us to get it up and over the Oliver. Prices have probably gone up a bit since we bought ours but you will be at around $1,000, maybe more, with shipping costs. It’s done well through two winters so far, though I do wish it had zippered or Velcro closure panels for access to the battery compartment and the shore power connection.
    1 point
  10. For a battery that advertises "unlimited mounting possibilities", you'd think you could fit more than zero in the LE2 battery tray (it's 23" long and the battery tray is 21"). It might be more easily fit within the hull space I suppose, somewhere. Or perhaps it would work in an LE1. The other battery they announced, the BB8D - you could fit one of those in the Ollie 2 tray, so maybe a good solution for an LE1, if it fits. For LE2 owners though, it's $100 more expensive than buying three of their standard 100Ah batteries, for 30 less Ah, so maybe not a good idea unless you really want to simplify your battery box. So, I think these may be solutions for someone trying to do something unusual, but at least for LE2 owners, not practical for a typical battery swap. It's an interesting case though - looks like it may be user serviceable.
    1 point
  11. A couple of years ago I had to open up the bathroom faucet. There was two or three clumps of calcium like particles. They were sitting on the ports of the single lever cartridge. Cleaned them off and no problems since. The lucky part was we were at the Oliver Rally and Richie had the sealant and put the towel bar back on the vanity for me. I thought it was at the end of the hoses. If I had opened the faucet first, I wouldn't have opened the vanity. Not all water is as clear as in Maine. A filter is hooked up every time, even if just for one day...
    1 point
  12. Wow, sorry for your problems. It stinks for sure. Were it me - I would repair what I know to be an issue, pressurize the system, and keep looking for water. Under pressure the leaks should be more evident. However, if any of the drain pipes cracked, that may be harder to detect.. Process of elimination, no easy answer it seems. Good luck. RB I would wager the two inlet connection port are history. 😬
    1 point
  13. Camco seems to provide decent products. I have used the Camco blue water filter for years (pre Oliver). I carried the camco black/gray water drain hose support, but never needed to, or wanted to, use it. The power assessor, polarity and voltage that RB suggests is a good product. I am cheap, so use a $6 one from Fry's - when they were open (Radio Shack or other electronics place should have one) and use a Harbor Freight model that does the job for about $5. I have a separate volt meter that I put in, and will put in, the electrical system. The test device is to make sure that the pedestal was wired properly, is still wired properly, and that the correct voltage is being supplied. Not good to accidentally plug into 240 volts, or to find that there is a floating neutral that just happened which could cause fires, equipment damage, electrical shock and or stray current that would not be controlled by the circuit breaker or GFCI. I use them for work, along with other electrical circuitry test equipment. The ones I have are 15 amp, so you might need an adapter. Does anyone use a 30 amp tester? You might also eventually get an AFCI - Arc FAult Circuit Interrupter that you would plug your power cable into. The circuit breaker will not protect against an arc event. Eventually have a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter that you will need once every other year, but when you need it, that would be the only way to get power. Again, Camco sells an adapter. I also use a water pressure regulator, the same one listed here. Camco products are available at Walmart (or they were a few years ago. Haven't checked in a while). The only reason I specifically go into a WalMart is for camping supplies. The last time I was in the local WalMart for camping/trailer/RV equipment they had a full aisle of products. You can find things that you didn't know you needed. One of my favorite stores, Tractor Supply, also has trailer equipment. I will leave for Oliver in less than 2 weeks to pick up my Elite I. It will hopefully be a happy St. Patrick's Day and evening in Crockett SP. John
    1 point
  14. Some of you have had questions about a recent announcement that there will be a recall of some Cooper tires. We have contacted our distributor and are happy to confirm that the size of tires included on both the Legacy Elite and Legacy Elite II are not included in Cooper's recall. We hope this information helps put you at ease!
    1 point
  15. Full Disclosure - I am a NEWBIE RV owner. I have owned our Ollie (Elite 1) for less than a month. With that said, I just recently had all of the questions you listed above and here are my thoughts. I hope this helps, but there are experienced contributors to this forum who generously share their knowledge. I am planning on getting the Andersen ultimate trailer gear package for leveling, chocking and pads for stabilizer jacks. Would I need anything else? The Andersen's are easy to use. I also got these stabilizer blocks and these chocks. I have read that a water filter is a good idea? Do you have suggestions for a water filter. I got this filter and I also got this water pressure regulator I have also read that you should use a polarity and voltage tester to make sure you have safe power at campgrounds? Suggestions for one of those. I do not yet have one of these, but I am considering it. I understand you get a 30 to 15 amp converter plug with the trailer. Would you ever need a 50 to 30 amp converter plug? In looking at some campgrounds it looks like if they have 50 amp service they also have 30 amp service. I got this 30A female to 15A male adapter and a 12 gauge extension cord. I do not yet have a 50A to 30A adapter. We are getting a rear hitch on the back of the trailer for a bike rack. I have been looking at various models of that but many of them specifically say not for use on back of an RV or trailer. Does someone have suggestions of a bike rack for 2 bikes? I also got the rear hitch, but haven't put a bike rack on it yet. I have read that some campgrounds require a sewer hose support. Suggestions for one of those. I did the compost option. I drain gray waste through a garden hose with one of these with no hose support I did print off a list of tools, fuses and other things you should have. Is there any other things we should be thinking about getting? The water hose supplied by Oliver is very stiff and hard to use. I replaced with a Zero G hose
    1 point
  16. "I'd like to buy a vowel please Pat". Black tank monitor shows "sht"? Seems appropriate to me. Sorry, I know this is zero help to SherMica and not trying to poke fun at her issues, but I just couldn't resist.
    1 point
  17. Here’s a picture of the Lithonics battery. Oliver installs three 130 amp hour Lithonics batteries now instead of the two LifeBlue200s.
    1 point
  18. Just be very aware that your receiver is a whole lot weaker than a steel one of the same wall thickness. Expect cracking in the corners and lots of wear inside. Additionally, the wall thickness at the grooves for the retaining ubolts is now very small. It is highly likely to break there! I think it is a most dangerous modification! I suggest that you replace it with a steel receiver ASAP. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  19. I think that Oliver is now using two Lithionics 130 amp-hour lithium ion batteries in the LE1, for a total of 260 AH (in the LE2, three 130 AH batteries for 390 AH total) as part of the lithium package. The lithionics batteries have a charging range of 32°F to 113°F, and a discharge temperature range of -4°F to 113°F. Acceptable temperature ranges for long-term storage are a bit more constrained (https://lithionicsbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Lithionics-Battery-Storage-Procedure.pdf). The batteries can handle a wider range of temperature when in use (e.g., when traveling) than in long-term storage. My understanding (from what I've read; we do not have our trailer yet) is that you can draw from the batteries below freezing, but charging them requires heating below 32°F. If charging with solar, then all solar gain goes first to the 12V heating system and any excess goes to charging the battery.
    1 point
  20. And two for the celebration!! Good adjustment. Never seen the bottle capping system on spirits before - just my beer creations. Nice. I've toted bikes all over most of the USA - hanging off the rear of the Ollie. It can be a dirty, destructive environment. I moved my more expensive and "fragile" bike to under the topper shell of the truck - the more robust MTB's - fare fine in the muck of the Ollies contrails. I have threatened to make a waterproof cover that fits two and is easily installed and removed. However, it is on the list, the list, somewhere, on a list. RB Edit - I am sure the new Ollie design is fine for intended purposes, I firmly believe the old, original design, is much more robust., and pliant to my - not intended uses.
    1 point
  21. So I pick up my Ollie in April and hate that they only offer the the 1 1/4 inch hitch and because of that it wasn't added to our order. Additionally I really didn't like how the bikes traveled on the back of my Casita when I had it as they collected dirt and bounced a lot creating a lot of rub marks and even once having damage to bike rack. So I have on order the twin bed version and plan on building something that will hold the bikes between the beds during travel similar to what people build in the vans. My plan is to make a bike rack using 1/2 inch sheet of Baltic birch plywood and cutting it down to the width of the floor and attaching 2-3 Rockymounts van mounts. So I need a little help to get this done and that is a few measurements between the twin beds. I will post pictures when I am done. Measurements needed 1. Width of the flooring between the two beds? 2. Width between two twin beds? 3. Height from floor to the bottom of the bed?
    0 points
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