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We thought we would share a letter we sent to Oliver. Please excuse the formatting as it was originally written in Word. Keep in mind, these are only our opinions: We are the owners of a 2019 Oliver Elite II, hull #468. Since our first camping trip in October of 2019, we have taken 15 trips, camped approximately 100 days and have traveled over 16,000 miles. We love our trailer and are very happy with it. We would not trade it for any other RV on the market today but, we think there is room for improvement. During our trips, we have extensively discussed what we like and what we would change, if we had the opportunity to design our ultimate Oliver Travel Trailer. We wanted to share our thoughts with you in a hope to influence any future improvements or new trailers you produce. Our suggestions/ideas for the existing Elite II: - Front Door o Molded fiberglass door, consistent with the quality of the rest of the trailer hull - Windows o Bigger - As big as possible. The more light the better o Acrylic – Allowing for more clear view, better ventilation, better insulation (no exposed metal frame transferring heat or cold), use while raining o Additional window over the kitchen counter – A dark area of the trailer - Holding tanks o Bigger all the way around – More fully utilize the open inter-hull space - HVAC o Houghton AC – Existing AC is way too loud o Trauma Aqua Go Comfort Plus – Water savings with recirculating hot water o Trauma Vario Heat furnace – Quieter and more efficient o MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome in bathroom – Appears to be quieter better quality - Higher density seating cushions - Electric Option to include o 12V DC Danfoss compressor refrigerator o Induction cooktop - Shunt based battery monitor - Make the fresh water drain larger to allow the tank to drain in a reasonable amount of time and make the valve more easily accessed or electric - Include an easily accessed battery disconnect - Rotate the cooktop top 90 degrees to its original position. We understand the reason it was rotated but it is not safe. I have burned the hair off of the back of my hand a number of times because, you are forced to reach over the burner to light it - Nightstand top at or below mattress height – Present height closes in sleeping area and causes half of the twin bed floor plan owners (Forum or Facebook survey results) to sleep with their heads toward the front of the trailer, due to the confined area at the rear of the trailer - Change the color/temperature of the lights in the upper cabinets to match the rest of the lights - A standard (external) radio antenna that really works - One more towel rack in the bathroom - Higher quality outdoor shower or delete the option – Not to the standard of the rest of the trailer Ideas for the Oliver Elite II2 /Elite III - Any or all of the above which apply - More room for a couple with the ability to sleep four – Would really expand the demographic – Families and Grandparents who want to take Grandchildren camping - 8’ wide, 2’ to 3’ longer and a 2” to 3” increase in interior height to accommodate the following: o Wider and taller molded fiberglass front door with transparent window and window covering o Full height dry bath o Four seat dinette that converts into a bed for two o Approximately 80” x 34” (Airstream sized) twin beds to accommodate larger people o Walk around queen bed option – Not for us but it is the most common RV bed layout o Larger refrigerator installed lifted from the floor – 7 cu. ft. or so o An Oven without losing the great six kitchen drawers o 50+ gallon fresh and grey holding tanks o 25+ gallon black tank o Solar that more closely matches the amp hour capacity of the batteries – 200 watts per 100 amp hours if possible o MPPT solar controller – Current standard and more efficient than PVM controller o Adjustable Torsion axle suspension – Smoother ride and more wheel travel o Disc brakes o Four corner stabilizing/leveling jacks o Onboard drinking water filtration We really like the existing Elite II floor plan and feel the same basic layout could be maintained in a larger foot-print, with many or all of the above suggestions/ideas included. Another floor plan to take a close look at is, the 23FB Twin Globetrotter Airstream. We like the camp side dinette and full-width dry bath but would flip the bath to the front and the beds to the rear. Thank you for your time and consideration and for being such a GREAT company! Carianne and Andrew

Glad you got it figured out! I've got another 25 minutes of work and we'll be headed out for the weekend at a state park about 2 hours away. We'll also be connecting the Blackstone and be enjoying some good food! Cindy

I'm glad to know there's someone else out there who's day can be ruined by lighting temperature. There's really nothing on your list that I disagree with. I wouldn't change the nightstand, personally; but since it just screws on, I could see Oliver offering an option for a shorter unit. It might not be difficult even to retrofit a cool looking cubby out of wood, reusing the existing top. Perhaps that's something @Foy_Mirna might make for someone.

I think it largely comes down to the fabric. I can’t say enough good things about the Recaril fabric that we special ordered for our Carefree awning, as it has far exceeded our expectations. It stays taut and doesn’t pool water in even heavy rains and we don’t even have to slope it to the side for it to do so. So far it’s shown no sign of fading or stretch. It’s unlike the sunbrella fabrics that I’ve had experience with, in that has the look and feel of a very stiff, tightly woven canvas.

We choose the KTT mattresses and are very happy with them. Two years ago we switched our home mattress from a temperpedic to an organic latex mattress and we loved it. Latex is a natural product and environmentally friendly, it doesn’t off gas, it is mold resistant, it is extremely durable ( some research claims it will last 20+ years), and it is dust and mite resistant, and very supportive. I have severe allergies and I did do extensive research on latex mattresses. My husband says he sleeps better in the Oliver than he does at home!

That might have been it or I did not have Blackstone connector tight enough to push in internal hose pin, or I'm a moron and did not wait long enough. "We're cooking with Grape seed oil now". I suppose Crisco sounds better but, yuck.

I think this was the first or second item on my list, when Oliver asked for suggestions on the initial plans for the II. I can't find much to add to your list, with the exception of looking for opportunities for weight reduction, especially if the next model is larger . Maybe metal drawers like Ikea, instead of the very heavy (though wonderful) wood drawers. Many of the appliance upgrades you mentioned (houghton ac, dc fridge, etc.) also lighten the load. Alde or another brand quiet and efficient hydronic heat system would be a really nice option, as would the Vario. Both are quite expensive, but I think a lot if people would opt for the additional comfort . I spoke with the manager at Truma Lakeland when the vario was first introduced in the US. It would be a fairly simple option to offer. I think he said changing my Suburban out for a Vario would only take three orcfour hours, and would fit in the same space.

georgelewisray, thanks for the detailed info on the GG750. I think the problem is with the fabric. It was partly sunny with scattered clouds on delivery day when we deployed our awning. Did not notice any wrinkles or creases then. The issue appeared yesterday under hot blistering sun. The fabric is black and I believe it sagged from the heat causing slack when rolling it back up. Cool out this morning with cloud cover (thunderstorms last night). I deployed the awning and now that the fabric is cool, when I retracted it the creasing was minimal. Much much better than when it was hot. Given that the primary function of the product is a sunshade, it seems that a fabric that does not sag under its own weight when it get hot may have been a better choice. Minor annoyance that is of no urgency, but I will investigate fabric options.

Overland, thanks for the helpful tips on attaching photos. You were spot on with your assumptions about my phone and laptop (iPhone and MacBook). I think I will check and see if Recaril is available for my model of awning. Sounds like good stuff.

Elite II #688 also has the Lithium package with the Xantrex XC Pro 3000. I also use #24 (Charger Current) and #28 (AC Breaker for Load Share) occasionally to match and manage power better as described above. However, setting #26 is the best thing since sliced bread! I use #26 (Charger Ignition Control) to manage my Lithium charging the most (by far). Since there is no ignition control in a travel trailer, this switch can be used to turn the charger "off" and "on" via the software while you are using the inverter functions. When we are on shore power I don't want the batteries always topped off at 100% (not good for Lithium longevity), so I turn the charger off by toggling #26 to prevent the charger from holding them at 100%. This switch is an arm-saver since you don't have to manually reach under the street side bed and trip (or reset) the breaker between the inverter and battery.

I talked about this, in another thread. Rv awnings are principally designed only for shade, not rain. The old school manual awnings can handle some light to moderate rain, but even those stretch over time. We stretched ours, an older dometic made by fiamma, manual awning, using it in the rain. . I take full responsibility. We replaced it three or four years ago. Because the manual awnings can achieve more pitch to spill the water, we still use ours in light to moderate rain. I know it may suffer the same stretch as the old one. And, I'll live with the consequences if/when it does . I wouldn't do that with an electric awning. The rvs we deliver to Alaska have electric awnings. We Always roll it in if it rains .

And if Tractor Supply doesn’t have it go next door to Walmart!

Nice day but it is time. We are heading home had three routes to choose from but the one through KC won. Hard to believe I miss my gardens and all that mowing- but I do RB

Right down the road from the plant. Tractor supply they will have what you need.

Elite II #751, Lithium-Solar Setup of Xantrex: XC Pro 3000 ( probably same for 2000 ), - I am using the Xantrex Bluetooth app on iPhone. ( launch app and ?dbl/long press the top Botton 'ESC' till bars under L&R #'s on remote display flash, then iPhone Bluetooth pairs with Xantrex remote >> you are off to the races. ) - Owners Manual: pp71 'SETTINGS' ::: Numbers: 1-14, 20-24, 26-28, 99. ( can be changed either with the remote wall mount display or iPhone Xantrex app ) Of particular Interest me are: ( purpose is to limit the amount power the Xantrex draws from external power sources ) #24 Charger Current 5-150 Amp - ( The current setting value can be adjusted by 5A increments. ) #28 AC Input Breaker for Load Share 5-50 Amp - ( The load share feature prioritizes the AC load by reducing the charge current in order to maintain the total input current to less than the load share setting. ) ************************************************************************* We sometimes sit at end of a LONGgggg Smallll extension cord. #24 - Charger current setting at a lower value will prevent the Xantrex trying to draw 1800Watts (12V x 150Amp) thru a tiny long cord. #28 - AC Breaker for Load Share: I set this to 13 Amp when running a Honda 2000 EU generator and it prevented wild voltage swings and red overload light flashing. >>>> My thought is that these features are valuable and helpful but are implemented and documented, . . . . . not as well as they might be. Some Older Xantrex and some current Victron inverter-chargers have a feature called 'Generator Support' which is easy to understand . . . when a generator is small or a shore power cord has low voltage or is long and small it balances the various energy input sources dynamically so as not to overdraw a weak source. In consumer grade equipment this is very much a new computer age type function. . . . . To me this is the Holy Grail in inverter-charger functionality. This Xantrex XC Pro achieves some of this functionality but the way it is described/implemented it leaves me a bit confused. . . . . . UPDATE: 6/18/21 after experiments Seems apparent that Xantrex XC Pro 2000 & 3000 are not able to provide what I think will soon be the 'new normal' for inverter-chargers, that is what sometimes is called "Generator Support". A small generator contributes what power it has available and the inverter uses that power and adds power from batteries as needed to supply demand. That is in stark contrast to a DUMB . . . 'switch to the grid totally' when AC is sensed with no judgment about the capability of the AC source. The Xantrex XC Pro can modulate charging current a bit to help prevent overload of a 'GRID' source, but when Xantrex XC Pro is 'ON THE GRID' , i.e. an AC is available, it is totally dumb about judging the capability of the AC source. EXAMPLE: If the Honda 2000EU is running providing 'GRID Power' and the HVAC is running I can adjust parameters #24,#28 and the generator is then operating within its capabilities and not overwhelmed by HVAC + Battery Charging . HOWEVER, as soon as I turn on the HotWater pot the generator is overwhelmed with 21Amp draw for HVAC & HotPot. A Victron of some of the other older big Xantrex would sense that the generator was being overwhelmed and allowed the battery-inverter to supply demand and the limited generator to help as much a possible but not choke on the LARGE POWER DEMAND.

We had looked at Black Series before deciding on Oliver but the dealer in Denver stopped carrying them due to quality issues. That plus seeing them in person was enough to make up our mind. Glad to be sitting where we are and awaiting our new Elite II in September.

I decided to brighten up the area behind the sink by adding a nice backsplash in a brushed steel finish. I bought the backsplash at Menards but they are available on Amazon. They come in a variety of finishes. I used two packs. The beauty was in the peel and stick feature. They are about a foot long and can be cut with a jig saw.. Although I used a dremel cutoff wheel which worked fabulous. I also used a sanding tip on the dremel to finish the edges nicely. The area to the left of the sink was tricky and slightly uneven so I used a good glue and leveled that area first. I plan to seal with clear silicone on the top and bottom edges. I'm pleased with the result!

John, You really started something by sending me the pictures of the Black Series independent suspension several years ago. After buying one, I started a business selling the Australian McHitch articulating trailer hitches, where I am now the exclusive US distributor. I think I mentioned all of this to you before, but I'm still amazed at what an influence you had on me! Sheesh. The Black Series (BS) trailers are basically a very good design that is rugged and capable, while being extremely comfortable inside. But the company has quality control issues and always has. And on top of that, they are very difficult to deal with. I have done a lot of work on mine to fix a lot of things that were either not assembled correctly, or were just poor quality to begin with. Brakes, wheel bearings, the breakaway system, inverter, poor wiring, bad wheel alignment, shocks, and a host of nagging little things that should have been better. But some of it is me, as I will work to fine tune things that can be made better. Now, BS seems to be cheapening them by cutting corners with the upholstery, and removing interior lights, while using no name heaters and inverters that have no parts availability at all. All the while being very arrogant and unwilling to improve their clumsy workmanship. Ours sold for 20% more than we paid for it! Which reimbursed me for the original sales tax, the licensing and insurance for two years, all of the improvements I made and most of the fuel purchased to pull it 17,000 miles! This market is crazy! Mine was dialed in and a very good trailer with proven reliability and proven desert performance. But, as mentioned in my previous post, it is heavy and complicated. I decided that something lighter and easier to pull, with a better galley, much better cold weather performance, and much higher build quality, was what I wanted. The Xplore just seems like a much easier trailer to use and tow, that will be more fun and less trouble overall. I just want to use it and not redesign it. I want to go in the winter with no worry about freezing, which has always been a problem wit the HQ19. The Xplore is designed to be used down to 40 below in Wisconsin winters. That means it will be excellent in the summer too, and very easy to keep cool. The suspension can raise or lower 8" for highway travel, sneaking into the garage, or exploring rocky roads. This does not affect the suspension travel as it is a torsion system. The outer tube of the torsion axle is tucked up into the frame, and it is rotated to adjust the ride height with a hydraulic pump, cylinders and levers. It works with a remote similar to a garage door remote, on the keychain, that can be activated from the driver's seat while moving or stopped. The tires are 33 X 10.5 X 15 Maxxis. They can be aired way down for sand or trail as needed. The frame is a very nice powder coated 2" X 6" steel box structural tube design with a perimeter frame that can be jacked up anywhere along its length and protects the body from rocks. No pipes or tanks are below the frame and it has steel skid plates under the tanks. Ducted heat also has ducts that run to the tanks for freeze protection. Roof is arched, cannot collect water, and is designed for foot traffic. Roof is R24, walls R13 and floor R11. The body structure is aluminum frames with Crane Noble fiberglass panels inside and out. It has a 10 cu ft fridge that is compressor driven, not absorption. 480 AH of lithium batteries inside where the cold will not bother them, 380 watts of solar with MPPT charge controller, full battery status monitoring and 2,000 watt inverter. Built in air compressor. Beautiful wood cabinets with locking latches that cannot open while driving, Corian countertop, three burner stove with oven, vent hood, T and G varnished knotty pine ceiling, dry flush toilet with no black tank, a dry bath with large shower and full headroom of 6' 5" throughout. The V nose allows this. So, we'll be back on the road pretty soon. Still hoping to crash the Oliver rally next year. And we'll be traveling this winter too, as long as we can avoid snow storms. Take care, John (Raspy)

Any thoughts about Harvest Host acquiring Boondockers Welcome? https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/harvest-hosts-acquires-boondockers-welcome-celebrating-the-companies-shared-love-of-the-rv-community-301309826.html Thoughts? Carl