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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2021 in all areas

  1. @JRKI know I’m going to catch a lot of ribbing for showing this. My Oliver mentor @KountryKampergives me crap about it all of the time for carrying this stuff. But I went over the entire camper and took pictures of the data plates and data labels on everything showing model numbers and serial numbers. I then downloaded AND PRINTED all the manuals for the devices, pieces, parts, etc., from the companies that made them and made sure the manuals were for the serial number range of the devices that I had (especially Dometic, Truma, Atwood stuff) and put them in (2) 3-ring binders because sometimes you do not have the ability to look at the internet. I found that some of the manuals available on the Oliver site were wrong for my camper. In addition to owners manuals you can also find service manuals, parts drawings and installation manuals for a lot of the stuff on your trailer. Look for data plates and labels on devices. Some are not easy to find.
    4 points
  2. I did this mod twice. The first time it was spring (April) and the temps were in the mid 80s. I installed the gutters then took my trailer back to storage. That night we had a norther come through and the temperatures dropped to the 30s and the next morning all the ends of my gutters had flipped up. The second time It did it was summer. Hot. No temperature drop and the gutters have remained in position for a couple of years. Like John, I did all the prep before installing. Positioning before sticking them on. Slowly remove the red backing and stick in place. I left the tape on overnight. I also let it sit in the sun after sticking the gutters. Finished product. I didn’t go down as far as John, but they still work well. We’ve had lots of rain this current trip and the run off from the roof is shunted around the windows.
    2 points
  3. I think the increase in lumber prices is more the result of the huge number of homes destroyed in the recent devastating wildfires, especially those in 2020. On the other hand, there is an increase in the timber supply as, here in Oregon, logs are now being salvaged from those fires. We regularly see log trucks on the roads carrying three log loads - something we haven't seen in a long time. Sadly, there are few mills remaining that can process these large logs into lumber. We are fortunate to have one right in our community. We experienced the same jump in construction materials cost when our home was built shortly after hurricane Katrina. On the other hand, our house framing and interior trim is tight grain, old growth Douglas Fir and the exterior beams and trim old growth Port Orford Cedar - both salvaged from Oregon's 2002 Biscuit Fire.
    2 points
  4. From the pictures sent by Mossey, I am guessing that it could be either the USB 2.0 Standard-A or the USB 3.1 Standard-A. Monday I will call Furrion to see which USB they use, so I do not order the incorrect plug to switch from the Furrion to the memory stick.. I will pass on to all what they say. Thanks Mossey and SeaDawg.
    2 points
  5. I've taken that a step further, and I look for service/ technical manuals, and print those, too. The hardcopy manuals, stored away, have saved our bacon, in remote sites where we have no internet. Great suggestions, @Townesw
    2 points
  6. Prayers and hugs from us, Pennie 🙂 Wendy and John
    2 points
  7. This isn't a full HOW TO install them, there are plenty of videos you can watch. Here's one: ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsEjREGiBj0 ... The most important thing is prep, you must get ALL the old junk and wax off or the adhesive won't stick well. I started with isopropyl alcohol, then followed up with 3M Adhesive Cleaner, with an old clean tee shirt. One big problem I had was with the rounded corners, they would not lie flat. This was indoors at 78 degrees F. I used a heat gun on LOW to warm the plastic, then pressed it down hard, and held it for a few seconds while it cooled. I then warmed the entire length and worked it hard against the gelcoat with a plastic tool and my fingers. The 3M VHB adhesive is heat activated and it set up well, and there are no worries of the gutters lifting, there is no need to tape everything down for days, as some people have done. I am not sure why I waited so long to do this mod, it isn't very difficult. However, I ran out of material and was unable to complete the rear window, so I am waiting on another 10 foot section. When I measured, I did not plan on running the gutters so far down the window frames.... I bought a 25 foot roll. Drat. Large windows 3 @ 76" = 19.0 feet Bathroom window 42" = 3.5 feet Fridge upper vent 21"= 1.75 feet Rear hatch 68" = 5.7 feet TOTAL 359" = 30 feet MINIMUM, buy this: ... Esssentials UW05004 Polar White 50' EZE RV Gutter John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  8. After enjoying our first few years of retirement traveling extensively in a teardrop, we compiled quite a list of "musts" and "wants"...not to mention a few "heck no's"! One thing was for sure, we were tired of crawling in and out, walking to the bathroom in the middle of the night, and making our coffee outside before we were really ready to see and be seen 🙂 We were used to excellent customer service and a high quality product. The struggle was how to upsize our home away from home without scaling down the quality. Then we met a couple in a similar situation who asked us if we'd ever heard of an Oliver. David said, "Sure! They made tractors right?" The next four weeks of our National Park adventures were spent scouring the internet for every video and forum available. We also hoped to see an Oliver along the way. As fate would have it, we pulled into a campsite next to the first Oliver we'd seen. It was love at first sight! We decided to visit the factory on our way home (who doesn't like Tennessee anyway, right?) The tour sealed the deal. David spent his entire career in new model development for the auto industry and liked what he saw. At the end of the tour we placed our order and are happy to say we are "in the queue"! This Oliver will be in our family for a really long time, and we're happy to be joining a new family of like minded travelers. Happy trails!
    1 point
  9. I continued them further down to get the discharge point past the joint where the two window frame pieces meet; to deal with wind driven water coming from the side; and to help anchor those pesky top corners. But really, I mostly needed to divert AC condensation from my Air Command unit, it does not have an internal drain hose, and I rarely encounter rain anyway. Since I have figured out a way to put HEPA furnace filters into my windows, I did not want condensate draining across them and ruining the paper. So the gutter project was killing two stones with one bird….😬 Join Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  10. We did ours on North Carolina, on our camping property. No way to use a heat gun, as we didn't have 110. That was 8 or 10 years ago. Prep is the key. Get all the dirt and wax off. It was fairly warm though, probably July, as the rhododendron was in bloom. We didn't run them far down the window sides. Instead, we angled the last few inches away from the windows. Don't know if that's better or not, but it has worked so far. Got all the windows in our littler Elite from one roll. Edit to add: it was only 7 years ago. I found my post. Even so, 7 years is pretty good. So far, so good.
    1 point
  11. If you have a regular hot water heater, make sure that breaker is off, or go outside and manually switch off the electric heating element. if you have that and the fridge and the converter off…… all that is left is the AC. Unless you are also making popcorn. Basically, start with everything switched OFF, once the gennie is running and stabilized, bring things back online one at a time to see what is happening. The most common problem I have when running off the generator is the fridge, it Auto switches to 110 volts if I forget to turn off that breaker….. I always have the converter turned off, since I typically am charging off solar. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  12. Maybe you could try some self-adhesive d-ring patches, made for kayaks and inflatables, and a short length of parachute cord, or stiff shock cord? One on the bottom of the door, one on the side or bottom of the fridge to make a short retaining cord. I think your bubble on the front could be off a bit. (Ours often is.) Sounds like you may be a bit low in front, if the door swings so rapidly toward the entry. A few inches lift on the nose keeps you well within 6 degrees, btw. We do this, too, as others do. We often lift it a tiny bit on the road side, as well. It's all about what makes you (and the fridge) comfortable. The road/port side is where our heads are, sleeping.
    1 point
  13. Try turning off the battery charger in the power distribution center and see if the generator still pulls that much power. You can easily make a neutral/ground bonding plug with a plug and a short piece of wire. I’ve made two and both work fine.
    1 point
  14. I have a NextBase 422GW dash cam that records G forces, that is supposed to be in case of an accident, it shows how fast you were going, how hard you were braking, whether you made an evasive maneuver, and so on, in three axises. At 145,000 miles my front struts were leaking and the handling was a little squirrelly, so I drove across the worst road around here at a steady 30 mph with the cruise control operating, then immediately after the struts were replaced. Here is the results, one screen capture stacked on top of the other. The truck feels much better, more "planted", and the G forces are significantly less. The vertical white lines indicate the same position on the road. I don't know why I bothered with this, but it is cool to see the difference. Have a nice day. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. I understand the benefits of most of these things but I tend to try to be as level as possible (within 6 degrees) for the absorption fridge. I'd like to figure out a way to keep the door from swinging open so far. Thanks!
    1 point
  17. @csevelwe found out early on that our Elite II just worked better if it was set up fairly level side-to-side and slightly nose high. The refrigerator door tends to swing closed, tanks drain quicker, the AC condensate drains better, the fresh water pickup is in the rear of the tank, pantry door tends to stay open, window tracks drain better, and water behind the awning runs off the rear. There is an odd phenomenon that occurs where the kitchen sink will not drain. Read this thread Since I started setting up slightly nose high I’ve not had this happen again.
    1 point
  18. One other comment, antiseize on stainless threads prevents the nut from welding itself (seizing) to the bolt. I had to remove the big 1/2” bumper main bolts to do a mod, one nut was seized solid and I had to literally snap the bolt with a 3/4” breaker bar. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  19. Maybe, just, maybe, you'll get to go to the Yukon. Perhaps even into Alaska, before snow falls. https://www.usatoday.com/story/travel/news/2021/07/16/when-canadian-border-open-vaccinated-americans-may-able-enter-cross-august/7992083002/
    1 point
  20. That's why we have the clamshell drains, underbody. Water, even condensate, has to have a way out. Occasionally, in humid, rainy spring weather, I see drips from the clams. I know they are doing the job. As far as the step, I'm not (yet) worried about drain holes. In use, no issues. Tucked away, folded up, i get some leaf debris , but easy to clear away . Even if I had drain holes, the leaves would stick. John e Davies is correct. Separate aluminum and stainless with a good washer/barrier/product. Stainless bolts are weaker (long run) than steel, but less corrosive with aluminum. Stainless is less likely to react with aluminum than mild steel. Aluminum fasteners are too weak, so forget that choice, imo Always watch for signs.
    1 point
  21. Stainless hardware and aluminum can cause issues, especially if you tow with corrosive deicers on the road 😳. I use aluminum antiseize liberally wherever stainless and aluminum touch, and it does help. While not ideal, SS fasteners are used everywhere on Ollies and mine seem to hold up OK. But I never tow in winter. Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant I would not worry about different alloys, unless you plan to join them by welding. In that case they should match. I just had a major repair done on my rear cargo rack, which suffered cracks when I ran it into the decorative stonework of my house….. I added 1/4” reinforcements, and I just now reinstalled it to the cross beam with antiseize. There was no sign of corrosion at all when I removed the stainless hardware, after about three years. Note to self, do not back into buildings again. $50 for structural aluminum materials, six hours of my labor, $150 welding labor, plus a $30 tip. …. I still haven’t addressed the stonework that got knocked off the house😤. SeaDawg is correct, drain holes are needed everywhere, they don’t have to be large. even your entry steps need them, they trap water when stowed, it is unsightly and dumps on your sneakers when you open them. Trapped water for months and months OTH is really really bad news, road spray especially causes much worse problems, you must ensure it can’t happen. Have you contacted Oliver about your water? They might want to issue a service bulletin for drain holes. You might find this amusing. …”Hmmmmmm, that is quite a lotta wattah!” How to drain water from Touareg rockers John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  22. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2151-how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps/ This setup has been working 100% reliably for five seasons, as long as I don’t forget to use it. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  23. If the drawer latch looks like this you may be able to replace it with a stronger pull. They widely available in 3 lb. to 10 lb. pulls. The service department may be of help. Mossey
    1 point
  24. Dave and Kimberly, welcome and congrats on the upcoming Oliver. I hope you’ll find it a good match for your travel and camping needs. We’re in our 6th year in our EII and are having a great time. We’re on our way to Maine and just spent a couple of days in Ohio. Hope to see you on the road! Mike
    1 point
  25. My installation may not win any awards, but it has worked well for the last couple of years. I had some of those interlocking foam mats that I cut to provide a surface under the box. One thickness on the fiberglass area, and two thicknesses on the aluminum tongue. I got some stainless steel bolts and nuts and some rubber washers from Home Depot. I drilled three holes through the box and the fiberglass in front of the propane tanks. I used the Home Depot hardware to secure the box with the foam mats underneath. It has been rock solid ever since. I cut a piece of the foam to fit on the bottom of the box to fit over the hardware. Here are a some pics of the holes I drilled.
    1 point
  26. I shopped around and found an in the bed locking tool box that is deep enough for the Honda 2200 generator we chose. In addition to the generator, it carries: a small tank of gasoline, small, portable LP tank (for an outside two burner stove and gas grill), the aforementioned gas grill, tools, bike tool box, folding camp table - items you like to keep secure and out of the weather. It is deep enough to accommodate the generator and has tons of room for more "stuff". We did not get the tongue accessory box because it would interfere with our bike rack that attaches to the pickup with a dual receiver hitch; the box would prohibit most turning situations. Storage box Ball mount hitch with accessory receiver
    1 point
  27. Hi Sherry, I used to be an ornithologist (biologist who studies birds), and one of my jobs was sage grouse. We had multiple tasks. One of the tasks was just finding, trapping, aging, putting on backpacks that monitored movements. Because we were in a remote location in western CO, we had to live in a low-quality travel trailer that was towed to state-owned property very high up in the mountains. We basically lived on the side of a mountain just above aspen trees. Then we would take ATVS out to do our jobs, riding 45 mph around to get wherever we needed to get, racing the afternoon thunderstorms. As the states don't have much $, especially when it comes to biology, we lived in trailers that didn't work (and only get hired for 6 months at a time that way we stayed temp with no benefits). They would give us a battery and gas, but the only thing that worked was gas for cooking food. We had to bring our own water. It was really cold, I mean really cold. I wore the 7 layers of clothes and was still freezing. I had the clearest skin I ever had because my skin was exposed to the air for literally 5 minutes in a day when I changed my clothes as fast as possible because it was so cold. So essentially I lived in a hard-sided tent. It was hard work. Great to be outside.
    1 point
  28. Congratulations! I'm glad delivery is behind us. It was the longest road trip we have taken in recent years - over 5,000 miles. And not much sightseeing since we wanted to be home for family birthdays and Christmas. It took us 8 days from SW Oregon to Hohenwald, with not too long of driving days (6-7 hrs max) and a day to spare once we got to Tennessee. We allowed extra time in the event we encountered bad weather (delivery day was Dec 7) . . . . . took I-80 across to Nebraska, then south through Kansas and east through S. Missouri to Tennessee. We were fortunate to have acceptable weather all the way. Very little traffic, but then we avoided St. Louis, Kansas City, and Memphis. I-40 was our trip home, making it in 6 days. We drove a few longer days in order to avoid a storm coming in to N. Arizona/New Mexico/Texas. Temps were cold in the higher desert areas, but above freezing during the day. We had a bit of snow on I-5 between Shasta and Ashland, but that was it. I spent a fair amount of time the 30 days prior to departure, monitoring the weather and looking at weather history for that time of year along various routes. Our original delivery date was Feb 3, but Oliver offered us the earlier Dec delivery. So thankful, as the first part of Feb there was a huge snow across the Central Plains and into Texas. Whew! Dodged that bullet! You could easily do the trip from your place in 5 hours, each way. But you want to allow at least a couple of days to stay close to Hohenwald for a shakedown - So nearly two weeks. BTW: the total cost of our trip out and back (hotels, fuel, and campsites) was just under $2,000, driving an F350 SD diesel crew cab (16-18mpg/12-14 towing). We took along all of our meals (only eating out twice) so I didn't count food as an expense. I put together a large "duffle kitchen" (induction burner, electric tea kettle, pots/pans, cooler (didn't have to replenish ice once since it was cold all the way out). Booked hotels with fridge/microwave and most had some semblance of breakfast. Once there, we bought food for the trip home. Worked well, especially since Covid had most restaurants shut down or take out only. Fast food for a week would be more than I could stand 😜 Assuming you drive to delivery: I see you have a crew cab, which is good. It took the backseat and a pickup bed tool box to carry everything we "needed" for the Ollie! And, don't forget to take several gal of antifreeze (or purchase there for the trip home) in case you have to winterize on the return trip. We choose not to have the trailer winterized at delivery because we wanted to test all the systems - water, water heater, shower, dumping/filling tanks, etc. Our backseat loaded for the trip to Hohenwald:
    1 point
  29. Welcome Dave and Kimberly! While camping at Mt. Pisgah NC on the Blue Ridge Parkway we saw an Oliver Legacy Elite for the first time. The nice owners gave us a complete tour and we loved their beautiful Ollie. Oliver had temporarily stopped production at that time, so we waited until Ollies were back in production, finding a nice LE2 during 2016. Best Regards, Bill and Debbie 2015 LE2 #75
    1 point
  30. Add then add for the crazy times we find ourselves in today. I have sold several higher dollar recreation and farm items in the last two months - I could have gotten many more $$$ than I asked - the market has moved much higher than I ever imagined, Similar to what you hear about in the Real Estate market - you have to experience it to believe it - just amazing. RB
    1 point
  31. Let’s not forget that you should make a correction to “today’s” dollars to be meaningful. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  32. Our system is lithium. Now, I'm not sure how asking questions about electricity equates to not knowing how stuff works or lack of towing experience. I have lived in an RV for 6 months, on top of a mountain. Did it have solar? No. Electricity or gas? No. Did I tow it and set it up and teach men how to do that? Yes. I am cramming to take over someone's contract that couldn't complete their purchase, and I've got less than one month to learn what you all took years. I am gathering knowledge between work, staying up late hours to do this. I appreciate all comments that answer the questions and give information.
    1 point
  33. I methodically cleaned the areas with 3M Adhesive cleaner, applied the EZE gutters, and presto they are secured like "glue". Many miles later and doing well. No tape was harmed in the install of the gutters.
    1 point
  34. I wouldn’t stick the gutters on and then leave for a camping trip. I think being parked for a few warm days ensures a lasting installation.
    1 point
  35. Nothing goes in our sink drain that would cause a clog. Dishes are scraped and wiped clean, and we use a strainer on the drain to catch anything else. Something in our plumbing is defying the laws of physics.
    1 point
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