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  1. We have recently changed our phone system to provide a better experience for owners and prospects. If you need to call us for sales or service, we have now consolidated our numbers down to one number. Please call 1-888-526-3978 for all sales and services needs. When we switched the phone system over, the service number was supposed to forward to the 1-888-526-3978 number but apparently is not forwarding. We apologize if anyone has attempted to contact the service using the service phone number.
    3 points
  2. We aren't having kids tag along on our adventure so the Elite II works well for our situation. If our requirements were like yours I think we would just find a SOB with a front bedroom and rear bunks and spend the remaining $ on either building or renting indoor storage so as to protect it from roof degradation/leaks and sidewall delamination and maintenance when things happen. Once the kids were either grown enough to either sleep in a tent or out of the house, we would move to something like the Ollie. The most important thing it sounds to you is to get the kids out camping sooner rather than later (Kudos to you). Best wishes in your search for the right trailer to get your Family out on the road.
    3 points
  3. If you are going to stop in Moab to do Arches, you should at least take a day and do Canyonlands. We actually like it better than Arches, less crowded. Outside of Bryce is a very nice FS campground, Red Canyon. No hookups but nice paved sites and is very well maintained. Scenic too. Goblin State Park is good, make reservations early because it fills up fast. Mike Red Canyon Campground just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park.
    2 points
  4. Update: Jason is sending new text strap, but is also going to discuss with engineering to see if there might be a better solution. Great service continues.
    2 points
  5. I am not sure of your skill level but it is a simple test to verify the thermostat switch. If you can find your thermostat as shown in the picture, remove both connectors and test for 12 volts on each connector. If you don’t have a multimeter or test light you can make a short jumper with a 6" piece of 12 or 14 AWG wire with male terminals on both ends and connect the 2 wires you removed from the thermostat together. If you need help, let us know. Mossey
    2 points
  6. My AGMs worked well for 5 years. Never worried about running them too low when dry camping. We’re getting used to our new lithium’s, they are working well too. I replaced the 4 AGMs (about 280 lbs and 400aH) with two Lithium’s (about 75 lbs and 200aH). So far we’ve never been below 80% in the morning after running stuff all night. The Oliver package is more than double what we have so it should work well. Mike
    2 points
  7. Since I'm dealing with a number of messy issues with my new to me LE2, I wanted to shift my attention and share with y'all a couple recent mods that I'm proud of. Some were the genius of others on this forum that I copied and some are my own.
    1 point
  8. Propane fridges, like propane generators, are less efficient as altitude increases. I remember Mountainborn having a bit of trouble with his at altitudes over 10,000 ft, where they were summer camp hosts back in 2009 or so. The "may not work" is cya/lawyerese, imo. We've never had an issue.
    1 point
  9. I used a square dowel rod cut to size and used Gorilla construction glue to hold it to the door. After it dried I just used screws to affix the holder to the dowel. This is the link for the bag holder. There are many choices in design but this worked well for my needs. Here is the link for the rack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U86KJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apap_KJZLBqNUa9LkA Happy modding!
    1 point
  10. If going through Colorado you might bookmark this: https://cotrip.org/home.htm Just trying to get from Golden/Denver to Ouray this past week I was juggling I-70 closures due to mud slides and State 50 full closure all week. It’s a moving target here with road repairs and September weather adds another variable.
    1 point
  11. TL/DR so I don't have feedback on the details of your long lists, but I'm wondering if you've seen the checklists for getting ready for towing and for setting up camp that are in the Oliver user manual (available on this site at the Oliver University section)? They strike me as a great starting point and a nice balance between being thorough while avoiding numbing the mind with detail. They also have good steps for sanitizing as well as winterizing the water system. I've added a few things on top of their list for my pre-flight process but only a few.
    1 point
  12. When draining your grey tank, I noted you elevated the front of trailer that is good. Also you should open the drain valve inside the trailer when at dump station. Probably already open when connected to full hookups at campsite. Opening the shower drain valve lets the gray tank drain faster because it allows air to enter the tank. Make sure to close it prior to heading off down the road. Like Mike said I am not aware of any stove vents that need opening or closing. Not sure I would drive with and a/c cover on. Overall I think your lists are pretty thorough. You may adjust things as you get more familiar with it. Like Mike said, just go out and enjoy it!
    1 point
  13. We were traveling with our Norcold 4.5 refrigerator on Auto. We had the LP off and were running on DC. We check this too by pressing the mode button and the LED illuminates showing DC. When we got to the campground where we don’t have shore power we turned on the LP. I checked the stove at some point and turned on the Truma outside and the at the remote inside. After a few hours I happen to check the VictronConnect Smart Battery Shunt numbers using my iPhone and Bluetooth and discovered extraordinary draw. I immediately checked the refrigerator by pressing the mode button and confirmed it was on DC. Several iterations of this with the Norcold setting of Auto always showed DC when I pressed the mode button. I finally changed to manual LP and the LED F was displayed indicating an LP issue. I couldn’t understand why the stove and Truma would work and the Norcold had a code, but power cycling the refrigerator after relighting the stove for one more check resolved the issue. I suspect the code was suppressed by the Auto setting on the refrigerator. My warning is to not trust the Auto setting without checking the actual operation by pressing mode or setting to the desired setting manually.
    1 point
  14. I may make a couple of replies here as I read through. Also, I am not sure if you actually mean 1a (inside trailer setup) precedes 1b (outside trailer setup) or if that is the order you wrote them in. I would set up the outside before setting up the inside. So let me start with 1b. Also sometimes the order is important and sometimes it is not. I will only comment if I think it would serve you better to change an the order. One more thing, we have only had our trailer for a year so someone else with more experience may have better input, but hopefully I can get you started. After backing in to the site and before doing anything like unhooking or anything else for that matter I check my power with my surge suppressor and make sure the water is working. I have never had problems so far, but better to find before you unhook if you have power or water issues. With power breaker off, plug in your surge suppressor and then power on your breaker. My surge suppressor gives a blue and green light if proper wiring. All good, turn off breaker. Check water. Maybe add this to step 4. All good, then you can proceed with your list. I have made adjustments to 7. I wasn't sure what you were talking about in some cases so I reworded a couple 1b 7) To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer): A) Detach safety emergency brake cable from truck and stow. B) Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow. C) Detach safety chains from truck and stow. D) Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in. E) Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack. F) Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin. G) Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out). H) Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin. I) Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground. J) Adjust front jack so tongue is level with truck hitch. K) Remove hitch coupler pin L) Pull up on hitch coupler lever. M) Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball. If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch. N) Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock. Continuing at 12. Since I already verified power working from above and my surge protector is connected I connect my cable to Oliver, make sure breaker is off on power pole, attach cable to surge suppressor and turn on power. Also I just noted that Mike and Carol replied so I read through their thoughts and will not repeat their input now. I will try to read through departure and pre trip stuff in a bit.
    1 point
  15. Yes. When I ordered the batteries from Battle Born they also sent the upgraded Progressive Dynamics charger that handles lithium and jumper cables. Mike
    1 point
  16. Pretty thorough. Made my head hurt a little reading through everything. I think you’ll be able to whittle these steps down after a while. We don’t use checklists when setting up, tearing down or dumping, it’s pretty much second nature. We both do specific things and then we double check what each has done. We do use checklists for packing, too easy to forget to bring something. A few comments on your list: - I am not aware of any stove vent that needs opening. - We travel with propane on. The fridge switches to 110v automatically if we’re hooked up. - We generally turn the water pump on when we need to use water, we don‘t leave it on 24/7 when boondocking. - If you have the suburban hot water tank and the outside switch is on it will automatically use 110v. If dry camping we turn the hot water gas on before we need hot water. Once hot, it will stay pretty hot for a while without the gas cycling on and off. - When we arrive at a site the first thing we do before backing or pulling in is to walk the site and verify where utilities are (if any) so we know where best to park. - Not sure why you need to hook your electrical cable to the trailer first. Just ensure the breaker in the box is off before hooking up electrical. We don’t have the on board surge protector, so we plug one into the pole that checks the electricity. It usually has about a 45 second delay before it passes electricity. I think the newer trailers have built in surge protection. You’ll use 30a most of the time, only twice have I had to use 50a, once because that’s all there was and once because the 30a was bad. - Your “gray water sewage” is really black water sewage. Black and gray go down the same hole. I flush the black tank a couple of times before pulling the gray handle. - Trip prep: I always check trailer lug nuts before a trip. - We travel with a full fresh tank. There are times you may not be able to fill once you arrive. - “white water” is normally referred to as fresh water. Gray and black have the colors! - if you are at a dump station, you’ll learn to be pretty efficient especially if folks are waiting. We’ve never had anyone get impatient but we try to be ready so we don’t have to do a lot of unloading to get what we need to dump. Like I said, some of this will get to be second nature, just enjoy the process! Mike
    1 point
  17. We have camped at 8,600 feet for a week and had no problems with the refrigerator. 2019 Elite II with a Norcold refrigerator. Andrew
    1 point
  18. Thats odd, we just returned from a trip into the Wind River Range camped at just over 8000 feet with no issues what so ever. Even kept my homemade ice cream frozen solid. However I do have the Dometic 3-way in our Elite II.
    1 point
  19. Agree with Mike and Carol, getting through El Paso is mostly a non event and especially compared to DFW or worse yet Houston which are both a major long drawn out PITA.
    1 point
  20. Another 6'5" checking in. Bed length in our twin model isn't a problem for me but I'm not a busy sleeper so your mileage may vary. I will probably look to add a filler to create a little extra legroom for longer trips. Foy makes a nice kit for that. Bathroom height isn't great but I'll just sit on the can while showering. Sometimes I just use the bathroom sink while standing outside the bathroom. Beats all the crouching. I've taken advantage of the front door skull cushion but I don't hit my head on the AC unit. Wait, am I shrinking???
    1 point
  21. I can’t comment on the difference from AGM to lithium. I upgraded our last rv from 6v flooded to lithium. It was a night and day difference. After having experience with lithium I didn’t hesitate when ordering the Oliver I wanted lithium again.
    1 point
  22. Thanks,Mike! That's a big weight difference. Did you put in an inverter/converter as well? John
    1 point
  23. This is true. On one side you see a modern US and on the other you see shacks going up the hills. It is stark. I-10 through El Paso is nothing like going through DFW. They have been doing a lot of construction but you get through it pretty quick. You can go around to the north through the Franklin mountains, very scenic just a bit longer. Mike
    1 point
  24. That worked briefly for me, then the error came back. Hopefully you are now on the other side of it for good! I've installed the replacement that Xantrex sent me (following nudging by Mike in Oliver service on top of my requests) and in a few fairly brief rounds of testing it's all looking good.
    1 point
  25. Was running 58-60. I know where you’re coming from. Just trying to nail the correct PSI for aftermarket tires on my LX 570 was a minor exercise, but at least we have IH8Mud.com expertise there. Probably need to link me to the tire thread here, but how did you arrive at 42….or just using the same as your Land Cruiser at 6000 lbs. 🙂
    1 point
  26. At the upper right of the screen click on your name. The menu will drop down and click on account settings. Then click on Signature and let your creative self take over. Mike
    1 point
  27. I guess the code was as shown on this pic I sent to service, which works.
    1 point
  28. Have to agree with Steve - I’m immensely impressed at the dexterity and patience involved there. Another route that people have used when making repairs in that space has been to cut access hatches in the bottom of the drawer cabinet. Oliver should really do that in construction anyway. It’s easy to do with a router, using the sides of the cabinets as your jig. They don’t lessen the cabinet’s structural integrity and will save you a bit of weight. Plus you save all that time of training the octopus. If you do that, though, just be sure to cut some ¼” plywood covers for the hatches since things in the drawers can bounce out and end up in that space, and you don’t want to have to search through the hull space for an adventurous fork.
    1 point
  29. My suggestion for sleeping kids has always been a tent. Give them the camping experience while giving yourself the extra space. Add a cot or an air mattress if they want a bit of luxury. But to answer your question, I don’t think anyone has done anything like that. It seems possible in theory but IMO also seems like it would be a pain in practice. Perhaps if it’s something lightweight that could be taken down except when sleeping? As for the hatches, the forward one on the curb side gives access to the water valves if you think you’ll use them, but otherwise you’ll only need to access the hatches if something is broken.
    1 point
  30. Hi Sherry, I used to be an ornithologist (biologist who studies birds), and one of my jobs was sage grouse. We had multiple tasks. One of the tasks was just finding, trapping, aging, putting on backpacks that monitored movements. Because we were in a remote location in western CO, we had to live in a low-quality travel trailer that was towed to state-owned property very high up in the mountains. We basically lived on the side of a mountain just above aspen trees. Then we would take ATVS out to do our jobs, riding 45 mph around to get wherever we needed to get, racing the afternoon thunderstorms. As the states don't have much $, especially when it comes to biology, we lived in trailers that didn't work (and only get hired for 6 months at a time that way we stayed temp with no benefits). They would give us a battery and gas, but the only thing that worked was gas for cooking food. We had to bring our own water. It was really cold, I mean really cold. I wore the 7 layers of clothes and was still freezing. I had the clearest skin I ever had because my skin was exposed to the air for literally 5 minutes in a day when I changed my clothes as fast as possible because it was so cold. So essentially I lived in a hard-sided tent. It was hard work. Great to be outside.
    1 point
  31. I don't know about you, but my back isn't what it used to be and I'm not keen on bending/kneeling for longer than necessary. Attaching water hoses on the Ollie is a little awkward at best. I'm sure this is not a novel idea but I thought I'd share my new mod that will hopefully be faster and also save that crick in the back. I found a pack of 3 hose quick connects on Amazon and covers/dust caps for all of my hoses. The covers/plugs are actually for tractors or skid steer hydraulic fittings. It took me a few (let's say many) returns to get the right size ordered but I'm pleased with how they fit. We'll see if they stay on to keep the road debris out. The original chain caps can be used to plug the female ends of your basement stored hoses!
    1 point
  32. I think this would be a very easy problem for an RV tech to figure out. Call Service to schedule a mobile appointment. I dislike propane appliances intensely, but they normally are pretty reliable until they actually fail completely. Does that make sense? I am sure Oliver will get it corrected. This is another good reason to have a backup fridge, a compressor type running off 12 volts in your truck. Otherwise a 3 way fridge failure will ruin a vacation, as you have discovered. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  33. So…this may not apply… but it’s a thought. Our fridge (2020 E2) had issues from the get go.. worked great on AC, but was fussy when running on gas. There was no rhyme or reason to it, sometimes it worked fine, but would shut off for no reason, sometimes it wouldn’t ignite. It didn’t matter it we were stationary, moving, level, or parked hanging off a cliff… sometimes it worked … sometimes it didn’t. In the end the issue was that the igniter wasn’t spaced properly, the gap was way to big.… see pg 12 in the Norcold N41X manual.. It was an easy fix. might be worth a look..
    1 point
  34. To put the sealant conversation to rest, we had a significant rain all day yesterday and the sealant held well! No leaks.. So far! Here is the silver lining in all this ~ The land yacht got a name!
    1 point
  35. Simple - Re-review the video at the top of this thread. As I recall, there are eight zerks per side for a total of 16. 12 of the 16 are easily seen but the others at the top where the Dexter attach to the frame can be a bit more difficult to see. Wipe off the zerk, attach you grease gun, pump grease until you see new grease coming out from around the bolt, remove grease gun, clean up mess and excess grease from around the Dexter and zerk. If you have them attach a zerk cap to help keep the zerk clean. Complete the first side, have an adult beverage and then complete the other side and call it a day.😃 Bill
    1 point
  36. It's pretty bad that Ollie owners have to resort to sleeping with ANR headphones or turning the A/C off and sleeping in the heat and humidity just because the installed HVAC is too loud. Same issue when eating as well. Time for OTT to provide some relief for future owners. The solution(s) is/are available!
    1 point
  37. I think that's probably the coleman mach 10 ndq with soft start built in. Too big for my Elite, I think. Hope they'll expand the technology to smaller units.
    1 point
  38. We just spent our first two nights in the Oliver. The a/c noise is awful. The Atwood installation is now top of my modification list.
    1 point
  39. Yes, RV air conditioners are noisy . . . . but we cope. If it is really warm out, try to situate the trailer to take advantage of shade or in the least, park perpendicular to the sun as it goes down. Use fans and windows strategically to get maximum circulation; use auxiliary fans when possible. We don't attempt to sleep with the A/C running. If it is extremely warm out we will run the A/C to cool the cabin down before retiring for the night. We don't expect conditions to be as good as at home with our sophisticated HVAC systems; Just thankful to have something to cool things down below 80 degrees. I might feel differently if we were full-timers.
    1 point
  40. Overland has some top notch memory. I installed an Airhead years ago in my truck camper and there were things I liked better but there are some things on the NH that are better too. Overall, its probably a toss up. I actually just got back from my first 3 weeks in the Oliver so the comparisons are pretty fresh in my head. Two major things the NH does better unless AH has changed in the last 10 years, urine redirect and the size of the pooper hole. The AH always seemed to leak a little liquid and make more of a mess in the bowl. Also, unless you had gps guided solids, it was almost impossible for a grown man to avoid the dreaded streak marks. You end up using coffee filters and strategically laid TP to avoid the streaks. With the NH, bombs away without much thought. As Overland said, the two main benefits to the AH are an actual seat and easier urine tank removal. That said, I'm redirecting my urine to a holding tank anyway as we were emptying it almost daily and I go outside most of the time. Big water drinkers. The other thing is I think the AH solid tank itself was bigger because we used to get quite a bit more time between emptying, but we'll see once its actually warm enough to compost quicker. The crank design also was a little better where the NH starts needing a fair amount of leverage pretty early on. As far as the fan, it doesn't need much, I'm sure you can do it just as Oliver installs the NH. The extra solid bucket from AH is also nice so you can remove the full one and let it compost a while longer before emptying. Hope that helps.
    1 point
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