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This, I like - I never cared much for Oliver's sink and faucet choices and I'd actually planned to supply them a sink and faucet to get installed on the line. Unfortunately the one I wanted wouldn't work and I was having trouble getting the proper dimensions from Oliver, so I just let it go and figured I'd replace it later. Well, that was a good idea until I realized that the cutout Oliver made for the sink was way too big for any of the bar sized sinks that I could find. And all of the full sized kitchen sinks were too big to fit. But finally I stumbled across this oversized bar sink from Franke. It's the 17" Franke Vector. Overall, it's the same width as the existing sink, but the lip is narrower, so the bowl itself is a bit wider. Mainly the sink is much longer and deeper. In overall volume, it's over twice as large as the original sink, but takes up no more counter space. Can't beat that. And because it's farther forward and 3" deeper, it doesn't splash all over the place like the original. In fact, I can even turn the faucet up all the way without it splashing over the front of the sink, which is novel. I like the Franke sinks in that they have the straight sides and look of a modern zero radius sink, but they do add a slight radius to the corners so that you can actually keep them clean. Installation wasn't too hard. I'd rate it 7/10. The difficulty was that I had to modify the base cabinet for it to fit. There's a wood brace running across the top front that is screwed to the fiberglass beneath the drawer trim, which had to be cut out, and also a portion of the left side of the cabinet. That sounds like a lot of structural support to remove, but the cabinets are mainly tied in at the bottom and I ran it past Jason beforehand to make sure I wasn't looking at it wrong. I have to say that the cabinets are stoutly built, and I'm not at all worried about it. The second problem I ran into was that my countertop wasn't perfectly flat. It bowed down in the middle slightly which wasn't apparent until I installed the sink. But I was able to temporarily shim the counter against the top of the cabinet while the silicone seal dried and then I glued PVC blocks around the perimeter of the sink to both hold it in place and to level the counter. The Franke sinks have an odd installation clip that wasn't designed with hollow core fiberglass in mind, so the blocks were necessary anyway. It's not going anywhere now. Of course I lost use of the flip out drawer but I hated that thing anyway. I glued a few ½" blocks to the front of the sink and then fixed the drawer front to the blocks with heavy duty velcro, just in case I ever need to remove it for some reason. The sink depth worked out perfectly with the existing cutout on the back of the middle drawer to clear the drain. I thought I was going to have to get a Hepvo trap to make it all clear but Oliver actually places the trap behind the cabinet, so no problem. I did have to get the narrowest profile elbow I could find to attach to the drain basket, so I had to go with cheap plastic rather than PVC, but such is life. At the end of the day, however, I decided to use a different drain basket that was a bit deeper, so I had to make the drawer cutout about a half inch deeper after all. The faucet is a Grohe that I found on sale at Home Depot for about half price, so that was a nice find. It has a really nice feel to it and unlike the sink, was a cinch to install. Grohe has a trick installation method that allows you to work from above so that one person can do it without crawling under the counter a hundred times. Oliver's hot and cold lines are convenient to get to and there's an access panel in the back of the cabinet that can be removed if you need more room to work. The only issue I ran into was that the counterweight for the sprayer was getting caught up on everything that's packed in the back of the cabinet. To fix it, I made a tube from some flexible plastic sheeting that I had lying around and just slid that over the sprayer hose. Now the hose slides easily inside the tube and as a benefit, the weight won't bang around inside the cabinet while traveling. So that's about it. I've learned that I don't have the patience or foresight to take progress pictures Like John does, so my description will have to do. But I'm happy to answer any questions.

I'd say remove the blinds, make sure that the strings aren't bound up in any way, and if not, try rubbing some wax into them. There's also a tension spring that you could try stretching, or retie the string with a little more slack. Be careful you don't overdo it though, since the lower blind depends on that friction to stay up. In fact, the complaint has typically been that there isn't enough friction to hold the lower blind all the way up.

Non-hybrid 2022 Tundra MPG released today, pricing will be released at end of October and non-hybrid Tundra will be available December. Hybrid Tundra will be available during the spring, but don't know when MPG/pricing will be available for the hybrid: 2022 Tundra 3.5L Twin Turbo 10 speed automatic non-hybrid 389HP @ 5200RPM & 479 lb ft torque @ 2400RPM 348HP @ 2400RPM & 405 lb ft torque @ 2000RPM (SR base model) MPG 18 city 23 highway 20 combined 2WD MPG 17 city 22 highway 19 combined 4WD 2022 Tundra Hybrid 3.5L twin turbo 10 speed automatic: 437HP @ 5200RPM & 583 lb ft torque @ 2400RPM https://www.tundras.com/threads/2022-tundra.76839/page-586#post-2449457 https://www.tundras.com/threads/2022-tundra.76839/page-585#post-2449297 Current 2021 5.7L Tundra fuel economy: MPG 13 city 18 highway 15 combined 381HP/401 lb ft torque https://www.toyota.com/tundra/features/mpg/8261/8252/8275 Used to get 12MPG with our 2016 5.7L Tundra not using cruise and going very easy on the throttle when towing our LE2 Ollie

Steve Landrum Update The past weekend, a fellow traveler and Oliver owner , Steve Landrum / Tali were preparing their Ollie to travel to the Oliver Rally in Florida that Foy Sperring is organizing. Steve was gathering up his gear and went to open a large gate at his home. It held stubbornly tight and then suddenly released sending Steve to the ground where he hit his head. At first he seemed to be OK , but last night at 12:30, Monday morning, Steve requested Tali call an ambulance because his pain was so intense. At the hospital the exam revealed Steve has a subdural hematoma, a bleeding of the brain. The bleeding was significant but treatment with blood thinners and new blood was necessary before surgery. Early this morning (Monday), the surgery was completed and Steve is currently in Intensive Care Unit at the hospital in Tupelo Mississippi where he and Tali worked for years. The physicians are saying that if all goes well, Steve should have a 90% recovery from this accident. However, the next 4 days are critical. The doctors are constantly monitoring Steve’s progress, his blood and carefully regulating his medication. Tali recently had surgery on her foot and recovery for her is slow and painful. Today while Steve was being treated, Tali had to go in to her surgeon for wound care and treatment. Mobility for Tali is very difficult for her now. Steve’s daughter and son-in-law live nearby and are providing care for both Steve and Tali. Tali’s desire is that she be able to focus all of her attention on supporting Steve as well as recovering from her foot surgery. For this reason, Tali requests that you turn toward God and spend time in prayer that Steve will have a full and complete recovery. She values the prayers from each of you and Steve will greatly benefit from Our Lord’s healing grace that will result from your prayers. As I receive communication from Tali, I will post Steve’s progress. Thank You

I know the answer to this - but - where do you and Duke sleep?😁 Bill

About four years ago I found Oliver and these forums while browsing the Airstream forums looking for our 1st Travel Trailer (some tenting camping). The next four years consisted of mostly reading these forums, sending for brochures, to "unofficially" spec'ing out ours (dreaming), to using the referral program to see one in person, and to finally scheduling a tour this past Monday. I was impressed with the detail and thought that Oliver puts into these but not surprised since so many on here had prepared me without any of you knowing it. We sat down with Jason and went thru all the options then the question came, "do you want to secure a production date?". I couldn't have been more happy to tell him absolutely. So we now have a delivery date next July (15th I believe). We are newbies to the travel trailer scene and look forward to meeting many of you over the next few years. I will continue scouring these pages to help me finalize the options before April and to help prepare us for alittle life on the road.

The large black tank flush line is unused and not connected to any other parts of the system, you can remove the line completely from inside at the tank and CAP the lower fitting, where it enters from outside the hull, so some idiot, or senior moment, cannot accidentally hook up a garden hose and flood the interior. The small line behind the toilet base with the 1/4" chrome ball vale IS hooked up to the fresh system, and you need to flush that out. Put a paper cup over the outlet or you will get a face full - the water or antifreeze comes out like a geyser. If you ever happen to open up the vanity, you could disconnect the line there and cap the tee fitting. John Davies Spokane WA

Our #381 was picked up September 2018 and is at 40,000. Now that we live by our son, he has decided to add more miles to the Oliver with his family.

Since the fresh water tank is comparatively large and there is relatively little water in there (assuming that it has been mostly drained), there is nothing to fear from the remaining water in that tank freezing. Remember, it is the expansion of freezing water that causes the issues. If there is nothing for this expanding freezing water to "expand" against then there is no harm. Certainly there is nothing wrong with what GJ is doing - assuming that the fresh tank is thoroughly flushed prior to its next use (which should be done regardless when the tank is sanitized). But, it is extra work. Bill

I have an easier approach I think. For three years, I just gravity drained the tank. Doing so left a bit of water in the tank. It worked fine for three winters where we say temperatures down to -10 degrees F, and all was fine. But I too worried about the valve and drain line at those ultra low temp's. So this year I added a few steps just for the fresh water tank and it's valve and drain line: During the first steps of winterizing, you end up bleeding the faucets and showers. Towards the end of each, you get pink water, and then almost pure antifreeze. I harvest this almost all antifreeze for a second pass to the main tank. I lowered the full weight of the Ollie on the tires (Sucked in the rear jacks), then put about a foot of blocks under the front jack, I raised the tongue all the way up by the electric jack and gravity drained the fresh water tank from the tank. I then pump into the city water port the almost pure antifreeze from the fauctets and shower. I do this with the valve open. When it stops draining pinkish water, I close the drain valve and pump in via the city water port about a quart of pure RV antifreeze directly into the tank. I lower the front jack to the blocks to move around the antifreeze in the tank. Then I raised the front again. I then slightly opened the tank valve let some of this almost pure antifreeze into the valve and drain line. I close the valve and keep the rest of the almost pure antifreeze in the tank for the winter. BINGO! No worries. Overkill? Yea probably but I sleep well. Good luck.

Fritz: Here is the EXACT location of that drain. Look just to the right of the foot prints and towards the wheel well a bit. GJ

If the issue is with a sticking gate valve, which is opened and closed by that metal rod, pour some of this down the drain, let it sit for a few minutes, then open and close the valve a few times. It's actually good to add to your black and gray tanks now and again to lube those gate valves as well. https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-Drain-Valve-Lubricant-15843/dp/B000BGK2L0/ref=asc_df_B000BGK2L0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4939187814671232371&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061081&hvtargid=pla-569810088199&psc=1 Dave

Keep up the faith your in our thoughts. 👍🏼

Just winterized Ollie today. When I pumped RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank inlet, lifted Ollie's nose high to drain the fresh water tank. Also found the fresh water tank drain pipe on the bottom of the trailer floor in my Ollie will not drain well unless I pull the pipe down lightly when below Ollie and clamp with a hose clamp where the pipe come out of the hull to let the drain on the inside of Ollie sit flat on the floor. Before there was about a 1/2" gap between the pipe & floor not letting some of the contents drain out.

Anything is doable! We have two 60# doodles & chose RV travel partly [mostly] because of them. It's great & it's a pain. They are fabulous security alarms & motivators to get out on the trails. How particular are you about cleanliness? 🐾 Invest in a good cordless vacuum. 🐾 We have two Grassworx clean machine doormats (Ace) one outside, one inside - if they made a runner, I'd buy it. 😁 🐾 Buy throw rugs you won't mind tossing in a dumpster. 🐾 We all use the microfiber camp towels [everyone has their own color] which are great for wiping off dog feet--before they jump on your bed. (Terrycloth never dries, ever.) 🐾 Shower door stays open because bowl is in shower on top of Foy's beautiful mat. 🐾 So that our pups won't become projectiles while traveling, we harness & secure with seatbelt attachments, all purchased on Amazon. 🐾 Hubby built a platform so they can see out the window without standing plus it creates storage underneath. 🐾 Important: put together a doggy first aid kit. 🐾 More important: train them well. [Mine are so-so, but we're working on it.] They make traveling fun!

We have spent the last two nights in our trailer and it has been very enjoyable. Picked up #905 on the 29th and stayed in the lot for a night and the second night out at the Merriwether Lewis State park to test out no hookups. Good results so far. Jason Lindsey has really helped us out. We have been in contact trying to make the big step since early 2019. We also had a great gal giving us the orientation on the trailer. Hannah was knowledgeable, very thorough,and just a real nice person to talk with. We really enjoyed the walk through with her. Thank you Oliver !!! It feel like just what I thought. A quality product easy to start our adventures in. All the Forum folks contributing info I truly thank you and will use you in the future. Sincerely. Tina and Mike Locker. Dream Girl is what I call our trailer and my Wife Tina !!!!!

Congratulations!!! We take delivery in 9 days! I didn’t think delivery would ever come. We ordered last February. I spent a great deal of time going through Oliver University. I highly recommend it if you haven’t already. As you already know, this forum is the best. The people on this forum really go the extra mile and help however they can. Congratulations again and enjoy the process. Carl

We don't even have our ollie yet, and I'm already making plans to change out the sink. Love what you've done here....and I hope that between the two of us, @MarkV and I have the skills to get this done. (He's in charge of cutting the fiberglass, though....) mb

If you're referring to sliding the screen - Consider spraying silicone lubricant on cloth and wiping the slide surfaces.

The Ford 3.5 Ecoboost has good turbo access - they are raised above the cylinder head: The new Tundra might require engine removal, they are below the head. I have had a Cummins 5.9 (super easy turbo access), and for most inline gas engines it is easy, but for many V engines servicing the turbo(s) is a nightmare. The old Audi All Road twin turbo V6 was this way, 20 hrs labor to change a turbo. (Audi shop rates are way higher than domestic dealers too). John Davies Spokane WA

I had to restring two of my blinds. One works well, the other is very difficult to open and close. The strings attach to springs at the bottom of the frame, I think I got the strings too tight on the one that is difficult. I’ve tried to use some lubricant but it didn’t help the situation. If I have time and some decent weather on this trip I’m going to take it apart to see if I can re-tie the strings a little looser. Otherwise, I’ll wait until we’re home at the end of the month. Mike

I will be praying for a full recovery, and strength for Tali.

Are you sure that the hot water bypass valve is turned so that the handle faces the rear of the trailer? The bypass valve is featured beginning about 1 minute into the winterization video. .... (now this is an example of the blind attempting to lead the blind 😉)

The closey thing is under the dinette seat nearest the bathroom. The black tank closey thing is there too, closer to the outside of the trailer. You can try some Vaseline on it. The cable is short so I’m not sure it would be the issue. Mike

We will certainly lift Prayers up for Steve and Tali. 🙏🏻🙏🏻 David & Kathy

The sliver heating duct that runs under the bed and next to the water pump has torn. I need to tape it together. What is the best tape to do this? Would duct tape work?

I think it got torn trying to raise it up to get to the fresh water tank drain valve that is located just under it. I am leaving this Friday so I will just use the aluminum HVAC tape for now as it is unlikely we will be using the heater and then come the spring check to see how it is holding up and repair it more then if needed. Thanks all. Imelda

Say your prayers because Steve and Tali need them. Mossey

And - that is Matt Duncan's (Oliver's Director of Marketing) favorite beer! You really know how to roll!

I’ve been searching for a solution to my shoe storage problem. I found this sea grass basket at Target and it was perfect. It will hold my shoes, it’s flexible, it’s versatile and it fits under the table.

Here are some cup holders that are more rigid/durable than a lot of the others on the market. The divider is Velcro and can be removed for use as a storage bucket. 4 can be placed above the sink with a 5-6 inches remaining on one side. The price is all over the place but $26 is the lowest I've seen for the large pictured below. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M4116L0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

It is interesting how many solutions people have come up with for this important task! When we wash dishes inside the trailer, we use this pink pan (10" wide x 13" long x 5.5" high), which fits into the sink for filling. (Ours is an older Elite II, with a smaller sink than current models.) Several years ago Susan had a medical procedure where they used this pink pan; afterwards the tech asked if she wanted it, because they cannot re-use the pans and they throw them away. The tech said "they are really good for camping!" How true! After putting warm soapy water in the pink pan, we put it onto the counter next to the sink. Then the sink is used for rinsing, and the clean dishes are placed into a Camco dish drainer, which sits on a drying mat on the stove. The dish drainer could be left in the sink to allow dishes to dry by evaporation. Susan prefers to use a dish towel and get the dishes put away right away. The dish drainer nests inside the pink pan, which nests inside some nested Rubbermaid pans, and we put them on the top shelf in the closet. We store the drying mat hanging on the wall adjacent to the trailer door, which allows it to dry. We hang it using hanging clothes pin clips, hanging on command hooks. We also use a single hanging clothes pin clip in the bathroom to hang our bath mat. What are the Rubbermaid pans, which are left from out tent camping days, used for? For most of our meals, we cook and eat outside, and the Rubbermaid pans can be used to carry plates, silverware, napkins, glasses, salt and pepper, etc, out to the table, all in one trip. We also put the dirty dishes in a Rubbermaid pan to carry to the dishwashing station. When we are camped on a BLM site where it is suitable to discard grey water, or at a campground where there are specific places to dump grey water, we prefer to do the dishes outside at the outdoor shower. First, the outdoor shower faucet has a lower flow rate than the kitchen faucet, using less water. Second, no water goes into the grey tank. We place some small collapsible tables near the outdoor shower, and we use four Rubbermaid pans. One has the dirty dishes, one has the soapy water (with biodegradable CampSuds), one pan collects the rinse water, and one pan has the dish drainer. This system works for us!

Yes, sir. I actually never changed it back after sterlizing the system a couple of days ago.