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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/17/2022 in all areas

  1. Perhaps Oliver should provide a Lithionics battery power off sequence that includes following individual manufacturers instructions for properly powering up and down the various DC appliances. Had the AquaGo been powered down prior to turning the batteries off and on, it would have powered up without issue.
    3 points
  2. As everyone has now has discovered, you should NEVER try to lift the trailer from in front of the tires. I tried that once just as George did and by the time I got the rear wheel off the ground, the front jack was at least 18 inches high. In the picture, if that jack had slipped off the sub frame, the jack stand would have punched up through the bottom of the hull. It might have taken out the right side bottom galley drawer as well. Best Practice would be to always place jack on the steel sub frame behind the tires. Keep trailer hooked to the truck with parking brake on. If it makes you feel better, chock the opposite side of the trailer. This will lift both tires off the ground and allow you to do your work. I recommend always using a jack stand (or two) under the lifted side. This way, if the jack slips or leaks down the jack stand will catch the weight without everything crashing down and ruining the rest of your day.
    3 points
  3. My wife and I pickup up our LEII, Hull 990 on 2/17/22. We spent the nearly a week at or near Oliver's operations in Hohenwald shaking down the systems before returning to our home in Dallas. Our Truma water heater worked as expected and we marveled at how it was "just like out tankless water heater at home". I winterized the trailer upon our return home, including installing the antifreeze option for the Truma water heater. Our LEII spent the next 6-7 weeks in our driveway while I made additions to it. On April 23, I moved the trailer to an enclosed storage facility approximately 30 miles north. We have three Lithionics batteries, for which I followed the recommendation to turn OFF the batteries during storage for 30 days or less. On approximatly May 8, I retrieved the trailer from the storage facility to prepare for departure on May 11 to South Carolina. Everything appeared to be in order prior to our departure, although I did NOT test the Truma water heater. After a full day of travel, late on the night of May 11 I discovered the Truma water heater would not operate. We had two full 20 lb. propane tanks, the stove easily lighted verifying the flow of propane. I verified the power switch on the Truma unit was ON, however, the interior control located to the right of the pantry did NOT display an amber light. No hot water. I contacted OTT Service the next day and was advised to check the fuse, which proved to be OK. I was also advised to check for 12 volts DC at the rear of the Truma remote control. Today I removed the access portal from the forward interior wall of the pantry to discover the Truma remote is apparently epoxied to the hull. A black cable with an RJ11 type telephone connector plugs into the rear of the Truma remote, making testing for 12 VDC difficult. I again called OTT Service, and after four hours have still not received a call back. I searched Google for "Truma service near me" (now Paris Mountain State Park, near Greenville, SC) and found the Truma Dealer Partner Locator on Truma.net. The first listing was for Retromodern Campers, in Pickens, SC. I phone them and spoke with Scott Whitmire, who indicate his company had recently become an authorized servicer for Truma and he had been installing Truma units in refurbished trailers, many from the 1940s and 1950s. After describing the symptoms of our Truma unit, Scott indicated he had encountered the same symptoms twice, once as recently as two weeks ago. He said he would call Truma for guidance. In about 10 minutes I received a return call from Scott, saying he had spoken with Truma and received the following directions: Power ON the Truma unit at the main power switch. On the interior mounted remote control, turn the dial to OFF Wait a few seconds, then turn the power to ON at the remote control The remote control unit should now display the amber light on the dial. I was pleasantly surprised the amber light came on. I went outside to the external shower (not wanting to fill the gray tank) and ran the water for less than a minute, when hot water began to flow. I then verified hot water was available at both the bathroom and kitchen faucets. Scott said as long as the power is not shutoff to the Truma unit, it should work just fine on the next trip. I point out that I expect it to be common practice for Oliver owners, many of whose whose trailers are equipped with lithium batteries, to power the batteries OFF between trips. This will necessitate performing the Truma re-boot process described above after each storage period in which the lithium batteries are turned OFF. I can find no reference to this re-boot process In the Truma section of the 2022 Oliver Optional Features Component Manual. I hope others with lithium batteries and Truma water heaters will recall call this procedure after they have turned OFF their lithium batteries during storage.
    2 points
  4. Yep - $1,000 (or whatever) is a high price for instant happiness - particularly when camping. Bill
    2 points
  5. Ralph, did you put screening on your fridge vents? That cuts air circulation. We always had them, but didn't routinely camp in high temps. Do you run fridge on propane or dc while driving? Are the fins clear or frosted over, and fridge not packed so tight that air can circulate? On our older dometic and norcold fridges,, the thermostat could be adjusted a bit by sliding the thermistor down the fin. I'm not sure how the new ones operate . Someone else will have to chime in on that. I'm guessing you have the norcold fridge. 45 is not a good temp for foods. Ok for produce, meats won't last as long. Any ground meat, and raw poultry, I'd put in the freezer. If it's 90 to 100 daytime, your fridge may take awhile to cool down a bit after nighttime temps. A fan inside the fridge can help circulate air. A clip on fan outside top vent while camped can help pull exhaust . You can also just open the top vent, for awhile, to allow more exhaust area.
    2 points
  6. The anode is intentionally made of a metal that erodes more easily than your tank material, to keep the tank whole. Your anode did its intended job. It doesn't matter whether you run the water heater on gas or electric. Dissimilar metals will create a chemical reaction called electrolysis that will eat away at metals. Better that it eats the anode than your tank. I suspect your hard water has more to do with the anode's rapid demise than anything else. Draining your water heater tank before storage will help it last longer, as well. And, as a bonus, you'll see how much your anode has eroded, and replace it as necessary. ($20 for an anode is much cheaper than replacing a water heater. Don't buy the super cheap ones. They sometimes aren't made to erode as quickly as they should.) You'll likely want to start using that filter to fill your tank.
    2 points
  7. I’m glad you found a solution. It sounds like Truma was pretty responsive. I know the on-demand units have advantages. The Truma option was not available when we ordered our Oliver in 2015 so we have the suburban 6 gallon hot water tank. It is simple and reliable. If I were ordering today, I would go with the traditional tank. Mike
    2 points
  8. Mike & Carol - I understand that it is very hot in Texas these days. Hope that you are not getting the worst of it and that you don't bring it to Alabama with you. See you soon! Bill
    2 points
  9. We continued our meander across Texas today for another one night stand just outside of Texarkana. We’re at Piney Point COE campground on Wright Patman lake. We’ve camped at this lake several times before at Clear Springs COE campground not too far from here (see page 9 of this thread). I’d say Clear Springs COE is a bit nicer and is much larger. It has a lot FHU sites if that’s what you need. This campground is smaller. Lots of tall pine trees, not like Texas Hill Country at all.
    2 points
  10. This is stellar service, kind of like the Oliver company. Note the time of the email. It was 7:18 AM (their time) when this got processed. And I only asked for one.😳 John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  11. We're getting close to the date that we can reserve our camp spot at the beautiful Lake Casitas in Ventura County. As soon as we can make a reservation I will post for you. Dates for our gathering this year will be October 20-24, give or take a few days. Save those dates and hope to see you there! Paula
    1 point
  12. What is the cost? For those of us who can't go to the rally, when will it be available for installation by Oliver?
    1 point
  13. Looks fun! And it might fit in with a trip to Paso we are planning for earlier that month.
    1 point
  14. We also chose the traditional water heater. Price and added complexity were the deciding factors. But thank you to @dhaig for providing useful info for those with Trumas and lithium!
    1 point
  15. Seems to be conflicting results on using the ez jack type ramp with the ez flex suspension. See below post from another thread. Maybe different ramp heights?
    1 point
  16. George, looks like a good job to me. I hate cotter pins, they always manage to slice open a finger.
    1 point
  17. So, correction.... I do have a CO/Smoke detector in rear by TV. It is functioning. The unit under the front dinette is the one which was indicating high CO. It is an "RV Safe; CO and Propane" detector. As CO is lighter than air, and as rear CO detector was not going off, I think it is a safe bet that the RV Safe unit was a false alarm or defective. I guess it could have been some other gas or propane, but I think unlikely. Will monitor with my sniffer when I need to turn gas back on..... getting cold again here. Thanks everyone for your input.
    1 point
  18. The anode is necessary whether you heat with gas or electric. You need to replace it to protect your tank from corrosion.
    1 point
  19. I was very impressed with Natures Head (NH) service. When I did my NH install I decided I wanted another hose flange to route a hose on the inside of the sink cabinet. I called them up and they shipped the flange the same day, and I had it 2 days later. The original NH was back ordered 3 months, so that took a long time to get, but getting spare parts are quick. Since my NH has only been in service for 9 month, I will probably wait another year before ordering a spare fan.
    1 point
  20. John As Mike D. mentioned above the part isn’t on their web site to purchase. I would suggest you call them as I had the same experience with fast service when I spoke to them on the phone. Two new fans overnight free of charge. If all else fails my offer to ship you one of my spares still stands. Mike
    1 point
  21. If you want to tinker there are several models to choose from. (The chart uses an underscore in place of the letter B.) I was considering trying one with greater CFM and pressure to see how they perform on those soggy days. Obviously Natures Head uses the lowest watt and noise level model. For example Model M can be purchased online.
    1 point
  22. I did not have a fan failure yet, but I wanted a spare. I called Natures Head last year and ordered an extra pee tank and some replacement screens. I noticed the fans are not shown on their web site for order. I asked them why, and they said they would send me two of them for free. They did just that, excellent customer service. Also, for those that don’t know, the fan is direct wired before the circuit breaker (at least it is on my trailer). It runs all the time if not disconnected. You can remove the fuse, but I disconnect mine with the connector plug at the toilet when not in use, but only if the toilet is extremely clean and dry.
    1 point
  23. I have successfully been able to run the AC (without easy start) using my Champion 2500 Dual Fuel generator on propane. It weighs about 40 lbs and is pretty easy to transport in the bed of the truck.
    1 point
  24. We carry a few of these in the camper and a couple in the TV. Convenient when you are only out for a few days and dont want to use the toilet. Just open and lay into the bowl. Double bag when done and throw in trash. They can be found at Cabelas and REI when in the road. https://www.amazon.com/Anywhere-Lightweight-Backpacking-Zip-Close-Towelette/dp/B089QRH56F/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=WWFQZX6G6AGQ&keywords=cleanwaste&qid=1652302465&sprefix=cleanwaste%2Caps%2C233&sr=8-3
    1 point
  25. A 2200 watt generator should run your air conditioner but with minimal to no headroom to charge your batteries as John pointed out. Assuming your LE II will have the inverter/charger and lithium batteries, even a 3,000 watt generator will likely NOT run the air conditioner as delivered, depending on how the inverter/charger comes configured when the LE II is delivered from the factory. The reason is the charger section of the inverter is probably set to a charge rate of 100 amps or higher. This means that the batteries will be charging at a 100 amp rate off the generator, which will require about 1,600 watts of continuous generator power not counting the air conditioner. If the inverter/charger is set to a 150 amps charge rate, it will require over 2,300 watts of continuous generator power just for charging the batteries. In both cases, a 3,000 watt generator would be unable to run the air conditioner and simultaneously charge the batteries without overloading. However, there is an easy adjustment that will allow you to run the air conditioner with either the 2,200 watt or 3000 watt generator. The inverter/charger allows the user to customize the charging current from zero to maximum in 5 amp increments. It only takes a minute to change the setting. If using a 2,200 watt generator, set the charging current to zero (i.e., turn the charger off) and start the air conditioner. If the air conditioner runs fine, you can turn the charger back on and gradually increase the charging rate from zero until the generator starts laboring or shuts off. Then you know how much is too much and set the charge rate accordingly. It may be only 10 amps. If you have a 3000 watt generator, you can do the same thing. Begin with the charger turned off and start the air conditioner, then increment the charging rate until the generator complains. You will probably be able to simultaneously run the air conditioner and charge the batteries at close to a 100 amp rate at the same time with a 3,000 watt generator. The best news is that the solar panels will continue to charge the batteries even if the inverter/charger charging rate is set to zero. My personal preference would lean toward the smaller, lighter, quieter 2,200 watt generator, turning off the charger section in the inverter temporarily, and relying on the solar panels to charge the batteries when I am running the air conditioner. Others please correct anything I got wrong here. Thanks.
    1 point
  26. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234545806758?hash=item369c04fda6:g:xjgAAOSwac1iLirK
    1 point
  27. Had the same thing happen…ended up having the door replaced.
    1 point
  28. If you're still looking for a door repair, bring the ollie by this place in Denver: https://calibremarine.com/ Calibre Marine Body Shop and Paint 5505 east 48th ave Denver co 80216 303-404-7440 They do all sorts of fiberglass work, and were recommended by several places when we were looking for someone to buff out our Trillium 1300. I was amazed at how high the quality of workmanship was when we picked up the trailer. You could literally see yourself in the trailer it shined so nicely. When I asked how they pulled it off so nicely, Les the owner matter-of-factly said that he just has one of his guys hand wet-sand the whole thing, no power tools, because it makes for a better finished product. They also do fiberglass repair. If you go there tell him that the guy with the little green trillium sent you, he'd never worked on one before and it was less than a year ago, I expect he'll remember.
    1 point
  29. First Road Trip comments. Overall our GL 450 and Oliver proved to be a very nice combination! I was somewhat worried about the TW (Limited to 600lbs) but actual TW measurements using a TW Scale show 580 lbs loaded. The combination worked exceptionally well, smooth and straight as could be. Unfortunately we were in a hurry and found ourselves cruising at 70-75 MPH, which is to fast, IMHO. We were getting 13 Plus MPG and found more than enough power through the mountains of KY/Tenn. We need experience the normal problems Hitching Up, but after several attempts we settled into a workable procedure that seems to work. Our Anderson Hitch has the newest Updated Parts, i.e. Bat Wing/Ball etc. The first Test Drive ( 1 mile) did produce a Light Feel in the Front Axle of the GL 450, so I tighten the Chain Adjusters exactly 1/2 turn tighter. To my surprise this produced a very satisfactory feel/ride. I noticed the previous owner did not have any Lube on the Chain Adjuster Threads (dry) which made them very hard to turn. I put light grease on the threads which made them easy to turn, even when fully loaded. I was surprised that only a 1/2 Turn made a Night & Day difference in the Weight Transfer to the Front Axle of the TV, I wouldn't have expected this! I was very skeptical about the Anderson Hitch when we were first introduced to it, but after using it for a while I guess it is OK. However, if another option was available I probably would take it. This is because of the difficulty Hitch it up! Other WD Hitches are easier to Hook Up in my opinion.
    1 point
  30. This is the fabulous thread with tons of information...BUT...and I know this is a female thing: I just can't wrap my mind around composting poop in a toilet vs a regular flush toilet. Emptying the black tank doesn't seem unreasonable to me, but composting....shivers. Thank you all for such wonderful pictures and explanations.
    1 point
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