Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/23/2022 in all areas

  1. @Brian and Brandelyne, thanks for the kind comments. I was concerned that I had caused you alarm about the degree of the ventilation problem. I don't think it so serious it should cause concern over your pending delivery. A bit of a nuisance with available solutions. I apparently gave you the impression I have owned multiple trailers. I have not. Our Oliver is our first RV. Not having had any prior experience with RVs, I did a lot of research before selecting our Oliver. A significant factor in our selection of our LEII was the information provided on this owners' forum. The postings appeared to me authentic, with no apparent influence by the Oliver organization, including postings of both criticism and praise of the product. The participants in this forum have been very helpful in my RV education. I was also quite impressed by their ingenuity in making improvements and modifications to their trailers. I try to return the favor. Don
    4 points
  2. @dhaig Don - First, let me say, in no way was I implying that what you were doing was unnecessary. You work, as well as the original poster’s, was nothing short of amazing. What a great idea and well executed. I especially like the pouch you created. Like you, I have owned my share of trailers and have, and still am, doing my due-diligence pre-purchase to my LE II. Our awning windows in the Airstream certainly were not perfect and needed to be closed in certain conditions and because of where our Fantastic Fan was located, we couldn’t get a shroud over it. The Airstream service center tried two different brands and they wouldn’t fit because it was installed too close to the antenna. This was after we were assured we could get one installed and made the trip to the service center. Needless to say, that was disappointing. At least it had a water sensor that would close when it rained. I would also like to thank you for such a well documented post and reply to my concerns. Not everyone would take the time to thoroughly explain the conditions that you have experienced to want to implement this work-around. As @SeaDawg mentioned, the popular European design awning windows are acrylic and will scratch and cloud up but they are double pane and very well insulated. We have experienced many different Forums (off-reading, Amateur Radio, Airstream, etc) and this has been the most helpful group of people I have ever experienced. Thank you for keeping the dialog going in a kind, professional manner. Regards, Brian
    4 points
  3. in most rain we've encountered it usually only affects one side and not the other, we open the "dry" side and the bathroom window, turn the fans on and haven't had a problem. I do like the louvers I've seen in the forum and will probably make a set at some point, but it's not a real high priority since there always seems to be a dry side and when there's not you can always open the bath window and just dry off what little comes in after the storm.
    4 points
  4. No, the bad bypass valve still felt normal when opening and closing it. The faulty seal inside the bypass valve wasn’t noticeable until I removed the valve. The new CAMCO bypass valve is installed and works well so far. One nice little detail of this CAMCO valve is that the positions are labeled (open or bypass). And I changed all water lines into and out of the Truma to braided flexible supply lines and brass fittings to eliminate the issue of breakage of the rigid plastic connections that some owners have had. Camco 37463 3-Way By-Pass Valve Replacement - Brass https://a.co/d/8qur0uz
    4 points
  5. Our old school 2008 has one awning window, in the back (emergency egress window.) No longer available. When we have a torrential downpour, we close the windows (even the ones with the old louvered vents), open the bath vent and hooded fantastic vent, and run the big fan, on higher than normal. We had about 12 inches of rain in 24 hours last summer, one day. We survived, and the trailer was dry. In lighter rains, well leave the manual awning extended a bit, and open the two windows we have with louvered vents. In our experience over the many years, with a number of campers,, awning windows are not a total panacea, but they can help in certain conditions. As can adjustment of the jacks, to send the rain to the closed window side, or to the rear, etc. Depending on how you are oriented to the storm, and wind driven rain. Most awning windows today are acrylic, European style,, prone to scratching and clouding/etching, and air leakage. I never worry about the marine bath, if I leave the bath vent and bath window open. If it gets wet, a microfiber towel solves everything, quickly.
    4 points
  6. This has been our experience. We had the double paned acrylic windows in our Black Series HQ15. We had a lot of thin delicate scratches on the windows. I definitely prefer double paned glass windows.
    3 points
  7. Here in Eastern Canada, RAM dealer has many 1/2 ton truck in inventory with 5000$ incentive on them. But if you want a HD truck, you will pay the MSRP. I bought my RAM 3500 Laramie in last June at the MSRP price…..with the exchange rate, you could have a great deal here……
    3 points
  8. @Brian and Brandelyne As you have likely seen in the comments, ventilation during rain is an issue to some owners and not to others. I offer the follow comments based on our experience owning our LEII since mid-February. Since I have expended my time and about $50 on the louvered ventilators, you can count me among the owners who want better ventilation capabilities. The week we took delivery there was constant, heavy rain in Hohenwald and surround areas. We also encountered heavy rains between Hohenwald and Dallas during our 10 day return trip. Anytime there is more than light rain water can readily enter partially open sliding windows. There were several nights when we had opened the windows slightly open (3-4 inches) for ventilation and were awakened by heavy rain and water entering the cabin through the open windows. This is especially noticeable when the open window is above the bed where one is sleeping. We have only a curb side awning, which I have tried extending 1-½ to 2 feet when rain is falling (or expected) to shelter the partially open curb side window. When the awning is extended this short distance it generally prevents rain from entering the partially open window. However, a large quantity of water accumulates in the awning. I had expected the rainwater to run off the ends of the awning, but this was not so. I was alarmed to see how much water was held by the awning and became concerned it would damage the awning. Our awning also has a motion sensor, which will automatically retract the awning if winds are moving it. We have had the awning retract during thunderstorms. During another trip, we were camping in western NC, near the Blue Ridge Parkway. We had left our dog in the trailer while we went hiking, as she was not permitted on the trails. Rain was not expected and temperatures were mild, so we left windows partially open on both sides of the trailer. About 2 hours later an intense thunderstorm appeared. We had small umbrellas with us, but still got rather wet. Upon returning to the trailer, we found wet beds from rain entering the windows. On the same trip, we were camping at Paris Mountain SP, near Greenville, SC. We received heavy rain a couple of nights we were there. So we have become cautious about having windows left partially open. I had read many comments on the forum about the need for ventilation to prevent condensation. We have used the Maxx fan and the bathroom fan to help circulate air in the trailer. When operating these fans, fresh air must enter from somewhere and the trailer has few places to admit any significant volume of outside air, hence opening windows becomes necessary. Consequently, not being a keen on sleeping in a wet bed, I was very happy to see the forum post by @csevel with her clever solution for providing ventilation, especially during rainfall. Thus, I decided to follow the louver ventilator design to have a solution available for a problem I expect to encounter regularly. The cost was relatively low and the solution appears likely to improve ventilation, with lower risk of rain water entering the cabin.. I agree that the sliding windows on our Oliver are more likely to admit rain water when opened than are awning type windows, which tilt out from the bottom. The tilt of our sliding windows further aggravates the problem, as there is no protection from rain falling directly on the lower part of the windows. Also, I have read many forum posts about the need to keep the weep holes along the lower window track clear to prevent water accumulating in the window tracks and spilling into the cabin. I have also read more than a few forum posts about various over window awning/hood designs by Oliver owners. I suspect many of these designs result from experiences similar to ours. There are also many forum posts about Oliver owners installing EZ Gutters over the window, as I also recently installed. I can think of no reason to install these gutters over the windows than to reduce the amount of rain flowing over the windows. I was aware of the vulnerability of the Oliver sliding windows to water entry prior to placing our order. The risk seemed manageable. I was also aware through my due diligence research before our Oliver purchase of very significant water leakage problems common to most RVs due to structural integrity issues. The Oliver construction, with no major seams on the roof appeared to me likely to prevent most of the water leakage issues experience with other brands. I have found reports of water leaks in Oliver trailers to be quite rare. If Oliver offered a choice of window styles, sliding or awning, I would likely choose awning, assuming that option was also double pane insulated glass, which I understand most are not. I am not aware of any Oliver trailers ever having awning windows. This was not a deterrent to our ordering an Oliver trailer. We are happy with our purchase. Regards, Don
    3 points
  9. For anyone following this, I just got a response from Dexter. If the drum temp goes over 200 degrees F in normal driving conditions it should be investigated. Something solid to hang your hat on.
    3 points
  10. Not a Truma problem but the issue did manifest itself as very low HOT water flow at all faucets. Problem of low hot water flow was the same whether on city water or using pump & fresh tank. COLD water flow was good at all faucets. And I’ve done the decalcification/cleaning process annually. Did some troubleshooting and was initially thinking it was a Truma problem because flow to the hot side of all the faucets was good if I bypassed the Truma at the bypass valve on the Truma cold water inlet. Fearing a very expensive Truma repair, I dug a little further. Opening the Truma drain lever and removing the Truma screen filter, and turning the bypass valve back to normal operating position, and I saw very little flow emptying out of the Truma drain. There really isn’t much inside the Truma on the inlet at that point to even get clogged up, it’s just a direct port into the screen filter, so low flow draining out pointed back to a problem at the plumbing going into the Truma. I removed the bypass valve and found the rubber seal inside had degraded and swollen (see photo), restricting the flow in the normal position. Found a CAMCO replacement on Amazon that’ll be here tomorrow. Hopefully the seal on this CAMCO one holds up better than the original one (different valve manufacturer). I really think a lot of these plumbing components aren’t tested with the chemicals using for RV maintenance like the anti-freeze winterizing solution, or vinegar/water or bleach/water sanitizing solutions, leading to issues with degradation of the seals. A pretty easy replacement of the valve but I’m also going to use this opportunity to redo the cold inlet and hot outlet plumbing connections on the back of the Truma to change to stainless braided flexible supply lines. Not a fan of the rigid plastic connections used by Oliver initially in those locations. Some owners have had the plastic hot water PEX fitting break at the brass TEE on the Truma outlet. With all the bouncing down the road, and thermal expansion and contraction when using the Truma, I want flexible connections there like some of those other owners have upgraded to. Camco bypass valve link to Amazon: https://a.co/d/eGqkhrA
    2 points
  11. !!!! DO NOT USE THE JACK OR JACK STAND ANYWHERE ON THE FIBERGLASS !!! The jack points are on the galvanized steel subframe at the locations indicated by the stickers. Those are the main frame rails that support the trailer. ALWAYS jack on the steel subframe.
    2 points
  12. We’ve never had any issue. We leave our Maxx Air fan open (even in heavy rain storms) and that’s been suffice.
    2 points
  13. And, we all know that meeting Anita is worth every penny of that $4,000!😍 Bill
    2 points
  14. Ford HD trucks stacked up in a KY race track (one of many lots): https://www.thedrive.com/news/unfinished-ford-trucks-keep-piling-up-in-massive-lots-visible-from-space Anybody who orders a new truck should be prepared to wait a long time. I would also be very wary of any non-refundable deposits! Does anyone know how the other manufacturers are doing in terms of unsold truck inventory that is waiting for parts? John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  15. Talked to this Ford dealer in Iowa before buying the Tundra and he will order a F150 or Ranger or Maverick for 3% under MSRP. He will also order a F250 for 2% under MSRP. Last time I talked to him was late 2021. Granger Ford https://www.grangerford.com/ Contact Zach 1 - Our documentation fee is $180. 2 - There are NO mandatory add ons. 3 - There is a Non-Refundable $1000 deposit due at order. 4 - We will get you an electronic signature document with options, pricing, and details for your signature before placing the order. 5 - We do not participate in courtesy deliveries to other dealerships. 6 - We do accept trades! Because of the volatile trade market we can give you a trade value 30 days from delivery. Found this information on the Ford Ranger Forum last year: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/3-under-invoice-2022-ford-ranger-order.16068/
    2 points
  16. Unless something has changed, our shorty elites have no outside accessible storage, other than the bumper space for sewer hose. I'd say a 7000 pound tow rating would be fine with the shorty elite. Too close to maximum with the larger elite 2, as @scubarx said, unless you're willing to really put your trailer and gear on a serious diet, and stick with it. I'm happier if tow vehicle weighs more than loaded trailer, and trailer weight is the old thumb rule of 80 per cent of towing capacity. Can it work? Sure, in flats and mild hills. You won't likely be happy with a maxed out weight trailer behind any vehicle. It just is not as enjoyable. Or nearly as safe.
    2 points
  17. I'd like to be able to keep the windows open on humid, rainy days but we do OK by keeping the main cabin fan open and running and opening the bathroom vent. Often we can open the rear window because it is straight, not slanted, so the rain doesn't come in as much as the side windows. Paula
    2 points
  18. It depends on whether your Sequoia has the big engine and the tow package. Lots of Elite II owners tow with Tundras and Sequoias. We plan to tow our Elite II with a 2019 Tundra, with the 5.7LV8 and the tow package. If your Sequoia is comparably equipped, you should be o.k. But, you will need an Andersen weight distribution hitch, the only one that works well with Olivers. The most significant limiting factor will likely be your payload capacity, which should be listed on a sticker inside the driver's door. A loaded Elite II will likely have a tongue weight of between 550 and 600 lbs. Tongue weight is added to occupant and cargo weight to determine total payload. Don't exceed the payload capacity listed on your sticker.
    2 points
  19. @John E Davies John - I use one when we travel, especially out west. After a week in Yuma, my hose connectors were showing calcium build up and a friend in Lake Havasu referred me to the one he uses. It works great though it is not small. Uses standard table salt and it is easy to flush and recharge. Here is the link to the one I have. I plan to have it ready to go when my LE II gets delivered. Brian
    2 points
  20. It’s not an issue. We have the maxxfan open almost always as well as the bath fan. That provides ventilation. Sometimes during really hard rains we shut the bath fan because some of the rain bouncing off the roof can make the bath floor damp. If it isn’t a hard rain, keeping a window cracked is something else we do. Mike
    2 points
  21. Friends from Texas found the same type of mark-up on a Ford F-150 in Texas. They were temporarily working in Maine and bought the same Ford F-150 for the MSRP at a dealer in Maine.
    2 points
  22. Maybe consider a fly and drive? Now is one of the worst times I have ever seen to purchase a new or even a used vehicle. Low to no dealer inventory, long wait times for new orders and all the crazy market increases. No fun. Wishing you the best in your search!
    2 points
  23. Just bought our TV for our new Ollie with an early Feb 2023 delivery date. Ram 2500 Hemi Laramie 4x4 with the same 6'-4" bed and paid under MSRP in the Phoenix Area. The Cummins is more expensive but also avail at or below MSRP. Don't let them stick it to you, there are decent dealers out there.
    2 points
  24. Carmax can be a good option. I bought one car from them, a 2006 MINI Cooper S that was four years old. Low mileage and fair price. The day I picked it up I went straight to the BMW/MINI dealer and paid $120 for a complete bumper to bumper inspection resulting in a page of issues, mostly worn out seals and gaskets and a few other things. The next day I drove it back to Carmax and showed them the inspection results. They honored their 30 day warranty and fixed everything, about $2,300 of repairs. Unless you buy something that is only a year or two old or has very few miles I would recommend a good inspection and a possible return visit to Carmax. Mike
    2 points
  25. Fly up, drive home….. screw those rapacious markup dealers! John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  26. We were accustomed to separate single beds in our pop-up A-frame. Since picking up our Elite I Hull # 1209 on August 11, we are trying a single bed across the back for my wife, that we leave in place. I use the dinette bed across from the galley, putting it up each evening. This keeps us from having to crawl over each other during the night. It also creates more space by not having the large dinette and opens up a seat on each side in front of her bed. I simply made a plywood support and use the small fiberglass extension that was in the closet. The 4 small side cushions are the middle of the bed and we have a 3 inch memory foam over the cushions that extends across the back. By no means will this work for everyone, but we're not very large so it seems to be working well for now. Having lots of small pillows, that I recovered, helps for lounging around in the evening while watching a movie or reading. The valances are on 1x2 poplar with the fabric stapled to it and velcro holds them in place very well so far. I borrowed Foy's ceiling panel design. I did have him make me one of his beautiful shower mats! Ron
    1 point
  27. I recently undertook fabrication of a set of louvered ventilators for the three side windows of our LEII, following the excellent design posted by @csevel. I want to share some lessons learned for others who may want to fabricate a set for their Ollies. The window vent consists of two main parts, a purchased louver ventilator and a custom made acrylic mounting plate, shaped to fit a partial window opening, into which the louver is mounted. I executed the fabrication a bit differently from @csevel. Since I wanted to produce a set of three louvered ventilators, I made a template using 1/4" medium density fiberboard (MDF) for the mounting plate. I, too, used one of the window screens as a guide for the edge contours of the template to match the sliding windows and frames. The final mounting plate template is 16-3/8" tall and 6-5/8" wide at the midpoint. The rectangular opening is 3-½" wide x 12-1/16" tall. After tracing the screen contour for the vertical edges of the template, I clamped the window screen to the MDF and used the screen as a template for my router to follow, to cut the shape. Cutting external edges of MDF template I had purchased the White Water Plastic 5-Slotted Louvered Ventilators from Amazon, although they are now shown as unavailable. I recommend searching for other sources, such as West Marine. It appears the same product is sold under multiple brand names. I used one of the purchased louvered ventilators to determine the size of the rectangular opening required in my MDF template and centered the outline for the opening. Note the rear of the louvered ventilator is tapered, so the opening needs to be large enough to accept the entire rear projection through the MDF mounting plate template, with the flange of the louver meeting the mounting plate. The rear projection also has two reinforcing ribs on each of the long sides and one each on top and bottom, which require notching the sides of the opening for clearance. To cut out the rectangular opening in the MDF template, I first tried to use my router, but found it very difficult to control the router and tried various guides, unsuccessfully. Achieving accurate cuts freehand with the router was also very difficult. In retrospect, using a router table to cut the opening rectangle would not be too difficult if done with straight outer edges, prior to cutting the outer edge curves. Frustrated by my lack of skill with the router, I switched to using a scroll saw to cut the rectangular opening in the mounting plate. This requires drilling a starter hole inside the rectangle, then inserting the scroll saw blade. The scroll saw proved very useful in making accurate cuts to make the MDF template. I tried to cut the rectangular opening as accurately as possible, which was relatively easy to do. If a scroll saw is not available, I recommend using a high quality hand held jigsaw as another option. After cutting the outer curved edges and rectangular opening in the template, I sanded the edges smooth and inserted one of the louvers into the template to test for fit. I used blue painter's tape to hold the louver in the template while testing the fit in the window opening. Test fitting the MDF template and louver I inserted the MDF template and louver into the window opening to verify the curved side abutting the window fit closely, with as small a gap as possible. I made slight adjustments to the template with a belt sander mounted upside down on a work table. I also verified the template could be inserted into the window track while inside the trailer, without requiring removal of the window shades or screen. While inside the trailer, position the mounting plate and louver through the window opening and tilt the top topward the upper screen track. The mounting plate is first inserted into the upper track of the screen, then placing the bottom of the plate into the lower window track, then moving the top of the mounting plate from the screen track into the window track. Sounds confusing, but works easily after a few tries. When the mounting plate template is inserted into the window track and pressed against the window edge, there is space above and below the plate and the window track. Once the mounting plate template is in the window track, it should be lifted slightly as the window is moved to shut against the plate. This should result in the curved edges of the mounting plate mating closely with the curved outer edge of the window, top and bottom. Closing the window against the mounting plate secures it in place, seated against the vertical edge of the track and the edge of the window. After several trial fittings and minor adjustments to the template, I was satisfied the template mounting plate would fit snugly to minimize the chance of water leaking in at the junction with the window. I did all of the trial fittings on the street side window above the bed. Only then did I test the template in the other two similar windows, which is when noticed the edges of the three windows are not uniform. The street side aft window had some black sealant projecting from between the two panes of glass. On the other windows, the sealant material does not extend from the edge of the two panes of glass. When fitted against the outer pane of glass in each of the three windows, the mounting plate template proved to be a snug fit, when carefully inserted. As a final test of the fitment of the mounting plate template, I tested to verify each of the window screens would close. Initially, they would not. The rear of the louver ventilator projects one inch from the rear of the front flange, causing interference with the screen and preventing its closure. Since the louvers do not have any screen built in to prevent entry of insects, operation of the standard window screens is essential. @csevel indicated her screens would close with the louver in place. I suspect my louvers and hers may not be exactly the same depth. Or, since our trailers are five model years apart, there may be differences in our windows. My solution to resolve the screen interference issue was to reduce the rear projection of the louver ventilator 3/8" by: Removing 1/8" off the rear projection of the louver ventilators using a table saw; Fabricating spacers from 1/4" thick acrylic sheet to insert between the mounting plate and the front flange of the louver ventilators. Removal of 1/8" of depth from louver ventilator 1/4" Spacers dry fitted to rear of front flange of louvered ventilators In the photo above, all three louvered ventilators have had their depth reduced by 1/8" and 1/4" spacers dry fitted prior to cementing in place. The spacers are 9/16" wide, surrounding the rear projection of the louver ventilators. (The protective paper coating is still in place on the spacers in the photo.) Side view of spacers bonded to rear of the flange of a louver ventilator The spacers were bonded to the rear of the flange using acrylic cement applied using a small application bottle with a needle applicator (from small box in photo below). After dry fitting, I cemented the spacers to the louvers, starting with the top and bottom, while the side spacers were in place loose, without cement. After the top and bottom spacers were firmly cemented, I cemented the side pieces. I found using spring clamps to hold the spacer pieces in place worked well while the cement set. I test fitted the louver ventilators inserted into the template mounting plate to verify the interference problem with the screen was resolved. The screens cleared with very little space to spare. Fabrication of Mounting Plates Having completed the mounting plate template, I next made a copy of the template, also from 1/4" MDF, as a backup in the event I damaged the master template. Making a copy also served as a dry run for routing the acrylic sheet. Using double sided woodworking tape. I fastened the template copy to a sheet of 1/8" black acrylic sheet, in preparation for cutting the first mounting plate. (Use the woodworking tape sparingly- 6 pieces 1 inch in length is sufficient. Otherwise, it can be difficult to remove, with adhesive left behind.) MDF template on acrylic for routing From experimentation cutting scrap acrylic sheet with the router, I had found the router bit would quickly melt the acrylic sheet. To avoid melting the acrylic sheet, I removed the excess acrylic material from around the template and the rectangular cutout, leaving only 1/16" to 1/8" of material to be removed by the router bit. I was then able to obtain smooth edges following the template for final trimming with the router. With the template attached by woodworkers tape to the 1/8" acrylic sheet, I used the scroll saw to cut the acrylic, keeping the saw kerf 1/16" to 1/8" away from the template. This freed the first piece of acrylic from the larger sheet and removed excess acrylic material from around the template. I mounted my router, with a 1/2" flush trimming bit, to a small router table. I then proceeded to trim the remaining acrylic sheet from around the template, both the outside edges and the rectangular cutout. After routing the first mounting plate, I repeated the same steps two more times, attaching the template to the acrylic sheet, trimming away the excess material using the scroll saw, then making the finish trimming using the router mounting in the table. When I had routed all three mounting plates, I lightly sanded the edges of the acrylic mounting plates to remove the sharp edges. Assembly of louver ventilators to mounting plates The louver ventilators with spacers attached are dry fitted to the mounting plates. Once satisfactory fit is verified, the parts are ready to be cemented using the acrylic cement. NOTE: The louver ventilators for the Street side windows are oriented opposite those for use on the Curb side. Position the mounting plates properly to abut the windows and insert the louver ventilators with their louvers on the outside and the louver openings facing down. I found it easiest to start by cementing one of the short ends of the louver ventilators to the mounting plate, using a couple of spring clamps to hold the parts together until the cement formed a firm bond, which takes about 5 minutes. Proceed to cement successive sides of the louver ventilator to the mounting plate, one side at a time, applying spring clamps until the cement cures. Use the needle applicator to apply cement at the intersections of the parts. Allow the cemented parts to cure overnight. The acrylic cement is very effective at welding the acrylic parts together, producing a very rigid assembly. Completed set of louvered ventilators and mounting plates After assembly, I added the same rubber edge trim recommended by @csevel to the edge of the mounting plate which meets the window edge. This trim seems to conform well to close any gaps between the windows and the mounting plates. The completed units are quite rigid and nest reasonably well. I set the width at 6-5/8" for two reasons: To yield three mounting plates from a 24" x 24" sheet of acrylic To keep the mounting plates and louvers as small as possible to facilitate storage in the trailer. I made a pouch to contain the louver ventilators to make it easier to store them without concern for damage to them or to other parts of the trailer. I had leftover car headliner material, which is relatively thin, with a foam backing, to which Velcro straps readily attach. Summary This project, which I first thought rather simple, provided several challenges. I spent much more time than expected to achieve an acceptable result. Given the extended drought and high temperatures in Texas, I have not had an opportunity to test the effectiveness of the vents, nor how well they keep rain out. In a week we depart for a two and a half week trip to Colorado to photograph fall color. I expect we will encounter some test conditions in the mountains. I hope this information is useful. Please feel free to contact me with questions. Regards, Don
    1 point
  28. Compare what you watched him do to these steps: 1- After the hub has been replaced and the spindle nut is started, spin the hub with one hand while tightening the nut with the other. 2- When the nut is hand tight, the hub will still turn but with possibly some resistance. 3- Using a socket of the appropriate size, tighten the nut until the hub can no longer be turned by hand. This process is to properly seat the bearings into their races. 4- Back the nut off with the socket until you can once again turn it by hand. DO NOT allow the hub to spin during this step. If it does, retighten with the socket. 5- Tighten the nut by hand until it stops. BACK OFF the nut to where you can insert the cotter pin. This could be up 1/8 turn. 6- Spin the hub to make sure it’s not too tight. Install the cotter pin. Note: Some Dexter spindle/nut combinations do not use a cotter pin but rather a spindle nut retainer which I much prefer. Same steps apply.
    1 point
  29. @dhaig Don - You did not cause undue concern. When I am making a large purchase like this I tend to look into everything I can find and determine if it is actually an “issue” or it is something that just has to be dealt with in any number of ways. If I find something that is a design flaw, I would expect it to be rectified by a re-design and others may have to make changes on their own. Your extensive knowledge and research of the RV industry probably led to my assumption you had owned more than one RV or trailer. Enough of that though… Where are you in North Texas? I was stationed in OKC, OK for 10 years and made quite a few friends in N. TX, mostly Dallas and out to Midlothian, TX. My friends daughter went to U N TX around the Denton area. I like the area but way too crowded for me. From the looks of your map, you tend to travel in the SE US. We are in TN, about two hours from Hohenwald so that makes it nice shopping for the Oliver. Take care, safe travels, Brian
    1 point
  30. I went to winterize my trailer yesterday and my valve was very hard to move. I think a up grade is in future. Thanks for you help in identifying this issue. I hate to be lazy but could you share the info on the lines as well. I like the modification. Swamp
    1 point
  31. For what it's worth, here's my story. In mid-2000 I started shopping for my tow vehicle. I narrowed it down to what I have now, and started shopping nationwide using Cars.com. Using email cut down on the silly salesmen antics but sometimes I did have to talk on the phone. I had to ask each dealer to send me a build sheet of the truck I was looking at because sometimes their listings weren't accurate. I finally got my deal in Benton, Arkansas at Everett GMC. Couldn't have been easier. I got a one-way flight from San Francisco to Little Rock and stayed one night in a downtown hotel. (Had a good steak dinner that night too!) My salesman picked me up the next morning at the hotel and drove me 30 minutes to the dealership. I completed a little bit of paperwork, got the keys, and began a fun road trip back to California. Of course, California being California, the DMV required all sorts of stupid stuff (including a smog on a brand new truck!) but I got it registered without a hitch. I think I saved about $4k getting it out of state. Yes, the flight and hotel and fuel on the way home took some of that away, but it was a great trip. I even stopped for a factory tour at Oliver and met Anita. So, the point is, don't be afraid of looking out of state. You might just get a great deal.
    1 point
  32. Just came back with an Elite II from Hohenwald to the West Coast (took the long way). Had a few issues with the trailer but nada with our 2008 Tundra with 5.7 V-8 and tow package. I’ve owned and towed with bigger trucks but the reliability of a Toyota is so good that I was very happy that it towed the trailer so easily. If I buy another truck it will be a Tundra.
    1 point
  33. Sorry to hear about your Tundra's transmission troubles. I'm not sure about the 2019 Tundra, but the 2020 and 2021 did not have transmission oil coolers from what I read. Some techs gave you terrible advice to ignore the warning indicators. Hope the F150 works out for you! 👍 Our 2016 SR5 5.7L Gen2 Tundra (no SC) had a transmission oil cooler and did not have any cooling issues towing our LE2 from NC to many states out west including CO. The new Gen3 2022 Tundra has a transmission oil cooler for the 10 speed transmission with the 3.5L twin turbo V6. Really like this TV towing our LE2. We have been getting 15 1/2MPG in NC & TN. Got our best MPG last week in hilly and flat terrain of 17MPG towing Ollie on 4 lane highways. Found the Tundra is happy towing in 7th gear in hilly terrain & flat terrain on interstates with cruise set @ 61MPH and engine around 2200RPM. Best fuel economy so far not towing is 24.5MPG on a round trip from Charlotte NC to Richmond VA, driving mostly interstates at the posted speed limit.
    1 point
  34. Btw,,we're average sized people, im 5'4" or so, husband 5' 11" or so, and the elite has served us well for 15 seasons. Do I wish we had a queen bed instead of full? Yes, of course, but we don't. Plenty of storage, for us. Everything we need, nothing we don't, as far as equipment. We camp with one tiny dog, under 10 pounds. She sleeps on the small dinette cushion seat. We store three bins of stuff under the bed, as we keep the large dinette made into a bed, all the time.
    1 point
  35. Catching this thread late but… Had a 2019 Platinum CrewMax, 5.7, Magnusen Supercharger, 3/1” level with Bilsteins and FS Airbags, 35’s on Method 18x9” rims. Loved the truck. Plenty of power and torque. 2019 Elite II (hull 536) lightly loaded with close to max in the Tundra cargo bed. Andersen WDH. No issues towing regardless of terrain (other than 9mpg avg). But…on a longish loop from NC out to Denver and back we kept throwing the “transmission temperature is high” fault. Happened maybe 6 times. Several Toyota techs along the way said “just ignore it”. Finally, after 6 weeks traveling, the entire dash lit up. All kinds of faults with trailer brake control the most annoying. Stopped for 30 minutes hoping for an ECU reset but no luck. Drove the last 150 miles with manual trailer brake and lots of yellow icons on the dash. Next day at the Toyota dealer they said the code required a transmission replacement. 45k miles. And…no warranty coverage as it was modified. The SC was installed at the same dealership and at the time (19k miles) the service reps said it would not affect the 5 year/50k drivetrain warranty. Silly me. I traded for a 2021 F150 Powerboost the next day. Still love the looks of the Tundra but think they lost the thread when they took the transmission cooler off the Gen3’s. And you can argue that they are engineered so that in the unusual case they throw a fault code, its replace only…no repair. Not sure on the latest V6 but if it performs like the Ford’s eco boost it should be a hit. Love the engine, like having the battery and generator on the powerboost. Don’t need to travel with the Honda 2200, 11-12mpg on the way out (again) to Denver from NC. And the 10speed transmission is much smoother than the ‘19 Tundra’s 6 speed. I’m sure the next gen 10 speed on the Tundra is great as well. Still early days on the Ford and towing but so far the hottest the transmission fluid has gotten is 212degrees. I’m guessing the Tundra was flashing a warning at 250 or so.
    1 point
  36. According to Toyota, the 2023 Sequoia (in 2WD) will have a maximum tow rating of 9,520 pounds. A 4WD version of this third-row SUV will only be able to tow about 9,100 pounds. The full-size, truck-based SUV with the highest tow rating is Stellantis' Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer. The 2022 and earlier models were limited to 7000 pounds and maybe a bit more. That’s cutting it close on safety and capability.
    1 point
  37. Well, that is easy enough to test, just spit on the drum and if it sizzles and steams, it is too hot. I have intentionally overworked the brakes going half a mile down a 8% grade with the trailer brakes fully operating (manual mode) without letting up. I saw temps up near 200 on one drum only, and I could smell the brake linings. NOTE if you smell "hot brakes" never ever stick a finger on the drum or rotor. Ouch. FYI: Some folks may not know, when going down long grades, use your lower GEARS and brake hard to slow down then let up and coast a while to allow them to cool. Do not ride them all the way down.... So what is your next step with your brakes? You sound pretty unhappy to me. ;( John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  38. I have seen several posts and comments about venting during rain and solutions around it. As a new owner in waiting, I have to ask; is this really a problem? I mean, when it rains is there an issue with getting ventilation into the trailer without soaking everything? It is starting to concern me. I also have to say, when we were first looking at the Oliver I noticed the sliding windows and commented how our current (Airstream) windows were awning windows, i.e. they pushed out from the bottom and how much we loved having the windows open in the rain. Every major manufacturer has moved to awning-style windows and I am sure it is for a good reason. Someone please tell me this is a non-issue and more of a nice-to-have. Thanks - Brian
    1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. Sorry about your Little Guy. The Elite 2 has an exterior "basement" compartment in the back, accessible from the street side. It'll hold 1 long milk crate and 1 regular milk crate with a little room to spare for a few other things. That's where we keep our hoses, cables, electrical adapters, and a box of disposable gloves. I also keep a couple pairs of shoes in there, accessible from the optional interior hatch. We keep all the chocks and leveling blocks in the front basket. Super convenient.
    1 point
  41. From the Lithionics Manual… Brian PS - it should be on the battery label as well.
    1 point
  42. Should be plenty of Ram trucks available, assuming this report is accurate. https://wolfstreet.com/2022/09/20/new-vehicle-inventory-still-near-record-lows-with-twist-fuel-efficient-cars-vanish-full-size-pickups-pile-up-ram-dodge-jeep-overstocked/
    1 point
  43. Wow! Thats some markup and final price of admission. Good luck.
    1 point
  44. I agree with the others, look out of state. Better deals to be had.
    1 point
  45. That’s an unfortunate add on. When I bought my Ram 2500 dealers here were taking that much, or more, off MSRP. You might want to look out of state. There are a number of dealers that specialize in long distance purchases with fair pricing. Mike
    1 point
  46. Before removing the caulking, I would suggest that you check the drain holes at the bottom of the window track to make sure they are clear and allowing the water that hits the window glass to drain out of the window track.
    1 point
  47. I used to experience similar differences, usually it was on the sunny side. I just stopped worrying about it unless it got really hot. As has been stated, I checked the free wheel spin once a year (tire rotation or grease) and no issues. Sometimes we worry about nothing. Verify then enjoy.
    1 point
  48. You might also consider securing the backof the water heater to the frame with a strap or L brackets. My water heater had an issue which included a fire, and one of the requested steps upon repair from Truma was to firmly attach the back of the water heater down to the frame it's sitting on. (The back of the Truma is sitting on a frame member for the trailer.) After about 3 months, I heard back that the water heater I had was found to have an improperly torqued internal gas connection from the Truma factory. They told Oliver Service that upon tear down they found the torque issue was linked to a manufacturing line situation where their Torque tool wasn't properly calibrated. Not sure what batch of units that impacted but they eventually fully refunded my replacement unit.
    1 point
  • Recent Achievements

    • Dutch Dawson earned a badge
      One Year In
    • TimD earned a badge
      Dedicated
    • francescaskinner earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • GreenFlash went up a rank
      Rookie
    • theOrca went up a rank
      Apprentice
    • ZLarryb earned a badge
      Reacting Well
    • HDRider went up a rank
      Rising Star
    • TimD went up a rank
      Rookie
    • ZLarryb earned a badge
      Collaborator
    • Aluecker went up a rank
      Rookie
    • LCH earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • LCH earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • LCH earned a badge
      One Year In
    • SecondTimeAround earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • SecondTimeAround earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • SecondTimeAround earned a badge
      One Year In
    • doc foster earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • doc foster earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • doc foster earned a badge
      One Year In
    • Lisa Rae earned a badge
      Week One Done
×
×
  • Create New...