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Oliver uses a DPDT switch here but only one of the poles is utilized. Therefore, use the three inline terminals on either side/pole of the switch. You could look for use-marks on the switch terminals to determine which pole the wires were on originally. Two of three wires (travelers) should be the same color. The third, different color, wire comes from the fuse. Connect the fuse wire to the middle or common terminal and the other two to either of the end terminals, doesn't matter which.

Careful examination of the blades on the switch in good light should reveal which ones have scratches on them and which ones don't. The scratches, of course, indicate that they were originally used. The three unused blades might even be a bit dusty already, which would also indicate that the other terminals were the ones that were originally connected.

In answer to your "stupid" questions LOL I checked for sufficient propane - had 2 nearly full tanks Water temp was same in bath as in kitchen. Went from normal hot to lukewarm after about 20 seconds. I did not test in Eco. I had it on Comfort the entire time I let the water run for about 30 seconds and it continued to be lukewarm. I didn't reboot using your procedure. I simply turned it off inside and out, then waited before turning back on outside before turning it back on inside. I've never put it in Clean/Decalcify mode. Is it possible it could got there on it's own?

As you are coming to my neck of the woods, I hope you can get your hot water working. It is indeed cold in Idaho this winter. So, I will ask some potentially stupid questions, in case you haven't thought of these steps already. Have you verified that your propane flow is consistent, perhaps by testing the cook top flame? Have you verified that the water temperature is the same at both the kitchen faucet and the bath? Have you tested the Truma Aquago in both Eco and Comfort mode? Have you let the hot water run for 30 seconds to a minute, to verify if the temperature remains lukewarm the entire time? Have you "rebooted" the Aquago? This is the "reboot" sequence: Power ON the Truma unit at the main power switch (which is the one on the unit, accessible only from the outside, not the wall control inside). Then, on the wall control, turn the water heater OFF Wait a few seconds, then turn the power to ON at the wall control. The AquaGo should now be ready to produce hot water). Have you verified that the Aquago is not stuck in clean mode? If not, you might try this sequence: None of these steps are directly linked to the "hot, then lukewarm" issue you describe. But, if I were heading to Sun Valley, I would work through all these steps before I resigned myself to having no hot water in January in Idaho! Good luck!

We went with Battleborn years ago. Their internal management systems make them worry free. Best investment we've ever made in our RVs! You couldn't pay me to go back to AGMs. BBs are warrantied for 8 years. Two BBs equals more power output than contained in 4 AGMs. Charlie.

Bill, it's quite impressive that you are still running on the T105s! We replaced our 2018s in the spring after many electrical issues. I waited for the Battleborns to go on sale and yes, big invesment up front, and yes, the peace of mind about no more need for constant battery monitoring is worth every dime to me. Now I monitor our batteries more out of curiosity about our actual AH usage than a need to make sure we're staying above the AGM threshold.

And it’s a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch, so it doesn’t matter which set of 3 inline terminals you use. Either set of 3 will work. The other unused set of 3 inline terminals will just serve no function since the switch is only switching one load (the pump).

This pic may help to add to what bhncb posted. Black wire to the middle terminal of one set of terminals. And the gray to the outer end terminals. Both of my gray wires have a red stripe. The spiral wrap is something I added to clean up the wiring a bit.

I completed the installation of my new VMAX AGM batteries. There are 4 - 6V 237Ah batteries. Due to the very slightly dimension difference I eliminated the straps that clipped on the battery tray and use two heavy Nite EZ cargo straps that each hold down 2 batteries. After testing I feel confident we are back to normal when we don’t have shore power overnight during the heating season. I drew the batteries down almost 70Ah and still had a 93 SOC.

If it was stuck in Clean/De-Calcify mode that would be indicated on the control panel inside the trailer with the LED blinking slowly, even if you turned the knob back to the normal mode, and you’d have to do the procedure that Rivernerd mentioned. If the LED on the interior control panel is illuminated solid when in the Normal or ECO mode and not blinking any error code pattern that means the Truma controller thinks everything is ok so the problem may be elsewhere. Double check all your water valves under the bed to make sure they are all in the correct normal position. Does the lack of hot water issue happen both when hooked to city water and when using the fresh tank & pump? You mentioned that you are winterizing also. Did you bypass the Truma as required when you winterized? This is very important! And since you have an older Ollie it may be overdue for a decalcification.

Yes. The wall control can get accidentally bumped into clean mode. Once that happens, the Aquago will stay in clean mode until the sequence detailed in my earlier post is followed. The question asked by bhncb above is also relevant. In your shoes, unless you have recently done so, I would get some Truma decalcification tablets, run the clean cycle and see if that solves the problem.

How long has it been since your Aquago was decalcified?

You might have a bad Black flush backflow valve. I did. I replaced it and now the flush into the black tank works fine. If you hook a hose to your black tank flush does it fill your black tank? This is from under the dinette seat near the bath. The flush line is on the left, the black tank and backflow valves on the right. This is the assembly detached from the black tank with the new valve I got from Amazon. There are two backflow valves on my trailer (2016). The white part on the right is in the tank. The gray part is the valve that failed. Replaced it with the Thetford above. The bad valve is the gray thing. The black piece under it on the left is the new valve.

David & Paula - Thanks for posting your on-going story. And, certainly glad to hear that you are back up and running. Hope that this takes care of all your issues. With my 2016 that has its original T-105's I know that I'm living on borrowed time. Please keep us advised of how these batteries perform for you since I'm afraid that I'll be in the market soon and these look like they are worth considering. Bill

Thank you! So, that, plus the thickness of the support (guessing 1/4") plus 3/4ish" for the HyperVent plus 10-1/2" for the mattress equals a seating height of 26-1/2". About the same height as our bed here at home. Thanks for measuring that for me!

15” from the floor to the bottom of the mattress support.

Very good points and I am familiar with the Ocean Air shades having just sold our Airstream. Maybe the combination of the Ocean Air shade and the tinted window would provide the 99% solution. It’s great to have this dialog and have some options to consider. Thank you all! Brian

I always enjoy studying JD's craftsmanship and beautifully executed designs. Sadly I don't have the shop, tools, skills or time to reproduce many of his works of art. I also am a Ollie Mod Minimalist (OMM). So your approach to the battery box (BB) heat/cool is very eloquent in my eyes. Well done. It solves both heating and cooling of the battery box. For those owners that are OMM's and are only interested in BB cooling, I have hijacked elements of both your and John D's designs. Then applied my OMM approach to keep it effective, but simple to execute at at a greatly reduced cost. To be clear, the purpose of this approach is only for BB cooling in extreme heat. Here is a GJ OMM concept: Install bathroom 4" air return portal as described in other posts. This and other leakage points will allow cabin "free air" to easily enter forward street side basement. Leave OTT BB exterior vents as is. But, add reflex insulation around them to reduce solar heating yet allow the vents to function as designed. Add a single air penetration into the battery box. Recommend this be as close to the cabin side low in the box as possible. Penetration size varies depending on your 12V Box Fan dimensions. Mount inexpensive single speed uber quiet 4" box fan (See JD's suggested fan in post above, or borrow one from an old computer.) Consider using a rubber gasket for sealing and vibration absorption. Install Thermal switch (See below) mounted high in the BB. Install On/Off Auto switch and of course a fuse where it is convenient, but not obtrusive. Cost: Peanuts. Operation: Switch "ON" or "AUTO". When thermal switch exceeds 104 degrees F (40 degrees C), the fan comes on and cooler cabin air from the forward street-side basement will be pushed into the BB and out it's existing vents. Added advantage is it will also help cool the bathroom and basement. Recommend executing the above first. See how it works for your system. However some will want to depart from the OMM approach to get even more BB cooling, you could always consider adding the following elements: If your street side foreword basement is rather hot, you may want to add duct from the cabin to fan as NCeagle used. Maybe add deflection louvers on the fan discharge (in the battery box) to better distribute the air into the BB . Maybe add a baffle on the battery box door from the top vents up to the top of the hatch to better pull hot air out from closer to the top of the BB. Add a removeable shade awning for the BB exterior area. But for this OMM, I would just go the simple, inexpensive and less visible approach. GJ

I had forgotten about seeing that one. Certainly it presents another choice (and that is a good thing) but it will not block as much light as the sliding blind number. Bill

There is another option from Zarcor that works from the inside without opening the door. See @Andrew K post & pics of Ocean Air roller shade at this link. This is the upgrade my wife prefers, it’s on my task list. Ocean Air Roller Shade

B and B - The only problem that I think there is with the Lippert shade is that it can not be opened and closed with the screen door in place. That means that you will need to open the door, unlatch the screen door from the main door, adjust the blind and then close both doors. This, obviously, prohibits being able to see who might be at the door without opening the door first - assuming that the blind is closed. With the Zarcor, you can adjust the blind from the inside without having to open the door. As far as I know, this is the only "shade system" that has this most important feature. Bill

I agree GJ, good ideas, I think we are on the same page. I’m also concerned about fan noise, which is why I suggested one or two fans mounted internally. These could be connected to ducting like you mentioned. Ideally, this system would also vent the battery box, keeping it warmer in extreme cold and extreme heat, to avoid BMS cutoff and optimum lithium battery performance. In this link, @NCEagle describes dual systems, both a battery compartment fan and a basement fan. Lithium Powered Vent System @NCEagle’s battery compartment mod uses a 120V duct fan with ducting. I can’t find a post with his basement fan mod, but my guess is that it’s similar and is designed to heat those critical plumbing areas. I’ve been unable to find a 12V duct fan, other than marine bilge blowers, which I worry are too noisy. @Overland proposed a nice battery compartment fan mod (same link) with a quiet fan and plastic ductwork that mounts directly to the fan, with a thermostat. Keep the ideas coming. I’m still looking for the ideal system before I cut any holes!

Correct, here’s a YouTube video where Jason actually mentions not to leave the outside shower open or it would cause the inside water to be cold….at about 16:25 time in the video

Glad is back on for now but wish I knew the reason it went down. Is there such a thing as “thankfully irritated?”

Yes, safe travels Mike and Carol! David and Kathy

Wow! What a difference 18 hours make. Stay safe! Mossey

I. think this is a bit of a leap. Truma is likely looking out for their OEM customers, not wishing to bite the hand that feeds them. Also, if anyone took advantage of the "free install" coupon for the Aventa, I'm sure Truma will honor this coupon and the installation until 3/31/2023 as stipulated. Regarding Varioheat retros, since these furnaces require specific ducting, replacing original factory installed ducts for an Atwood/Dometic or Suburban would be quite labor intensive. I can understand why Truma would only want to make these furnaces available to OEMs for original installations. Besides, there is yet to be any conclusive performance evaluation of the Varioheat in an LEii . I'm anxiously waiting to hear how they perform in sub-freezing temperatures for extended periods. The specs tell me they're undersized.

This might help… did a quick sketch last year to order a mattress.

Put some paper or cardboard under your mattress, trace the curve and call it a day.

These heat system problems and winter worthiness of the Olivers is frustrating on a number of levels. First and foremost, OTT should certainly not allow for multiple folks with similar heat system problems on trailers still under warrantee, fight it out with manufacturers and service centers, especially with the upcoming winter. I feel it's their lot in life to cover the cost of repair themselves and fight it out with Dometic. On another level, I have found through both first hand experience and related stories here on multiple forum entries, that Olivers are lacking in capacity to handle even modest winter temps that stay below low 20s for multiple days. I obviously can't speak for everyone's experience but have found myself and yet to hear of someone who 1) had their water system on, 2) was camping for multiple days where temps did not get above low 20s and 3) did not skirt the bottom of their trailer, who did not find temperatures in the most exposed water lines to be perilously close or below freezing-primarily the exterior shower, under forward dinette and rear most part of garage. Please share any positive experience in similar conditions. In communicating directly with Oliver, the response was that there is no problem. They suggested problems could be attributed to running propane tanks too low, running "summer mix" fuel, operating in high altitude and wind conditions. All are valid potential sources of issues but I've camped in ideal conditions free of any and still had freezing in those vulnerable spots. My thought is that even if out of warrantee, those of us that have had these problems should open a ticket and share with OTT. They are a great company that I would bet would respond in a way that, at least benefits future owners. In a perfect world, they would also offer us current owners to make air flow (= cutting vents) improvements free of charge at the factory. It's important to remember that, being in the south, they are in a part of the world that has a warmish winter. That said, I'll give a big thumbs up to earlier post that suggested it is past-time for OTT to have a HVAC specialist come in and go through the system. I won't pretend to be an expert but with my mad scientist experiments, seems that most if not all Oliver cold weather issues can be fixed with better vent placement and some tactical insulation improvements which would make for a cheap and seemingly easy process.

I know you followed protocol. And, stayed a good long time. If the gas leak was strong, it would have set off the propane alarm. Some things show up later, after trailering for awhile . Unfortunately, that's you. Oliver will take care of you. I know that to be true

I'll bet this has been stated thousands of times through the years. Yet still, there are folks that pick up and leave the same day. When they have a problem down the road a bit they want to get on here and complain. This is GREAT advice and and should be heeded by all. There's really no good excuse not to stick around a few days and check everything out, just build the extra time into your pickup experience. I promise you won't regret it. John, it's really good to hear you've been taken care of by Oliver and I believe you will never be disappointed "...that I chose Oliver over some other brand."