Leaderboard

Are you using a neutral ground plug? Do you actually have 110 anywhere in the trailer, running the generator with the inverter turned off? (Lights, fans, furnace, fridge, etc. will run off 12v, if you don't have 110, and you won't notice the difference til your battery is too low.)

I agree with the comments posted by Steph and Dud B above. The new Indemnification paragraph is an improvement, but not enough to persuade me to join the program. "[V]iolation of any law, rule or regulation" can be intentional or negligent. Since that language is not limited to intentional acts by the Participant (you), it could be construed to require you to "defend, indemnify and hold harmless" Oliver if you are found to have been negligent, even if you didn't intentionally violate any "law, rule or regulation." This means that if, for example, you show your Oliver trailer to someone in the winter, and they slip on snow or ice outside the trailer that you are found to have negligently failed to remove and suffer significant injuries, you get to "defend, indemnify and hold harmless" Oliver for all of its defense costs, "including reasonable attorneys' fees." The end result could still be financial ruin, unless you have an umbrella insurance policy with high limits in place, covering you for negligence claims. With this new Indemnification language, Oliver is still foisting nearly all of the financial exposure off on to the Participant. It is not "We've got your back" language that would result in Oliver defending, indemnifying and holding the Participant harmless in the unlikely event that a personal injury claim arises from showing an Oliver trailer. In my view, since Oliver owners who enroll in the Rewards Program are acting as a nationwide sales force for Oliver, and being compensated for their sales efforts with the offered Rewards, Oliver should accept full legal responsibility for any litigation arising from a trailer showing. Oliver could simply buy insurance to cover this additional exposure, like RV dealers buy insurance to cover such claims arising out of RV showings on their lots. Instead, Oliver expects the participants to buy the insurance, or take the risk, in exchange for the rewards. In short, Oliver has not yet "done the right thing" (in my view) by agreeing to defend, indemnify and hold harmless the Participants in the Rewards Program for claims arising out of trailer showings. So, if you choose to enroll in the Oliver Rewards program, I recommend you have a broadly-worded umbrella insurance policy in place covering you for negligence claims AND which does not exclude claims when you are engaged in compensated commercial activity, with limits of several million dollars. Then, if you are the unlucky owner who gets sued, you are protected. If the potential rewards are sufficient to cover the cost of the umbrella insurance policy, then enrolling is a sensible business decision for you. For me, the offered rewards are not even close to sufficient to persuade me to get my umbrella policy amended, if necessary, to be sure it covers me for negligence if I engage in commercially compensated activity. I still will not be signing up. And, my opinion of Oliver Travel Trailers as a "customer friendly" business is still lower than when we left Hohenwald last November.

It’s not as easy as it used to be, but I can still do it!

Last two days of the Tampa rv supershow. Unfortunately, we'll miss it this year, as my husband hasn't been feeling good this week, and we won't go spread the germs around. Oliver will still be showing their trailer(s) in nearby Brandon. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/tampa-florida-rv-show/ When we first started looking for our retirement rv, we spent two days at the RV show, and crawled around and under anything of interest. Gave us a great basis for appreciating the Oliver difference. https://www.frvta.org/show/florida-rv-supershow/

Vic, I have a different inverter so I don’t have any input on that. Do you have a 3 way fridge that can run on propane?

Most of the fiberglass rv /factory direct sales companies sponsor some kind of spiff/ambassador/reward program, and have for a very long time. We don't show ours anymore, except casual showings at gas stations, shopping malls, campgrounds, and repair facilities, as most people want to see the latest model, not a 2008. (Though lots of people who step or peek inside are utterly astounded at how great a 2008 looks. A few have even accused me of exaggeration, til I show them the paperwork.) Back in the day, I was always excited to show our trailer, but Oliver gave me data on those who requested a look-see. I looked everyone up online, as our trailer has always had an off season spot at our home. I interviewed them by phone, before providing my home address. I don't remember ever collecting a spiff. We enjoyed showing off our cool little trailer. We had a lot of fun with it, for a few years. We even let Technomadia test-tow our trailer with their jeep, with my husband along. Met some fun people along the way. Still friends with some of them, who ultimately decided on another brand. Times change, people change, and everyone should simply follow their guts. No obligation. No harm/no foul if you decide to not opt-in.

Vic and Wanda: Please also update your signature line with your trailer and tow vehicle info. This makes it less time consuming in answering questions. See mine below, or Mike and Carrol's: Thank you and great to have you on board! GJ

It's tough getting older. My replacement knees and thinner butt makes suspension maintenance a lot less fun than it used to be. But having a nice bucket and one of these really helps it to be a lot less of a PITA! Seriously. 🙂 I store my boat throw cushion as a pad to my Honda EU2200. The generator is lashed down in the curbside rear corner of the truck bed. The cushion sets vertically between the side of the generator and the side of the truck bed. Best part is I can remember where I put it! GJ

This is the one thing that I found was in a very inconvenient place, the fresh water drain valve (Elite II). I think this electric valve install should be stand on the Oliver trailers, just a pain the "a" to get to, lifting the bed and all the covers just to operate the value. trainman

I put mine on almost seven years ago. I really didn't think that given the "cheapness" of the plastic they would last very long - so - I bought a full set of extras. Fortunately, I've not had to use a single one of those extras - yet. Bill

I’ve been using Zerk caps for quite some time. Cheap and effective. I didn’t have to remove wheels to put them on or to lube. Mike

The "Code C" on the fridge suggests you are running it on DC power. The first thing to do when boondocking is to switch the fridge to propane to reduce your power demand. It will be helpful to know what battery package you have (wet cell, AGM or LiFePO4) and how many amp hours of capacity. It will also be helpful to know if you are running your Champion 3500W Dual Fuel generator on gas or propane. This because it generates only 2880 continuous running watts on propane, which at 120V is 24A. 24A should still be enough power to run your trailer without changing the Xantrex settings, so I am at a loss to understand why you are not getting battery charge when running the generator. Are you trying to run other appliances, such as the AC? With 24A, you should not need to change inverter settings. But, if you still want to try changing the settings, you must have the Xantrex "FXC Control" app to do so. Once the app recognizes your Xantrex inverter, go to the "Settings" page (by tapping on the gear icon). On that page, scroll down to the "Breaker" setting. It should be set at the factory default, with is 25A. One thing to try is to scroll down to "15A," and tap "Apply". This tells your inverter that it only has 15A of incoming power to work with (even though you should have 24A, even if running on propane). To verify if you are getting solar battery charging, check the Zamp solar charge panel mounted just aft of the pantry. What voltage does it read during daylight hours? Good luck! And, please report how you solved your issues, so readers can learn what worked.

@topgun2, Back in the day when our sailboat "playlist" was a collection of songs recorded from our lp's to a cassette tape, Southern Cross was one we played every trip.... And then, there's this great song by Pete Seeger back in the Byrds days. Seems appropriate today. It is, a time to mourn. Rip. David, and Pete.

Those who do their own maintenance may wish to simplify periodic greasing of the suspension by installing zerk caps. The caps keep road grime from coating the grease zerks, so you don't have to wipe them off each time you grease them. The zerk caps on my tractor have saved a bunch of time, so I installed them on my Elite II suspension as well. You must remove the wheels to install the caps, so they are most easily installed when already doing regular maintenance. Zerk caps are available for $11 from Amazon, or from the manufacturer, LockN Lube. Amazon link below: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779K66DW/ref=dp_iou_view_item?ie=UTF8&th=1

We are frequent winter camper taking my Oliver E2 to ski resorts in Northern New England. We have a composting toilet and, to date, have run dry, without de-winterizing the water system, for all these trips to allow us to quantify the issues the trailer has in sub freezing conditions and making adjustments to rectify. A summary of our experience with great input from others was outlined in this forum chain 3.75 Season Trailer?. On a trip last week, we used multiple digital bluetooth thermometers, adjusted to read temps consistent to each other, to different parts of the belly of the trailer. As compared to cold trips before our system tweaks to date, all previously problematic areas (= drop below freezing in areas w/water lines) worked fine when ambient dropped down to -5f. Amazing. The outlier was, you guessed it, the rearmost area of the garage behind the flimsy wall. In spite of venting into and out of that area and opening the bottom door in the cabinet between the beds, the temp at those water lines dropped below freezing when the ambient temps was in the low teens. Crazy making, especially as there is no reason for those lines to have been run through such an exposed area. My thoughts concerning next steps is to add cut off valves to those lines just behind where they feed past the furnace. The following image is towards the rear. Bottom of photo is just past the furnace. After the elbow, the lines feed into the garage. My questions to you knowledgable folks are 1) There are three lines, two of which are for the exterior shower. Which two? and 2) What is the third line? Is it the City Water feed? and 3) Considering that we will always start the season winterized, do you think it is necessary to add a cut off to all three lines if we dont use the City Water line? Once we address this issue and successfully complete a mid winter trip with the water activated, I'll share a post on the 3.75 Season chain to share update and gory details. I am also curious to hear if those with 2023 trailers, with the improved heating system, have run their water in temps below 10 degrees. Exotic as those conditions may seem to some, in many parts of the country, any mid winter night could be considerably colder.

Share and Enjoy !Shares Traveling in an RV can be a great way to see new places and explore the outdoors. However, road trips can get long, boring, and even dangerous in some situations if you're not careful. Whether you are planning a cross-country journey or just a weekend getaway, there are certain tips that will make your RV road trip even more enjoyable and safe. From planning ahead to pack essentials to knowing where to fill up on fuel and supplies, these tips will help you make the most of your RV adventure. So whether you’re a seasoned road-tripper or a first-timer, read on to find out how to get the best out of your next RV trip. 1. Planning Ahead: How to Prepare for Your RV Road Trip Before you embark on your RV adventure, it’s important to plan ahead to make the most of your trip. There are a few key steps to take before heading out on the open road: • Research & Book Accommodations: Depending on where you’re planning to travel, book your accommodations in advance. Research campgrounds and RV parks to determine the best option for your needs. • Stock Up On Supplies: Make sure you have plenty of food and any other items that you may need along the way. Pack non-perishable snacks, meals, and other essentials such as first-aid supplies and extra clothing. • Check Your Vehicle: Make sure your RV is in good working order prior to departing. This includes a full inspection of all systems, checking the tire pressure and oil levels, and filling up with fuel. • Plot Your Route: Map out the route you plan to take ahead of time. This will help ensure that you’re aware of potential obstacles or detours along the way and any attractions or destinations you may want to visit. 2. On the Road: Tips for Staying Comfortable & Safe Once you’re on the road, there are certain tips to keep in mind to ensure a comfortable and safe journey. Here are some key tips to remember while driving your RV: • Monitor Your Speed: Make sure to maintain a safe speed while driving. This is especially important when navigating curves or hills, as an RV can easily become unstable if you’re going too fast. • Check Your Mirrors: Monitor your mirrors regularly to ensure that everything in your blind spot is visible and accounted for. This will help you avoid any potential collisions or dangerous situations. • Utilize Rest Stops: It’s important to take breaks while driving. Schedule rest stops during your trip to give yourself and any passengers a chance to stretch, use the restroom, and grab a snack or meal. • Be Mindful of Weather Conditions: Pay attention to weather forecasts when traveling in an RV. Rain, snow, and strong winds can all make an RV trip more difficult and dangerous. • Keep a Checklist: It’s also wise to make a checklist of items to check before you depart each day. This may include checking the tire pressure, making sure the oil levels are full, ensuring that the lights are functioning properly, and more. 3. Keeping Fueled Up: Where to Fill up and Supplies You’ll Need When it comes to fueling up your RV, there are certain things you need to keep in mind. Here are the basics of how to fill up your RV and what supplies you’ll need: • Fueling Up: If your RV runs on propane, make sure it is full before departing. For additional tips about filling up the tank, check the owner's manual for more information. • Refilling Supplies: You’ll also need to keep your RV stocked up with other supplies such as water, propane, and fuel. Make sure to check the levels of these items before you depart and keep an eye on them while you’re traveling. • Finding Fuel Stations: Some fuel stations may not offer diesel or propane, so it’s important to research where to find the necessary supplies before you depart. 4. Enjoy the Journey: Tips for Making the Most of Your Trip Don’t forget to enjoy your journey! Here are some tips to help you make the most of your RV road trip: • Take Time to Explore: How you travel is just as important as where you travel. Make sure to take time to explore and discover the sights, sounds, and culture of the places you visit. • Take It Slow: Don’t rush through your trip. Instead, plan to spend a few days at each destination so you can get to know it better. • Bring Along Entertainment: Pack entertainment such as books, movies, and music to keep you entertained during those long stretches on the road. • Make New Friends: Camping sites and RV parks are great places to meet fellow travelers. Strike up conversations and share stories about your travels with others. • Try Something New: Road trips are a great opportunity to try something new, such as hiking, fishing, or camping. Take advantage of the chance to broaden your horizons and have some fun! RV road trips are a great way to explore and discover new places. With the right preparation and knowledge, you can make your trip more enjoyable and safe. Be sure to plan ahead by monitoring your speed, checking your mirrors, utilizing rest stops, being mindful of weather conditions, and keeping a checklist. Make sure to fill up with the right fuel and bring all necessary supplies. Finally, don’t forget to take time to enjoy your journey! With these tips in mind, you can make the most of your RV road trip. If you are looking for a travel trailer to accompany you on your road trip, contact Oliver Travel Trailers today. We specialize in helping you find the perfect trailer to fit your needs, lifestyle, budget, and family. Oliver Travel Trailers make for fun, safe, enjoyable road trips for everyone involved! Share and Enjoy !Shares The post Tips for Enjoying Your RV Road Trip Next Summer appeared first on Oliver Travel Trailers. Read the Full Article

Great use for an old boat cushion. It doesn't have to float on pavement,or atop a bucket, just give our old bones a bit of cushion. We also have knee pads, and some old carpet scraps, for work at home. Everything helps!

As some of you may already know CGI Detailing will be in Florida again come late January. We will be attending the 2023 RV SuperShow along side Glidecoat (Our Ceramic Coating Company) We will be at Glidecoat's booth on the 20th and 21st hopefully talking to some of you guys but none the less meeting some amazing people in the RV community. With that being said, we will also be planning to apply some ceramic coatings as well. If anyone is interested in getting their Oliver Ceramic Coated in Florida please visit our website and submit a quote request so we can contact you https://www.cgidetailing.com/ As for pricing, we start at $2,800 for the LE2 and $2,000 for the LE1. There will be a travel fee added to the price as well which will be divided evenly between each person, the more we have the cheaper the travel fee will be. We appreciate everyones ongoing support over the past year and are truly blessed to be where we are at today. Thank You!

You must have much better manual dexterity and body flexibility than I do! I can't get a grease gun, even with a Lock N Lube fitting on the end of a flexible hose, on to the two zerks inside the central bracket that holds the EZ flex assembly, without removing my wheels.

Like @Frank C we also changed our zerk fittings. Adding the zerk caps seems to make greasing a much easier task to ✅. Thanks @topgun2 for the suggestion at the time on the caps. -Patriot 🇺🇸

"A Participant’s indemnification obligations hereunder arise in the event that a Participant acts in violation of any law, rule, or regulation or contrary to these Terms, and in such event, you agree to defend, indemnify and hold harmless Oliver for any loss, damages or costs (including reasonable attorneys' fees), resulting from any third-party claims, actions, or demands arising in such limited circumstances." I read this as saying we'd be on the hook for everything, including OTT's costs, only if someone sued based on an event where we did something illegal or against Oliver's rules. I think that's better than the previous terms(?). However, they won't extend any protection to us, either: "The Released Parties will have no liability for any losses, damages, or harm (whether bodily injury, death, and/or property damage) that the Participant may incur by performing the Activity." The absolute limit of any compensation for loss from OTT would be $500: "NOTWITHSTANDING ANYTHING TO THE CONTRARY CONTAINED HEREIN, ANY AND ALL RELEASED PARTIES’ CUMULATIVE LIABILITY TO PARTICIPANT ARISING FROM ANY CAUSE OF ACTION WILL AT ALL TIMES BE LIMITED TO THE LESSER OF (A) YOUR ACTUAL LOSS AS PROVEN; OR (B) $500." To me, not bad, not great. Seems like I'd have to screw up to be on the hook for any of OTT's costs, which seems fair. However, if something goes wrong, I'd still have to pay for my own defense and damages, unless OTT decided to give me $500. Very much interested in what someone with actual legal training/experience like @Rivernerd thinks of the revised terms.

Rivernerd: Thanks for all you comments about your concern about the Terms and Conditions. Glad we got a lawyer on board. Yesterday, Oliver TT revised their Terms and Conditions. I received a email with a link to those T&C. Have you had a chance to review the new language and what do you think of it now? Thanks dewdev

Definitely a simple worthwhile addition to keep the fittings clean to prevent dirt contamination. I added the caps shortly after our Ollie purchase, and I also changed to angled Zerk fittings to make re-greasing easier.

I think error C will come up in any mode if the batteries drop low enough. Also, with a 3500 watt generator it shouldn’t be necessary to change the inverter setting. Something else is going on.

Hi Vic and Wanda!! I hope you're playing and singing at the festival....believe it or not we are at the mother ship having our a/c retrofitted with a Truma and leaving tomorrow for Mississippi. Seems like yesterday we were pickin and grinnin in Oliver's parking lot. Anyway, sorry to hear your problems. Here is a link for the error codes for your Norcold. Looks like the "C" indicates low dc voltage to the fridges control panel. https://100refrigerator.com/norcold-refrigerator-error-codes/ Did you get the lithium or agm batteries? Here is a link to some info from Jason E. at Oliver. Hope this helps :) Hi to Wanda, John and Wendy #28 - AC Input Breaker: This setting is set to 25 at the factory because the breaker size for the inverter is 25a and the main power supply is 30a which is greater than the breaker size. There may be times when you choose to connect to a generator that supplies a lower amount of power and/or a standard house receptacle by using an adapter. If you choose to connect to a power source other than the 30a shore connection then you may need to adjust this setting down to match the current incoming power supply. Example: A 2200w Generator will need to have the breaker input size changed to 15a for it to properly operate the camper.

For our bathroom window I put up a couple of small, clear on command clips. The microfiber towel we use to wipe things down after a shower gets hung there to dry, also serving as a curtain. Mike

Not always my favorite but I'm going to miss him.

Our original thought for the vent, was the bathroom exhaust fan. If you go into the bathroom, turn on the exhaust, and then close the door you can hear the fan struggle hard to work. Open the door and you can literally hear the fan relax. If this is the case there must be a negative pressure (vacuum) situation going on. So, thinking the inverse might also be true, came the idea for the vent. Thinking that with the door closed, like when using the bathroom, there would be a positive pressure when the heater fan was blowing. So the vent would allow the heat duct to "relax" and allow the air to get out and to the return air vent, hence increasing the heat flow to the bathroom. As you can see by the candle flame movement there certainly is air flow. We did restrict the air flow to the duct opening under the bed so that that air did not go out and immediately go into the return. We think the bathroom is a lot warmer in cool weather. We could have done the same thing by leaving the bathroom door open, as some do, but find that inconvenient while using the dinette.

Thanks. We put it up high so that any chance of stray water wouldn't get into it. In our year the wall is wood core. We did seal the core before screwing them together...

I do not use a buffer, nor do I recommend it (in my opinion). I do not want to wear down the thickness of my gel coat. I think that professional detailers are more experienced in the safe use of a buffer. I have owned 4 older fiberglass boats in the past and never used a buffer. (There have been other forum posts about the use of buffers and I think that a majority of the comments were from people that do not use a buffer.) On my past older boats, which had oxidation, I would use a fiberglass paste rubbing compound applied by hand with a lot of elbow grease and remove the compound by hand with a clean cloth. After removing the compound and clean the fiberglass, I would hand apply two coats of liquid wax, hand applied and hand removed. That process worked well. On my 2018 Ollie (which is left outside 24-7-365), I have never seen any fiberglass oxidation. I keep the Ollie outside during the winter. In the spring I wash the Ollie very well (sometime twice) and remove any remaining black water stains with the Meguiars 67 One step (liquid) compound applying it by hand and let it film over and then wipe it off with a clean micro-cloth. [The liquid compound is a lot less aggressive on the fiberglass that paste compound.] I then apply the Meguiars Professional Marine Wax by hand, let it dry, remove it using a micro-cloth and then apply a second coat of wax. During the summer I wash the Ollie as needed and if not shinny (but it usually is), I will apply one coat of wax. When putting the Ollie away for winter, I use my spring procedure. Over the years owning boats, I have used a number of different brands of compounds and waxes. Myself, I find that the Meguiars products are easy to install, easy to wipe off and holds up very well. Everyone will have their favorite products but after over 30 years of fiberglass maintenance, I like Meguiars the best (so far).

Do we really need another fool’s errand to go along with adapting those Dometic drip pans? Ouch! Watch for it.

Likely for sure. But I best not start "Another" project. Besides I think you were the BEST and most knowledgeable person to post on this thread! Just look at those pictures of your second spare unit! 🙂 Gotcha! GJ

It's not a credit card. It is a re-loadable debit card. There is not a credit check or anything required to get the card other than just completing an activity. When you get the card and activate it, you can setup a PIN to get cash out of ATMs also.

Here are some bullet points about the new Oliver Rewards Program. Hopefully it will help explain some of the questions. The new Rewards Program replaces the old Field Visit Program. Instead of getting a check mailed to you if a prospect purchases after completing a field visit, you get paid on an Oliver Rewards Mastercard Debit Card. This is not a credit card. There is no line of credit like a credit card has. There isn't a credit pull or anything. It is just a branded re-loadable gift card that we load money onto when you complete activities. You can setup a PIN to get cash out of a ATM as well. You also will get paid for just showing your travel trailer, regardless if the prospect purchases or not. We know the hours it takes to clean your trailer, to spend time with the prospects, and Oliver wants to reward you for that, which we didn't previously do. If the prospect does purchase a new Oliver, you get even more Reward Dollars after the sale is finalized - the amount depends on your tier. In this new program, you will get this reward when their order is finalized rather than waiting for checks to be mailed after delivery. As of right now, we consider the order as finalized 90 days before the production start date. So you will get this a little quicker than before. And those that want to be ambitious to get to higher tiers, they can make more Reward Dollars for the individual activities that are completed. Also, look at the Tier Perks. Those are gifts (non-taxable) you get for being a member of each tier. These are just a way of us saying thanks for you taking part in the program. The $20 service fee is new to this program. It is really a deduction of the first Reward for the year. If you don’t complete any activities for the year, you will not have to pay this fee. It is called a Service Fee but it is not an out-of-pocket expense. We will be adding more activities that people can do in the future. You will be required to submit details of completed activities on the Oliver website. This helps us make sure we are rewarding everyone properly. Now that we have over 1300 Oliver owners, we need our checks and balances to reward everyone that deserves to get them. It is a lot to keep up with and a lot more work on our part. As far as the 1099 goes, we are required by the IRS to 1099 anyone that earns $600 or more. This is not new. We had to 1099 owners in our previous Field Visit Program when individuals made $600 or more in a year. If you don't want to be 1099'd, you can still complete activities and earn less than $600 and stop doing activities once you reach the threshold. We apologize that the Terms & Condition are so much, but as a company we had to do our due diligence to protect all parties involved. With this, we have made changes how we setup field visits. For all prospects that contact us to see an owner's trailer, we now require the prospect to sign a Hold Harmless agreement that protects the owner when conducting a field visit. We have this signed by the prospect before setting up the field visit. This did not exist under the old program. We know many of you have helped us by showing your trailer in the past and didn't do it for the money, but we wanted to build a great program to reward everyone for their time and efforts to grow our brand. We are very thankful for everyone that has helped us over the years! Obviously the launch of this program is new. We will monitor and revise it as we gather feedback and where opportunities exist to make it better. If anyone has questions, please don't hesitate to message me.

If you show your unit, and no sale, you still get a reward. Harvest Hosts and a piece of clothing at different levels seems ok, not sure of any downside there. Copper bronze and up...who cares? Want me to brag up my camper to somebody, be happy too. Want to give me a tee shirt for doing so? Thank you. Got rewards I think you call them and they sent you a check in 30 days if you want it. Just more passwords to remember? My guess this is an attempt to have a computer program administer the program, minimize staff time involvement, and generate customer involvement? I would guess is your unit might be picked on how it is equipped. Maybe by who got the referal at the sales office? I was told by someone at the sales office once some times that is how it it happens.."it's cyclical".

Based on what my neighbor paid to have his boat ceramic coated, I'd say your prices are very fair. Starting at is reasonable. It's a ton more work to bring back a base to an older trailer. Best of luck to you, and happy new year. We'll look for you at the rv Supershow in Tampa.

OK you wore me down. Sent Houghton an email asking about the evap fan control and option for internal condensation. We'll see how responsive their are.

You're closest. 😀