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  1. Requested pictures with gear. I may take John's idea about a cargo net for travel day.
    10 points
  2. w00t! Tomorrow morning, @DebMand I leave on a leisurely two-day drive to Hohenwald, Tennessee. Wednesday morning, we will take delivery of #1360, and stay two nights at Camp Oliver. Then two more nights just down the road at David Crockett State Park. We are beyond thrilled that this day is soon upon us, and thank all of you here for your encouragement, suggestions, and answers to endless questions!! After DCSP, we head to Pine Mountain, Georgia, where we will spend three nights at the Callaway Gardens lodge with [name redacted] in the parking lot. As mentioned before, Deb is an avid vegetable and flower gardener, and decades long member of our local garden club. We visited Callaway Gardens 25 years ago, but missed the rhododendron and azalea blooming. Hopefully, we will be at peak bloom next week. Then we will head home {unless a stop is needed at Oliver for any fixes) where we have several accessories to install before our spring/summer camping begins. If anyone will be at Oliver Wednesday through Friday, stop and say "Hi!" We'll be in the white trailer. šŸ˜‰ A new thread with delivery photos, our travels, and modifications will start soon!
    7 points
  3. My 2 cents. I think Oliver chose to install the rear lines against the back wall for convenience during construction. It does allow removal of the fresh tank without disturbing them because they cross higher than the tank. ā€œOverlandā€ modded his lines by running them across directly behind the fresh tank, eliminating or bypassing the rear pipes entirely. I donā€™t recall if he directed hot air there too, but I would add a 2ā€ heat duct off the main furnace plenum and run it along those lines so warm air dumps out into the cargo area through a BIG expanded aluminum grate... I think having the four fill ports sticking out out into the air is very silly, they need to be recessed with tight fitting doors. The double hull design is way cool, I like it a lot, but it is deceptive to advertise how well they insulate. The air gap is what provides the R value. There is a wonderful air gap between the cabin interior and the outside world, but all the appliances, plumbing, cargo, food and your clothes are PART of that gap. So they get ^%#*+ cold or blistering hot. Unless you open up all the hatches and doors. This is silly too IMHO. This is moot for me since I donā€™t winter camp, but I personally think that locating the lines along the back wall is beyond stupid. These trailers are full of compromises - design and quality vs cost and ease of manufacture - go look at a $300,000+ Earth Cruiser if you want to camp in arctic conditions without freezing worries. Those expedition rigs, and Nimbl (ex XP Camper) are each designed by a single individual who pretty much imply ā€œThis is what works anywhere in the world, we have tested it there ourselves, this is how it will be built, if you donā€™t like it, go away.ā€ John Davies Spokane WA
    6 points
  4. Most importantly..... the good attitude will always carry a bad day with smiles. GJ
    5 points
  5. I have stayed out of this conversation because I really don't have any cold weather camping experience below 20Ā°. I started reviewing this post in the last week and your statement I quoted above caused me to think about a possible solution to the basement/garage plumbing issue. A while back, Minnesota Oli posted about a bathroom mod he completed that facilitated saving the resident cold water that resides in the hot water line between the water heater and the bath shower head. This mod accomplished 2 solutions. The first being that the fresh water that was previously going down the bath drain, thus taking capacity away from grey water tank and the second was the fresh water savings by returning the cold water back to the fresh water tank. Now to the part of his mod that might help the cold weather basement/garage plumbing issue. His return line runs down the street side and crosses back to the curb side and tee's into the fresh water tank fill line. The crossing point is just aft of the fresh water tank. Now the thought I have is to move the City, Fresh and Hot water lines that run back and forth through the basement back to the mid cabin area below the beds and eliminate the lines running through the basement which you have pinpointed as the problem area. I also think foam pipe insulation or pool noodles would also provide a measure of warmth to the water lines no matter where they are located. Mossey
    5 points
  6. We don't carry a spare. They're available in SO many places. But, as I've said before, we may just enjoy the lighter load, and "living on the edge." Our spare parts kit is probably laughable to many. Some fuses, a few switches, a bit of pex, a few bits of wire, electrical tape, some led bulbs. A bearing kit. Duct tape, of course. A very small tool kit. Yes, we've had a few inconvenient failures over the years, but we've also learned that we can survive without a ton of everything with us. And, we probably wouldn't have had the board or component with us, anyway. Spare tires, plugs, fix a flat, tire pump will get us back on the road. Cell phone. And, most importantly, credit card, towing insurance, and a good attitude.
    5 points
  7. I have been following the discussion on this topic and just want to restate that with a mod done to the furnace duct system and zero changes to the water piping and adding no extra insulation I have tested in sub zero temperatures for two and half days with water system not winterized and experience no adverse affects. I have read about many different mods to accomplish the goals of a four season camper and the troubles to hit that goal. I will admit that I have not had the opportunity to do further testing such as how it would do traveling with the furnace on, or if parked and experiencing very windy conditions. I think the initial test show very promising results and the mods to the duct system were not that difficult to do. I know this is relying on the heating system functioning but even a house up in Minnesota relies on the furnace working to avoid plumbing freeze ups. I did my mods not so much to camp in the winter but to have a bench mark of what it could withstand if I got caught in a cold snap while out camping. Here is a link to a how to for anybody that is trying to get the Oliver ready for winter camping. Here are some temperatures in different locations in the camper during testing.
    4 points
  8. Steve and Deb, Congrats! Try and get some good rest Tuesday evening before delivery day. And most of all have a great time! David & Kathy
    4 points
  9. Have a great time! Don't be afraid or too courteous to approach anyone you see to just say hello or ask a question - I've never met an Oliver person that wasn't anything but kind and helpful. From what I've seen over the past months, you guys are as prepared as you can be. But, you will still be fed a bunch of information in a short period of time. Make sure that you give yourself some "relaxing" time. Bill
    4 points
  10. Donā€™t freeze yourself out of the back and forthā€¦ the more input the better! Mike
    4 points
  11. I love these mods. For now, I just use some of the initial cold water coming from the hot water line to brush my teeth and rinse out my shaver. Our last fifth wheel had the water heater located right next to the bathroom. A very smart design, now that I think about it.
    3 points
  12. Thanks for the tip on summing up all propane users for the trailer and comparing to the max BTU output from the regulator. Here's what I found out about my Hull 505 Propane Users: Propane draws Norcold N412.3FUI: 1,200 BTU/HR. *From Fridge Service Manual* Suburban Furnace: 18,000 BTU/HR. *Printed on Side of Furnace* Truma Waterheater: 60,000 BTU/HR. * Printed on Side of Water Heater* Outland Fire Bowl : 58,000 BTU/HR. *From Specs on Outland Website* Dometic Cooktop : 9,600 BTU/HR. * From Domestic Website* Sum of ALL: 146,800 BTU/HR Other BBQā€™s etc: TBD So it appears the smaller 262,000 BTU regulator will work just fine and can feed all those things running at the same time...and I shouldn't worry about upgrading to the larger 345K BTU regulator that was originally on the unit. I still have one in the box if anyone needs it. Craig
    3 points
  13. I decided to weigh my trailer because there is a lot of discussion. I have a set of scales I use to do weight and Ballance on Aircraft and they are very accurate. I did a quick and dirty weight but will re do it on the hanger floor in another week fully loaded. The trailer is a 2022 LEII with solar, lithium a convection microwave and two full 30 Gallon propane tanks. At the moment it is still winterized so it has no water. We have a Lavio toilet so there is no black tank water. It is loaded and ready to go with everything we travel with less the 240pounds of fresh water. The trailer weighs in at 5,220 pound add the fresh water and we are at 5,460 pounds. The weight on the tongue is 509 lbs. I plan to re weigh it with the fresh water full to see if it changes the tongue weight. So thatā€™s it in a nut shell. Before someone comments I put the trailer back down level on the tires and moved the load cell under the trailer ball to get the tongue weight, I did not take a picture of it. Bill
    2 points
  14. Some National parks have a "Max Rig Length", for example, when we were towing our 30' Airstream, we often came across parks that had a 45' "Total Rig Length" and we were 53'. It is because of the narrow roads and tight turns. Now, with our new LE II, we are well within the 99 percentile. BL
    2 points
  15. Interesting article on possible future tow assist system. Makes your compact car tow like a 1 ton https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/03/gm-files-patent-for-tow-assist-system/
    2 points
  16. This would make backing up almost impossible because of the extra added hitch connection between the tow vehicle and trailer, plus the extra length. The patent mentions a stability function while towing but unless it includes some incredible computer assisted smarts to also help with backing up while connected to the tow vehicle, this wouldnā€™t be practical. The one diagram shows a person using this tow assist as a trailer valet but having to unhook and do that every time you needed to back up would be a pain.
    2 points
  17. I've only been towing an Ollie for 5 years so more experienced owners may want to chime in, but in my opinion the answer seems to be "it depends". I'll explain... The Oliver is a smooth, nicely rounded trailer and is *generally* very well behaved on the highway... *assuming* a bunch of things like: properly sized & inflated tires, no excessive speeds, properly sized and equipped tow vehicle, load-leveling Anderson hitch (if indicated by your tow vehicle/trailer combination), neither trailer or tow vehicle are overloaded or excessively top-heavy, etc. That said, heavy traffic, bad weather, rough or slippery road conditions or cross-winds require more caution. Heavy cross-winds or extremely gusty winds can be dangerous on their own, and even more so if a large truck passing from either direction either adds to the "gust velocity" that the tow vehicle or trailer are exposed to, or temporarily shields you from the gusty winds and then you become rapidly "exposed" again after they pass. Slow down, stay focused on your surroundings and maintain a good grip on the wheel. If it gets too bad, find a safe spot to pull over until its safe to continue.
    2 points
  18. FREEZE myself out? Pun intended? Thanks much for the support.
    2 points
  19. Wrote an updated BLOG post on this after posting: https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/whats-that-humming-sound In it I give part numbers for the two regulators that can be used. The original factory 345,000 BTU/BR regulator data sheet (top half) is here as reference.
    2 points
  20. Thanks for posting, this is very cool! But %^*+! šŸ˜‰ Please put a soft cotton towel under your whale tail. Or suspend it with a bungee cord under the coupler hole. Half of that Andersen weight is carried by the truck, after all.ā€¦. I used to weigh light aircraft, it was a task I greatly enjoyed. More than greasing the gear and wheel bearings. If you donā€™t mind, please post a pic of your hanger and whatā€™s inside. As far as redoing it all on your hanger floor goes, why bother? Itā€™s a trailer, not a piano. As I was told more than once by my supervisors, perfect isnā€™t needed, just good enough. As an anal compulsive that is hard to hear, and much harder to do. I canā€™t wait until I see your rearranged trailer wiring. LOL, here is my new compressor fridge digital control harnessā€¦.. Isothermā€™s ā€œsolutionā€ during my initial smoke test: And my solution to their solution: We need more aircraft techs participating in this forum. I was lamenting to myself that I no longer have access to an avionics wire marking tool. John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  21. LE2 Ollies tow just fine with a TW lighter than 10%. The caveat being that your tires and suspension must be in good shape. Worn out bushings, worn tires and blown shocks are very bad news for stability. The last time I measured, my TW was 480 lbs with an ā€œestimatedā€ normal camping weight of 6000. I do not recall any Ollie owner ever mentioning instability, nor an accident caused by sway... John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  22. A spare is always a good thing. I plan on bumping up to a little larger LP regulator like @GraniteStaters mentioned in another post. This is to avoid having any issues with running other LP appliances while running the generator. I will keep the old as a spare. They are easily found on Amazon or other vendors with a quick google search. PatriotšŸ‡ŗšŸ‡ø
    2 points
  23. Craig: Don't know which furnace and stove you have, but if you check their BTU input ratings you could find the answer. If the actual required loads are less than the rated load, you're golden. Here is all the Suburban models that are in my 2018 hull 342 furnace O&M manual: I suspect as you are way under the rated load, you will be fine. But do add up all your gas usages (BBQ, Stove, etc.) just to be sure. JPRussell
    2 points
  24. We do not bring but a few clothes that need to hang. We felt like we were losing so much storage area. I built shelves to fill the lower area of the closet. That curve is a bugger to work with. Shelves have a 4" lip in the front to help hold the gear. They are not perfect but work well.
    1 point
  25. I recently had my original gas regulator die on Hull 505. I wasn't paying close attention when I ordered the replacement and ended up ordering one with a lower BTU Rating. The original Hull 505 part - GR-9984XF with 345,000 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I should have ordered. The replacement part - GR-9994XF has 262,500 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I have now sitting in a box. Since I learned of my error, I've ordered the original part and left the other new in the original box. I can't return it as the time's expired for exchange. Net Result: I have a NEW in Box GR-9994XF sitting in my garage. I'm wondering if the GR-9994XF would work as a spare for those of you with newer trailers that no longer have the Gas Fridge? If you're interested in the unit...send me a private message and we can work out details. Craig Short
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. I started towing trailers with my dad, when I was in high school. It was scary. I still remember. Since you're new to towing, before you order a trailer, you might consider renting a small trailer from outdoorsy or rvshare a few times. Stay off the interstate, take smaller roads, see how you feel. When/if you do get a new Ollie, drive the small roads vs the interstate for awhile. You'll get the hang of it. Our little Ollie tows remarkably well, but there is a learning curve to towing. Take heart. No one was born with those skills. Everyone has to learn, sometime. It just takes some time and practice. And, get some practice before towing with a new tow vehicle, if that's what you decide on. Starting out with a new vehicle, plus a new trailer, plus never towing before, is a prescription for anxiety, imo.
    1 point
  28. It's much less stressful if you have a substantial tow vehicle. Not just pulling power, but lots of mass with good brakes, so your trailer doesn't overpower your truck. For an Elite 2 many here prefer a 3/4 or 1 ton truck (although many are towing successfully with 1/2 ton trucks, too). No-one ever complained they had too much tow vehicle. Try to load your trailer evenly, or even biased toward the front a bit. Heavier tongue weights enhance stability. Plus, everything @ADKCamper said above. For maximum stability in a towable, go with a fifth wheel. They have the pivot point above the rear axle, which stops any of the tail-wagging-the-dog you can get with travel trailers. (Although Olivers are some of the most stable bumper pulls.) Lots of options out there, including special hitches, too.
    1 point
  29. Pun intended. Was waiting to see if anyone noticedā€¦
    1 point
  30. No, you're not. We have hundreds of posts on cold weather camping, and cold weather campers appreciate all of them.
    1 point
  31. Immediately got on Amazon and ordered it. I love this forum. In addition to helping me fix problems I have, it teaches me about problems I didn't even know I have. Yea!
    1 point
  32. I was thinking the same thing but I have not had any funny feelings towing it all seems pretty stable to me. With that said Iā€™ve only towed about 1,500 miles to date. I also have two full 30 gallon propane tanks so that adds weight up front. like I said Iā€™m going to fill my fresh water tank and re weigh it, maybe it will put weight up front. I also usually have two bicycles on the back which will move weight back. With in a week or so I will weigh it again with bikes, water and make sure my propane is topped off and see how much things change. Bill
    1 point
  33. I donā€™t think so. We have had a lot of time where the temps were below freezing, both stationary and while moving) with no issues. I donā€™t winterize. Weā€™ve had two occasions where the temps here in south Texas got into single digits and stayed below freezing for days. I kept the heat on, opened hatches and had no problems. If I was looking for a cold weather trailer for camping in constant below freezing weather I would be looking at a Nash/Arctic Fox or even better an Outdoor RV. They have a lot more insulation in the walls and ceiling, enclosed tanks with dedicated heat ducting plus tank heaters. The Oliver 4 season capabilities are for how most of us camp - above freezing with occasional, but not sustained, below freezing camping. Mike
    1 point
  34. Well the window is tight as a drum, but the door seal by the hinges on the other hand, OMG, might as well be a strainer. New separate posting coming for that.
    1 point
  35. Here are a few pics of the mod mentioned above - Dog house Edge of bed rails.
    1 point
  36. we are getting off the core topic but i have plenty of power to run the trailer components with the generator(s). the issue I experience: I don't seem to have enough propane flow to run the generator and trailer components that run on propane at the same time. This could be solved by switching the hot water and refrigerator to AC and run them from the generator's power. I believe the author of this post is having trouble with getting propane to the generator when tapped into the trailer propane line. I was suggesting they might try turning off the propane flow to these trailer components and see if this gives more propane flow to run the generator.
    1 point
  37. Interesting..something does not sound right. I can run the Dometic AC with an easy start and micro wave without any issues with my Honda. The new Truma Aventa we are having Oliver install in May will require the power of our eu3000is. As of right now the Truma Aventa can not be installed with an easy start as it will void the Truma warranty. Weā€™ll learn more in May once we get the Truma installed,
    1 point
  38. I have run both the Champion 3500 duel fuel and a Honda 2200 converted with the Hutch Mt gear as a single and/or paired (two 2200's) successfully from the quick release propane value at the nose of the trailer. I have found the generator can get starved for fuel if I'm running the furnace and refrigerator at the same time as the generator. I simple turned off one of the appliances inside the trailer to run the generator.
    1 point
  39. Thatā€™s all a part of making your Ollie yours! šŸ‘šŸ»šŸ‘šŸ»šŸ˜Š
    1 point
  40. These are all great little fixes that I'm sure I'll utilize once Ollie-Haus arrives. I'm OCD about fixing the little things that can be improved for everyday use. BTW I recognized that Springfield Armory pistol lock you used on your tanks immediately!šŸ˜† I own more than one version of the XDm line they offer and each comes with the same lock. You've discovered a better use for it. šŸ˜‰
    1 point
  41. I opted to go a different route and use the wing nut as a lock. I used a drill bit and an old firearms cable lock to at least try and secure the tanks. I could have used a padlock I suppose. This cable lock has molded plastic around the lock and wonā€™t rattle or bang on the tanks under tow. Can it be defeated? Yes as most locks can be. It may slow a thief down. When I switched over to 30# tanks I installed a shorter threaded rod readily available at Loweā€™s or HD. PatriotšŸ‡ŗšŸ‡ø
    1 point
  42. Everything oxidizes when left outside and in the sun, so not doing anything will defiantly speed up the oxidation process. On ours I buffed in once a year with a good marine fiberglass compound and our trailer after four years looks just like new, yes it does require getting up on some scuffling (ladder not recommended) with a buffer and buffing it, not a fun job. Like I have said many times, being a retired body shop manger for some 30 plus years there is no miracle product that will stop oxidation, but removing it is possible and that's buff it off. The ceramic coatings my be the best way to go for some, but for myself, it's just a coverup and in time your will still have to have it buffed to get down to the original gel coat finish to get the original luster of the trailer back to where it all started. I realize this process may not be able to be done by many, so I would do what works for you, a nice metal building would also work, plus it does bring value to your property. trainman
    1 point
  43. The obstruction under the fridge is a gas barrier. That entire compartment is supposed to be completely blocked from the rest of the cabin, in case there is a propane leak. OTH there is no reason you canā€™t cut an access hole in the panel. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  44. Hey Mossey I originally tried to run the line up the curb side but ran in to a obstruction about by the door, figured it had to be some kind of support for the floor. I tried going from both ways but had to abandon it. Starting from the bathroom and running it down along side the drain pipe for the black tank work out really well and once clearing the end of the grey tank it is wide open to cross over to the curb side. The plumbing part of the job went really fast compared to the wiring side of the job. To be honest I never checked out going back to where the fresh water line comes into the trailer. Here are some pictures of where I tee into the fresh water fill line a short distance before the tank.
    1 point
  45. Meow, meow. Meow meow meow. Purrrrrrr. šŸ˜½
    1 point
  46. The seed was planted for this furnace mod when we grabbed a canceled reservation three weeks out at a Minnesota State Park. This reservation was mid October and when the date arrived the weather forecast had changed for the worse. We stayed for only two of the three days and we received our first snow of the season, 6 inches of wet snow. We had a non electric site and my batteries were having trouble making it through the night and I was concerned about the water freezing in the Oliver. I have already addressed switching to lithium batteries and posted about it on Oliver Forum. Now I want to share with you what I have done to relieve my worries about water freeze ups in the Oliver, provided that I have a functioning furnace. I first tried to identify the weak spots and came up with the following. Boondocking Inlet Outside Wash Station Fresh Tank Fill Inlet City Water Inlet Black Tank Flush Port Toilet Water Supply Line Hot & Cold Lines Crossing Back Of Oliver The Oliver has all of it's heat ducts run on the curbside which protect the kitchen and the bathroom faucets from freezing. My plan is to run a 2" ducting along the back to the street side and terminating in to the trough that the water lines run in for the city water inlet, fresh tank fill inlet and outside faucet. This trough also has the check valves for those two inlets and has the floor of the exterior storage compartment covering over the top of it. To get at the trough you will have to remove the back wall of the storage compartment and flip the mat back that covers the floor. This exposes the water lines that come across the back of the trailer and drop into that trough. There is a wall that separates the furnace compartment from storage and extends past the wall you just removed. It has a opening for the water lines and it is large enough to run the 2" duct through it and on top of the water lines across the back and into the trough. Now you can flip the mat back down and they are long enough to cover the water lines and the newly installed 2" duct, then the wall is put back in place. On the connection to the furnace I removed the back of the heat exchanger. There is one hard to get at screw on the bottom but the rest are easily accessible. I made two holes, a 2" and a 4" in that back plate. I could not find a 2" starter collar locally so I bought two 4" and removed the rivets on one of them and formed a two inch collar, cut to length and re-rivet. I then installed the 2" and 4" starter collars to the heat exchanger back panel and then the panel to the furnace. I then hooked up the 2" duct to the furnace. Looking in to the access hole under the street side bed you are able to see where the water lines come up and out of the trough and to the valve of the out side wash station. When the furnace fan is running it will blow out a lit Bic Lighter held in that area. So we're protecting water lines, the check valves and dumping warm air underneath the outside wash station valve. Now back at the furnace I attach a 4" heavy duty aluminum foil duct to the newly installed starter collar. It is routed forward a short distance until it can be routed across the basement to the street side and then fed between the hot and cold water lines that go to the outside wash station valve. At this point I need to use a 4" coupler that is 6" long to attach the next 8' piece of 4" duct. I use the 6" long coupler so I can add holes if I need to flood a area with heat, this particular coupler did not need to. I then routed the duct from the wash station valve along the outer wall and over the wheel well, make the corner by the battery compartment and then once getting past the wheel well go down and under battery compartment. Up in that corner I attach a adhesive base 3/4" cable anchor so I can loop a 20" releasable tie strap through it and around the 4" duct holding it up and out of the way. A second 20" tie strap is used were the duct heads down under the battery compartment, it utilizes the loop that anchors the 4/0 cable coming out of the battery compartment. Next I prep another 6" long 4" coupler by adding a metal mounting bracket. It is bolted to the coupler using two 10-24 machine screws that go through the bracket the coupler wall and then a backing plate that has tapped holes. This coupler I will add a1" hole that will be pointed up to flood heat at the battery compartment. The mounting bracket will be utilizing the upper bolt of the support leg for the battery compartment. This keeps the duct up and away from the inverter and electrical components and positions it to flood heat up against the bottom of the battery compartment. The next length of 4" duct is clamped to that coupler and routed up from under the battery compartment over to and along the wheel well. It is held by two 20" tie straps similar to the other side. Because I want to run the heat duct under the foot space of the dinette I need to transition to 2" duct. There is access via the same trough that I utilized in the back of the trailer, but at the front there is more room and I am able to pull the 2" ducting through. From there it continues toward the front until it reaches the black tank flush inlet where it then follows that pipe back along the black tank and terminates by the water supply line for the toilet. At the transition point I add two more short pieces of 2" duct and route them down to where the main black tank drain pipe goes under the dinette foot space, they are terminated on either side of that pipe. There was not enough room to run the 2" duct but enough to force air along either side. At the transition from 4" to the three 2" ducts I simply inserted the three 2" into the end of the 4" and used aluminum foil duct tape to seal the transition. I also want to mention that I used the aluminum foil duct tape to reinforce the ends of every 4" duct by wrapping outside and inside before clamping. That should cover the install, now lets talk about the results of the test in subzero weather. I rounded up seven digital thermometers and put them in the areas I was concerned about. Was placed just inside the empty rear storage compartment. Was placed on top of the batteries and a piece of acoustical insulation that was for large generator enclosure, it was 1-1/2" thick and 19" square. This was squeezed in the opening before the door was closed. Was placed in the rear basement curbside next to boondocking inlet. Was placed in the rear basement street side below the outside wash station valve. Was placed on the floor of the closet with the door left closed. Was placed on the lower shelf in the vanity in the bathroom with the door left closed. Was placed in front basement street side next to the black tank flush port line. I moved it out of the heated shed at 1:00 pm on Sunday 2-7-21. I moved it back in at 3:00 pm on Tuesday 2-9-21. The furnace was cycling off and on at -4 ' but I noticed at -8' and colder it ran continuous. I have the Truma water heater and that was also turned on. I checked propane consumption by putting on two 20 pound tanks that I had weighed and left them in place for 12 hours. It was -12' when I put them on and -2' when I took them off. Because of the subzero temperature the propane was not gasifying very well and the regulator automatically changed from the primary to the reserve after only consuming 2.353 gallons. The total consumed out of both tanks in 12 hours was 3.294 gallons, so that would be .274 gallons in one hour. My Victron BMV-712 was telling me that I had depleted my 400 Ah Battle Born batteries to 47% and at rate of use I had two days and nine hours left. I thought I would comment on a couple of things I like about the outcome of the project. The bathroom was comfy warm and the wall next to the bed was not icy cold. I am not planing to take up subzero camping but it does gives me a benchmark to go off of for any situation that I might run in to. If you have any suggestions or see something that is of concern please let me know. Paul
    1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. Yes, I did for many years. Then needed it. Don't now. šŸ™‚
    0 points
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