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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/22/2023 in all areas
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Great rally this year! Thanks to Scott Oliver and his staff and the great folks at Lake Guntersville State Park. If you have pictures this is the place to post them! Here’s the sunset from the lodge after Wednesday’s dinner. One of the best rally activities, sitting around talking! Right to left - Scott Oliver, Ken Cvacho, Lee Slusher and Terry Slusher. This group grew as the evening progressed! Trailers with a view of the lake.8 points
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Made it home to Indiana from the rally safe and sound today. Nine hours driving straight through with three stops. Traffic was heavier than I would expect on a Sunday but manageable. My neighbor mowed my grass because he's such a great guy! Site reserved for next year and can't wait. It was such a blast! Safe travels everyone!6 points
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Just about finished installing the cargo box we ordered from Amazon. FYI: Used 6 each, 1 1/4" self-tapping screws with lock washers over a 1/8" x 2" x 18" aluminum band across the back (port/stbd) to distribute the load. Used a shorter 8" piece (fore/aft) in the center. A single screw with a fender washer was used for the forward-most position over the A-frame where a spacer was used under the box. We're using the box to secure items such as OTT 30A Furrion power cord & adapters, surge protector, fresh water hose/filter, plastic "Leggo" blocks, wheel chocks, torque wrench, Magnus' cable lanyard, and there's room left over. Thanks to @John E Davies, @ScubaRx, @Ollie-Haus and others for their suggestions and recommendations... We also think this idea will be a game changer for better access to items needed for set-up. Beats the "deep knee squat - bending over drill" to pull boxes out of the rear storage compartment! HA! IMG_7354.HEIC IMG_7353.HEIC5 points
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I posted some pictures years ago when I installed my box but I can’t find the thread. Part of my box is on the fiberglass and part is over the aluminum tongue. I used a piece of a workout mat (square puzzle like pieces) on top of the aluminum to make the mounting surface even. Then, I simply drilled three holes through the box and through the fiberglass and used some stainless steel bolts to secure the box. I have a piece of yoga mat on the bottom of the box to cover the bolt heads. I’ll try to find some pictures. Here’s a shot of the bolts, the placement was determined by the configuration of the tongue underneath. A blurry shot from underneath the tongue. It doesn’t look like much but it has been very stable over the last 5 years or so.5 points
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Thank you, Chris. I was genuinely surprised at how many people we saw using the list! I’m glad that it came in handy. It was funny, because when I’d handout a contact card, invariably, the response would be “Oh, you’re the list guy” or “ Oh, you’re Curiously! I loved the story” We met so many wonderful people and already look forward to next year. You’ll again find us on G23. We’ve also made plans with several Ohio, Indiana, and at least one Illinois owners to get together in Indiana late September or early October. Thank you all for making our first rally so memorable! Steve and Deb4 points
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I was too! There may other, more elegant ways to mount it. I figured it wasn’t coming off and if it did I’d replace it with something so the holes won’t show.4 points
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All for a good cause.. $20 a single ticket, 10 for $100. (Enters you in all the packages, including a voucher for a brand new truck!) Thanks for the link, @Katjo!3 points
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Mike, could you (or others that have installed this or a similar box) perhaps send some photos of how you attached it to the trailer frame? If doing it again, might you do it differently? Thanks!3 points
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@Steve Morris Thanks for you site-to-name list you maintained for this year's rally. It was very helpful to have it bookmarked on my phone to cross reference who I was face-to-face with. Hopefully someone will take up the torch for next year's rally. I know many of us have already reserved out site for next year.3 points
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SAME Here, in fact I was actually working on tightening it up, when I thought I would "Go To The Forum" and find a remedy. and here i am... Ours has worked its way loose since delivery/pickup many times. You have a better picture than I was able to get. I believe what we are seeing here is something like a "Delta Mounting Nut", on their single stem kitchen sinks. Back off the 2 "tightening screws" about one turn, then hand tighten the "mounting nut" (you can see the threads) as tight as you can, then tighten up the 2 screws. that should put enough tweak on the mounting nut to hold it in place. on my delta sink at home, it has one tighten screw, so when tightened, it puts a little tweak but just on one side, but that has held for years and is used a hundred times a day... I am going to work on mine now and see if I can get it tightened up before we leave for "VACA"...2 points
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Great question! We’ve been wanting to add a box to ours as well. We are swaying on buying the one Mike and Carol posted, I’m just a little nervous about drilling through the fiberglass.😬2 points
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Mileage seems about the same, but it sure does feel slick. I’m sure washing will be easier too.2 points
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The last several years we have had our share of forest fires in Oregon. I will still camp if I smell the smoke, it has become almost normal in the summer. I will pick up and go home if there is visible ash in the air, and the sky is grayish orange. I do not want to get trapped close to a fire. We evacuated a few years ago for a couple of days because the fires were close. The Oliver is now our relocation home in the advent of another evacuation.2 points
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Oh my, that is impressive. I would be curious to know if you noticed any difference in mileage. Probably too negligible to tell, but has to improve a little.2 points
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We are staying at a hoity toity resort RV park in Bend OR, $210 for 2 nights. For the low rent spots. I think the best spots require your first born child. I seldom dump into a raised sewer pipe, so I never bought a sewer snake, I thought it would just gather dust. So I improvised with the ramp for the 1-Up bike tray. I dislike hookups that require you to lay your fresh water hose on ground that has been irrigated regularly with sewage spills, so I bypassed that area. Off to the ocean tomorrow - Tillicum Beach CG USFS, we will have to rough it once again. Then I can fret about rogue waves and tsunamis instead of germs. We lost one of our Australian Labradoodles the day before we departed home, we had to euthanize Zadie. Zack, her son for ten years, is quite lost and forlorn, as are my wife and I. John Davies Spokane WA2 points
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Another voting option is needed- ”Not affected but still concerned for those who are affected”.2 points
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I am looking for an enclosed aluminum box to mount where the factory "basket" goes on the front frame. Has anyone found one that fits well and has some room for tools and odds and ends?1 point
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Summary I have installed a rear mounted cargo carrier, with lights, to our 2022 Oliver Legacy Elite II (LEII) travel trailer. We recently completed a two week, ~2000 mile trip, using the cargo carrier, which performed flawlessly. Below are photos of the installed cargo carrier, which are followed by a detailed description of its installation. Storage Constraints Prior to ordering our Oliver Legacy Elite II (LEII) travel trailer I knew we would need additional storage space on the trailer. We are using a 2014 BMW X5 35d (diesel) as our tow vehicle, rather than a pickup truck. Thus, we could not plan to use the pickup bed for supplemental storage. We also needed to stay within the tow vehicle's cargo capacity of 1100 lbs and maximum tongue weight of 600 lbs.. Expecting a tongue weight of approximately 500 lbs. plus two occupants at approximately 300 lbs, we could only accommodate a maximum of 300 lbs. of other cargo. The available payload will be partially used by our camera gear, which must be protected from exposure to moisture. A tongue mounted cargo carrier was not viable, given the tongue weight limit for the tow vehicle. Storage Requirements I anticipated needing additional storage space for the following items: Champion Dual Fuel Generator- 2500 watt (~45 lbs.) (too large for basement storage) Napoleon TravelQ™ 285 Portable Propane Gas Grill and hose (~35 lbs.) (too large for basement storage) Anderson Ultimate Leveling kit (~25 lbs) Harbor Freight rubber chocks (4) (~20 lbs.) Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports (3) (~10 lbs.) Miscellaneous accessories All of these items can tolerate some exposure to moisture, which is likely when stored in any external cargo carrier. A closed and reasonably secure cargo carrier was needed. Searching the owners' forum, I found examples of rear cargo carriers/bike racks and found several examples, including: Oliver's original bike rack design using twin receivers and extending approximately 3 feet beyond the rear bumper; Various rear mounted metal cargo boxes, including custom designs; Rear mounting of an Oliver tongue cargo box by John E. Davies. I also looked extensively at aluminum cargo boxes from various manufacturers, trying to find options which could accommodate the cargo items listed above. I already owned a cargo carrier which we had used on the BMW X5 tow vehicle. This carrier has a heavy steel swing-away frame which mounts to a standard 2" receiver. Mounted on the steel frame are a polypropylene tray and an enclosed container with 13.5 cubic foot capacity. The tray and enclosed container interlock. This cargo carrier also is equipped with fully functional lights (running, brake, turn, flasher). Interlocking pins on the enclosed container mate with the tray. Locking latches secure the container to the tray. Solution Approach I decided to re-use the polypropylene tray and enclosed cargo container, but not the heavy steel frame. Instead, I would use a design similar to the original Oliver bike rack. I ordered the current optional Oliver bike rack when we placed our LEII order, planning to utilize some, but not all, of its components. The current Oliver rear hitch (photo below) utilizes twin receivers that are 11" long, constructed to receive 2" x 2" X 0.25" (wall thickness) T6061 aluminum square tube support arms, which are 17 inches long. The receivers are each mounted to the LEII frame by two long 0.5" diameter stainless steel bolts and nuts. The other components of the rack are a 2" x 5" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum cross-member, 51-1/8" long (with end caps), and a 1-1/4" receiver for connecting a bike rack. I planned to use the twin receivers, and the cross-member, but not the support arms, nor the 1-1/4" receiver. Instead, I would replace the 17" long original support arms with longer equivalents, whose length was to be determined. I would utilize the original 2" x 5" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum cross-member and add another cross member, this one 2" x 2" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum, also 51-1/8" inches long with end caps. The cross members would be bolted to the support arms, in the same manner as on the Oliver rear hitch. The tray and enclosed container from my existing cargo carrier would be mounted to the cross-members. Note the clevis pins circled in the photo below, there are two 0.50" diameter horizontal clevis pins securing the support arms in their receivers. Each clevis pin has a washer on either side of the receiver. Removing the clevis pins permits the support arms to be pulled to the rear, enabling removal of the spare tire cover and spare tire without dismount the support arms. Solution Model A critical dimension to be determined was the length of the 2" x 2" x 0.25" support arms. The new support arms need to be long enough to: Support the polypropylene tray and enclosed cargo box and attach using the molded mounting holes in the tray; Allow the lid of the enclosed cargo box to open without striking the spare tire cover; Permit removal of the spare tire cover and spare tire without removing the cargo carrier and support frame; Permit access to waste water hoses stored behind the bumper; Minimize the additional length of the cargo carrier and support frame to the LEII's length. I fabricated 2" x 2" wooden support arms, approximately 40" long. Using woodworking equipment, I cut slots into one end of each support arm to fit around the bolts holding the twin receivers to the frame. I also drilled horizontal holes for the clevis pins which retain the support arms in the receivers. Positioning the Cargo Carrier on the Cross-members The wooden support arms were inserted into the twin receivers and secured with the clevis pins. Then the 2" x 5" x 51.125" T6061 cross-member was placed across the support arms near the bumper. The additional 2" x 2" x 51.125" wooden cross-member, was also placed across the support arms, but further from the bumper. Clamps were used to hold the cross-members in place on the support arms. The polypropylene tray and enclosed container, latched together, were positioned on the cross-members, centering both to the trailer's width. I opened the lid of the enclosed container and adjusted the spacing (fore and aft) between the lid and the spare tire cover to ensure they did not contact each other. Once I had located the joined tray and enclosed container in what appeared to be a desirable position, I adjusted the positions of the cross-members fore and aft to establish alignment with the mounting holes in the tray. The 2" x 5" cross-member engages two mounting holes on each side of the tray. The 2" x 2" cross- member engages only one mounting hole on each side of the base of the tray. Six 5/16" carriage bolts will fasten the tray to the cross-members. Only four carriage bolts attached the tray to its original steel support frame. I used a mason's string stretched across the width of the tray with weights on either end to aid in aligning the mounting holes in the tray with the positions of the cross-members. I also used carpenter's squares to verify the cross-members were perpendicular to the support arms. Another check of squareness was made by measuring the distance from the trailer bumper to the cross-members. Once I was satisfied with the position of the tray and enclosed container on the support structure, I marked the locations for the holes to be drilled for the six mounting bolts to secure the tray to the cross-members. The tray overhangs the rear cross-member at the rear. With the cargo carrier tray and enclosed container in place on the clamped cross-members, I wanted to determine if the spare tire cover could be removed without removing the entire cargo carrier and support assembly. I found I could remove the clevis pins and pull the support arms aft approximately 7 inches out of the twin receivers and enable removal of the spare tire cover. With the tray and enclosed container positioned on the cross-members, I could now determine the required length of the support arms, which is 33.75 inches. The location of the rear cross-member determines the length of the support arms. After locating the mounting position of the tray and enclosed container I marked all key positions and hole locations on the wooden support arms and wooden rear cross-member. I cut the wooden support arms to the desired final length. Material Sourcing and Machining The required T6061 aluminum components required are: 2" x 2" x 0.25" x 33.75", square tube, quantity 2 (support arms), cost= $110.18 2" x 2" x 0.25" x 51.125", square tube, quantity 1 (cross-member), cost= to $99.08 2" x 12" x 0.125", flat bar, quantity 1 (to be cut into 2" squares for end caps on the support arms and rear cross-member), cost= $6.86 Sales tax= $17.83 No shipping charge. I picked up the materials at the local Metal Supermarkets warehouse Total cost= a $233.95 The above T6061 aluminum components, cut to specified length, were obtained from: Stainless steel bolts and nyloc nuts were obtained from: I was referred by Metal Supermarkets to a local machine shop: When I received the materials I took them and my wooden mockups of the support arms and cross-member to Air & Earth. I also took one of the original support arms. I discussed the machining needed: to cut the slots in one end of the support arms and to drill the needed 0.50 diameter holes for the clevis pins and mounting bolts. I also asked them to cut the 2" x 0.125" flat bar into 2" x 2" squares. I did not ask them to drill the smaller holes for mounting the cargo tray to the cross-members. I was quoted $220 and turnaround of the job within a week. They did an excellent job within the promised timeframe. Finishing and Assembly of the Support Structure After Air & Earth completed the requested machining, I performed the following finishing steps, which included: Rounding the edges of the 2" x 2" square tubing on the slotted end to be inserted into the receivers. I used a 3" wide belt sander with 100 grit sanding belts to round the corners of approximately 12" of the tube which would be inserted into the receivers . The original Oliver support arms also had the corners rounded to more easily slide within the receivers. Several trial fittings were required to verify smooth insertion and removal to/from the receivers. The support arms and the rear cross-member were sanded with an orbital sander using 200 grit disks. This sanding removed markings on the tubes and made the surface textured, similar to the Oliver rear hitch components. The support arms were inserted into their receivers and fastened with the clevis pins. The cross members were aligned with the mounting holes on the support arms and bolted into place. The cargo tray was positioned on the 2" x 5" cross-member at the previously determined mounting position and holes drilled to mount the cargo tray. Holes were then drilled in the 2" x 2" rear cross-member. Carriage bolts, flat washers and double jamb nuts were used to secure the cargo tray to the cross-members. Once all test fittings of the support assembly were completed, lithium grease was applied to the ends of the support arms which are inserted into the receivers. 2" x 2" x 0.125" caps were attached to the open ends of the support arms and the rear cross-member, similar to the end caps used by Oliver. These were attached to the square tubing using JB Weld epoxy. Cargo Carrier Lighting The cargo carrier partially blocks visibility to the taillights of the trailer, which is most noticeable when viewed from close behind the trailer. At a distance the taillights are largely visible. The cargo tray is fitted with two LED light fixtures and a wiring harness with a 4-pin flat connector. A corresponding 4-pin flat connector was installed on the LEII to integrate the lighting on the cargo carrier with the trailer lighting. Details of the installation of the 4-pin connector in the trailer are covered in a separate article. The lights on the cargo carrier ensure the trailer is quite visible from behind. A license plate mount was added to the cargo carrier tray, since the license plate mount on the spare tire cover is blocked by the cargo carrier. Lighting for the license plate mount is provided by adding a Y connector to the license plate light cable under the spare tire cover and adding an extension cable routed to the cargo tray mounted license plate mount. I also added reflective tape to the support frame members. I used the following reflective tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/your-account/order-history/ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_search?opt=ab&search=reflective Conclusion This addition to our trailer provides significant benefits, with no significant disadvantages. It does add approximately two feet to the length of the trailer. Besides the additional storage space, the cargo carrier and its load slightly reduces the tongue weight. I measured the tongue weight, using a Sherline scale, at 450 lbs., with no water onboard. Tongue weight seems sufficient, as no swaying or other handling issues have been observed. This project had a successful outcome due largely to the information I was able to glean from the Oliver Owners Forum. I hope this information is useful to others on the forum. Comments and suggestions welcome. Regards, Don1 point
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Tiered annual fee determines how often the application scans for last minute cancellations and availability, across multiple reservation sites. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/harvest-hosts-launches-campscanner-to-help-campers-score-sold-out-national-parks-and-state-parks-301827777.htm https://www.campscanner.com/1 point
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Living in SW Montana summer fires have become a major issue here and it's not always the fires within our state. As often as not it has been fires from as far away as CA, OR, WA, NV & ID. Typically the prevailing winds are southwest to northeast this time of year but it can also change to dead west but this past week or so we had AQI's of over 150 on most days due to the fires in Canada especially Alberta. Unusual jet stream for this time of the year. Our valley is surrounded by mountains yet we could not see any of them due to the smoke, well maybe the Bridgers were slightly detectable on a few days in the mornings. And it's only May! This was a first in almost half a century of living here. Every single county within the state was on air quality alerts, and this is the 4th largest state just behind CA in size. Had planned on going out for a short night or two this past week but what was the point? Nothing to see out there. So yes fires do change when and where we camp. The sad part is there seems to be no end in sight looking into the distant future. It is worth noting today was much better with AQI of mid 40's with all mountain ranges visible. How long this clear spell last is anyone's guess. In conclusion I really feel for the folks who travel long distances to see the beauty of the west only to be met with smoke filled skies and no hope of even seeing these majestic landscapes. Safe travels.1 point
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I backed off the tension screws 3-4 rev's and was able to get another 1/4 turn on the mounting nut. Then re-tightened the 2 tension screws. the tightening screws appear to grip/anchor into the underside of the countertop, so that may end up being problematic, as it does not appear to have a metal washer between under side of sink counter and the mounting nut. A large Philips head with a 10-12" shank could possibly make it easier. One more item checked off before we leave. B~Out1 point
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@Katjo: Here's the link: ARKSEN 29 Inch Aluminum Diamond Plate Tongue Box Tool Chest, Waterproof Under Truck Storage for Pick Up Truck Bed, RV Trailer, ATV with Lock and Keys - Silver1 point
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The grease fitting ends are all the same but the thread sizes differ. Some are SAE, some are metric. Take one with you when you go to buy the new ones.1 point
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@Mark Meadows: Thanks, Mark - no worries! We made it back as scheduled after having a great time at Rocky Point. The Playa Bonita RV Park was probably 80-90% full capacity and we were lucky to have been assigned the last "on the beach" site. The 64 mile run from the border town of Sonoyta to Rocky Point was on very good roads and our "caravan" made it easily without hassle. We made reservations for next year before leaving.1 point
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You’d have been welcomed to do more than ogle! I’ve been surprised at how durable it’s been, especially considering the price. Will be interested in what you do. Mike1 point
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It appears that there is a 20% off sale going on now. https://fittingdesignsco.com/products/generator-lock-security-low-profile-mount-honda-generator-mount-predator-generator-mount-camping-travel-mount-truck-mount Patriot🇺🇸1 point
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I like the concept, but probably really only good for small sized hail. I doubt that it would do much for softball sized hail which is rare but does happen. I noticed a lot of one star reviews as well. But again, I like the idea. Probably better than pulling out blankets. 😀1 point
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Interesting. Carrie and I always carry our propane fire pit with us now. Growing up I was in the group of “it’s not camping without a big wood fire”. It’s good that some of us can evolve. Kirk1 point
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We live and camp in the eastern US. Barring drought, wildfires are less a concern, since most are contained early on. However, we’ve been camping in crowded parks where Smokey campfires we’re bothersome. I understand some parks will be designating some areas / loops as “campfire free”. I sincerely hope that western areas address the wildfire issue, as it has affected where we can go, road closures, etc. it’s a shame that it has affected your appreciation for camping to the point of considering not going.1 point
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These boxes are absolutely top of the line. Jim Oliver swore by them.1 point
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Here if you want a “custom” gen box- https://kshmarine.com/custom-generator-boxes/1 point
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I've had this box on the tongue of my utility trailer for about 8 years. It's actually a very nice box. Gas strut still works and the lock works fine if you need it. I purchased mine at Tractor Supply. They usually have them in stock at their stores.1 point
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Be aware that an inexpensive box is made of VERY thin aluminum, that is good for keeping down tongue weight, but it is super easy to damage or break into. A plastic version might prove to be more durable, and lighter. This box is less than 20 pounds shipping weight, it is one of those fragile ones. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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Follow up and result. I drilled out the rivet. 1/8” bit. I rigged a guard so I wouldn’t go to deep at first. I’ll try to add a picture. The nut was off inside the cover and this was reattached and I applied a drop of removable Loctite. Used the drill bit to push the rivet stem thru the fiberglass above. Lined up the holes and replaced the original rivets with 1/8” diameter by 1/2” length aluminum rivets.1 point
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We used what's called a, "synthetic clay mitt" before applying the base wax. They work great, just keep them "lubed" with either plain water or very diluted spray cleaner (we use Simple Green). It's definitely not for everyone, but we've got the time so we knock it out. The clay mitt removes any small debris and oxidation after the surface has been washed. We noticed that our "new-to-us" OTT had some oxidation buildup and the mitt cut right through it making the gelcoat look like and feel just like new. We've done our vehicles with the mitt for quite some time and by the end of the drill, the treated surface really looks great and makes subsequent washing/waxing much easier and quicker.1 point
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We had ours done last June...nice to get rid of the wax :) CGI did a wonderful job! John1 point
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The Red "Jelly Bean" Hull #010 owned by Brandi Schaffer is the lowest numbered hull that I know that is still on the road. It was originally delivered in January of 2008. She said that she'll be at the rally. Larry and Betty Harmon (mountainborn) bought the first Oliver sold Hull #003. It was delivered in September of 2007. I have seen it once since Larry sold it over 10 years ago. The Black "Gambler's Edition" Hull #009 was spotted behind an old building in Reno or Las Vegas several years ago. I don't have any more current info about it. But, if you take it one step further and look at who has the lowest Hull number AND is the original owner that would be Paul and Sherry Cavanaugh (SeaDawg) in their Hull # 012 originally delivered in February of 2008.1 point
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@Katjo: We also bought our Ollie used after a couple years of ogling over our friend's, reading threads, selling our SOBs, and then finally dropped the hammer on "Casablanca" back in March. So, we're new at the OTT ownership thing - but we're really loving everything about it. Been doing quite a bit of business with Ryder back at the Mothership's Parts Team - he's been helping us out routinely on many levels. One surprise we had (and there's been quite a few) was discovering the secret compartment below the pantry hatch about 7 weeks after we brought CB home. The PO didn't mention it during our walk-around inspection/intro. But inside (SURPRISE!) was a brand new kitchen sink cutting board made by Foy! I had just previously made one for my wife from an extra bamboo cutting board we had - so like I've said to her many times over the years, "ONE is None and TWO is ONE!" HA! Looking forward to hearing some more experiences along these lines from others! Cheers, y'all!1 point
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When you feel it necessary to personally reprimand or admonish a poster, please do it privately in an email, a PM, or over the phone. The quickest way to insure that this forum will turn bitter and discourteous is for moderators to scold board members in front of all other board members. This is a major NO No when dealing with people. Thanks for your consideration, Doug As a forum member here "Please do not speak for me" . If in your above post you were referring to yourself.... well then I may understand. Moderation of this forum is anything but oppressive and i don't think members are going to rally with you under the banner of "The Downtrodden" . Even the biggest of egos here seem able to be the friendliest and most helpful of any of the forums I frequent, aaah ...such a breath of fresh air! I for one would certainly be disappointed if things went the way you suggested they might. Hoping all will be able to offer each other a handshake of reconciliation on this forum when disagreements arise I wish you all long sunny days and happy travels. -Wayne1 point
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