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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2023 in all areas

  1. Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year! Enjoy the Oliver video! Mr and Mrs Patriot🇺🇸🎅🏻🧑🏻‍🎄
    6 points
  2. There have been a number of these types of "shelf mods" post here on the Forum over the years but this is one of the simpler examples. Since I travel mostly solo and don't really cook all that much inside the Ollie I don't have need for a shelf, but, to avoid splatter onto the bed area I have one of THESE. Easy to put up, take down and store and is inexpensive. But, it does not increase counter space. Bill
    4 points
  3. Anybody wanting to make a similar kinda mod?... You set all the magnets in the mounting position you prefer on the metal shelf, then clean all parts (and the cabinet edge to which it mounts) with alcohol and then apply the 3M tape on the magnets. Now you are almost there, Ready, Set, Go, no, no WAIT! All you have to do is push the shelf correctly into position! Better be straight, only one chance with VHB tape. Or there is another way. You can take hours to measure and tape each individual magnet, or why not make a CAD drawing first? 🤣 I would say that if you want to do it my way, practice the mounting movement a half dozen times, prior to taking the second side off the tape! Somehow, I got it level right up to the counter edge. Gotta love it! Wish my new water pump and valve switches install would go as smoothly!
    3 points
  4. I think you are right on this Steve. I am going to go with 55psi.
    2 points
  5. @Coddiwomple From the way I'm understanding this chart (I may be off whack), that particular size ST at 45psi would support 2020 pounds for a total trailer weight of 4040 pounds. A fully loaded Elite ready to camp, I suspect would weigh close to 4500+ pounds. I believe, if that is your true weight, it would be better to go up to 55psi. To carry your GVWR, you do need to be at 65psi.
    2 points
  6. 2 points
  7. Merry Christmas everyone! Hoping for a New Year full of travel and camping for everyone! Nice bottle of Amber Falls wine in the video, they are a HH if you want to do serious tasting then just walk back to your Oliver! Mike
    2 points
  8. We used a similar approach for the upgraded copper bus battery terminal:
    2 points
  9. The range extender does take up valuable bed space. Plus, it would get frustrating having to stop and charge, maybe even needing to disconnect the trailer to get into some chargers. Lots of RV’s in the western US and even if every gas station had chargers it would take a while waiting for the charging process to finish. I can fill my diesel tank in a lot less time. Mike
    2 points
  10. The reason I posted this is because a lot of us like to discuss new technology. There’s no suggestion that this would apply to the construction of an Oliver, it’s about a potential tow vehicle. I have no personal experience in working with steel or stainless steel as you do, I’m just going by the Tesla information that their truck panels are a special alloy that can’t be handled like normal SS. Mike
    2 points
  11. A couple folks had asked about the stops we made for Alaska 2023. Here's an updated map with the list of stops spelled out on the map. We share the number of days we stayed at each stop in parenthesis each way (Outbound, Return) Red stops are the ones we made down the Casiiar HWY as our return route. We had a couple of Alaska Commercial RV parks we wouldn't suggest staying at: 1) Trapper Creek AK - Don't bother with the mudpit called Trapper Creek RV park, there are free sites or State parks all around that are much better. We were simply looking for a dump and that was the suggestion from RV apps. 2) Northern Nights in Glenallen AK....is now under new ownership...and it's chaos there. There are other State and National Parks near there which are much better. If you have specific questions DM me on the forum. Craig - Hull 505 - Galway Girl
    2 points
  12. I was able to install this without any permanent scar to the Oliver. The magnets came with screws, instead I used 3M 4950 VHB. The earth magnets are staggered for strength, and I taped an aluminum bar to the shelf (see pic) so it would not slide down. It sits on the upper 3 magnets. It takes a good pop to remove the shelf! Took more time thinking than the work to install. Figure the shelf will sit between the mattress and the nightstand when we are sleeping. Nice budget on this mod. Shelf, magnets and tape from Amazon. Amazon.com: DIY CARTEL Made in USA Linear Floating Shelf - USA Manufactured Steel - Industrial Heavy Duty Metal Wall Mounted Modern Farmhouse Rustic Designed Shelf (24-in X 8-in Powder Coated White) : Home & Kitchen
    2 points
  13. Thanks for the Map, site info, and pics you were willing to share on this adventure. It sure looks like you had a wonderful trip. I am counting the days until we get to take a trip north.
    2 points
  14. These drawers are not at all intuitive when it comes to taking them out of the galley cabinet. It is dead easy if you pretend that you are a simpleton and don't over think things... . Stand over the end of the open drawer, reach under the sides at the very front with both hands. Put your fingers underneath on the inner edge of the orange release thingies and squeeze, move your fingers toward your palms. The latches will release and you can lift the drawer up and out, away from the slides, which will probably spring back out of sight. That is the "self closing" feature at work. Here is what is going on: The drawer is held to the latch assembly by two TINY SHORT screws. They are known to strip out the soft wood. Sometimes you will find the drawer lying up by the bathroom door with spatulas and other stuff scattered everywhere. Tighten them gently, they will move! If they are stripped, install longer ones. FYI this is a six year old drawer, Oliver may have altered these parts. For example, mine don't have the inner safety latches. Note that you might want to wear disposable gloves. EDIT: one member installed 1” long screws, driven into new holes at an angle, and found that to be a very solid way to do this. Here is the end of the slide, showing the opening that catches the latch. THIS IS SO VERY COOL! I just discovered it after all these years.... On the bottom of each slide, about 5 inches in from the end, is a tiny pin that sticks down. When reinstalling the drawer, you can use it to pull the slide outwards until it clicks into the latch. It keeps your fingers away from the grease too. Finally, you can flip each drawer and lay a thin bead of wood glue around the joint between the bottom and the sides and let it sit overnight. It will dry almost clear, so don't worry about minor mistakes. Plus nobody but you will ever know. I do not recommend gluing the inside of the drawers, that will show and it also has some sort of protective clear coat, so the glue might not stick. This thread is very much related: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2151-how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps/ John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  15. My husband Scott & I picked up our Ollie this past Monday. We decided to name her Pearl. She is now part of a growing family…. We have “Dug” (our Kioti tractor) and “Moe” (our John Deere rider) 😉 We’ve never owned a travel trailer before so there is a TON to learn. I love the resources that are on this site and really appreciate the advice that all of you give on a regular basis. We will hopefully feel more confident as time goes by. The only question that I have so far is an electrical one. We are storing Pearl at a storage facility that only offers a 110v outlet. They had an adaptor that they said would work, but it tripped the GFI on their outlet pole within seconds each time we tried to plug in. I”m guessing that maybe we just need a different type of adaptor? Have a great day! Scott & Cindy
    1 point
  16. Merry Christmas to All in the Oliver Family... May 2024 bring in Peace, Happiness, and Prosperity to us all Cheers! A & D
    1 point
  17. I went down the same path, had brackets like this on my Amazon Wishlist! Also thought of 'Z' brackets and other removeable options. The folding option was not going to work for us because we just purchased 12" tall mattresses from Brooklyn Bedding (a Phoenix AZ company, see rvmattress.com) and with the taller mattress the shelf would not fold down 90 degrees. Then when I found this great steel shelf the magnets seemed the way to go. Wish they had a 30" shelf, to hover over the 30" wide mattress, but choices were 24" or 36". Thought for a day or two of buying the 36" length and cutting it down to 30" but I would have had to get a machine shop to cut this steel exactly square so that it would look right. My advice, choose your shelf first and then select the mounting. Yes, VHB either way and purchase 3M 4950 VHB. I had another 3M VHB, black in color and thinner. I used it to mount the aluminum bar to the shelf, but it is not as strong, so I did not believe it would support the shelf. I wish I could post a video of me taking this shelf on and off. When the magnets grab, it loudly clicks into position, and you can feel how strong the mount is. If I was to do this again, with the same parts, perhaps 5 magnets vs. 6 would be the perfect recipe.
    1 point
  18. That's good enough reason and we all enjoy frequenting here for many reasons. Thanks Mike! ☺️ Some of my writing can be merely for exclamation, e.g. "Why are we talking about this here?" Didn't mean it literally, so please take no offense! This has been a fun post, even for us EV detractors! I've mainly seen stainless steel fab'd in the restaurant industry, where they curve the counter ends using a press and bend/shape SS panels to make exhaust hoods, etc. I didn't watch the video either and these fenders must be more than SS, as most stainless is relatively soft, and not at all "bullet-proof." You got me thinking of the DeLorean, after I posted that picture. I ended up watching some of Back to the Future which I had not seen in 30 years! 🤣
    1 point
  19. Thinking about future OTT having electric motors at the wheels for electro/mechanical assist while towing - extending the range even more. Nonetheless, we're eventually entering into a new realm of RV'ing...
    1 point
  20. I don’t think so. We can all agree it’s pretty tough stuff!
    1 point
  21. Should have watched the video first. I stand corrected. It appears to be bullet proof against pistol cartridges (.45ACP fired from a Colt 1921A1) - but I suspect a modern battle rifle cartridge (i.e., 5.56mm NATO) would sail right through it! Splitting hairs?
    1 point
  22. JD, thanks for posting that! Your use of VHB was part of the solution I was looking for. I’m thinking of using stainless folding shelf brackets that screw into wood strips that adhere to the counter side. Also thinking of possibly elongating the bracket screw hole with a slot that would allow a quick removal. Downside there is exposed screw heads.
    1 point
  23. Here’s the LOLOHO video…. It includes the Tesla footage, at about 3.5 minutes in a guy is shooting at the side and that’s followed by Joe Rogan trying to pierce the side with an arrow.
    1 point
  24. For Alaska we made reservations at key spot's first. 1) Denali National Park 2) Homer Alaska 3) Seward Municipal Campground 4) All of the BC Parks 5) Commercial Campgrounds in Whitehorse, Fairbanks.' Yukon Territorial Parks are all first come parks. (So plan for noon arrival to get the most choices.) When we booked Seward, we logged on the "first hour" of the first day they were available. By the time we finished booking our 4 nights, the number of sites had dropped to 10% available and that was in about 30 mins. Craig
    1 point
  25. EVs are for commuters, grocery-getters and soccer-Moms living in cities and suburbs, where every 24 hours you know exactly where you are going to plug-in (at home)! And it is in the cities where lower emissions are needed. No interest at all over here. Used my diesel truck recently to drive to Las Vegas for work. There and back, went 580 miles, on one tank of fuel. Try that with a gasser or worse yet an EV. Figure we will get a good 480 miles a tank towing, though so far we have only taken local camping trips. Camping with an EV TV? Which one are you going to plug in? 🤣 Tesla cars look odd enough to my old eyes. This truck looks worse. Couldn't they spend a little more fab time and round out those wheel wells? Really bad lines! Yuch
    1 point
  26. @2500 watts and 12 volts Your amperage would be around 210 amps most I ever plan to use. Keeping the length of cable down is critical. Keeping cables under 10 ft should be o..k.k. for 2/0 according to many of charts I have looked at. Critical to have good fuse. Thats what protects your wiring.
    1 point
  27. The more I look, the more places I find to put it
    1 point
  28. My Victron worked excellent this summer. Im not retired but still spent 35 days this summer in my camper. I love power assist. Ran batteries Dead only 5 times on trips. I only have deployable solar panels. Im expermenting with a pecron and victron dc to dc charger. It has 4700 wh on it. I Trickled charged my Battle borns with 130 watts. Im currently putting in DC fridge. Thanks to everyone in the forum also adding the table on outside that is included on newer models. Thats my winter projects. I am overwhelmed at work and have not logged into forums in while. Multiplus is working well. Powers my a/c for about 5 hours. Have original penguin II. Expermenting with new flat solar panels from Bouge RV going to mount on top of oliver. 2021 Oliver Elite II. Only issue I have seen is when the victron is running hard its fans vibrate or radiate through the olivers fiberglass walls under my bed. Hottest it has been in cavity with Victron is 94 degrees , we had a mild summer in Montana. Did not get overly hot, like last year of 104 for 4 to 6 weeks. Weather has been all over the board up here. With the victron i set it to pull1200 wattes from my house plugs and can run a/c plugged into my normal outlet at house or anywhere. THe a/c will pull around 1450 watts , it just pulls extra wattage from battery bank and recharges them between cycling of the a/c . Take care My rig did not come with solar. Going to try flat panel on top. Little scared about heat impact on fiberglass, have used flat panels in past get extemely hot underneath. (PS white spots are reflections on my lights in my shop) Merry Christmas.
    1 point
  29. Hull #12 - how cool is that! And good luck with your tractor search. We only have smaller size hills so I’m not too sure about the inclines, but I will say that our tractor has been a workhorse. Scott has recently been using it most for brush and dead tree clearing on our property in northern Michigan. He did pay extra for the enclosed cab which he believes has been worth it, it gets cold up there. And we both got a kick out of the possible name of “Leif” 😉
    1 point
  30. Somewhere in your Ollie you should have a relatively small screen that (at least with mine) will scroll through a set of numbers - including the voltage coming into the Ollie from the external electrical source and several other single numbers that are code numbers for any "faults" that the EMS unit detects (like open ground, low voltage, etc). I'm not sure where in your Ollie this screen is placed, but, I'd look in the rear most overhead cubbie first (normally called the attic). Bill
    1 point
  31. Thank you @Ollie-Haus & @Steve Morris. I am not familiar with the Xantrex app yet (so far we’ve only downloaded the Lithionics app. But I will research that today. Sounds like it would solve our issue for sure - thanks again for the advice.
    1 point
  32. Thank you Bill and nice to meet you. Boone is such a beautiful area, one of our sons attended App State. As for Michigan, my husband and I grew up in Lansing and now have a home near East Jordan up north. We just picked up our Ollie on Monday so the batteries are still over 90%, we may just be that we had the wrong adapter or accidentally left something on inside. Thank you for the thoughts though. We have a lot to learn about our new Ollie 😉
    1 point
  33. @Cindy TownsendThis is most likely your solution. I've made this system change back and forth a few times. With the Xantrex app on your phone it only takes a few seconds. You have to be in the camper and connected via bluetooth. The change is made in the settings menu. You can change that setting pretty low as you are only float charging the batteries all winter. Sometimes a shore power GFI doesn't like what it sees when plugged into an Oliver charging system. I've not experienced this personally though.
    1 point
  34. Welcome to the club! We are also from NC (near Boone) and originally hailed from MI (Kazoo), and got our Ollie (Yogi) last March. Depending on the electrical package that you got in "Pearl" the Inverter/charger/batteries could require a hefty current to bring the batteries up to full. This current demand could last a couple of hours or more. You mention that it takes several seconds to trip the breaker, so I'm guessing it is a circuit overload, not a short or fault situation. The fix may be as simple as charging the batteries prior to storage to alleviate this current demand. The previous information is only an educated guess. Bill G
    1 point
  35. Thanks for all the fantastic responses. More than one might normally expect in a Welcome thread! I appreciate the pointers to threads in other sections, as that gets me out of the Newbie corner and into the Business End of the forums. See you all there... Steve
    1 point
  36. Sooo, different folks with different features can have different cold weather experiences. As outlined earlier in this chain, we spent months winter camping in our Elite 2, carefully tracking temps of pex lines in between shells, primarily with our unit winterized. 2021 with that era's furnace. While we stayed toasty warm down to negative teens, there were areas, primarily rearmost pex lines behind garage and lines feeding the exterior shower under the streetside bed, that would drop below freezing in temps around low twenties. After making outlined modes, which were extensive, the lines were good till mid teens. Had we been non winterized, running our Truma water heater, it would have made no difference as that system in the Olivers is a non circulating system so the Truma stays at temp where it is sety but the warm water does not make it to the taps unless they are open. To those that do not camp in freezing winter conditions, this is perfectly acceptable but if you camp where it can often drop below freezing you are likely to run into nightime temps that would expose lines to freezing. Especially true if daytime tempos stay below freezing. In single digit conditions, we would burn through a 30lb propane tank every other day which is both pricey and labor intensive. We loved our Oliver for the superior build quality, great ride, and comfy layout but so much of our camping was in full on winter conditions so we decided to move on. It sold, just yesterday and we have bought ourselves a Winnabego Ekko RV which is truly a 4 season unit. It was quite manageable camping in a winterized Oliver, using containerized water and our composting toilet (great) but our eyes are set on multi week ski safaris so the occasional shower is really a necessity. I've noticed that over the last couple of years Oliver has upgraded to a Truma heater and made some of the mods outlined here so I would assume the stock units can survive unwinterized to the lower temps I laid out above. Anyhow, that's my $02 worth.
    1 point
  37. When I read that you want to camp in spring and fall in Colorado, I recalled the post below . LoriL posted some great pictures of camping high up in the mountains in October of last year.
    1 point
  38. The Elite II trailers now being made, which include the Truma Varioheat furnace system, can be used in temps down close to single digits F without modification. The thread below includes my report using the stock trailer down to an ambient outside temp of 11 degrees F last year. With the furnace set at 70 degrees F, temps in the lower, more exposed parts of the trailer did not get below 38 degrees F, so I did not worry about plumbing freezing. The thread also contains lots of ideas for mods to expand the cold-weather capability of an Oliver trailer. With the right mods, it appears the Oliver can be used (with the plumbing not winterized) in temps down to the single digits F, so long as the furnace is kept running.
    1 point
  39. I like the idea of spot facing the copper bars where needed. I also like the flanged nuts. If you could spot face a large enough area to allow for the flanged nuts on the battery studs that wouldn't be a bad idea. Like your idea and I too would run a test period to find out where you stand now. Knowing your connections are improved, any other issues could be traced to their true source. Electrical troubleshooting can be challenging. Here's an example. We had a relatively new front load washing machine, you know, the kind that have a hundred bells and whistles. The kind the average Joe can't work on. Just out of warranty I got an error code on the screen that indicated a failed main control board. You're talking $300 plus for the part. I was doing a little research and stumbled onto a discussion about failures due to poor connections on the connector plugs on the boards. The solution was to pull all the connections, clean inside the tiny spring sockets, clean all the wire pins on the board side, use a micro screwdriver to bend the inside of the plug socket contacts to increase their "squeeze" on the wire pins when plugged in, and finally smear a thin layer of dielectric grease on the contact surfaces. Sounds like a lot but actually took 20-30 minutes to do to all the plugs. Reassembled and tested. All was well and no more failures for the 5 years following the "repair". The new owners are still using the same washer and dryer. Now when I'm trouble shooting electrical, especially the new stuff with built in diagnostics, I always start by checking all connections and improving as described above to eliminate false error codes.
    1 point
  40. Wow that is so much better than what you started with. I like your solutions far better than the previous owner's method. And the extremely clean and proper connections are very well thought out considering the objective and the budget considerations. I think a lot of folks tried to help, but as you stated it truly falls on the owner to make the hard choices. You obviously had a mental picture of where you needed to end up. Often when trouble shooting folks start making assumptions and end up way off course. I think you went about working the problem in a very logical and practical way. Now the question remains, have all your objectives been met? I'm guessing you are much closer. Well done. 👍
    1 point
  41. Wishing you all a very Happy Easter!🐰
    1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. Happy "late" Easter Sunday from Elephant Butte Lake State Park - New Mexico.... 1st "official" camping trip with our new-to-us Hull #226...
    1 point
  44. May the Blessing of Easter fill your heart with love. Happy Easter!
    1 point
  45. Happy Resurrection Day everybody! Hallelujah, He is risen indeed!
    1 point
  46. One of the things I learned from my woodworking boss was to treat both sides of any panel the same way. If for some reason you wanted to finish the bottoms with polyurethane you should do both sides the same way. Otherwise you might get warping as humidity increases i don’t think it would add much of any strength to the drawer assembly though with I think was John’s goal with the glue (I question how much that adds also but I don’t see a harm in it)
    1 point
  47. Another good video by Jason on drawer removal listed here- https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/videos/
    1 point
  48. For reference, we have a 2015 LE2 and our drawer release is the black "handle" shown in the drawer slide photo below. Those handles had to be moved either up or down for the release to happen so the drawer could be pulled all the way out. AND the black handle on each side moved in opposite direction of other side. So if I pulled the left handle up then I pushed the right handle down.
    1 point
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