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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2024 in all areas

  1. Just by way of an "UPDATE": We pulled into a nice Harvest Host location yesterday afternoon at the "BAR-Z Winery" in Canyon, TX about 20 miles south of Amarillo near Palo Verde SP. We've logged just over 1,400 miles since R&R efforts of the AxleTek and ALCAN spring packs. A prior-to-departure torque inspection revealed no more "U-bolt stretch" as the nuts met target torque specs. For us, at least, our higher level of confidence in the running gear and general peace of mind knowing we've got 2k#-rated 5-spring leaf packs under our 3.5k# axles was worth the $'s, time, and effort in this upgrade, FYI. Cheers from a couple "Happier Campers"!
    8 points
  2. I am not a metallurgist, but it seems to me that less flexibility should=less stress on the welds, not more. And, intuitively, doubling the crossmember material should strengthen the entire assembly, reducing stress on the welds.
    5 points
  3. It was the first LE2 sold to the public and the last one sold before the shutdown. The only 2010 titled Ollie too.
    4 points
  4. Only if there is still an option to still have the fan run continuously. None of you have heard Deb snore! (Well, maybe some of you within four or five sites of us at last year's rally...)
    4 points
  5. Short answer often not. Think of earthquake proof buildings and those that are not. The ones that flex and bend under the stress survive. The solid ones crumble. An efficient solution is to have more cross members properly attached to the main frame members. Load distribution is the idea. Less load, less overload, less failures. The supported tanks would like it much better as well. GJ
    3 points
  6. Like my Grandchildren say, Sweet!
    2 points
  7. I recently sent a suggestion email to service@trumacorp.com concerning the Aventa A/C system. While I'm pleased with system, I do not like the fact that the fan runs continuously if the A/C is turned on. I would like to it run like a household system where you can put the fan in the "auto" setting where it only comes on if the compressor is working, or the "on" position where the fan runs continuously. My hopes are this, if enough other Oliver owners feel the same way and let Truma know, then maybe they can come up with some kind of firmware update for their system. This is definitely not a critical issue, but if others feel the same then truma might have some more motivation. I included what I sent to them and their response. Hi, I recently bought an Oliver RV. I ordered it with the Truma Aquago comfort, Varioheat furnace, and Aventa air conditioning system. So, needless to say I trust the Truma product line. All three components have performed well. I do, as a consumer, have a request or an idea for not only myself but many other friends I have here in your North America district would like to share with you. Unanimously, everyone I have spoke with that has the Aventa air conditioning system would like some type of firmware update that would allow the option to have the blower or fan to cycle off and on as the compressor is needed. Having the fan noise continuously run can be somewhat disruptive during the night while sleeping and also mask the sounds of nature that we enjoy while camping. Again, I love the Aventa A/C system but would like the option for the fan to be like a household system were you can put the fan on AUTO or ON. I encourage any feedback from you on this and look forward to what can be done. Thanks, Mike Their response: Hi Mike. Thank you for your suggests. They are good ones. I have forwarded this on to our product development team. Best Regards, Melissa Ettline Customer Care Associate
    2 points
  8. Hull 45 has 1 x 2 rectangular tubing and not the stitched channel. It has 5 of these from levelers back to the bumper and only one of them has a very slight bow to it.
    2 points
  9. The trailer tows perfectly fine - perhaps even a bit better in high cross wind conditions when we traversed the TX pan-handle. 90-degrees off left to right at 30-35mph. Solid! Nothing noted…. I’m going to ride in the OTT while D drives thru the neighborhood as before we upgraded them to “feel” the before/after….
    2 points
  10. The Houghton group have the same feelings about the same situation as yours. The installation of a relay to shut down the fan with the compressor has resulted in a vast improvement. I have to wonder if the Aussie Engineer at Houghton moonlights for the Aventa folks. If so that would explain the twin disasters. The other issue the Houghton's have is that it does not have a remoted T-stat. We have a solution successfully implemented with the SOB's, but routing is still being worked in our OE2's for the thermistor to bring the Houghton up to world class. GJ PS: Several of us OTT owners will be working the thermistor solution over the summer.
    2 points
  11. @rideandfly wrote this first and I have to side with this argument: "Question, would doubling the crossmember material create more stress on the welds due to less flexibility?" Yes. You must consider vibration. When materials are flexible, they absorb vibration and put less stress on the connection, in this case the weld. The stiffer the material, it will move less and the vibration is passed it on to the connection. I've never seen Aluminum C-channels or even angle iron welded together in the manner. I believe the hulls with this design will always fail at this weld point.
    2 points
  12. I think this would be an interesting mod. We are not bothered by the sound of the fan, but have noticed, under some circumstances, that the humidity of the air exiting the vents of the Truma becomes very humid when the compressor clicks off. It generally occurs when it is not very hot but very humid outside and the compressor cycles on for only a short time. Of course the dehumidify mode quickly lowers the humidity, but also causes the temperature to plunge. I suspect that if the blower turn off when the compressor cycled off this humidity burst would not be an issue.
    2 points
  13. We should be getting up the enough with ALCAN for a volume discount!
    2 points
  14. Shurhold said their Wax and Buff Magic (compound) is for Auto and Marine use. Already had plenty of Meguiar's Flagship wax and One Step compound on the shelf, decided to finish using the Meguiar's products before moving to Shurhold products. Last time I visited Oliver a few years ago, one of the guys on the floor said they use Buff Magic after taking Ollies out of the mold. Only used wax on the Tundra, no compound.
    2 points
  15. sJ, This may be of help. https://www.etrailer.com/question-431835.html David
    1 point
  16. We almost always leave home with a full fresh tank and will continue to do so, unless we are heading straight to a full hookup campsite. It's not that heavy. Full at about 250 LBS across that wide area is not a concern.
    1 point
  17. You are welcome, just passing it forward. Surely there are trade offs. We originally had the “Demoinc” aka Dometic AC Penguin which was just way too loud for us. We like to be able to listen to music, talk in the phone and each other or stream a movie. We are so glad we had the Truma retro fit professionally installed by Oliver. No complaints here with our Truma. 😊
    1 point
  18. At least 3 that we are aware of.
    1 point
  19. I use a 2000 watt generator (with the ground plug) and it powers up the Ollie and the AC. I do have to shut off the breaker to the inverter/charger for it to power up the AC compressor.
    1 point
  20. Hey Max, Ask your bride to keep it under 100 while you’re in the Ollie. 😄
    1 point
  21. That downward sag is about the same as on my Oliver too and as others have pointed out these are C channel not L channel as I previously referred to. Regardless the H2O heater surely can't weigh so much with only 6 gallons of water and maybe another 20 lbs for the actual heater itself. Mystery to me why so much more structure in this one area and yet so many still break. Still nothing from Tech support.
    1 point
  22. So, the welder who told you to never haul your Elite II with a full tank of water was wrong, since the fresh water tank is forward of the broken welds?
    1 point
  23. I had the double C-channel and the one closer to the wheels break (see pic). If you were to take the time to remove the doubled piece, I would weld it in place halfway between the two that broke on mine. It's great that you found the crack prior to the weld failing, as mine had pulled and bent the LP line. Reasons that I had thought of was NOT the fresh tank, which is flat and long, its weight distributed across many support beams and over the wheels. Instead, running at 80 PSI was one reason I had thought of. Also, given the location, perhaps prior owners had used RR leveler jack wheels up in the air. Now I'm thinking it's the double channel at fault and after this weld failed it put more tension on the one in front that also failed on our hull. I found our broken welds upon purchase. The prior owner had never noticed it, even though he claimed to have just lubed the suspension.
    1 point
  24. if you need it right now, you can google "DYI neutral ground plug" or "DYI neutral bond plug" and make one today. All it takes is a screw driver, 120V 15amp plug, and 2" of wire (I used 12ga 20Amp)
    1 point
  25. Another update for those interested. Heard back from tech support on my ticket this morning asking for photos which I forgot to initially send. Uploaded those, received a quick reply that all info would be forwarded to the higher up engineering folks and that the ticket would be closed. Not much really to go on, oh well. In the meantime, after considering another post earlier on, apologies don't recall who posted it, but they are correct the fresh water tanks are quite a bit further forward than this one doubled up L channel supports. Its curious that all of the people who have had these weld breaks are at the same place, same brace and yet have nothing to do (directly) with the support of the heaviest item the water tank. Why did they not use a square tube, instead of stitch welding two L brackets? Why is there so much apparent weight distributed at this one point? I'm baffled. Thanks
    1 point
  26. Now you’re talking! 😄👍🏻
    1 point
  27. Bill, You’re always welcome to come by and take a look under XPLOR. Yes it has cross-members.
    1 point
  28. My local Dexter rep told me the yellow paint swatch is to quickly identify a particular spring in their warehouse. I noticed the painted end is also where the leafs are steel banded together.
    1 point
  29. I would install a switch at the fuse box.
    1 point
  30. Not sure you still need the info, but this is what we did for added fan cooling. Didn't mess with factory installed fan or remove frig.
    1 point
  31. As one of the more senior aged trailers (2015 OE2 Hull #70), a key piece of info of interest is "Has the frame design changed over the years" and if so, "How and When"? GJ
    1 point
  32. Since there really isn't any bracing built into that bottom belly fiberglass, I think bowing is perfectly normal when a brace weld below it breaks. I'm sure it will push right back up into shape with a jack and be fine once repaired.
    1 point
  33. Mine are 3” wide and 9/16” diameter. Mike
    1 point
  34. AS GJ says above - you should not be smelling anything. Read the directions on the grey tank cleaner that you bought and be thinking along the lines of really cleaning that tank. Also, when you have a few minutes to get under the galley sink, re-read my first post in this thread since it appears highly likely that you have this problem. Note that this is probably not an ongoing problem. I've only had to "un-stick" that valve once in going on nine years of Ollie travel. Bill
    1 point
  35. Same problem on hull 770. Several slides came adrift within a few months of purchase. The #6 screws are inadequate and too few. The slide will handle #8's and there are plenty of spots along the track for additional screws in addition to the few Oliver put in. An hour or so of labor and many more fasteners will solve the issue. A small dab of woodworking adhesive will improve retention of the screw. I would not bed them in epoxy but a small drop of Titebond smeared on the threads will improve the bond.
    1 point
  36. Well Oliver gang, as usual, this forum has provided not only a fundamental understanding of the spring issue but options for mitigation and replacement. Hull #1047 will be sauntering soon with anticipated travel of 5000 miles including the daunting road to Chaco Canyon. Planning and executing @Geronimo John
    1 point
  37. John, you and others reading might be interested in this. Your question got me looking at the old maintenance records. Our Hull 113 made its way back to OTT twice, April 2018 and May 2021. In 2018 it received the EZ FLEX upgrade, new Atwood furnace and another page shows "Replaced gas line to furnace and performed yellow jacket gas and function test." The LP line is wrapped in an automotive plastic wire loom. Our Oliver received major upgrades for 2018 (pic below). I imagine the welds broke in the year after OTT serviced the trailer May 2021, because certainly they would have seen it. The breaks looked 1-2 years old and it must have come from the rigid tires at 80 PSI. The 2018 receipt also shows new Monroe shocks, the ones on the trailer are yellow, looking like Bilstein from a glance, but perhaps Monroe also used yellow paint. I will know when I service them and will remove the shocks to bench test, replace if worn. I imagine prices would be 2x today! (Tried 3 times to get this photo right-side up.)
    1 point
  38. It’s nice to know that you are getting #113 back in to shape. Regular cleaning and maintenance goes a long way with an Oliver, some 2016’s still look and feel new. Mike
    1 point
  39. Thanks again, John, SeaDawg and Geromino John and you're welcome Boudicca908. It's the reason I posted this. We did a 3-day trip, just to check things out, but I'll be working a whole lot of maintenance next few months. We travel mainly Jan-Apr and it will be in excellent shape by then! In fact, we just had a monsoon, temps dropped 20 degrees and I pulled my TV in the garage for new headlights and a suspension/brakes check. Next job will be on the Oliver, pull the wheels, pressure-wash all the old grease away and whatever I can hit on the underbelly. Then remove all the Dexter parts I can for cleaning, pack bearings with new hi-temp grease, open the brakes, full M&R on everything! And I will certainly review the appropriate JD posts, yes. The other thing I did today was to yank all the interior blinds off, OMG how dirty behind, and OTT installed new ones just 2 years ago. I brought them indoors and Chris will detail them and clean the inside of the Oliver windows, with the AC running of course, as I'm working other maintenance. Yes John, I do have the Dexter EZ Flex, so I guess by your account it must have been upgraded. We are fortunate that two prior owners, brought this Hull in to OTT a total of 3 times. One spent $4K just 2 years ago, including the new blinds. I already have them down to 60, and I'm thinking 48 PSI. I like that number. I agree that the load tables state 45 PSI is enough. I wonder, how many miles are on this trailer? All at 80 PSI, ugh.
    1 point
  40. Yep, they were 80 and I believe all former owners ran this trailer at 80 PSI. Do you think that alone could cause alum welds to fail? This does make good sense! And let's say the habit was to leave home or campsite, black and gray empty, fresh and HWH full, making the right-rear heavier and that's where the welds failed!
    1 point
  41. I looked over every weld that I could see before purchasing my Ollie, but just went out again to recheck them all after seeing this post. Glad it was an easy fix.
    1 point
  42. Waxed the Tundra with the new polisher yesterday, beautiful finish! 👍 Next Ollie jobs, compounding & waxing Ollie and repacking wheel bearings. Next camping trip planned in July!🙂
    1 point
  43. UPDATE! what I learned, while plugging into the campground, the AC source was extremely unstable. We were at the end of the line and when others pulled current, our ACdropped up and down from 120 significantly and the Xantrex cycled on and off between shore power and propane (for the fridge) to compensate for the unstable power. problem solved. Thanks all for the input.
    1 point
  44. As I mentioned the other day.. NCeagle figured this out… this was part of the thread from this past June…. It would be worth reviewing for anyone annoyed by their inverter fan noise or who, like me, wants to have a simple way of not charging their lithium batteries every time they are plugged into shore power….There is more info in that thread.. it works in Hull #685… maybe it’ll work in yours too..
    1 point
  45. Thanks for the update, Ray and Susan. We elected to go with AGMs and the 2k inverter. OTT had one trailer setup in their showroom as well as one with the big lithiums and the 3k inverter. Every time I visited the showroom, 4 times now, I couldn't get comfortable with the fan noise coming from the 3k. The AGM setup with the 2k inverter was quiet so we elected to go with AGM. To be fair the lithiums were in bulk mode and the 2k was in float so the 2k may very well make as much noise in bulk mode. I'm hoping for quiet as the 2k charges with less amps, 100 vs 150 I believe. We finalize the order next week and pick up in January so I'll post back with my experiences. John
    1 point
  46. Susan We have an LE2 hull 836 with the Lithium Pro Package (lithionic batteries). On our panel, the Xantrex can be turned off quite easily by the button on the remote panel. Please note, there is a switch underneath the street side bed that needs to be turned to the off position for the remote to be able to turn the system off. We usually dry camp but have turned the Xantrex off while on shore power during the night. The fan noise bugs me too but not my husband. pam
    1 point
  47. You must be running the fridge on Auto . . . . . ?? Running the fridge on propane would eleviate that problem. Fridge on LP does not use that much propane.
    1 point
  48. Removal and replacement went well. The biggest problem was the removal and mounting, as the screws were difficult to reach. We dropped two while reinstalling, but were able to retrieve them. The new inverter is working as it should - charging when on shore power, transferring from grid to battery mode, and powering up on 12v. There is with no problem with communication between the inverter and the remote panel. I tested the outlets and all are supplying inverted and AC power. I did have to program the inverter for lithium batteries, as it came with default settings, which are for flooded batteries. Oliver gave us the settings, which are easy to change. I haven't had the opportunity to compare the new inverter to the old, in regards to fan noise, though I suspect it will be the same. According to the Xantrex manual and Jason at Oliver, the fan cycling is normal; the fact that the inverter is basically installed inside a drum most likely amplifies the noise level. The only work-around I have found to this annoyance while sleeping is to disconnect shore power at night as it seems the fan cycling on and off coincides with the charging function. Also, possibly when there is a high electrical load, though we haven't tested that theory yet. With the lithium/solar pkg, we can go the night without shore power and only lose a tenth or two of battery charge, assuming the AC or other high draw appliances (such as an electric space heater) are not being used.
    1 point
  49. Just turn on the Dometic Penguin a/c. You won’t hear anything, including an oncoming tornado. Sorry, couldn’t resist 😉
    1 point
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