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Hi Catherine, Not related to your sound, but you can save propane by turning the Truma water heater off until you need it. We only have ours on first thing in the morning for bathroom use, and in the evening if we need a shower. And then whenever we wash dishes, which might only be once a day.

@Hoosier, even though yoir camper is likely out of warranty, I'd open a ticket on this. It's always best for Oliver service to know "what happened ", and perceived cause.

You have the Truma AquaGo hot water system and in the normal COMFORT operating mode it has an internal circulating pump and will turn on fairly frequently, along with the burner, to maintain some ready hot water, and when it does turn on, it makes a noticeable sound, especially if you are on the bed right above it. Used to drive me crazy at night. The solution is to put the Truma on ECO mode. The initial water temp will be lower in ECO mode (see below) but it wont turn on the recirculating pump and burner as often. It also will save propane. Just have to wait a little longer for hot water when you need it. And we don’t have our Oliver trailer anymore, but we do miss it, and I still check in here now and then to see what’s new.

Done and tested at pressure! We now have separate bathroom sink faucet and shower mixers, and a recirculation system to send hot water that's not hot yet back to the fresh tank. Once the actual hot water is at the diverter, twist the handle and we'll have a hot shower with zero wasted water! Right now, the whole system is at pressure overnight to check for any seepage, and then I'll button things up, drain everything, and winterize. A huge thanks to those who have done this modification before, and especially Mike @mossemi for answering questions, showing me how his system worked, where I took several photos, and for diagrams and a shopping list of very high quality fixtures. All told, including buying specialty tools, quality carbide hole saws, more PEX than I'll ever use, etc., this project totals right at $1000. Could it be done for a lot less? Absolutely! But the result is an absolutely elegant system that will last as long as the trailer. Mike, stop by in May April at the rally for a generous pour of whatever's in the cabinet. Thank you!

While camping in SW Florida right before Helene arrived my wife smelled a faint burning smell and 30 seconds later the carbon monoxide alarm started to alarm and we looked and looked but could not source the smoke. The alarm went off with furious fanning and opening all the windows in 92* weather. Just in case we moved the sentimental items out of the Oliver and after 90 minutes sitting in our idling TV we went back in. Nothing seemed wrong and wife was pointing at me because I recently swapped the Demonic for a Houghton. Anyways 3 days go by, nothing happens, then AC power is fluctuating then goes completely out. Smoke smell is really evident now and when I went to remove the power from the trailer I almost burned my hand it was so hot. Turns out the white cable was loose and creating a short that eventually melted the whole assembly. The shore power cord was equally compromised. I was able to find a replacement inlet at West Marine for about $125 and a new shore cord from Campers World 60 miles down the road (it was Sunday). So I will be adding opening and inspecting for proper torque on the wires leading to the cabin on our annual inspection list. Thanks Shane

A quick internet search revealed that 14-16 inch pounds is the correct terminal screw torque spec. But to be sure, I'd contact Furrion or whoever made your new plug to verify. I'll be checking mine now! Glad you didn't sustain too much damage. Dave

12,000# working capacity, 46,000# breaking capacity per Amazon’s description. Good enough for me!

Exactly! I intercepted the hot water line under the sink, and sent it to the diverter instead of the faucet. One outlet on the diverter then went to a "T", in turn going to the faucet and shower mixer. The other outlet went back to the fresh water fill, into a "T" placed just after the check valve. I briefly thought of adding some sort of temp sensor inline with the recirculation line, but instead, I'll just run it for 10-15 seconds until I get a feel for how long it typically takes to get hot water to the tap. Attached is Mike's flow chart for the system. He and I use a Scandvik SCA10623 single lever mixing valve without on/off feature for the diverter. Here's the link where I bought all my fixtures. I have mine oriented so that pointing up goes to the faucet and shower, and down goes back to the fresh water tank. https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/SCA10623.html dog house bath remodel.pdf

Found a brand that uses a cotter pin to secure the connecting rod, any thoughts?

@Catherine The only time we left our Truma on all night was on our 48 day recent western trip. The temps while camped for a week inside Yellowstone NP dropped below freezing at for 3 nights. As a result it will run periodically and yes you will hear a slight 10 second Truma hum. It sure is nice having on demand hot water within about 8-10 seconds. Typically we just turn it off after use to conserve a little propano! On a side note, you will really like how easy it is to clean/decalcify and winterize your Truma. Welcome to the forum! Patriot 🇺🇸

Had the same experience, but soon realized the Truma AquaGo to be the culprit, as @Frank C explained. I have since been turning off the AquaGo, as @Steve Morris suggests and reasons given. However, because I only turn the unit on when needed and not concerned with maintaining constant hot water, I find ECO mode better suited to my needs. That said, my shower handle has a trickle feature, which keeps the burner engaged when taking a Navy shower.

Good news. Did the same testing on the ole Dometic Hammer Mill A/C and a Honda 2200. With soft start it did well. That said, when you Inverter dies, you should consider getting a 3,000 watt one. I did and glad I did. No longer worry too much if my love wants to heat up her tea when I have the A/C on generator....... GJ

Ahhh the years we lived in Texas…so much fun.

Either way you'll need both receptacles; absent an additional Y-adapter of some kind... one receptacle to power the camper load and the other for the neutral/ground shorting plug to keep the Progressive Industries surge protector/power quality checker happy 🙂

You do not need this relatively expensive kit, with regulator, if attaching the generator directly to the Oliver onboard LP quick disconnect which supplies regulated LP pressure. Yes with an external tank, but connected to the Oliver only a hose with correct fittings is needed. I just spoke to Derek at Hutch Mountain and he asked me to post this to clear up a misunderstanding. When installing their propane conversion kit, it is required that the large Demand Regulator is still used when connecting to the onboard LP quick disconnect.

Our Beast of Burden gets a new tail hook ha! After doing a bit of a deep dive I decided to order up a new weigh safe aluminum 10” drop hitch with a 3” shank. I have been using 2 reducers and have never been a fan of them as they are a bit sloppy and noisy or simply too many moving parts. I have to say out of the box I am really impressed with how solid this hitch is engineered. Really well done. I opted to not go with the tongue hitch weight dial. According to quite a few user reviews, these dials use a rubber seal/oring and at times can fail and then require maintenance by replacing the seal. When the O ring fails you will notice fluid leaking from the hitch 👎🏻. Just not something I ever want to think about….ever especially on a long trip. I did opt in for the stainless steel 2” and 2 5/16 balls vs chrome plated hitch balls and locking hitch pic all keyed alike . B&W tow and stow is also a good hitch which I was also considering. My preference has always been aluminum as rust and corrosion will eventually take its toll on steel powder coats so I passed. There is very little play with the new Weigh Safe 180 3” shank. That said, I did order this 3” anti rattle hitch clamp to keep everything buttoned up with zero play. Edit- I ordered my hitch clamp directly their website. Quick shipping and excellent communication. https://www.hitchclamp.com/collections/3-clamps My reducers will no longer be used when towing XPLOR.

In a case of odd timing, I received mine yesterday, too. Just a day after I finish my bathroom fixture replacement... I now have one of each style. If anyone has or will be getting a High Sierra shower head to replace the original Oliver pull-out faucet head (just the head, not the hose or entire faucet) let me know, and you can have either of mine free. The adapter with a male hose connection is for Oliver Travel Trailers pre-2021 and the adapter with a female hose connection is for the later model. I can bring them in April to the rally, I'll be at the Eggs-n-S'mores rally in Florida in January, or you can pay to have one shipped to you. https://www.highsierrashowerheads.com/shop/adapter-for-oliver-travel-trailers-chrome/

When Patriot told me about how he was connecting Ollie's chains, I did not use them at the time because Ollie's chains were easy to connect/disconnect on the Tundra hitch. When I purchased the F-150, first thing I noticed the chain hooks were not as easy to connect/disconnect as they were on the Tundra, then I remembered what Patriot had said before. I thought Patriot was using lifting shackles (my mistake), so started using screw-pin lifting shackles (using blue Loctite on the threads) that also exceed federal guidance that makes it easy to connect/disconnect Ollie's chains. Thanks David! Hammer Locks: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hammer-locks/ Screw-Pin Lifting Shackles: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/lifting-shackles/ Federal Guidance: "If the ultimate combined breaking strength of the two chains is equal to the gross weight of the towed vehicle(s), the requirements of § 393.70(d) are satisfied. It should be noted that some States may have more stringent requirements for safety chains". https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/safety/when-two-safety-chains-are-used-must-ultimate-combined-breaking-strength-each-chain-be-equal

I received my faucet adapter for newer Oliver trailers from High Sierra today. It fits great. It is made very well to boot! If you have purchased one of these and need the adapter just go out to their web page (under Help) and submit a comment stating the year Oliver trailer you have and that you had already purchased their faucet but need the adapter for newer trailers (My 2021 E2 has a smaller, male fitting on the end of the hose).

I had the same thing happen a few years ago and posted about it then. One wire on the trailer side of the connection was loose. Melted both sides of the connection. Replaced both the outlet and the power cord. You can access the outlet from under the dinette. Not something I ever thought to check.

Mark Knopfler and Emmylou Harris All The Road Running (album)

Hi Patriot and all the other helpful people, We get some pretty cold nights (and days) in the East! We like to spend time near the beaches in November. And up in the Mountains. So the ECO will be on at night. I don’t like to run the FRESH water waiting for it to heat for dishes and stuff so I switch it to COMFORT. It’s good to know in the milder weather we can turn it off. We are one year in to the Oliver and the Camping adventure and sad to see the season end. We have not gone off grid yet but are practicing up at the State reservations that only supply electricity. Thanks for the help, advice and good ideas. Catherine

We used our old EU2000i with a SoftStart equipped Dometic for a couple of years. Our OEII has the 3000 watt Xantrex. We only used the generator for summer boondocking in the Texas Hill Country, never at high altitude. The combination worked well most of the time. We couldn't use the microwave concurrently with the AC, and if the batteries weren't at 100%, the Xantrex had to be dialed back to the lowest charge rate. When outside the trailer, the generator was much louder than advertised due to the higher rpm and frequent surging as the AC compressor cycled. It was annoying. At least when inside the trailer the generator surging couldn't be heard over the noisy Dometic. We recently switched to the Truma AC and a 3200 watt generator. They're both much quieter, inside and outside the trailer.

I have two dual fuel generators and generally only run them on propane. The exception would be during hurricane evacuations when our Oliver becomes an escape pod; it is more cost effective to run the Westinghouse 4500W on gasoline for continuous 24-hour durations for several days. Run time is 16 hours on a tank of gas with a/c on. I always carry two WAVIAN (NATO-style) jerrycans, one with ethanol gasoline for the TV and other with non-ethanol for the generator(s), as needed. I have made use of these fuel reserves on several occasions when the TV’s low fuel indicator light comes on; yep, that happens, drives my wife nuts! My SOP is to routinely rotate said fuels rather than stabilize with an additive. Regarding the jerrycans, I have never smelled any fumes, even when enclosed under cap in my former TV and currently inside our Savana van. To your point however, gasoline or any residue in a generator fuel system will reek, so another practice is to run the carb dry, drain the tank and throughly air it out, as necessary. Fuel transfer, especially into a vehicle, can be cumbersome and messy, but I resolved both issues with a portable rechargeable pump. Simply set the gas can on the ground, deploy the pump/hose, flip the switch, easy-peasy! Better yet, once done I let it air out before stowing away in a small Pelican Case to conceal any residual odor. I have my generators set up to either run directly from a dedicated propane tank or utilizing the Oliver’s QC ports. By dedicated, I mean either a spare propane tank carried in the TV or one of the trailer-mounted tanks, in which case the regulator hose would be disconnected. In this instance, remote regulators (primary and secondary) would be utilized. However, if connected to one of the Oliver LP ports, only the secondary regulator comes into play. I modified one of the generator supplied regulators with QC fittings between the two sections, thus enabling multiple usages. Use of secondary regulator only when running from the Oliver QC port. Use of both primary and secondary regulators when running from a dedicated propane tank. I installed GasStop automatic shut-off safety devices on all tanks, great for gauging, as well as priming! Note the propane hose draped over the tank housing at bottom pic. Aforementioned propane hose is tapped into the forward QC port for better access. I didn’t like having to get down on my knees to hookup. This is a 10’ hose extension. Extension hose stowed on top of tank and can be deployed via the screw port for added convenience. This hose also serves use of my fire pit.

Bill: You hit the nail square on the head. I found it a PITA to install, and will find a cutting torch or cut-off grinder to remove them if I ever need to. Problem is getting the shackle on something under the truck, in a way to allow for pounding a moving target to install the pin, especially if doing this solo. Would be a PITA for sure. Like you, mine stay on our TV 24/7.

Warning: This post boarders on becoming a rabbit hole discussion! OIL PRESSURE: Most modern engines are designed with the crank shaft providing the power to pump oil. This can be by direct connection, a belt or by gears. So generally speaking if the motor is turning it's getting oil from the sump. However, some 1.0, 2.7 and 5.0 Fords are among exceptions, so check out yours to be sure. My 3.5 EB oil pump is crank driven. So my concern is not with long down-hill runs and the engine not getting lube oil. It is with the auto start stop system, especially when towing. Powering up mountains with Ollie puts a LOT of heat into the engine block and especially the turbo's. If you shut off cooling water and oil, you will "bake your turbo's" and other parts as well. It is nearly always wise when towing, or off roading, or any other high power activities to let your vehicle engine run for a period of time before shutting it off. This is necessary to allow that latent heat to be transferred to the atmosphere. Some say that the period of time is when the aux fans turn off. This may be the right answer for their vehicles. I try to let mine run at least 7 - 10 minute after a long hot run. And don't ask what I think about the auto on/off systems......... ENGINE SMOKE WHEN DE-ACCELERATING: Carbureted Engines Not knowing which Audi engine is in play limit's my thoughts to "glitter generalities": Carbureted engines when cycled between high power and coast settings OFTEN cause the crankcase pressure to spike downward. If you have an ole fashioned crankcase manifold gauge you would see it go to a very high vacuum setting. True statement that confuses many. Said in simpler English the air pressure in the engine at full throttle for a non-turbo/super charged engines is just a bit lower that STP conditions. But when those big 4-bbl carburetors slam closed (Coasting), the air moving through the intake system gets sucked into the intakes. and it can't get much from the intake system to replace it as the carbs are closed down. So your vacuum gauge reading goes down in PSI towards zero. (For the Pro's: I'm not even going to try to discuss absolute vacuum concepts here.) So if the intake head is approaching a near perfect vacuum (Like not much air there because it is all sucked out with no intake air, THEN the crankcase below the pistons gets oil vapor sucked up past the pistons and into the combustion chamber... where it gets pushed out the tail pipe. This problem was generally ameliorated by a simple throttle return spring/cam. If the carb can't slam shut quickly, the intake can't go way low pressure mode and little oil vapor gets sucked past the rings and out. ENGINE SMOKE WHEN DE-ACCELERATING: NPN-Carbureted Engines For the Ford Ecoboost, and many other engines with turbo's, they pressurize the air intake system. The air pressure is modulated by a wastegate and throttle body. Unlike most carbureted engines, they have a PCM that manages the process and a key element of that process is the fuel injection system. For the Eco Boost with 10 speed transmissions, downhill pretty much is a walk in the park. Virtually all of us use our tranny to spin up the Ecoboost vs. glazing our brakes going down hill. I just ensure that the I keep the RPM's down to about 4500 or below. Ford says 5,000. For more info on this here is a good thread: https://www.thehulltruth.com/trucks-trailers/964289-eco-boost-10-speed-iengine-brakingn-tow-mode.html GJ

Nice work @Steve Morris! Anybody ever change the countertop and sink bowl? I would like the counter to be 3-4” deeper and have a sink bowl, also just deeper front to back, that a man could splash water in his face without it dripping down the front of the vanity! A deeper sink must just barely fit into the OEM base to be feasible. The toilet and shower space is well designed, not so the sink. Thank you!

Yikes! Glad you were able to track this down before it got too far out of control. I've seen evidence of overheated receptacles in campground pedestals fairly often. I *assume* most of that is from loose/worn blade contacts, but it could also be a loose terminal screw connection. Either way, loose = higher resistance = heat. I'll be watching the camper-side connection more carefully now as well...

Ohhhh I think you got it Frank. It is from that side over the pump. That makes sense that it’s circulating water. I am switching it from Eco to Comfort mode depending on usage. I bet I left it on Comfort. It’s pretty jarring when you don’t know what it is. Thanks a bunch. The forum has been pretty helpful with stuff. Catherine

It’s more commonly referred to as a check valve. It is a one way valve that only allows water to flow in one direction. There is one in the city water connection pipe and another fresh water tank fill pipe. The recirculation activity should be going back to the fresh water tank. Mossey

I have no idea - but - have you contacted Oliver Service about this? Bill

It's good there is an option to turn off. I've rented cars that do that and cannot stand that at lights and other intersections. I would tap the gas to get the engine ready.

This was a JD discussion several years ago. Below are what was recommended for our OE2's. It is not likely, but should these bit the dust I would get the 12,000 pounders vs. the 7100's. It sure solved the getting under the TV on our F-150.

You bet JD, these are called 1/2” hammer locks and are rated for 12000 lbs ea. To your point they make it much easier to attach safety chains. My Weigh Safe hitch is rated for 21,000 lbs. link -https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/?srsltid=AfmBOoolgTCwKhll9w1HP7E1phPvIgecdRRK__EUlWP7DPInx6CUJx0T

The following video popped up on my YouTube recommendation list a couple of weeks ago, showing a new Bluetooth enabled replacement panel for the SeeLevel II tank monitors. I thought that this would be a handy upgrade, so I called to place an order, and it arrived yesterday. Installation was simple. I removed the original 907-P3 panel (Model 907, with Pump switch and 3 tanks) by taking out the four screws holding it to the wall. Then I pulled off the three connectors for the water pump, and removed the Molex connector on the circuit board. The new panel is a 907-BTP7 (Model 907 with BlueTooth, Pump switch, and up to 7 tanks) and came with a new wiring pigtail. In the video, James shows using WAGO connections. But Oliver leaves very little slack in the wiring for the tank monitor, so there's not much room to cut the existing wires and connect the new ones. And, there's no need to do so. Since we do not have an LP monitor, nor an alarm, we only need the four existing wires; just in different pin locations. The above photo shows the original Molex connector, with, starting from the right: White, Blank, Red, Black, Blue, Blank. As shown in the attached wiring diagram for the new 907-BTP7 panel, all that's needed is to move the last three to the right one pin position, as follows: White, Red, Black, Blue, Blank, Blank. Push on the Molex connector, reconnect the three water pump wires, and replace the panel on the wall. Done, in under 30 minutes! Safety protocol would of course be to switch off the solar disconnect and turn off the batteries before starting, as the Molex pins are not insulated, and bumping them together could cause a spark or blown fuse. Download the SeeLevel app for IOS or Android, and follow the instructions to get it set up. Of course, we do not have an LP monitor, nor more than three tanks, so the ALT and LP buttons will not be used. Garnet used to offer a 907-BTP3 panel, but that was several years ago, and is no longer available. Now, the obvious question, is why would someone want this panel with Bluetooth? Oliver's fresh water tank, like most, has an overflow, so observing tank level isn't really needed for filling. And there are inline flow gauges for much lower cost. But if you're in line at a low flow water fill, with impatient people behind you, it might be nice to know your progress. or maybe you're in the shade, hanging out in your hammock, and suddenly wonder if the shitter's full. Now you can check! 🤣 I'll use it to watch how full the black tank is when I'm flushing it, and monitoring the gray tank when I'm back-flushing it from the drain outlet. It'll be easier than running back and forth between the monitor in the trailer and the faucet on the side of the house. And, simply because I enjoy fiddling with tech stuff like this. I see that the price has gone up considerably since I ordered on November 7th. It was $109.99, and is now $146.37. That's a 33% increase in four days! Here's the link if anyone is interested: https://shopusa.garnetinstruments.com/solutions/holding-tanks/c-709-btp7-709-btp7-display

This is all true JD. But I am also thinking emergency use of the generator at home where options of multiple fuel use would be an advantage. While having fun in my Oliver, I would only ever run the generator on propane for all the reasons you mentioned, and a few more! I also try to never run ethanol gas in any of my gas powered tools. Only high octane non-ethanol gas is used. Where I live, it is pretty easy to find. There is also a website that will list local "pure gas" locations in your area. https://www.pure-gas.org/ Dave

Sorry to quote myself but I did re-watch this movie. Very funny... stands the test of time and shows what genius's Lucy and Desi were. Forgot about the whole "rocks" thing and Donna and I were laughing hard at that part. It was funny hearing the "tech" guy explain the brakes using magnets and shook my head realizing that we have the exact same brakes that they did in 1953. Before I was born for crying out loud! The movie is available free on TUBI. You'll have to watch some ads but not too bad. If you have not seen this movie... or not seen in it a while I strongly recommend "The Long Long Trailer" with Desi and Lucy. Scotty

We've got the Renogy 200W suitcase w/built in SC - works so well for our style of boondocking that the Honda EU2000i is no longer part of our standard pack-out kit. We've also invested in another portable solar module with a sun tracking feature that we saw at the OTT Owner's Rally last MAY --- we're planning to perform an OPS Check on the "tracker" during our Q-site trip in JAN and will report thereafter....FYI

I'd prefer a new Airstream without screws, staples and rivets. Wait! I have one. It's called an Ollie!

I saw this yesterday. Very informative. We use our phone. Just something to thing about for the future.....

There was a time when Cindy n I would go see Kenny Wayne at small venues in Shreveport LA. He was usually at local events. One of my favorite live recordings of his was at one such small event, my that was in a universe long, long, ago.