ScottRicki
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Posts posted by ScottRicki
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We use West Marine Dri-Dek cut to fit floor. It is low and easy to lift to spray out underneath when needed. Has saved my bald head.
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Each time I grease our EZ Flex, at least one zerk makes me use the stabilizer jack to take pressure off that side
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My Pre-Flight checklist is a habit BUT I always run down the paper Pre-Flight as a habit also.
Because I always remember the story my RV park neighbor told me when he saw me using the Pre-Flight. He wished he had used one the day he pulled his multi-million dollar motor home out of his driveway and left his power cord and power cord reel in the driveway and modified the side of the RV.
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I cleaned our window tracks today. Only the back window had a flexible rubber guide like in the video. The side windows were a harder rubber that I chose not to pull up.
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This thread has some info
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A link to upgrading hitch receiver to 2 inch
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I have greased ours quite a few times now and it seems there is always at least one that will not take grease initially. I just use the Oliver jack to take a little pressure off the offending side but never have had to take the wheels off the ground.
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We upgraded to the Garmin 890 before our Dec trip to FL from OK. We really liked it and enjoyed the additional features and bigger screen size. It also has a great magnetic holder/charger that makes it easy for the navigator to remove and search for and input new destinations while traveling.
BUT - we were upgrading from a Garmin Nuvi 1450 that we had been using since 2009 so just about any "modern" GPS would impress us.😂
We do use our Iphone Google maps sometimes but find GPS usage faster and more accurate at times. Except in 2010 we let the old Garmin take us, on two different occasions, to a small airport in the Orlando area - instead of to Disney World. At least we had plenty of turn around space.
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I had an issue the first time I winterized because one of the clamps on the pex line from boon docking port, at the ball valve, was not tight.
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Thought I would share my solution to the bike rack receiver saga. We use the 1-Up for two bikes. I used a Curt bumper receiver with a sheet of rubber to isolate the iron from aluminum, with neoprene washers under stainless nuts on bottom. The hole patterns seemed far enough away from Oliver holes to not weaken the beam too much. I considered adding a 13 inch long aluminum plate on bottom as a giant strengthening washer but decided that might be over engineering (as I have accused of by my wife frequently). The wide receiver plate also adds strengthening across the Oliver holes. Initially I was going to cut off the upright tabs but the paint job on the receiver is too good to destroy.
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I am going to guess the Dexter wet bolt has one hole. I have had several occasions that a zerk would not take grease. The issue was easily resolved by raising the offending side of trailer a little with stabilizer jack.
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The author "are" probably referring to a pond of water aka, in some rural areas, as a tank
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I replaced my gear. Be sure to look at the link in John’s first post that takes you to the RV upgrade store - before you disassemble. I over disassembled looking for the problem without properly researching and made the job twice as hard. It actually is pretty easy besides having to get on the roof.
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We have the same setup and it has worked well for us. But haven't tried it out at high elevation. But a/c probably not needed in the mountains.
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We had the identical issue with our AC pulling too many amps. Of course that was the last thing we checked - after rechecking the Easy Start install, checking both old Honda 2000,s with bad stators (that contributed to diagnosing the problem). Finally paid attention to the amp draw with both Honda’s in parallel. Took TT to local RV shop who communicated with Oliver and replaced the AC unit. After testing with two borrowed Honda 2000s, one at a time, at the Rally the issue was gone. I then purchased a Honda 2200 and added a propane kit to it. AC runs without a problem.
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We also just had the DC Step-up Converter stop working which supplies power to the WiFi Ranger. Now there is a WiFi Ranger Company Technical Service Bulletin regarding the issue. The Tech Bulletin will allow you to enter your WiFi Ranger ID, found on the unit, to determine if your Step-Up Converter needs to be replaced. It also indicates that it is possible to damage the WiFi ranger if the Converter overheats. I haven't installed my new converter yet to test if mine was "toasted". As you can see in the pic the V2 is much more robust. I plan on using heavy duty velco or 3M adhesive to secure it.
https://wifiranger.com/tech-bulletins
[attachment file=Wifi Ranger pic 2.jpg]
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I also installed the Hutch Mt kit. Mounted the large regulator on their Extended Distance Bracket and I clamp that to the front storage basket using a large wood clamp. Propane hose plugs into the optional front propane outlet with Honda 2200 in basket. Will run a/c with Micro Air Easy Start at 650 Ft elevation, at less than max rpm. The regulator bracket can also set under the generator if you want to set the generator on the ground or use the generator with a portable bottle away from OTT, or hook up to natural gas at home as a backup generator. If purchasing be sure to get their RV-1/4-to-3/8-Quick-Connect-Adapter. Their hoses use 3/8 inch quick connects and the OTT propane port is 1/4 inch.
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Thought I would add today’s project while on the road. A suction cup, tent pole clothes line / towel rack. Easy to hang up for use - and put away when not needed. Tent pole from Acadamy Sports.
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It is possible you are having the same issue I had with our new Oliver. The detail is in the “Micro-Air” thread. But to summarize: At pickup and shakedown at the local campground my old Honda 2000 would not work with EasyStart installed by factory. It would startup fine and run several minutes and then the generator would shutdown. Returned to the factory the next morning. During the next three hours they checked the EasyStart install (it was correct) and reset the EasyStart. Still didn’t work. Scott Oliver brought his old Honda 2000 to factory but his generator also shutdown. Thought it may have been the old generators. Went home and tested with my other younger, but still old Honda 2000. Still would not work. It worked fine with both Generators paralleled. I continued to test and research and camp in Summer heat with shore power. After watching amp draw and an evaluation by RV repair shop we determined the A/C was pulling too many amps and A/C was replaced under warranty. STILL did not work with generator. But by this time, fortunately, Matteo G. At Micro-Air had identified another potential problem - a bad stator in the generator. At the Oliver Rally in May we were able to confirm both my generators have bad stators causing shutdown after running several minutes. We tested with a new generator as well as Scott Oliver’s generator that was used at the factory during the original testing and everything worked fine. I opted to buy one new Honda 2200i, added the Hutch Mountain propane kit. Hopefully our “Murphy’s Law” abiding is over
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Thought I would add my completed curtain rod project. I used Overland's style so the rod would be a little higher to decrease the chance of another mark on my bald head. I drilled a 1/16 inch pilot hole, used a countersink to smooth hole to a little bigger that 5/32 inch. Then drilled a 5/32 inch hole in center of countersink. 5/32 inch is the suggested pilot hole for a # 10 machine screw. Sealed everything with 3M 4200. The machine screws worked perfect with no cracking of gel coat and everything pulled up tight.
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The Oliver is our third travel trailer. All of our camping has been in parks. I installed an Atwood tankless in our second trailer and it was just OK. The Truma is spectacular. Previously and without the Atwood I always showered in park’s facilities since I enjoy a real shower. Plus someone else had usually already used up the hot water in the trailer. All that said the cheapest method is the standard tank, use parks electric to heat water, and use parks showers as much as possible. But we really love being able to use our own shower with endless hot water.
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Have not really had it long enough to evaluate. Three months and all is good.
Mopeka's FAQ answer:
The sensor battery lasts over 1 year but may last longer or shorter depending on the outside temperature. The battery will generally last longer in warmer environments
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I am using the Mopeka product. Works well. I the monitor and sometimes the phone app. It may not be clear in your research but the monitor can also be set to read the 30# tanks now. Their original monitor only read 20# tanks accurately.
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Where
https://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=297731
And what
SUG-MC-JMP45
Sugatsune Sealed Counterplate - EACH (White)
SUG-MC-JM45WT
Sugatsune Sealed Magnetic Catch - EACH (White)
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Approached in the parking lot while towing my Oliver trailer
in General Discussion
Posted
About five years ago while driving down A1A on east coast FL barrier island we saw a couple of Olivers in the driveway of a small beachside house. Stopped to say hi. Jim Oliver answered the door. Great visit and spectacular memory we now have of that encounter.