Bobfirst
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Posts posted by Bobfirst
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1 hour ago, topgun2 said:
A drill to remove those existing rivets and a reasonably stout rivet gun to replace it.
Bill
p.s. When I had a problem with mine I happened to be near the Mothership and asked them to take a look at it. Apparently the Service guys had a little difficulty with it (their rivet gun was not feeling well I suspect) but in the end the repaired catch has not moved.
Thanks
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Finally got the cover off . Now know the model & serial # that is needed to move forward with the heat strip blowing the furnace fuse
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On 1/20/2021 at 6:40 PM, mossemi said:
I know the bolt in the red circle holds down the roof unit. I think, because I don’t remember, the screw in the green circle holds the control portion of the inside cover in place. To remove 90% of the inside cover, open the curb and street side vents completely and 2 screws will be visible in each opening. Now that you know where to look, open the front and rear vents completely and look on the hinge side of the opening and you should see 2 screws in each opening, but they are much harder to see. Use a long #2 Phillips screwdriver with a round barrel because you will be rubbing on plastic and a square barrel will hinder your efforts.
Mossey
Moses I removed 2 Philip screws from the front , rear & side vents but I still can’t pull down the inside white cover . What am I doing wrong ?
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16 hours ago, mossemi said:
I know the bolt in the red circle holds down the roof unit. I think, because I don’t remember, the screw in the green circle holds the control portion of the inside cover in place. To remove 90% of the inside cover off, open the curb and street side vents completely and 2 screws will be visible in each opening. Now that you know where to look, open the front and rear vents completely and look on the hinge side of the opening and you should see 2 screws in each opening, but they are much harder to see. Use a long #2 Phillips screwdriver with a round barrel because you will be rubbing on plastic and a square barrel will hinder your efforts.
Mossey
Mossey you stopped me from making a huge mistake! Will tackle the front /rear vents screws . Thank you
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John I pulled the 7.5 A fuse for the furnace and it was blown. Figured problem solved. Wrong! Immediately blew 2 new 7.5 A. Only the thermostat is not getting power. Any ideas what is causing the furnace fuse to blow?
I forgot to mention that the first blown fuse occurred while the electric heating strip was ‘on’. Could the heat strip be the continued cause of blowing the fuses? Can the heat strip be removed from the Dometic A/C?
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John you are amazing. As you teach me I have more questions. If I shut off shore power and turn off the disconnect switch under the bed, will that cut off all power to the fuses & breakers ?
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2 hours ago, John E Davies said:
That is why I suggested using pointy pliers with an insulated tip, so you won’t short something out. If you have a plastic fuse puller you can use one of those for getting the fuse out. Unfortunately those clip onto the fuse to remove it, you can’t push one back into place with it, and it is too easy to cock it sideways when doing it with your fingers. And you still need to be able to get in there with pliers to squeeze the ears a little. Here is what it looks like, you can see the row of double ears that hold the fuses. Sort of hold them....
I have no problem doing this, but when in doubt, disconnect the battery negative cable. Then, no worries. It is low voltage so not a danger to you, OTH do not remove the entire cover like in that picture without shutting everything down, the stuff on the right side is 120 volts and very deadly.
Something like this with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing works. If the battery is disconnected you do not need to insulate it at all.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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John do I need to shut off all power before removing the 7.5 A furnace fuse?
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Does the thermostat power come from the AC breaker ? Or the 12V 15 A fuse or the 7.5 A fuse for furnace under the dinette? 2017 Elite II.
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11 hours ago, Bobfirst said:
If propane gets between the 2 hulls will it escape over time ?
11 hours ago, Bobfirst said:Yes the alarm stopped once the gas was shut off at the tank. Someone suggested to switch to the second tank. And no alarm!
several hours later we switched back to the tank during the alarm. And still no alarm.
so for now the potential leak seems to have disappeared.
Could a faulty regulator be the reason for the initial leak ?11 hours ago, Bobfirst said:Yes the alarm stopped once the gas was shut off at the tank. Someone suggested to switch to the second tank. And no alarm!
several hours later we switched back to the tank during the alarm. And still no alarm.
so for now the potential leak seems to have disappeared.
Could a faulty regulator be the reason for the initial leak ? -
Yes the alarm stopped once the gas was shut off at the tank. Someone suggested to switch to the second tank. And no alarm!
several hours later we switched back to the tank during the alarm. And still no alarm.
so for now the potential leak seems to have disappeared.
Could a faulty regulator be the reason for the initial leak ? -
2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
Bobfirst, if your detector ONLY alarms when the propane is turned on at the bottle, it's really important to determine if you have a leak.
Propane is heavier than air. It can sink into the interstitial space between the hulls.
Do you own, or have access to a propane sniffer?
2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:Bobfirst, if your detector ONLY alarms when the propane is turned on at the bottle, it's really important to determine if you have a leak.
Propane is heavier than air. It can sink into the interstitial space between the hulls.
Do you own, or have access to a propane sniffer?
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To replace the LP detector do you pry it away from the outside or remove it from inside under the dinette seat?
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2 hours ago, topgun2 said:
Bobfirst -
About the only way to shut off the alarm is to remove its fuse. This fuse can usually be found near the back side of the alarm under the dinette seat. However, remember that this alarm is there for your safety and given the symptoms you describe, it would seem imperative that you find the source of the leak.
Bill
Bill the fuse is directed behind the detector? Do you pry the cover off to access the fuse & change the detector if this is the problem? I agree that I think we have a real leak inside & do not want to disable
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Any suggestions on how to access the gas lines to the Truma, furnace, stove , refrigerator?
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The propane alarm under the dinette set is beeping & blinking red lights to alert propane inside the Oliver. No gas was being used inside. Turning off the gas at the cylinder stopped the alarm.
Any guesses where there could be a gas leak inside the Oliver ? How can you shut off power to the alarm monitor ? Where would you go to locate & fix a gas leak?
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5 hours ago, AndrewK said:
Bob,
I think this is what you are referring to.
Towready 20142 7-Way Plug Adapter
Andrew
Andrew that’s it! Thank you
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Does anyone know of the part that can be added to the 7 pin connector which eliminates the trailer disconnect message in F-150. Jason. added this part but we have lost it
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Update on Dura Bath Faucet Warranty . They required verification it is a Dura faucet. Had to slip iphone between faucet & wall. Now they are sending a replacement head under Dura Limited Lifetime Warranty
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How to remove broken door latch?
in General Discussion
Posted
Very resourceful!