Geronimo John
-
Posts
1,396 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
36
Posts posted by Geronimo John
-
-
On 4/13/2024 at 3:15 AM, Wandering Sagebrush said:
GJ, what will be your replacement for the 3way? Will it allow you to replace both refer vents? I notice that the new Ollies still retain the upper vent.
I like the Nova Kool R5810. Has a larger freezer and other benefits. Ken (Mountain Oliver) installed one and I put together with his ideas and edits the attached DYI guide for install. There is a good amount of info here in the forum threads as well.
GJ
Nova Kool R5810 Installation (7 MARCH 2023 Version).docx
NOTE:: I edited the attachment to correct several typos and some minor clarifications. No significant changes otherwise.
-
4
-
1
-
-
Long time ago, John D. stated that he would not go beyond 15,000 miles on the OEM Dexter bearings. I asked how long with annual service the replacement Timken's would likely run and i recall 60,000 miles. For sure we get what we pay for.....
GJ
-
1
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Townesw said:
look inside the rear bumper. There is a rubber seal around the sewer pipe
Super easy fix. Have added this simple DIY fix to my summer list. "Another One Beats The Dust!"
Gj
-
1
-
-
On 5/9/2022 at 12:01 PM, connor77 said:
should I be looking for something on the remote that might help?
Lucky guy. You can still see the buttons on that micro remote................
-
2
-
-
Thanks Bill. I had missed it by speed reading while looking at his excellent pictures. Every one of them are perfect.
What they highlighted to me (beyond the message of fixing the likely vent problem) is just how much dust my Ollie has between the hulls where the majority of our MEP resides. it certainly did not come from the factory that way. Likely the dust is from the air vents for the curb side and lots of dusty camping roads. It can't be good for the MEP systems.
Looking forward to having to replaced the Dometic absorption refrigerator and sealing up the refer vents. That should help on the dust issue. Left would be the Suburban furnace grill used to provide cooling and combustion air to the furnace. Maybe a bolder catcher filter there. Plus about three days with a strong vacuum with 20 feet of hose.
GJ
-
3
-
-
On 4/9/2024 at 5:05 AM, Townesw said:
There is a plumbing vent under the back right corner of the range. It is supposed to let air in and not let grey tank smells out. If you are smelling something foul (grey tank odors, not black tank odors) and you can’t locate a leak you might have a bad plumbing vent.
Brilliant!
-
3
-
-
Really important to know our actual height's, especially with any mods.
As far as relying on posted info without not checking.....I do not have a Sat Receiver. So per the 2018 brocuhure, the height of my Ollie should be 8' 6".
Tilt: Our Ollie is well over 8' 6" high.
Also remembering that posted bridge heights are not always updatedd after paving overlays. Personally I use anything posted as under 10 feet posted as a RED FLAG warning. Less than that I stop and test fit so to speak. As you point out, we all really need KNOW what our rig's height really is.
GJ
-
If it is magnetic, it's not bronze or brass. It has Iron. Will work, but it's not the best... IMO.
GJ
-
Following is rabbit hole conjecture on my part for your amusement:
- The G-forces on loads behind the center point of the twin axles are lineally amplified by the lever arm distance. It therefore is good design to have more structural supports behind the axles than in front of them as reported.
- As the EZ Flex raises and lowers the axles based upon up/down road bumps/holes/trenches, it could also be adding additional loads to the areas in front and behind the axle center points. If those are in-phase with the road induced G-forces, the structural member loadings would be increased beyond that mentioned above.
-
1
-
1
-
2
-
IF your Axle Decal looks like this one, You may want to read the rest of the below.
From what I can figure out, Red Neck Trailers was “Integrated” into Nuera Trans which was “Hoovered Up” into Dexter. The original Red Neck Trailers is still in business as is Nuera Trans. All flying the Dexter flag.
As clearly printed on a Dexter Label, they were made by NUERA TRANS likely in Cookeville Tn. So don’t waste your time calling Dexter for a "Build Sheet". The correct terminology is to request the Configuration Info associated with 6339056. The Dexter Customer Service could not pull up this info. So instead, call this knowledgeable contact that has been in her job with all three name changes::
Christy Gillentine | CSR
Dexter Distribution Group
christy.gillentine@dextergroup.com
direct tel:: (931) 739-4034
An alternate would be Denise Ameling via E-mail: <denise.ameling@dextergroup.com>
Please keep in mind that these contacts are ONLY for NURA TRANS labels axels. If your label is not like the one above, the regular Dexter Customer Service is by far the way to get your axle info.
The Nuera Trans Axles (I.E. Really Red Neck Trailer axles that were sold under the Nuera name) were purchased without springs. The springs were sent to them for assembly. They are the Chinese made PR4B springs. Christi stated that if the springs are flattening out, then they were undersized for the application. After they flatten out, then they generally fail as was originally reported on our thread. She stated that the PR4 springs with their thicker steel (2,400 pound rated) would be a better choice.
Here is the CONFIG INFO for this Config Number for my rear axle on Hull 342. If you have the same number on yours, here it is:
Note it states “No Springs, Calculate Leaf Spring Capacity”.
GJ
-
2
-
-
On 4/5/2024 at 9:32 AM, Geronimo John said:
Spring Replacement Build Sheet:
Somewhere up above here in the scores of pages of this thread is a suggestion to get your Dexter axle build sheet(s).....
........Great Customer Services from all four of the Dexter areas I have spoken to.....
The Dexter Team was helpful, but not successful in finding my Build Sheet. So a week later, I am still on the hunt. Seems that as companies get bought up by the Dexter Hoover, records sometimes get "misplaced".
I now have a former employee of a former company of a former company working the question. More to follow likely early next week.
GJ
-
On 4/8/2024 at 5:26 PM, KenB said:
It seems 2018 was not a good year for SOME Oliver refrigerators.
For fun: To be fair, I suggest adding the word in Green above. Our 2018 Hull 342 Refer works quite well (with the added dual fan installation). Likely will continue to do so...... all the way until the day it catches on fire.
For Real: As soon as it starts to go south, eliminate the fire hazard as suggested by John D. years ago.
GJ
-
8 hours ago, Mike and Jill said:
Unanimously, everyone I have spoke with that has the Aventa air conditioning system would like some type of firmware update that would allow the option to have the blower or fan to cycle off and on as the compressor is needed.
The Houghton group have the same feelings about the same situation as yours. The installation of a relay to shut down the fan with the compressor has resulted in a vast improvement.
I have to wonder if the Aussie Engineer at Houghton moonlights for the Aventa folks. If so that would explain the twin disasters. The other issue the Houghton's have is that it does not have a remoted T-stat. We have a solution successfully implemented with the SOB's, but routing is still being worked in our OE2's for the thermistor to bring the Houghton up to world class.
GJ
PS: Several of us OTT owners will be working the thermistor solution over the summer.
-
2
-
-
3 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
I am not a metallurgist, but it seems to me that less flexibility should=less stress on the welds, not more.
Short answer often not. Think of earthquake proof buildings and those that are not. The ones that flex and bend under the stress survive. The solid ones crumble. An efficient solution is to have more cross members properly attached to the main frame members. Load distribution is the idea. Less load, less overload, less failures. The supported tanks would like it much better as well.
GJ
-
3
-
-
On 4/9/2024 at 10:07 AM, Patriot said:
After talking with @rideandfly I went out to the Ollie Hangar and rolled up under “XPLOR” and took a good hard look at ALL the frame/chassis welds. All appear to be solid.
Good news Patriot.
Just noticed the yellow "thing" on your spring shackle. What is it?
thanks. GJ
-
Liked your post. I'm also a Meguiar's guy. Our Ollie sees 3 to 4 months of summer hot sun a year. Other months are in a dark barn covered. Some questions:
I wax Ollie once a year. Is that adequate?
I have a Rupes LHR15ES Random Action Buffer. Have not used it on Ollie. Do you use yours routinely on our OE2's?
Will be using the 67 one step as you in a season or two. What buffing pads do your recommend using for the 67 one step to "Buff" it out with your polisher.
Thanks
GJ
-
We should be getting up the enough with ALCAN for a volume discount!
-
4
-
-
3 hours ago, routlaw said:
Sorry but I am a bit miffed at the moment and slightly venting. Repair was $103 and change.
As one of the more senior aged trailers (2015 OE2 Hull #70), a key piece of info of interest is "Has the frame design changed over the years" and if so, "How and When"?
GJ
-
1
-
3
-
-
On 4/6/2024 at 1:43 PM, John Welte said:
took a wet paper towel and ran it along the track. That seemed to take care of the fuzzy look. I will keep the night shades up a couple inches as I had them completely closed before. I did check the drain holes and they're free of debris.
John:
Your keeping the shades a bit above the track is a good idea for winter storage as well. The shades don't provide much insulation so why keep them in a potential wet zone?
Good idea... Thanks
GJ
-
1
-
-
I recommend you check your vent stack in the closet and below the decks. You should not be
sellingsmelling anything.GJ
-
1
-
1
-
-
Hull #364 - The Roadrunner
2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L
Not knowing your year, but guessing your Hull 364 is a 2018 as is ours.
If that's the case, your should look like mine and it is the same as Rideandfly's pictures.
We had under cooling and over heating concerns and added the double fan posted above. it has helped quite a bit in very warm or HOT conditions.
GJ
-
1
-
2
-
-
-
2
-
-
On 4/5/2024 at 3:57 PM, Patriot said:
I am sure there are other options out there, but this is what we use and it has worked great for the last few years.
GJ NOTE: Below costs were created with total disregard for either the cost of money or inflation:
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Several times I, and other owners have discussed running dehumidifiers as you successfully do. For a group of us though that can't monitor our trailers for months at a time, the issue becomes the condensate pan service. Your post rekindled this problem and sparked an idea that may work. I store Ollie covered in a dark barn. In the fall, as part of my winterization I run the A/C temp down to around 60 degrees F to dehumidify as best as possible.
OPTION ONE - DAMP RID: To aid in humidity control, I use two of the large Damp Rid buckets and deploy them inside Ollie before I protect her further with a trailer cover. Each summer I uncover her and the Damp Rid buckets have fully exhausted their abilities. So, I know that at some point they have no longer been able to keep the humidity quite low. That said, I have not had any problems so far. The Damp Rid costs $28. Three year Damp Rid cost = $84
OPTION TWO - PRO BREEZE: To use the Pro Breeze for extended unattended use, I would place it on the counter by the sink. Then place a funnel and drain tube under the existing condensate drain port . As the Pro Breeze worked it's magic, the condensate would drop into the funnel and down the drain tube. I would run the tube down the kitchen sink drain and past its P-Trap. Once past the P-Trap, the condensate would drain downhill to the gray water tank. By running the hose past the kitchen sink P-trap it would not render the P-trap antifreeze in the trap ineffective. I would keep the trailer nose a bit high and crack the gray water tank drain valve a bit open to ameliorate the Pro Breeze condensate freezing concerns. The hardware to install likely would include a freeze stat to prevent running of the unit when temperatures are below freezing. The costs of this would option are about: $28/year in power (Assumes 4380 hours run time, at 16 cents/kwh.) Three year power cost: $84. Hardware, about $30. Assuming it lasts three years, $70. Three year Pro Breeze cost = $184
Your thoughts? Any better ideas?
-
1
-
-
Smell just
On 4/6/2024 at 11:57 AM, Dennis and Melissa said:We have a (mild?) smell at the entrance, only at the entrance, just as you step inside.
Much more likely is you are smelling one of the sources as mentioned above.
But just to cover a very remote possible source not yet mentioned:
Take a strong wiff of your over the door head bumper. Could have gotten wet and went south on you.
Not likely, but worth a 4 second check.
GJ
-
1
-
Shower faucet low water pressure
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Trainman: Good idea on blowing out the assembly for plastic shards removal. Also, please update both your signature line and profile to include you hull number. Thanks.
Imelda! Good post. Thank you. "Slowly over an hour": What were your thoughts for the slow injection process? I was thinking of just disconnecting the hose and dunk it and the faucet head into a small bucket of vinegar? But then you are using industrial strength vinegar.....
All: FYI COSTCO also sells 1.3 gallon jugs of 5% Vinegar. But it's no where as strong as Imelda's 30% cleaning and industrial vinegar. The PH scale is not linear! The acetic acid in the industrial version literally will eat many metals. If using this for decalcification the mixing ratios are drastically different than the 50/50 generally posted for run of the mill COSTCO or other commercial grocery store brands. The 30% stuff will blind immediately and burn as well. No kidding here.
Specifically per OSHA: "This material is considered hazardous by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). SIGNAL WORD: DANGER GHS HAZARD PICTOGRAMS: Hazard Statements: Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Precautionary Statements: Do not breathe mists, vapors, spray."
GJ
.