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dbp05ret

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Posts posted by dbp05ret

  1. I used it the very first time that I tried the City Water Connection. On this very first trip, I wanted to make sure that I tested all aspects of the Oliver since it was under warranty. When I picked up the Oliver it was winterized and I camped in it for 2 days at David Crockett SP. I did not de winterize until I had been in Florida a few days.  I used fresh water tank the first few days and then decided to try the city water connection. I used the Pressure Regulator Valve (PRV) from the beginning at 20 psi. When it immediately started leaking from the weep holes, I went back to the fresh water tank and have been seeking input ever since. Darryl

  2. I have been using an external water pressure gauge. I am going to try again in a few days when I move to a campground in Georgia. I will likely turn psi to around 50 and see what happens. If it still leaks, I will go back to filling fresh water tank and using it.. Thanks for info Ken on #381 and #390 or so. I have #412. I made an appointment 2 weeks ago for March 18 to take care of a warranty issue. If it is still leaking, I will get it fixed. Richie and Jason have always been very supportive and I have confidence that if broke it will be fixed. If a trend exist, they will probably replace both. Thanks! Darryl

  3. After waking up and walking the dog, I decided to examine all areas for a possible leak including the basement. All seems in place. I then started reviewing in my head what the possible problem could be that would preclude the city water connection from working as advertised. I am thinking that since I have water in freshwater tank that maybe I need to turn off the water pump first and completely drain the faucets before I hook up city water. As it was, I would just turn off the pump and connect city water and then turn faucets on. Maybe there is a check valve that won't allow city water to flow in faucets until fresh water tank water has cleared. Thus, causing the city water to be blocked and drain through the street side weep holes. Mike and Carol's last post made me think that could be the issue. I have yet to have the guts to try it again. Any input before I try this would be appreciated.

  4. Valve configuration is in normal. My first guess after your input is tomorrow I will set pressure at 50-60 psi. The water coming thru overflow starts immediately so it may be that I have the regulator set way too low and water pressure is not high enough to push through. So, that is what I will try in morning.

     

    pull out the basement matt and check the connections under there.

     

     

     

    Can you explain that? I am showing my ignorance on not knowing exactly what and where your referring to?

     

     

     

    Thanks,

     

    Darryl

     

     

  5. Day 10 of  35 day shakedown  camping trip. I have been running water from my fresh water tank. Today, I moved to a different campground and decided to hook to city water. I hooked to city water with psi of 20 according to my gauge. Water pump is turned off. I turn on outside water source and turn on water in bathroom and kitchen. Water  flows through the faucets but I get lots of water coming out of the 2 overflow ports near the city water hookup port. What have I not done correctly?  Any ideas?

  6. I think I am getting somewhere. This is my valve config that I am using is below. It is opposite of Bill"s which is in by pass mode. I remembered to turn on both switches. One at the water heater and the other above the galley. I take it that the one above the galley does stay on red because it quits shining after 15 seconds or so. I have really hot water at kitchen sink and bathroom. However, I believe the one in bathroom has the plumbing reverse. The direction of blue in the bathroom has hot water emitting and red has cold. This is opposite of kitchen sink.

     

    John,

     

    Thanks for the post about the switch at the water heater.  That was one of my mistakes.

     

     

    pic8.thumb.jpg.d410d6492ef65cc78a507c78a2f2c4a1.jpg

  7. If the winterization valve is in the summer mode the handle will be aligned toward the tank (toward the street side). If it is in the winter mode (bypassed) then the valve handle will be at 90 degrees to the tank, in other words, aligned with the bypass hose that connects the hot and cold lines together.

     

     

     

    So, I got water out of the pressure relief valve and it is warm. Every time I push the water heater button above the galley, it stays on for 15 seconds (red light) and then goes off.

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

     

     

    Darryl

  8. We have been dry camping for a week now and today I have decided to fill fresh water tank and de winterize. The first thing I did was place hot water heater anode screw in and tighten I then filled the tank to 90 % and turned on water pump. All is well and water is flowing and pump is pumping. Now my stumbling block. I am not sure if I have water in hot water tank. I have yet to turn hot water heater on due to that anxiety. Attached is a picture of how I have the valve. Any advice if this is correct direction of the valve to allow water into the heater?

  9. Good Morning, We are camped in our Oliver after making a trip to the Mothership yesterday. Last night, I tried to hook up the hdmi splinter that David (S) recommended. I wanted to see if I could use my cell phone as a mobile hotspot with my laptop to watch a movie on Amazon Prime displayed on the Furrio Television . It took me less than 5 minutes to make it happen. Thanks for the help from previous post. We are now jamming to Eric Church, Chris Janson and Luke Combs on youtube at David Crockett State Park at 5:30 am displayed on the television in a park with no wifi. Next stop Lake Guntersville. On by the way, I am not a techie. Usually a hammer, crescent wrench and a log spliter will cure most of my problems.

    • Thanks 3
  10. We picked up our Oliver Legacy II on December 12, 2018. It had already been winterize. We kept it winterized and dry camped at Crockett for 2 days. On February 6, we head south to Pensacola, Fl, Hunting Island and Huntington Beach, SC with a stop in Wilmington, NC before heading back to KY.  I was reviewing procedures this afternoon on how to bring the Oliver out of winterization  upon reaching favorable temps. It would be nice if I could flush the system prior to departure but does not look like temps will cooperate here in KY. I have reviewed the normal valve template that is located under the curbside twin bed. It seems pretty straight forward. I will also need to close the fresh water tank valve and ensure the hot water heater has anode rode in place prior to turning on the water pump. It is my plans not to use city water hookup at this time but use the fresh water holding tank.  Our Oliver is under cover at our location and we are in it daily. Batteries have been maintained at a charged level. What advice can you offer a first time RV owner on his first trip with the Oliver coming out of winterize conditions? Also,  I am having trouble identifying 2 items that are depicted in the pictures below. First picture and second picture are from the curbside between the steps and refrigerator vent. Not sure what first picture depicts. I think the second picture is the fresh water tank over flow. 3rd picture is normal valve configuration.  Any and all assistance would be appreciated. Thanks!

    pic1.thumb.jpg.b69eb2115bfaccedf9f3dc1d594f826e.jpg

    pic4.thumb.jpg.9642c7ba162afa7d234d37199bb7ba7a.jpg

    pic3.jpg.20f381f91d28588c11a44fa364260f81.jpg

  11. I called 1up and placed the order for my bicycle rack. As I was talking to the sales person, he said that the rack is only made in 2 inch and that I would need to buy the 1 1/4 to 2 inch adapter. I knew that already since the Oliver receiver hitch is 1 1/4. Then he says, when you use an adapter, it will cut the rating of the original receiver hitch in half. I was not aware of that. Well, the sticker on the back of the Oliver near the receiver hitch says "do not exceed 100 pounds".  The 1 up rack weighs 46 pounds and our touring bikes weigh approximately 20 lbs apiece. That would be 86 lbs. Using an  1 1/4 to 2" adapter would technically  mean that I must buy a rack  at this time that comes in a 1 1/4. Therefore, 1 up is out though I am tempted. I told the salesperson that I needed to do more research and did not place the order.

  12. I tried a search to see if this had been discussed before but got zilch results. Who uses a 1up bicycle carrier? A friend of mine who doesn't own one told me that they are an awesome bicycle carrier rack. I looked at their web page and have exchanged some emails with them. I was thinking about buying the https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2in-heavy-duty-double-bike-rack for the back of my Oliver. I would also need to purchase a hitch expander. This way the rack could be used on the back of my Oliver (1" 1/4), Subaru (1" 1/4) or Tow Vehicle (2")receivers. Prior to this rack coming to my attention, I was considering a Kuat Sherpa 2.0.  The 1up seems to be heavier duty and I like the way it appears to be made. Is there anyone who has had first hand experience with 1up? Thanks in advance! Darryl

  13. I have been researching bicycle racks for my new Oliver. A friend of mind from Minnesota stopped by over the holiday. He is into mountain bikes, fat tire bikes, touring bikes and road bikes. I told him that I was thinking about buying a Kuat 2.o hitch rack that I could use on the Oliver as well as the Subaru. He said that if he was buying another rack it would be by 1 UP. He said it is a great rack. I then saw that some of the people on this forum have racks made by 1 UP. I would be interested in your opinion of the 2 inch Heavy Duty Double or Super Duty Double. Of course, I would need to purchase a hitch expander as well. Thanks! Darryl

  14. We were looking at departing Kentucky for a couple of weeks in February for a warmer and drier climate. We would like to go where there is some decent Rails-to-Trails for bicycling.  An area that came to my attention is the Brooksville/Inverness Florida area. This area came to my attention because of an upcoming event called Bike Florida 25th Anniversary  at the end on March 2019. I found a campground called Trails End RV Park near Floral City, Florida. This campground is about 4 miles away from Withlacoochee State Trail . I spoke to the campground manager and read numerous positive reviews about this RV park. I am not set on any particular area but I would like to stay East of the Mississippi. I have the following questions:

     

    * Does anyone of any favorite campgrounds that are near really good bicycling trails that is in a warm climate during the month of February?

     

    * Has anyone ever been to the Floral City/Inverness/Brooksville area?

     

    Our bicycles are touring bicycles that are ideal for road or Rails-to-Trails.

     

     

     

    Thanks!

     

    Darryl

     

     

     

     

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