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Posts posted by CedarForks

  1. One final wrinkle:

    "And the one in the rear I can turn 90 degrees so that there is extra space behind"


    On mine the rear width is just 17" -- so I cannot turn it 90 degrees. Also, the width at the crook of the L is just 15"


    So it goes...

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  2. Clearly, your TT follows the dotted line and 3 crates can fit:



    However, my TT follows the solid line as originally posted.

    Perhaps production found it less labor intensive to just have a straight wall instead of following the curve. So there's dead space in there?

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  3. Sorry: it must be very irksome to you. I've relied on your opinion on all sorts of issues, especially the Lagun Table jig. So I assure you I've tried every possible way to fit 3 19" x 13" crates in the basement without success. Perhaps the basement dimensions have changed over time, but I doubt it as the stated length is given as 48" in the "measurement index" for all recent model years.

  4. Please correct me if any assumptions below are incorrect.


    Only two 19 x 13 x 11 milk crates can fit in the basement:also



    However, one 19 x 13 x 11 and two 13 x 13 x 11 can also fit:



    If you have the optional interior access installed, there is a problem. The access is 4" from the floor and just 7.5" tall, making the top edge 11.5" from the floor.


    But the crates are 11" high, thus making it impossible to access the contents of the milk crate. the crate/container should  be at most be 6" high to make the contents accessible from the inside.


    To address these issues, I've been playing around with some custom designed containers as shown below. They can be constructed using fiberglass over molds. OTT has the expertise to do this easily, but the production team have their hands full producing TTs and probably won't be interested. A local fiberglass shop is willing to do it ($$). Another way is to use 0.25" polycarbonate and poycarbonate cement to construct them ($$$$). Yet a third way would be to use wood ($?).


    All the containers are 12" high (leaving room for casters underneath). Container 5 has a lip of 4" in the front And a height of 12" in the back , for those who have the interior access installed. Otherwise all sides should be 12",


    Containers 4, 5 & 6 are restricted to a 14" length so that they can easily "turn the corner" when sliding the in or out:



  5. Please reconsider. The audience for a classified ad is considerably reduced by insisting that visitors register in order to see the ad.


    There are other ways to protect oneself from spam.  I personally use a separate email address for that purpose.

  6. The male end of our Propane hose will not lock into the female receiver on the Oliver.


    It seems that the 'springed rings' (terminology?) that one pulls back to insert the male end does not pull back far enough, leaving the ball bearings only partially retracted.


    Close inspection shows that the 'springed rings' are hitting the Oliver's frame before they're fully pulled back.


    Or am I missing some obvious point?

  7. Figure A shows the hooks used on the safety cables. As the actual terminology is unknown to me, I'll just call the spring-loaded piece of metal the 'flap'.

    Figure B shows the flap half open -- the gap available is a scant 3/8".

    On the Ford F150 the cables hook onto an opening on a flat steel surface.

    Figure C shows the difficulty in unhooking from the flat steel surface (shown in red): the flap can just barely scrape by.

    Someone, somewhere, suggested that one permanently install two hammerlocks on the tow vehicle.

    I find that the problem is now just aggravated and transferred to the hammerlocks (Figure D), which cannot be used to hook or unhook.

    The answer seems obvious: shorten the flap (at the red mark) as shown in Figure E.


    Is there any problem introduced by doing that?

    Can the hooks be purchased with shorter flaps?






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