mjrendon
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Posts posted by mjrendon
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13.3V on this table represents 90% full. You might check it after being plugged in to shore power for a few hours.
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43 minutes ago, NCeagle said:
The other member could be using an older Zamp controller that does not support Lithium.
My ZAMP controller is from 2017 but has support for Lithium.
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John,
You likely quoted my previous comment since I have only been seeing 13.3V at the ZAMP display until recently when I checked the controller before towing and saw it at 13.8V. Note that after 25 minutes of towing the voltage had dropped to 13.3V at the ZAMP (could be parasitic drain to the TV or loss when lifting trailer to hitch).
After being plugged in to shore power I typically see 14.5V, which I consider full.
NCeagle,
What voltage are you seeing when the ZAMP is "full"?
Mike
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28 minutes ago, LiFeBlueBattery said:
Your trailer charging system can reach 14.6 Volts. This voltage would be connected to the tow vehicles electronics. Check with your TV manufacturer for their recommendation.
Larry,
Thank you for responding with LifeBlue recommendations.
My understanding is that typical alternators produce 15 volts for charging the lead acid battery. It would seem that 14.5 volts from the trailer would not be unusual because of this.
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Great idea...
Continued from previous message... After getting the trailer home I charged the two Battleborns up for 90 minutes using shore power. The ZAMP showed 14.6 volts. Then I removed the batteries to prepare for a four battery retrofit.
I charged the other two batteries up one at a time to 14.5 volts using the trailer (90 minutes roughly). I placed all four batteries in the tray and started measuring for bus bars and cable clearance. I concluded that it would be best to move all but the two main battery cables into the trailer before installing the four batteries. So I started planning that as my next project. I am still a bit confused by some of the Oliver wiring choices, but plan on making small improvements along the way.
The original two batteries that I pulled out had voltages at 14.1 and 13.9 (measured several times over several hours), which is pretty close, but I felt I should balance them before reinstallation.
I placed the two other batteries (previously un-used) into the trailer after verifying they were properly balanced (both read 14.2V). I returned the trailer to storage and have been planning the movement of the other cables into the trailer. I will post my plans in a new thread for feedback before I purchase anything else for this part of the project.
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I don't believe that I have ever seen my ZAMP controller above 13.3 volts until recently when before I hooked up to the trailer I took a quick peek. It was at 13.8 volts after being parked for a week with no shore power attached. I hooked it up to the truck and towed it for 25 minutes and then checked the voltage at the ZAMP again. This time it had dropped to 13.3V. I was a bit surprised that the battery voltage had dropped by 0.5V.
I currently have 2x Battleborn batteries and it was sunny out (with solar), but it was later in the evening.
I will plan on testing for the parasitic draining of my house batteries through the 7 pin connector.
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So you recommend the 9001E (1, 2, or 1+2) instead?
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A lot of great information is already posted here. I am a relatively inexperienced and I probably worry too much about planning the route...
I recommend;
Know the range of your TV while towing. Choose a few fuel options before you start the trip (use google maps to preview as others have stated). Keep in mind that you may need to make adjustments for the amount of climbing and/or wind.
Don't overdue it. At first you may find that towing is stressful and it is better to have shorter drive days, if possible. You might consider stopping at a few rest stops along the way to help prevent fatigue if you are feeling a bit stressed.
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I considered starting a new topic, but since my question is similar I will piggyback on carnivore's existing topic. Please let me know if it is better to start new topics instead of reusing older ones.
I want to be able to isolate the batteries, solar and house 12V appliances from each other. I purchased the Blue Sea 5510e (dual circuit) switch and plan on wiring it such that one source is a bank of lithium batteries and the other source is the positive terminal from the solar charger (new MMPT). I will connect both outputs from the switch to the positive bus bar.
Any thoughts on this approach?
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7 hours ago, Overland said:
I think with a 24 volt circuit that I could also power my Sonos directly rather than with the inverter.
Were you planning on using one of these?
I configured a 19v version for the wifiranger router and a small computer. It been working great so far.
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The film is a great idea. It wouldn't be necessary if the porch lights had both dimming and full RGB capabilities.
I use these lights on the awning or around the campsite with a USB battery. They weigh almost nothing and have a nice warm color. They come on a small plastic film reel so they are pretty easy to keep organized.
update: Just checked power consumption - 1W.
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Ospreybob,
Thank you for sharing this pdf. Did either Oliver or LifeBlue offer a solution for the TV battery pulling power from the Oliver house batteries through the 7 pin connector, besides unplugging the TV at each stop.
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1 minute ago, Overland said:
Plus I eliminated about ten feet of plumbing in the process by not running the two fill lines to the back and then forward again. I’m actually not sure why Oliver doesn’t do it like that to begin with.
Overland,
Is it easier or harder to find/repair leaks with the original Oliver plumbing locations?
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7 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:
I always wondered what the future Hot Rod folks were gonna do in a Tesla and e vehicle world. Seems there is life in the next 50 years for the old car guys...
Job security for the brakes and transmission repair shops I am guessing.
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1 hour ago, John E Davies said:
In one, he simulates a family taking their Model X on a camping trip, driving 100 miles up a 1-percent grade at 75 mph. Factoring the 5500-pound weight of the Model X itself, plus 500 lb of payload and 5000 lb of trailer, increased drag coefficient from the trailer, rolling resistance, and gravity, Fenske calculates that 100.4 kWh is needed to make that trip. In other words, you'd need to recharge to make it.”
The math is interesting but none of the scenarios are the same (X, C, F) making it difficult to apply to real world scenarios. From the video, the conclusion I came away with is that you may need to avoid campsites that are >/= 100 miles away and have a constant 1% grade if you max out your cyber truck's towing capacity. And, no matter which vehicle you choose you need to be aware of the requirements to get there and back.
Maybe a shorter trip with 2% grade would have allowed the Cyber Truck to return back home with a nearly topped off battery by using its regen capability?
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A used or new ICE vehicle now while you are waiting for the Cyber Truck seems like a great option. The number of recharging stations and locations has been anything but static. With the eSEMIs coming, the network of pull through charging stations is going to expand quickly.
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7 hours ago, Chukarhunter said:
What I have learned is that for later models of the Oliver with the Progressive Dynamics 2000 watt inverter
Mine uses the Progressive Dynamics Converter and a Xantrex Prowatt inverter and I do not see any charging capabilities listed in the ProWatt Inverter owner's guide.
Progressive Dynamics does have a 2000W inverter listed on their website. I just don't have one.
My 2017 LE2 has these electrical components;
- Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power 4000 Series Converter model PD4045K
- Progressive Industries MS-HW30C Surge Protector
- Xantrex 2000 watt inverter ProWatt SW2000
- Xantrex Prowatt remote
- Xantrex transfer switch
- ZAMP ZS30A Charge Controller
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9 minutes ago, Overland said:
There's a good discussion about the possibility of towing with the cybertruck here, and in that topic there's some general discussion about towing with other electric vehicles including the X.
I really enjoyed reading this discussion and wonder if many opinions here have changed in the past year. It will be interesting to see what happens once the cybertruck is released and some real towing range numbers start rolling in.
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This is great news for the owners of the Life Blue systems implemented in Oliver trailers. Combined with the external heating seems to address one of the issues (charging when too cold) with lithium house batteries.
Here is another option for external heating using 12V DC that may work for those not using Oliver's engineered solution. It is by Facon and originally intended for holding tanks but is about the correct size for the LE2 battery compartment. There are mentions of it being used for batteries on the Amazon website.
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26 minutes ago, Overland said:
actually, will the LifeBlue batteries stop a charge, or are they dependent on the (Oliver inactivated) heating system to keep them in a chargeable state
This is pretty important to know for owners of the new Oliver system. It could make for a bad camping trip if heating pad ever failed and the batteries get charged when they are cold. Hopefully the internal BMS will prevent this from occurring.
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58 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:
Ok, a question - Why is the new Li Oliver system not designed such that this issue is not - an issue. Seems like an engineering error - omission. The Dc to DC is a cheap - simple solution - similar to what I did on my last van conversion.
I think that most of the existing lithium based Oliver trailers were not designed by Oliver engineering. Should there be accountability on Oliver's part if the owner changes battery chemistry?
I believe there is at least one Oliver lithium based system out now. Do the same issues exist on any systems designed/released by Oliver?
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How about a $50 300 watt pure sine wave inverter from the truck to the generator port on the front of the Oliver?
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10 hours ago, John E Davies said:
You need to consider more than the continuous amp rating, the 18 amp one puts out 25 amps for ten seconds, it would pop that 20 amp fuse immediately.
How about this Redarc Trailer Charger, it could mount inside the Ollie near the batteries and connect to the 12 AWG factory charge wire, no worries. Plus it isolates, so no back feed of current.
John,
These are great points.
I lean towards placing the 12 12 DC converter in the trailer and a new power line from the truck to the trailer for charging, however, the potential for parasitic discharging remains via the 7 way connector. I guess a proper low Vf Schottky diode could be placed inline to address this issue.
I need to think about this for awhile.
Maybe others have already solved these issues?
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Startling behavior of a RAM 1500 HEMI 5.7 with e-Torque - TV parasitic draw from RV
in Towing an Oliver
Posted
The table was sourced from Battleborn, but was published on this website.