Stephen and Kelly

I was wondering what to put on the bolt to keep the nut in place next time. Thanks for the suggestion.

So the saga continues…lost power again and this time it did not come back on. I called Progressive and we opened the box to check the connectors and the relay contact box was completely loose from the case. The mounting screw was there but the nut obviously was bouncing around the case. Ugh. So maybe that was the issue or a contributing one. Need to find that nut and get those Wago connectors to bypass the EMS until I get the replacement. I have the external surge protector ready to go. I guess this is something else to check after bouncing down the highway. IMG_2218.MOV

Thank you for this bit of troubleshooting information. Still learning every time I take the trailer on the road. I cannot confirm if this is what happened (assuming if it was then it wouldn’t have come back on after I reconnected power), but something to consider if it happens again.

Yes, I only have the one inlet. This is very odd that the back display didn’t light up even after disconnecting everything, etc. I have a call out to Oliver to see if they might have answers. Just for peace of mind I might get an external surge protector. Thank you for your help! Hope you’re having a great New Year’s Day!

Glad is back on for now but wish I knew the reason it went down. Is there such a thing as “thankfully irritated?”

I’m showing that the shore power goes into the EMS directly. So I looked at the schematic and saw a power indicator. So I decided to plug the Oliver back into show power and everything is back on. What the heck! I’m so very thankful it’s back on camping in Gulf Shores humidity but still confused why it failed. Reading E0, 124V, 18A. Possible surge that tripped something that automatically reset?

No worries. I appreciate the help but I just may need to get this replaced if it is this switch itself. It was making a small intermittent buzzing sound and I was told that was normal by Progressive. I guess it finally went. I believe this is the unit you are talking about?

Not seeing anything than stands out

Hi, It looks like we have no power to the EMS indicator (the monitor located in the back cabinet). I checked all the fuses and breakers, etc. and had the camp grounds check the power coming in with no issues. The only thing I see regarding no illumination is a connection issue (#3 in the attached document) but we do not have power - just battery and inverter power. Assuming it’s the unit that will need to be replaced or is there something else to check/reset? Thanks Steve

Thanks for the responses. Our lien holder is out of state, so physically going there is out of the running. I'll be giving them a call tomorrow.

Hello, We've come to the difficult decision of selling our Oliver. We love it, but it's just not getting the use we had hoped. I've never sold a vehicle with a lien on it, so I am looking for specific advice on how to go about that process that will protect both the buyer and seller. For example, should I set up an escrow account and have the title and payment held there until everything is released, etc., or are there other options? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

So these were the two brass connectors, and you can see the full split down the length of them. Oliver was very responsive and got me the parts quickly. I finally got around to changing them out yesterday. It was a tight spot to work in, but honestly the most frustrating part was trying to wrap the plumbers tape around the threading of the intake in such a tight space - that stuff twisted and stuck to everything but the threading. Took about 2 hours total, but we are back in business. Thanks everyone for your input.

This is all new to me, but certainly willing and need to learn how to do more on my own. I assume to move them further inside will require running more Pex line and be a little more involved. In lieu of that, I was thinking that maybe wrapping the valves in some pipe insulation foam might provide some protection. Considering that I pumped anti-freeze (but did not blow out the lines) through those lines and they still cracked would suggest like mentioned earlier that it could have been a bad batch of fittings. All speculation though. I'll probably start with a replacement and if it happens again then move them further inside.

It's the brass valve. The video is only the city intake. My fresh intake is also doing the same thing, but I don't have a video of that. I suspect its the same issue with the cracked valve.

Did they replace the value or was it something easy enough to do yourself if they just sent the parts?