Frank C

Your shackles aren’t flipped. All of your photos show the shackles in the correct normal orientation.

You just need an adapter cable like this and then a standard extension cord. This will let you connect to one of your house 15 amp outlets. But as mentioned above, this does limit you to 15 amps max current draw. Kohree RV Adapter Plug 30 Amp to 15 Amp 110V, RV Power Adapter 15A Male to 30A Female, RV Dogbone Electrical Adapter Cord 12" with Twist Lock & LED Indicator https://a.co/d/2ZZo15P

Have you confirmed the propane leak with a combustible gas sniffer? Or just with the Oliver alarm going off? If you’re still getting an alarm even with the propane shut off for days, the Oliver alarm may be bad (they do age and need replaced) and it can also be triggered by various air fresheners. Lysol aerosol spray will trigger it, and we just discovered this Glade air freshener will trigger it too if the camper is closed up for a few days (propane tanks off, no propane used for weeks).

The leaf springs are the same all around the trailer, side to side and front to back. The 4LF means four leaf ( four leaves on the leaf spring pack). There are other leaf spring packs with less leaves and some with more. The correct ones for the 3,500 pound axles have 4 leaves (1,750 pounds capacity per leaf spring pack x 2 per axle.

I haven’t seen any update from SNY SD UP. Hope they got it figured out.

Hi and welcome to the forum. As far as advice on trailer camping and retirement in general: 1. Don’t push retirement out too far. I received great advice years ago to “retire as early as financially possible”. And we followed that advice. We’ve know too many friends and relatives who kept putting off retirement for various reasons, and then ended up with health issues, or passing away, that cut short their time to enjoy retirement. There are too many stories like that even here on this forum, and trailers for sale in the classifieds section due to health issues encountered after the trailer purchase. Thankfully we’ve been able to enjoy our time with the Oliver, and have covered a good bit of the continental US at this point, and plan to continue. 2. If you’ve never owned a trailer (or any camping experience?), I agree with the above advice to try renting one and traveling with it first before committing to a big purchase like the Oliver and the necessary tow vehicle. The reality of “traveling the open road and seeing the country” can be a shock to some people compared to their dream. We’ve seen a few folks buy an Oliver, then encounter the reality of camping, trailering headaches, etc. and sell the trailer shortly afterwards. 3. Don’t skimp on a tow vehicle. Get one with more than adequate payload and towing ratings. Most folks consider a 1/2 ton pickup to be the true safe minimum to start with for an Oliver Elite II. 4. Be prepared for all the expenses that come after the trailer purchase (after you get over the initial shock of the Oliver price itself with all the factory options you add). After purchase expenses for the trailer and tow vehicle typically include the following: -Sales tax (6% of the purchase price here in Pennsylvania for us at time of title registration after purchase). -insurance -a trailer cover (the Calmark cover Oliver sells is $1,300) -tire covers for storage. -water filtration system, hoses, fittings, etc. -tire pressure monitoring system -hitch lock -tow vehicle mud flaps such as Rock Tamers -bed cover for the truck -jack blocks -wheel chocks -leveling blocks -extra sewer hose -portable waste water tote tank (for campsites that aren’t full hookup). -portable generator (for boondocking) -misc campsite accessories (chairs, rug, clam shelter, portable grille, awning shade screen, etc) -a good portable tool kit -trailer storage fees -trailer annual maintenance, etc. -repairs! Things do break since RV industry standard components in general aren’t the greatest for durability or reliability. -Harvest Host membership -campground per night fees (cheaper than a hotel but still not free) The list goes on and on, and it really adds up. You can expect another $10,000 to $15,000 in expenses for the above items after the initial Oliver purchase price. Not trying to scare you 🙂, just be prepared with the checkbook. It ain’t a cheap hobby. It reminds me of the boat owners I know who say that BOAT is an acronym for Bust Out Another Thousand 🙂.

Congratulations on the sale, and best wishes on your future camping plans with the new rooftop tent setup. That looks pretty cool. Glad you’ll be sticking around on the forum.

Our 2019 Elite II has that 12v fuse panel in the attic next to the EMS remote display. Pics attached of that plus the one under the dinette. The cover of the attic fuse panel also has a handy fuse puller included. There are a lot of variations in Oliver trailer builds over the years due to component substitutions, options and production line deviations/on the fly changes. We’ve joked on this forum that there probably aren’t any two identical Oliver trailers, especially in the early days of the first couple hundred trailers.

Hi Ralph, you need to provide details of what type of 4 lead acid batteries you have (6 volt or 12 volt) before you start changing jumper wires into a series or parallel arrangement if you only keep 2 batteries. You didn’t specify in your original post, and you mentioned possibly cutting back to using only 1 battery, so that implies a single 12 volt battery. There are Olivers with FOUR 12 volt lead acid wet cell batteries in parallel (I have this setup. It was offered by Oliver as an option, maybe you have the same setup as this?). See photos below.

Screenshot from the Dexter website below. It’s one of those things where some people do it and will say “it’s fine, not a problem” (famous last words before many unfortunate accidents). But the manufacturers always take a very conservative (legally protected) approach. Same as the Oliver instructions that the electric jacks are only for stabilizing, not for lifting the trailer for tire changes.

The blocks on my cover never came off, but after seeing a few owners have issues, I secured all three blocks with white pre-painted aluminum trim screws (available at any hardware store like Lowe’s, etc., but I had some in my garage parts stash from a previous house project). Drilled through from the outer surface of the cover and into the aluminum block and then threaded in the screw. With the white painted head on the screw, it’s barely noticeable on the white fiberglass.

I’m betting it was the front two leaf springs that were replaced, and those 27” long replacement springs are too long. That’s forcing the forward EZflex link up into the trailer frame, and stretching the rear leaf springs to the point that they are flattened. From the Dexter searches I found, it looks like the spring length should be ~25.25” (confusing because the one site part number has a 27). Maybe someone else can confirm the correct Dexter part.

It’s already been split to a new thread. Which springs were replaced? The front two or the rear two? From your additional details it’s sounding like either the wrong replacement springs were used and that’s what is causing the odd rear spring sag, or you still have two broken springs.

Your shackles are not flipped, but what IS odd is how flat the rear leaf springs are, no curvature at all to the rear leaf springs on either side. Check for any cracks or breaks in the individual leaves on each of those leaf spring packs.

One big design flaw I see on the Tesla Cybertruck is accessibility to the truck bed when standing beside the vehicle and trying to reach over those big sail panels on the sides behind the cab. That was a complaint with the original Honda Ridgeline small pickup truck (which Honda fixed with the recent redesign, see photos below). Given the other electric pickup trucks hitting the market like the Rivian and the Ford F-150 Lightning, the Cybertruck just looks like Tesla is putting exotic “futuristic” styling over practical everyday pickup truck function.

Ditto to John’s comment. Before anything else you should check & replace all of the front end steering and suspension components (ball joints, shocks, shock bushings, etc) and the rear shocks & shock bushings. A 22 year old high mileage truck like yours likely has a lot of worn and age degraded components.

Wow! That is beautiful inside and out. It should be in the RV museum in Elkhart Indiana.

Zerk fitting caps. Available on Amazon. LockNLube Grease Fitting Caps (50 Count) (Yellow) https://a.co/d/1SYGqmF

I’ve used my air compressor to blow a few bursts of air into the fresh tank drain hose that exits under the hull. That pushes any plastic shavings out of the drain hose and valve, back into the tank. Just make sure the drain valve is open. It worked well. I’ve done it a few times now. Eventually it seems that all the little plastic shavings in the tank will be sucked up and captured in the filter screen on pump inlet so you can get rid of them and the problem goes away.

So the off brand 12v 100Ah Lithium batteries on Amazon just keep getting cheaper and cheaper ($299.99 in first link below) while BattleBorn’s price is still at a premium ($925 on the BattleBorn website). Or an off brand 12v 220Ah on Amazon for only $549.99! In a metal case enclosure even! (Second link below). No low temp charging cutoff on either of these but still a heck of a deal, since we don’t do any of our camping in sub freezing temperatures. Getting really tempting as I’ll likely be replacing my 4 year old lead acid wet cell battery setup in our Ollie in the near future, but I still have major concerns about the quality of those off brands. I’ve had work experience over the years dealing with Li batteries in medical products, and the quality of the individual cell manufacturing and the design & quality of the overall pack assembly is crucial to safety and performance. I don’t trust all the off brands that keep popping up, but wow, those prices are getting incredibly low. Timeusb 12V 100Ah Pro LiFePO4 Battery, Grade A Battery Cells, Compact Lithium Battery, Built-in 100A BMS,10-Year Lifetime, Perfect for RVs, Solar Home System, and Off-grid Applications https://a.co/d/1uDVBj8 Timeusb 12V 220Ah Lithium Battery, Built-in 150A BMS, Deep Cycle LiFePO4 Battery with Max 2816Wh Energy & 1920W Power Output, RV Battery, Perfect for RV, Camper Van, Travel Trailer, Caravan etc https://a.co/d/hx5sxCe

I would not want to have only 2WD for a TV for the Ollie. There have been multiple times at muddy campsites or sloping uphill gravel roads, and even on the slight slope of my grassy yard when wet that the 4WD on my truck was necessary to be able to move the Ollie.

Yes, if they aren’t too badly out of round or worn. The drums are marked with the maximum re-bore diameter.

His teardown technique is a little crude 😂. But he does point out a big missing feature. No low temp charging cutoff. And looking at the Amazon comments, it looks like that still hasn’t been addressed with the name change.

What brave Oliver owner wants to be the first to try this brand of Lithium ion battery? On Amazon for $319, less than half the price of comparable 100Ah BattleBorn. Surprisingly it has very good reviews. LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery Built-in 100A BMS, Up to 15000 Cycles, Perfect for RV, Marine, Home Energy Storage https://a.co/d/eK940j3

There are one way check valves on each of the inlets (fresh tank fill inlet and city water inlet). That check valve on the city inlet may be bad, or it may be clogged from contaminants or calcium buildup. Unfortunately it’s only accessible by removing the floor in the basement storage area.