Landrover
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Posts posted by Landrover
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When all gets real bad at least us diesel owners. Can delete all the emissions junk and go back to making refined diesel fuel.
Ahhh the smell of French fries while driving down the road. 😎
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I’m surprised this is happening? Doesn’t Oliver still have the booth that simulates heavy rain for thirty minutes to check for internal leaks? Maybe not, production may be moving to Quickly.
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46 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
FYI $1.00 in $2017 had a 2022 buying power of $1.16. So that is a 16% difference. My 2017 $63,000 Hull 218 would cost $66,780 in 2022 dollars.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Thanks John
Perfect timing on your post. It makes a good point for anyone interested in buying my 2019 hull 484. Lol😛
much appreciated.
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I’m sure that would work fine the hard part will be getting them in the doorway and around the corner maybe a struggle. It would most likely be a two person operation. If its your only alternative why not, try it.
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I was 7-8 not sure. Dad had a new 1965 Chevy C30 4x4 step side, with a slide in camper. Mom Dad and my two brothers spent many times at Charleston Beach RI. On the breach way. Driving a couple of miles on the sand to get to the ocean front. My brothers and I got our fill of digging in the sand, when the truck got stuck in deep sand. We always made it. Camped for three four days on the ocean front no one around for miles. With just a ice block refrig small porti potty toilet and 20 gals of water. Good memories.
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2 minutes ago, Landrover said:
Not sure about all the tech conversations. Never had a problem with the DEF fluid. My new GMC has a level gauge full to empty instead of a percentage of use, which makes it much easier to know when to add fluid. Adding fluid is usually 3-5000 miles of use, or every oil change. My mileage has increased to 16-18mpg towing the Oliver. only have 3,000 miles on the truck. I expect this average to go higher once the engine breaks in. There also has been a big increase in tow capacity 18,000 vs 13,500 on my 2017 HD diesel I thought my 2017 highcountry Duramax was over kill. 🤯 The comfort and safety level of the GMC with the diesel is worth putting in DEF fluid not happy about the fuel prices, who is? Still couldn’t be more happier with the choice of a diesel tow vehicle. 😎 you could also import this to Trainman’s post on tow vehicles.
Forgot to add Def fluid is available just about everywhere fuel stations Walmart hardware stores. Until they have a shortage which is becoming the norm among items. 😡
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On 6/25/2022 at 1:23 PM, John E Davies said:
Since the DEF consumption rate is proportional to fuel burned, if you are towing an Ollie and getting say 16 to 18 mpg, you will be burning, almost twice as much DEF. I would appreciate hearing fuel and DEF consumption numbers from owners here, towing and not towing.
And have you ever NOT been able to find some when you needed it? Ever had your engine go into limp mode? How did you deal,with that?
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Not sure about all the tech conversations. Never had a problem with the DEF fluid. My new GMC has a level gauge full to empty instead of a percentage of use, which makes it much easier to know when to add fluid. Adding fluid is usually 3-5000 miles of use, or every oil change. My mileage has increased to 16-18mpg towing the Oliver. only have 3,000 miles on the truck. I expect this average to go higher once the engine breaks in. There also has been a big increase in tow capacity 18,000 vs 13,500 on my 2017 HD diesel I thought my 2017 highcountry Duramax was over kill. 🤯 The comfort and safety level of the GMC with the diesel is worth putting in DEF fluid not happy about the fuel prices, who is? Still couldn’t be more happier with the choice of a diesel tow vehicle. 😎 you could also import this to Trainman’s post on tow vehicles.
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13 hours ago, Cameron said:
Sometimes I feel like the buyer is the final quality control agent in the process and that we have to go through each and every component in the trailer and make necessary corrections and repairs. Of course if I lived in Hohenwald I could just pop over to chat with Jason and the team. But I don't. The upside is that each problem solved (and shared on this fantastic forum) increases our ability to keep our Ollies going wherever we go out on the open road.
The up side is the service Oliver provides. You wouldn’t get half that attention from another company. Glad the elec was an easy fix.
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1 hour ago, Katjo said:
The refrigerator, AC and awning do not work. We are connected to shore power. The interior cabin lights sometimes work but intermittently dim and/or don’t work. We tried the refrigerator on LP and still didn’t work. We checked plug on frig and it is plugged in. Not sure if the mobile rv checked invertor with voltmeter.
How about contacting the previous owner to find out what happened. They may or may not know the answer. It would be disappointing if an owner knowingly sold you a trailer with that big of a problem. Good luck. Also ask Oliver service if any repair tickets were ever noted.
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I thought the concept of the natures head toilet was to do away with the standard toilet and not utilize the black tank. More user friendly. I have to agree with JD and SeaDawg you’ll still get the urine smell which would most likely will come from your outside vent unless you constantly pour in vinegar or black tank chemicals. Then your in the same situation as a regular toilet. Find a dump station, hose hookup dump and black tank rinse. As suggested get a second or even a third pee tank. In my opinion that mod may get old quickly and not worth the hassle.
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1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:
Thanks. Our home is in the "path. "
It's way too early for big storms. Hopefully, a bit of wind, and some significant rain. We rarely worry til late August, unless we're sailing. Different story, there.
My daughter says not even raining at her house. Grateful.
They are saying not much to happen in the ocala Marion county area. Sea Dawg if it changes for the worst you can head my way plenty of room to wait it out.
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When I have someone who’s interested in seeing my Oliver, I will turn the Ac on about 45 mins before showing. I open all the cabinets to let the Ac circulate throughout the entire hull. The temp will be at 74dgs the automatic fan goes to low. It is quite cool and the noise level is minimal. This is in Florida temps in the 90s. In short 45mins🥶
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My GMC tow vehicle has a 400 watt plug in the rear corner of the bed. I cant see much use for it except for plugging in a portable fridge cooler. I’m wondering, if a solar panel can put out 1-2- 3 400watts with a charge controller can this 400watt plug be used in connection with a solar port connection and a charge controller as how a portable solar panel works? Of course the truck would have to be on and idling for the plug to work. Just thought this would be another possibility for battery charging.
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I guess i can officially say my post was right. They are junk and should not be considered. At least you can return it hope the return costs aren’t too bad.💸
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4 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
I found grease guns messy and frustrating too, until I bought a Lock-N-Lube spring-loaded grease gun tip. Expensive, but worth it for me when greasing about 30 zerks on my small tractor.
https://locknlube.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgcmI1PjK9wIVTsLCBB1yzA0JEAAYASAAEgJIGPD_BwE
I’ll add to that lock n lube another expensive tool dewalt battery operated greese gun matching the two on your first use. No more 🤬🤯🥵 worth every penny.
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Check with Oliver. Back In 2019 that plug came with your set up package. It might have changed.
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On 4/22/2022 at 4:54 PM, MarkV said:
Well, on the maiden voyage of Hull 953, we experienced some very strong winds. At one point as I was opening the door, a strong gust got a hold of the door and both pulled me out of the camper and slammed the door stop into the side of the camper. As a result (picture below) the metal plate around the door stop smashed through the fiberglass of the door.
Any suggestion on how best to repair this?
Thanks. Mark & MaryBeth
You may even try Oliver. I’ll bet they have a lot of short pieces laying around
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On 4/20/2022 at 8:24 AM, John E Davies said:
Reviving an ancient thread…. Can anybody post a few good closeup pictures of the original setup? All I could come up with is this blurry screen capture of an old factory tour. This was on an LE2.
They were using a smaller square (?) beam for the tongue main member and it appears that the extension is also an aluminum beam. The new frames are much beefier, 5” x 3” x 0.625” wall. The tricky part would be eliminating play and I believe that there was a bolt failure, that could be interesting, depending where the safety cables were located😳
Is there a beam extrusion available with correct dimensions that would slide snugly into or over the existing big one on my later hull? Would Oliver consider modding my trailer to give an extra 12”, enough for me to install a sideways single bike tray in front of the jack? Any idea of cost? I can submit a ticket, but first I wanted to see exactly how they did it in the Olde Days.
What would be cool is if they would sell the necessary parts as an extension kit for an owner to have installed by a (very) qualified local welder. Otherwise it would be a long round trip for me to go back to TN. It is really hard to source small lengths of reeeeealy big aluminum beams. Buying a ten foot length to obtain a foot or two is not economically viable.
Welding on a fixed extension is probably going to be far simpler, but being able to remove it for storage and theft deterrence would be neat…
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
JD
would an extension off the back of your TV hitch be just as applicable ? They make different lengths. Tongue and cargo weight may come into play. Eventually you have to say to yourself how much is too much. 🥴
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In Florida Ocala area those black spots are flies pooping. All the above work well if they stay on to long. Usually just soap and water works fine.
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3 hours ago, John E Davies said:
You have a SECOND CO detector, in back with the smoke alarm. Removing one isn't going to kill anybody, as long as the other one works. A malfunctioning alarm that keeps blasting for no reason is 100% useless, and must be silenced IMHO, until it can be replaced. Which should be done ASAP, not at the end of a long trip.
The two red wires coming off the detector get spliced together, I don't recall wyhy the second one is there, I think it is for an alternative power source. Just connect them onto one terminal of the switch and run a new wire back from the other terminal to connect to the Oliver power wire. I used a SPST switch (Single Pole Single Throw) switch, it doesn't matter which terminals you use. If you use an illuminated switch with an LED, then polarity does matter, and you also have to run a separate ground wire for the LED. What is really confusing is how Oliver uses non standard colors for their DC wires ! I don't understand how they expect an owner or technician to do anything since they no longer publish diagrams.
John Davies
Spokane WA
So you have two for safety in case one fails. One is shut off and forgotten to be turned back on the second one fails ☠️ Thanks for the clarification.
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John You always have very good Modifications idea’s. This one I have to disagree with. These units are there for one very important purpose to save your life. Maybe not so much for propane because of the smell but carbon monoxide as we all know is a silent killer, especially in the small confined space of the Oliver. I’ll agree they are a pita when they malfunction and the alarms sounds in the middle of the night for no reason. As for myself forgetfulness is becoming more often than i care to admit. Its one switch I would not want to forget even with it flagged. With high safety issues modifications like this is not a good idea to share imo.
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5 hours ago, topgun2 said:
The potential problem with doing this is that the axles just might be dented, bent or otherwise deformed. These axles are not solid material.
The basic problem with this is that depending on where the jacks are placed there may be enough torque to "tweak" or bend the frame such that it will either be out of alignment and/or put stress on the fiberglass body.
Both these issues (and perhaps more) are reasons why Oliver started identifying the specific jack points on trailers sometime in 2017 or 2018. As with SeaDawg my 2016 Elite II has never had jack points identified. However, I've been told that when/if I need to jack up the camper I should place the jack on the steel subframe as close to the axles as I can.
It will be interesting to see what the latest word on this issue is from Service.
Bill
I cant see it but I also can’t argue.Trailer steel frames would flex much more than this solid box aluminum frame. My 2019 has the marked jack points. I’m sure its more of a liability thing like not using the elec jacks to change tires. This is something that I personally won’t be concerned about.
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What is the problem with putting a jack on the aluminum frame? These frames are supposed to be of high quality material and are quite thick. What kind of damage will occur? You may put marks on the frame from the steel jack pedestal. A block of wood between the frame and jack would solve that problem. Aren’t the electric jacks attached to the frame? They don’t cause any damage to the frame. Or will they?
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what a great mod. Simple appears heavy duty. I would also lock the levers to the chain for safety. I’m sure Anderson would not approve and your warranty is out the window. Still a great mod hope it works well for you. Thanks
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Trailer Dolly
in General Discussion
Posted
If your still interested in a trailer valet after reading some of the posts most negative mine being one of them. give me a PM I can sell you the one I have Brand New great price.