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Posts posted by theOrca

  1. 47 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

    Although it was hard to swallow the $3800 Truma upgrade cost (versus the $1500 cost of a RecPro, since we believed we would be o.k. with the Suburban water heater and furnace), we are now glad we have the Truma Varioheat furnace, the Truma Aquago water heater and the CP Plus wall control.  The benefits of the Varioheat furnace, which we did not know were part of the package until we took delivery, include more robust ducting and a return air vent in the bathroom. 

    Since we had to drive home to Idaho in sub-freezing temps, we were also glad we had the Truma antifreeze kit as part of that package. 

    In hindsight, we feel we made the right choice for us, and received good value for the upgrade cost.

    Do I read that correctly? Do you have a Truma furnace as well as AC and hot water.

    I don't see that offered on any part of Olivers web site. How did you find out about it??


  2. 1 hour ago, SteveCr said:

    A slightly less cost approach.......

    2021 Elite 2....just completed replacement of my Dometic jet engine with the Truma Aventa Eco.

    It was installed by the Lakeland Florida Truma service center.

    So far, it seems to work as advertised...no opinion yet using the remote...seems simple.  Hot weather performance test pending!!!

    For the heater....the Truma installer recommended we keep/use the Dometic AC control box and thermostat vs a mechanical or Emerson digital thermostat.

    I used the propane heater while camping this last week. Using the Dometic thermostat was no issue.

    Cost = $2,705 walk out price....includes Aventa ECO, Aventa Air Distributor, Condensate drain kit and installation labor. (included tax was 7%)

    Slightly less? That is like OMG less. Thanks for the info Steve.

  3. When I read the email announcement about the upgrade I thought: "FINALLY!"

    I have found it very hard to get restful sleep with the Penguin A/C roaring in my trailer. The Truma Aventa Eco sounds like the solution...

    OK, the price is <!!!> but heck, some of the things we do with our trailers is financially nuts anyway. (My heating system upgrade probably cost me a thousand bucks in parts and tools, not even counting the hours of labor.)

    I have called Truma, and they confirm that the CP Plus control panel "will/can" control either heat + hot water, or A/C + hot water. They promise to update their website to show that capability. We will still get a remote, but with the CP Plus panel the remote can go into a drawer with all the other ones I don't use.

    Before I jump on this and schedule a 5,000 mile trip to Hohenwald, does anyone see a downside that I may have missed?

    Thanks, Bill

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  4. Well, evidently trip killers to me are merely minor inconveniences to some others. Who knew?  I remain comfortable with my choice, even in the face of some minor snark in one of the above posts. 
    BTW, Oliver handled this in an outstanding manner. Evidently a “one of” type failure. 

  5. The RV world is very familiar with the concept of "Trip Killers." Things like:  no heat during a mid winter hunting trip, a roof leak over the bed, tire blow-out which does severe damage to the trailer, etc., etc., and etc. Most RV'rs are able and willing to make small repairs on the fly as needed, but some things are just not doable. I just discovered a new catagory which is engineered-in to the Legacy Elite II.

    Two days ago I left Oak Harbor on my way to visit Hohenwald and get some delivery warrantee problems fixed. I got as far as Stevens Pass, a three hours drive. When using the toilet, a loud "snap" sound occurred and the toilet came completely free of the trailer hull. I took things apart and found that there is a plastic bracket made by Oatley which is evidently modified by Oliver (according to Mike Sharpe) and then used to join toilet and hull. Service said they could ship me the part, but.... it would be three days to get it. (I'm not sure that UPS would deliver to the roadside at Stevens Pass..)  My choices were: 1. Wait, install part, and drive hard to make my appointment, 2. Wait, install part and make a rescheduled appointment later this summer, or 3. hire a commercial hauler to take my trailer back to the mother ship. I chose number 3.

    You can be sure that my spare parts kit will now also contain one of those "special" brackets that I cannot buy at the average RV parts store. Dang, but I hate trip killer failures!!


  6. On 10/24/2016 at 3:56 PM, Raspy said:

    There seems to be a lot of heat delivered to the "basement" from the hot supply duct as I've noticed the bathroom delivery temp is cooler than the temp back by the beds.  Plus the whole basement gets warm and stays warm.  Also remember there is insulation against the lower shell.

    I wouldn't worry about freezing any lines unless you are doing no heating and it's very cold.  Also, if you have the water heater on, that would also help.



    This thread is very old, but I hope you will see my post.

    I have remote read thermometers located at three locations between the hulls. When Elk hunting in Republic Washington last October it was 8F at night, and warmed up to 21F during the day. The first night my between the hull temp on the drivers side of the trailer dropped to 28F. I took emergency action and opened deck hatches. and raised the front dinette seat to put a space heater between the hulls. I got things stabalized at 33 F for the remainder of my time in Republic.

    I have just finished opening a third duct from the heater and running new ducting to dump between hull heat to the drivers side. I installed ducting dampers controlling the amount of heat AND how much stays in the back half of the trailer and how much goes forward.

    The other trailer in our party had their water freeze for 14 hours a day. Mine would have as well had I not acted. Some of us camp in colder temps than others!



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  7. I think I have figured out why Oliver no longer uses the Dometic Awnings...

    My "purchase" date of Hull 615 was 6 April 2020. I had it delivered, so the first time I saw it was 11 April. Within 10 days I had noted a hole in my awning, and deep drag marks in the fabric, in the fore and aft direction versus open and close direction. I sent pictures to the Oliver Service department, and was told that I would need to take the trailer to a Service Facility for a Dometic Rep to take a look. (That was actually an error, as I found out that I could have communicated with Dometic myself.  Camping World merely took pictures and sent them off to Dometic.)

    Dometic denied my claim! They claim that I only had 30 days to make such a claim vice the one year warrantee that is stated in the awning documentation.

    The awning has only been opened two times that I know of. Once by me, and once by Camping World (who agree that the defect was Dometic's fault, and should be covered by warrantee.) I saw no rush to get the awning looked at since I had documented the defect, and did not intend to use the awning again until the fabric was replaced.

    This coming week I will raise the issue with Oliver Service and see it they will intercede with Dometic for me. If that fails, I intend to lawyer-up an sue Dometic under Washington State law, which is pretty specific as to warrantee issues.

    No wonder Oliver dumped Dometic. Even United Airlines has better customer service than Dometic...

  8. 4 hours ago, NCeagle said:

    Here's a propane-dependent solution I'm implementing to warm problem areas along the curb-side basement.  I have found that by default, the street side basement runs about 10 degrees cooler than the curb-side basement when the furnace is on.  The difference increases as the outside temp decreases.  My simple goal is to balance the basements in order to protect the street-side plumbing.  It's not particularly difficult to run another HVAC line down the curb-side and it takes advantage of the existing furnace.  

    First, I just used a T connector on the back side of the furnace and tied into the line that goes up to the curb-side all the way to the bathroom.  Here's a picture.  I'm going to install a manual damper inline so I can restrict flow as needed.


    I then removed the flimsy plastic walls on the side and rear of the basement to make room.  Here's the view looking into the basement from outside after removal:


    You can see the plumbing running along the back bumper area.  This area runs a few degrees cooler than the street-side basement, so it's important to get some heat here as well to prevent freezing.  I used 4" dryer duct to run along the back bumper plumbing.  Then it's reduces down to a 3" solid duct that runs along the basement roof out of the way.


    Here goes the 3" duct through the basement wall (pvc board) into the street-side basement:


    Here's the final picture for now, looking from the back of the trailer towards the front (you can see the inverter on the right).  I ran out of time yesterday so I just terminated the connection inside the street-side basement.  It's super easy to finish running the 3" duct the rest of the way up the black tank drain pipe to where the footwell for the dinette is.  I'm going to put some strategically placed holes along the duct now in order to balance out the temps on both sides at something reasonable.


    Still need an all-electric backup, but I feel like this is a good start.  Easy, quick and takes advantage of the existing components.

    Wow! Your "easy" is several orders of magnitude beyond mine.

    What a great job!

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  9. 20 hours ago, NCeagle said:

    Thanks for sharing this information on your various temps.  I also have 5 temperature probes and have noticed the big temperature differentials between the curb side basement where the vent / heat are located and the street side which has nothing and therefore colder temps.  I tried leaving a top partially off on that are to see if any air would be sucked in when the ducted heat was running but that didn't happen.

    So I've been thinking about this too and I was leaning towards putting 2 small vents under the dinette seat and street side bed with some DC fans (like computer fans) to pull air in from the "warm" cabin.  Along with a switch, I'm also considering attaching a thermostat underneath so they come on automatically when the temp gets below 40 or so in the basement.  I put a small fan above the partially opened top cover of the street side basement and the temps warmed up considerably so in theory fans should work.

    There's also enough room in the street side basement to add another layer or two of reflectix on top of the installed stuff (which is very thin reflectix).

    I'm just curious, what made you decide on small 100w DC heaters?  I guess it's like running a 100 watt incandescent light bulb in each basement - will that be sufficient?

    I chose 100W heaters as a function of maximum load (three heaters, or 300W). That wattage at 12 volts equals 25 actual amps. I think even that amount of load will seriously deplete my battery bank by dawn on a really cold night. Hopefully the combination of my Honda 2200 for 3 to 4 hours the next day, PLUS the solar will allow full recovery. I will have the option to run one, two or all three heaters as needed/possible.

    I cannot see any way to get more reflectix between the two water lines and the lower hull on the drivers side... (Bummer!)

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  10. I just posted a similar story...

    Disassemble your trailer 7 pin connector. The moisture and corrosion is on the back side of the plug, not the front side. You are going to find a mess. Clean it up. Add a bunch of dielectric grease and put it together again.

    LED lamps have a very low "light off" voltage. Leakage which you would have never seen with old style lights will show up early with LEDs;.

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  11. On 9/23/2020 at 2:58 PM, John E Davies said:

    I have two sets of heavy chains that I could use to get around in a disaster, or drive through bottomless mud, or Snowmageddon, when you have to get the gal in labor to the hospital, no matter what, through two feet of unplowed snow. With studless snow tires I have never actually had to use them on my Land Cruiser 200. But OTH I am not towing a brand new $65,000 three ton trailer over slick winter roads.



    Hi John:

    Skill counts for quite a bit. I watched a friend bring his 1 ton Ford towing a 15,000# toy hauler work his way down the east side of Waconda Pass into Republic on 4 to 6 inches of compact snow and ice. (A lot of ice!) West side of Waconda was snow free.  He thought he was in 4 wheel drive. Turns out his truck was lying to him. The front auto-lock did NOT lock up his front wheels. His voice was getting squeeky by the time we rolled into Republic, but he made it. I was very comfortable with my Oliver and 1/2 ton Ram in 4WD


  12. Just a simple data point: During the second half of a recent hunting trip the temperatures averaged 24 degrees at night. In 6 days I used 7 1/2 gallons of propane for the RV heater, and only 2 gallons of propane to run the Honda 2200 for 3 hours every night. I have the Hutch Mountain conversion.

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  13. In late October this year I took my Elite II Oliver (Hull 615) to Republic, Washington for Elk hunting. There was 2 to 6 inches of snow on the ground and temperatures of 8 degrees F at night, and highs of 22 degrees F during the day. I stayed in an RV park so as to have AC power readily available. I have a 5 probe digital temperature system installed in my trailer. Probe #1 is near the propane tanks, #2 is under the forward dinette seat, #3 is under the drivers side bunk, #4 is under the passenger side bunk, and #5 is attached to the spare tire. (Note, numbers 2, 3, and 4 are as low is I could get them.)

    During my first night I noted that #2 temp was at 28 degrees, #3 was at 22 degrees and #4 was at 38 degrees. The "ducted" heat kept ONLY the starboard side of the trailer above freezing.  I put small AC heaters under the dinette seat and under the port side bunk. After that, all internal temps stayed above freezing. The drivers side bunk area never got above 36 degrees, even with the 300 watt heater.

    Having foreknowledge of the expected temperatures, I pumped 8 oz of pink antifreeze into all 3 of the exterior water fittings. I then wrapped the fittings in pipe insulation. I believe that I had not done that, all three fittings would have frozen and cracked. I completely forgot about the exterior shower, but evidently lucked out as there has been no leak so far.

    I intend to purchase 3 each 100W DC heaters, and install one under the forward dinette and 2 under the drivers side bunk. There is a spare fuse for the drivers side awning which I will use to wire all three heaters through. Have not decided where to put the switches yet.

    NOTE: Pulling the Olly over salt covered roads can cause a real mess inside the RV 7 pin plug. Oliver service talked me through a very strange set of symptoms, but a set they knew quite well. Symptoms were - with trailer in a camp, no AC connected, occasionally the outside lamps of all 4 of the trailer running light/turn signal assemblies would come on (very dimly). The would stay on until late at night when the battery charge fell below 12.6V. Then they would go out. Service said "it is stray voltage from your 7 pin plug, take it apart, clean it and put some dielectric grease in there." When I took it apart it was so corroded that I replaced the 7 pin plug. Remember, this trailer was delivered to me last March (2020).  Service told me that they have switched to a molded 7 pin plug to prevent recent trailers from experiencing this problem.

    The exterior of the plug looked pretty good, but the interior was a mess!



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  14. Your idea works great John. Thank you!

    BTW, when my unit was delivered to me here in Washington, one of the 4 black wing nuts securing the solar panels was within two threads of falling off. One of the remaining three was merely touching the lock washer. I did as you recommended and drilled one end of each wing nut for the use of zip ties to keep the wing nuts from backing off.

    Zip ties are sure easier to apply and remove than the "safety wire" I had to use when I was a USN Aviation Electronics Tech!


    Bill Simons

    Oak Harbor, WA

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  15. Stand by for sticker shock if you have to buy Marinco products. The standard joke in the local boating community is that if it is "yellow" it has to come with a 100% mark-up because it is "Marine Grade" just from being yellow! I bought a 50' Marinco cable because the local West Marine store just wanted it to heck out of their store (heavy, big, took a lot of shelf space, had it for two years, etc.). The gave me a smoking good price, like half off! I then cut it up and made-up the sections and connectors I needed.

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  16. On 5/10/2020 at 10:05 AM, John E Davies said:

    What do you plan for that area below the steel tray? Access appears to be limited - it appears to be about a 6 inch gap. It would be great for wood blocks, if you can reach back far enough.

    - I have only tested for 2x8 in one foot pieces, and 4x4 in eight inch pieces. Pretty much takes anything I would want to tote there!

    What was your reason for keeping the Oliver tray rather than just mounting the new tray directly onto the tongue, (to save a little weight and lower the generator)?

    - I wanted the tote space. The generator box height was a concern, so I made a cardboard mock-up and tested the idea on my boss. (She said it looked great...)

    Are there drain/ debris holes in the bottom of the Ollie tray so gunk doesn’t get trapped there?

    - There is a 3/8" drain hole in all four outside corners of the storage unit.

    Do you plan to make a dust cover for the generator box? It is a pretty messy location normally.

    - The box is water tight, and I have made it Yellow Jacket tight by pop riveting bronze screen over all the vents. I am going to wait and see if I have to come up with a dust solution...

    Please post a followup report after using your generator for a while. Thanks.

    - It is going to be a couple months before I tow the unit. I am determined to wait-out the idiots in Seattle/Olympia who objected to $35 Tabs (for the 4th time now). I will register/license the unit once the courts get off the dime and make a decision. Or.... if the lock-down goes away, once I get bored out of my skull.

    Bill Simons in answer to John Davies


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  17. 1 hour ago, Overland said:

    Nice write up, thanks!  

    Does the box provide any sound attenuation?  

    Nope, the box is essentially light weight diamond plate aluminum with 3 Deck Hatches and a door. The base plate is 1/8" steel. I put two layers of vibration isolating material between the generator and the trailer. (I had not intended to, that was just the way things worked out!)

    It would not be a problem to apply  the "one side sticky/other side foil"  (and expensive) sound attenuation material that stereo installers use, but it would add about 10 to 15 pounds of weight. Three campers ago we owned an Arctic Fox 29' fifth wheel. The generator was located directly below the bed... I applied $120 dollars worth of that stuff in an attempt to be able to sleep with the generator running. It did not work unless you were really, really tired!

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  18. There are so many great projects on these forums that I felt obligated to document mine (partly so that others can avoid my mis-steps!).

    We dry camp the majority of the time. During the winter (until the snow flies) that is not a problem, but summer time on the Eastern side of Washington State can be uncomfortably hot. When we bought the Ollie we knew that the solar system would take care of most of our needs, but that we really wanted a generator capable of running the A/C. We specified the optional soft start add-on for the A/C so that the trailer would be ready. A bit of research showed that the new Honda 2200 would run the A/C, even if it was running on propane.

    We chose “Hutch Mountain” as the best propane conversion for the Honda 2200. After 10 years of putting generators into and out of the truck I knew that some kind of generator carrier attached to the trailer was a must-have. We chose “Generator Box” as they have one sized perfectly for the Honda 2200. I asked Hutch Mountain if they would do their magic by installing all needed gear inside a Generator Box. They said they would be glad to do so. I had “Generator Box” directly ship the box to Hutch mountain. They did an install and then shipped to us. Perfect !! I did the install of the Hutch Mountain conversion kit into our new generator. BTW Honda service centers get very twitchy about propane conversions. There was/is a recall of a circuit board in the 2200. My local shop will do the recall, but will not even start the generator afterwards. I may have to school them about modifications NOT invalidating an entire warrantee. In my case the engine is now out of warrantee, but the generator section is still fully covered (federal law on this subject is well established).

    We bought the storage box on our Ollie. I wanted to save as much space in the box as I could for lightweight things, so I designed a frame to support the Generator Box. I initially intended to have the box dropped down into the storage unit by about and inch and a half. That was a bad idea as the latching assembly which secures the box to the mounting plate will not operate with more than about 3/8” of drop below the edge of the storage box. I used aluminum flat stock and 70 durometer Sorbothane to raise the box and give a little vibration dampening.

    Parts list, purchased or modified by me:

    Honda 2200 Companion generator to get the 30 amp locking connector

    5 feet of aluminum 2” C-channel, ¼” wall thickness

    5 feet of aluminum 1½” angle

    10 1” SS ¼” x 20 screws with NyLock and two flat washers each

    6 1½” SS ¼” x 20 screws with NyLock and two flat washers each

    30 1” SS 10x32 screws with Nylock and 2 flat washers each

    I made a 69” section of Marinco 10 ga power cord

    Hutch Mountain made a 69” connection hose to hook-up the front end trailer propane supply to the Generator Box quick disconnect.


    Pictures follow…


    Any questions, please ask!


    Bill and Dorothy







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