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georgelewisray

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Posts posted by georgelewisray

  1. Same/Similar on Hull#751 Touch lights over galley. stove light is flickering as I type and sink started just cutting off after few minutes just days ago.

    One of my couple gripes with Oliver is NOT having a BOM ( Bill of Materials ) to assist in finding operating, trouble shooting and replacement parts ordering information.  

    Dang Flickering LIGHT !!  I may have to get out some flashlights and shut off master cabin light switch for sleeping.

     

  2. UPDATE: Senior Moment, I thought the spring rise was the unweighting of the coupling.

    Just turned 70 and seems this was senior moment….. We are towing with Toyota Tacoma and there is significant settling of rear suspension due to tongue weight. I was confusing the lifting of the hitch ball with unweighting of the hitch ball. Totally different RIGHT. ……  I went out for a final look over and last try. It came to me in a flash. I let hitch continue to rise and VOILA !!!!  The helpful generosity of all responders will not be forgotten and I will pay it forward as I am able. Thanks again 

    *******************

    ORIGINAL POST:

    Both hitching and unhitching have been difficult. The hitching process needs the ball located slightly away from the swing gate opening else the gate will not shut and just that inconvenience makes me question why the bulldog coupler is desirable when the old standard couplers are more forgiving when hooking up . UNHITCHING has been the worst. Most often the trailer jack lifts the truck . My current thought is to carry a pry bar that will shift the ball off the shelf and towards the open gate just as the down force of coupler switches to upward lift.  ............. looked all over the web and cannot find any complaints so it is either this particular coupler or it is me. Seems like it’s probably me that is missing something ????  Don’t have a suitable pry with us now so the trailer will stay behind the truck till we get home. It has been challenging to unhook every time since pickup at factory and fortunately this is the last stop of this trip and we can manage w/o disconnecting.  Tempted to switch to same old coupler I have used for last 50 years, never a problem?

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  3. NCEagle:

    Clearly what are are doing is useful and I too have been concerned about the system being configured for batteries 100% charged 100% of the time . . . not good!

    Trying to understand how your experience of "disable charging" matches the Xantrex description of this setting. Xantrex documentation seems to describe this parameter disabling the total system to eliminate battery drain (makes sense) , BUT if all of the Oliver AC panel (except microwave) is supplied by the Inverter then the inverter must stay operational.   . . . . . Nice to think that future generations of Lithium-Solar-Inverter types will benefit from the trials and tribulations of those that came before.

     

     

    Xantrex XC Pro Parameter #26 says "see description on page 43 , so here is a page 43 screenshot.

    585728680_ScreenShot2021-06-18at3_56_28PM.thumb.png.52186336857ef6d9599fb20d98a56a55.png

    • Thanks 1
  4. WRINKLE UIPDATE ::

    (1) We have similar wrinkles when rolling up after full awning extension in hot sun. Hot Sun and dark thin vinyl coated fabric >> wrinkles  . . . . Who Knew ???  and so it seems I was wrong about it being an installation tensioning issue.

    (2) Fabric: The dark brown fairly thin seeming vinyl coated fabric used on our Girard GG750 is nothing like the Sunbrella by Raven Mills that I have been around constantly over many years of sailboat deliveries.  I am encouraged to hear about more suitable/heavier fabrics and at some point we may upgrade to end up with a truly useable awning. Oliver in this case is just following industry common practice so in my mind, in this case they are off the hook and I will not grumble in their direction. I do wonder about ZipDee awning as a possible superior option. Airstream has stuck with ZipDee for decades and decades.

     

  5. Awning Wrinkles:

    Suggest contact Girard :: " May I please speak to someone in technical support"

    No good reason to have such wrinkles . . . . fabric was not pulled tight when installed on/in the roller.

     

    To try and understand what's up . . . 

    See excerpt below from pp43 of manual for our Girard GG750 , which is the cheaper of the 2021 Oliver awnings. 

    Note that the fabric on the GG750 is apparently different from the fabric on the fancier model.

    Different Awning Issue: Our fabric is bagging and because of the water ponding it so far seems nearly unusable in any rain at all unless extended fully so as to better drain, which is scary with out a method to secure/support in case of wind gusts. It was my fondest hope that the awning could be used in the rain when extended about 3 to 4 feet of the 7 ft total extension but even with such a modest extension it creates heavy ponds that stretch the fabric and when it is rolled in the pond dumps right at the front door. I need to call Girard 'tech support' myself and have my expectations calibrated.

    *********************************************

    Awnings: 949-259-4000 . 800-382-8442 

    The Girard Group
    1361 Calle Avanzado 
    San Clemente, CA 92673

    *********************************************

    Manual for GG750 Girard pp43

    C. INSTALLING THE NEW FABRIC
    IMPORTANT: REPLACEMENT FABRICS ARE 
    ROLLED AND FOLDED FOR SHIPMENT. THE SEAMS MUST FACE DOWNWARDS AS THE FABRIC IS INSTALLED. THERE IS A SMALL WHITE POLY (POLYESTER) ROPE INSERTED IN THE FABRIC THAT WILL SLIDE INTO THE LEAD RAIL.

    1. The old fabric's trim insert will need to be removed from the roller tube, it is held on by clear tape along the length of the tube and black duct tape on each end. Take note of how the trim insert sits in the channel of the tube as the new fabric trim insert will need to be inserted correctly and then taped in the same fashion as the existing insert was attached.

    2. With the new fabric attached to the tube, roll up the fabric as even and tight as you can in the correct direction. (The fabric should roll from the bottom of the tube when the awning is extending) Slide the tube with the motor and fabric assembly back into the case of the awning as it came out. Confirm the non motor side of the roller tube is correctly in the bushing that is mounted on the non motor side endplate.

    3. Repeat steps 1-10 of motor installation section B.

    *********************************************

     

     

    80194661_ScreenShot2021-06-17at8_07_03PM.thumb.png.72e824123e760272657e37afe957061a.png

     

     

     

     

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  6. Elite II #751, Lithium-Solar

    Setup of Xantrex: XC Pro 3000 ( probably same for 2000 ),

    - I am using the Xantrex Bluetooth app on iPhone. ( launch app and ?dbl/long press the top Botton 'ESC' till bars under L&R #'s on remote display  flash, then iPhone Bluetooth pairs with Xantrex remote >> you are off to the races. )

    - Owners Manual: pp71 'SETTINGS' :::  Numbers: 1-14, 20-24, 26-28, 99. ( can be changed either with the remote wall mount display or iPhone Xantrex app )

    Of particular Interest me are: ( purpose is to limit the amount power the Xantrex draws from external power sources )

    #24 Charger Current

    5-150 Amp -  ( The current setting value can be adjusted by 5A increments. )

    #28  AC Input Breaker for Load Share 

     5-50 Amp -  ( The load share feature prioritizes the AC load by reducing the charge current in order to maintain the total input current to less than the load share setting. )

    *************************************************************************

    We sometimes sit at end of a LONGgggg Smallll extension cord.

    #24 - Charger current setting at a lower value will prevent the Xantrex trying to draw 1800Watts (12V x 150Amp) thru a tiny long cord.

    #28 - AC Breaker for Load Share:  I set this to 13 Amp when running a Honda 2000 EU generator and it prevented wild voltage swings and red overload light flashing.

    >>>> My thought is that these features are valuable and helpful but are implemented and documented, . . . . . not as well as they might be.

    Some Older Xantrex and some current Victron inverter-chargers have a feature called 'Generator Support' which is easy to understand . . . when a generator is small or a shore power cord has low voltage or is long and small it balances the various energy input sources dynamically so as not to overdraw a weak source. In consumer grade equipment this is very much a new computer age type function.  . . . . To me this is the Holy Grail in inverter-charger functionality. This Xantrex XC Pro achieves some of this functionality but the way it is described/implemented it leaves me a bit confused. . . . . . 

    UPDATE: 6/18/21 after experiments

    Seems apparent that Xantrex XC Pro 2000 & 3000 are not able to provide what I think will soon be the 'new normal' for inverter-chargers, that is what sometimes is called "Generator Support". A small generator contributes what power it has available and the inverter uses that power and adds power from batteries as needed to supply demand. That is in stark contrast to a DUMB . . . 'switch to the grid totally' when AC is sensed with no judgment about the capability of the AC source.

    The Xantrex XC Pro can modulate charging current a bit to help prevent overload of a 'GRID' source, but when Xantrex XC Pro is 'ON THE GRID' , i.e. an AC is available, it is totally dumb about judging the capability of the AC source.   EXAMPLE:  If the Honda 2000EU is running providing 'GRID Power' and the HVAC is running I can adjust parameters #24,#28 and the generator is then operating within its capabilities and not overwhelmed by HVAC + Battery Charging . HOWEVER, as soon as I turn on the HotWater pot the generator is overwhelmed with 21Amp draw for HVAC & HotPot.  A Victron of some of the other older big Xantrex would sense that the generator was being overwhelmed and allowed the battery-inverter to supply demand and the limited generator to help as much a possible but not choke on the LARGE POWER DEMAND.

     

    • Like 2
  7. RV unsupported awnings . . . Trying to understand their strengths and weaknesses. . . . and next the proper adjustment.

    ***********************

    Elite II #751 - 2020 Girard Awning Model GG750 w/ 3 support arms.

    Oliver adjusted the angle of the street side awning at factory when we pointed out the angles did not match between street & curb. They decided the street side was the wrong/incorrect one . They ( Jason & assistant ) provided no advice or commentary about what was considered normal/proper.

    Recently , In a steady drizzle and with trailer level I extended the awning about about 3 feet to provide what seemed a wonderful dry protected place.

    A bit later I noticed the fabric ( Std model brownish ?vinyl? ) sagging and so reeled in the awning and the water in the sag pocket POURED right down on me standing in the open door. I was and still am unimpressed but have yet to sort out what to expect from this type of awning that seems to be the current standard in the RV industry,

    Years ago I had an old airstream with Zip Dee awning that had support arms. I did not use it much as the trailer and awning were both old and tired. However my recollection is that the Zip Dee would stay taut and sloped and so be just right to leave out in the rain ( wind is a different thing altogether but it does have support arms ).

    I have reviewed the install/service manual but have yet to wrap my head around the nomenclature/parts/process. 

    ************************************

    Notes:

    Fabric :: We have vinyl? on the standard powered awnings. Would not have been our first choice but when we were ordering, no where that I saw made clear the difference in the standard and deluxe regarding fabric.

    Manual Version :: Girard makes a manual version but my impression is that the shape of the Oliver does not permit access for the turning handle to connect into the bottom of the end cap of the awning. Not sure how this is different on older Oliver awnings with manual operation.

    *********

    B. MANUAL OVERRIDE  -  1. In case of motor issues, the GG750 has a manual override to close the awning. 

    2. Remove the endcap opposite the motor, by removing the 3 Philips head screws.

    3. Usinga13mm wrench,turn the manual override shaft in order to close the awning, see Figure 10.

     - - -  The manual override is one-way, it can only close the awning.

    *********

    IMG_0627.thumb.jpg.6f090df151ba23f128db029c61611575.jpg

  8. 5 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

    Here is a link to the Xantrex site with links to firmware updates.  

    https://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-xcpro.aspx

    What am I missing ???

    There is: (a)  an Active Link to the document that describes the Firmware Update Process. (b) A Dead Link supposedly to the firmware but the link text just reads 'www.xantrex.com'. . . . That was where I was when I sent a query to Xantrex Support and got a slightly-helpful response. I was expecting a link to a page that would show me Firmware revision history and download links to the latest firmware versions.

    What I got:

    Hello George, 
    They are there but I do find that it is taking longer to load than I would normally expect. I'm copying the files into this email. 
    Please read the instructions file before proceeding
    Shaun, Xantrex Technical Support
    1(800)670-0707

    and a zip file  containing 'perhaps' the latest firmware for ????

    ********************************

    So from what am I missing ?

    In 2008 Xantrex was bought by Schneider Electric, based in Rueil-Malmaison, France.

  9. NEWER Bluetooth Xantrex Controller in our EII.

    Bluetooth app (iOS & android // we-r-ios) is rather handy/powerful. Allowed me check firmware versions of controller and inverter/charger ........... and to set max charging current to a low enough value that running on long small extension cord is possible w/o excessive voltage drop.

    Hull#751 , 2021

  10. XANTREX ::  There is a very helpful app that talks to the Bluetooth control panel and is avail for IOS and Android. ( We are IOS)

    The app allows easy monitor and control AND CHECKING FIRMWARE REVISION # !!!! 

    I used the app to check Firmware versions and to set the max charging current.

    We are living at the end of long extension cord and by dialing down the MAX CHARGE CURRENT using the APP , we easily live without big voltage drops. Voltage as seen by the Progressive Elec Monitor panel the shines ever so BRIGHT RED thru the attic window every night so that when we go to sleep we must stuff a pillow case over it so we can sleep in the then almost dark considering the many little LED panel lights the Oliver is blessed with. but we love it !

    XANTREX FIRMWARE :: I had no luck finding the Website firmware page/files/history/latest-ver etc in spite of the fact that the documentation indicates you just go to the web site and VOILA >> FIRMWARE . . . .   I sent a message using XANTREX contact form and got a somewhat confusing  and trying to be helpful but didn't help kind of reply and have not revisited that project yet.  Judging by the state of the XANTREX website, the confused SUPPORT page response and many out of date documents on the website . . .  the company is trying to save money on their Information Technology Budget.  I think the XANTREX is good enough but my impression is that if someone were in a position to choose vendors that VICTRON is a better choice. ( i.e. Victron Energy MultiPlus 3000 with AWESOME !!! power assist !!!! )

    Lots to sort thru . . . perhaps we can ALL at some point virtually sit down together and crowd source a QuickStart guide to the many and complicatedly delightful wonders of our modern Olivers !

     

     

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  11. GREAT idea, having an option to use the 'space between the hulls' as an HVAC plenum and thereby assuring the TANKAGE/PIPES will not freeze ! . . . . .  It is worth mentioning that as long a Oliver continues to take very little or no care to clean the interior spaces, the living beings in the heated space using the air that traveled thru the 'vast dustiness' will potentially be exposed to rather high levels of FG Dust which will end up being 'Breathed/Worn/Eaten'.

    Next week we will be emptying the trailer and using big air extraction equipment/ducts, HEPA vacuums and attempting to vacuum/blow/sweep and damp wipe the the construction dust/debris that the factory left behind. We will provide 8x10 glossy photos with circles and arrows to Oliver in hopes that 'those who come after' don't have to Endure/Breath/Wear/Eat FGDust.

  12. Statement in title appears in the 2021 & 2020 Owners Manual but NOT in 2019 and not in 2018 Owners Manuals and I would guess not in earlier manuals.

    Seems to conflict with the following statement which is in the same 2021 and 2020 Owners Manuals.

    " USE ANTIFREEZE SUITABLE FOR DRINKING WATER SYSTEMS. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH!!! "

    ***********************************************************

    In 2018 Manual  the following statement appears . . . 

    Note: Always fill the tank with clean drinkable water from a known safe source. Make sure to cap the water inlet when the tank is filled. Also, always fill system with a hose that you know is clean and is used only for this purpose.

    Any thoughts? . . . . . . . . .Legal Department stuff ?  , BPA in tank plastic ?

    I was not looking for trouble, just minding my own business searching for FW tank draining info when I stumbled on this statement and it stuck me as odd.

    *************************************************

    Screen Grab of 2021 Owners Manual page with the statement.

    5C130FA0-32F5-4814-AE51-834F2436B9A3.jpeg.eb660b3718602abfb12f96bac2a20ff2.jpeg

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  13. Still thinking about unused Black Tank: ( EII #751 w/ composting )

    Motivated by dreams of extended stays at places with few or no facilities.

    URINE STORAGE ::: People generate LOTS of urine but 18 gallons of urine storage would last a while . . 

    BLACK KITCHEN WATER STORAGE :::  We are trying to control the quality of the water in grey tank to make it less noxious/intrusive/nasty so as to facilitate disposal into the environment when necessary/possible.  The water in kitchen is going into small dishpan in sink where fats/oils are broken down with soap and solids/particulates settle out before liquids go down the drain .  BLACK TANK is a great place for the stuff that is messy, chunky and stinky and with care 18 gallons of storage could last for a while . .

    ************************************************

    ACCESS to BLACK TANK:

    OLD Original idea was: ( complicated flat drain box under composter that used regular toilet drain flange-pipe assemble )

    (a) lift compost toilet 

    (b) Install std toilet hardware (flange w/pipe and sealing bushing into plastic tank top)

    (c) construct somewhat complicated flat hollow base under compost with inlet ports to side of composter that sets on top of std flange and under composter /// weird-wonky and raises an already tall composter . . 

    ----------

    NEW Improved idea from Jason is: ( small pipe into top of black tank set near bathroom wall with some funnel/cap thing at top of pipe )

    Talked to Jason at new owner pickup time and asked to purchase the parts used to plumb the std toilet so as I could proceed with OLD ORIGINAL IDEA and his suggestion was (a) a new hole in fiberglass floor (b) enter black tank top with same type rubber-ish sealing bushing but do this off to the side ?somewhere? and thereby avoid the rather complicated construction and future cleaning/sealing issues of the OLD Original Idea shown above. 

    So , (i) identify the pipe-in-hole sealing bushing type/name/mfg like that which Oliver uses in std toilet install and then check available sizes, (ii) measure/find black tank under floor to evaluate possible placement of new pipe (iii) figure out details of pipe size/location/top fittings-funnel-cap-?trap or notrap?-mounting/bracing/prettyness . . . stuff. (iv) start using the black tank.

    -----------

    Any thoughts appreciated.

     

    • Like 1
  14. Thanks to all who have thought about and raised the issue of Electrical System-Documentation. 

    We love Hull#751 but there are a lot of challenges that I attribute to "Production Hell" as Elon Musk said about Tesla ramping production.

    I am spending a lot of time fixing, cleaning and chasing documentation which I expect from Harbor Freight but not from Oliver. Hopefully the trials and tribulations of us 'Early Adaptors' will pave the way fora brighter future for those who come after. 

    Keep up the good work. . . . . meanwhile I have to go back to tracing down the lack of power to both the fans and wondering about the quick connectors being used.

     

    IMG_0191.jpg

    IMG_0194.jpg

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  15. On 1/30/2021 at 5:38 PM, Neuman's said:

    high tech paints commonly used in the marine trades and professionally done sprayed two part urethane paints will out-shine new gel coat.

    Neuman's comments are 'right on the money'.

    Gelcoat on boats (same as Oliver) commonly can be buffed and waxed to like new for easily 25+ years. The next step is painting with something like AwlGrip or AwlCraft and your ready for next 20 years.

    • Like 1
    • UPDATE :: The RubberMaid containers can be used several different ways to make temporary doggy bed . . . . Thanks!

    I got the distance between hallway walls ( aprox 29")  using the 3D Tour measurement tool and cross-checking/verify by looking at width of Std Layout table ( 29.75") which is wider than opening so as to be supported in the edge groove/slots. My first attempt to use the 3D measure yesterday yielded a 25" measure but that was at bottom all the way back where corners are all curved ???? 25" to 29" ????

    ****************** end update *************************

    VERY Helpful . . . BUT I am still not seeing the floor width below the rails toward the back of the 'hallway' between the twin beds in the Measurement Index ??  Using the 3D Tour very very cool measurement tool I got 25.25" width of 'hallway' but I was hoping to verify that.  If the 25" is correct our "RubberMaid RoughNecks" could be made to work for the pickup and drive home.

    We are trying to plan what will probably be a temporary platform between twin beds all the way in back. The old heavy duty 'Rubbermaid RoughNeck' storage containers have been our go to storage modules for many years and perhaps they will fit/stack/step to make a platform. [ RubberMaid: Low_8.75" height and High_16.75" height , TOP VIEW, they are both  24" wide and 16" deep ]

    ***************************************

    From Elite II Measurement Index:

    ( I must have been an Umpire in a past life (i.e. Have eyes but see'st not )

    Distance Between Twin Bed Rails - 18-1/2”

    Twin Bed :: Top of Bed Rail to Floor - 18-1/2 ,  Rail Height - 3-1/2” H, ( so floor to bottom of rail is 15" )

    ***************************************

  16. This picture is me ( Rosie Dog ) dreaming about the OTT EII we will be picking up very soon. ( early March 2021 )

    My people friends ( George & Marybeth ) are trying to imagine what my sleeping arrangements will be and could use a couple of measurements that were not to be found in the Oliver University Measurement Document. I had a nightmare the other night that instead of being with my pack sleeping in a warm cuddly pile I was outside chained to a picnic table. Makes realize how lucky I am that while too many of my kin folk have to endure such challenging and sometimes dangerous conditions , I stay warm and cozy.

    ( I am 16lbs and 13 yo so while I don't need a big space to sleep, I do need help/ramp/steps getting to high places )

    Here are the helpful Measurements:

    (a) Width of floor at Beds:  ?? about 25" ??

    (2) Width between Bed Rail: ?? about 18" ??

    (iii) Height to underside bed rail: ??

    (IV) Height to top of Bed Rail: ??

    IMG_9179.JPG

  17. We have fallen in love with the Lynx Leveling blocks and chocks. A pkg of 10 flat blocks that stack and interlock and a couple chocks that have the same interlocking fit. There seem to be a couple of popular brands but since we did our first 10,000+mi with the Lynx and they worked so well, I guess we are now Lynx-for-Life.

    lynx level blocks.jpg

    lynx chock.jpeg

    • Like 2
  18. Mostly just what 'Jairon' said . . . . . . .

    When the power factor is one ( 1.0 ) the electrical load is using all the energy.

    In a DC circuit ( battery for example ) all the current that flow through the load does some measurable work. PF =1.0

    An AC circuit may be pure resistance PF=1.0 , like an old fashioned space heater that glows orange. Nothing tricky or weird happening there. All the electrons that flow through that resistance ( nichrome wire ) do work >> make heat & orange light and that's the end of it. 

    HOWEVER, when PF < 1.0 . . . like a running a motor which generates not only obvious work but also energy stored in the form of magnetic and electric fields. The energy sometimes BOUNCES around. It can actually come into your house get stored in the motor of your air conditioned as magnetic and electrical fields and then a fraction of a second later it bounce back out of the house thru the power lines it came in on headed back toward the power station then a fraction of a second later bounce back into the house and that is happening continuously when the power fact is less than one.

    WHO CARES? . . . the energy bouncing around goes thru wires and the wires have some resistance and they heat up slightly and that uses up some of the energy the power company produced to sell to you. So bouncing energy is dissipated, that is it uses up its potential to do useful work a little bit each time it bounces around. The lower the power factor the more bounces and the more wasted energy due to slight heating of every wire it passes thru. Residential users usually ignore this and power company just charges a little more to allow for the waste. HOWEVER, huge factories with big Big BiG BIG machines can generate really large amounts of wasted energy and they have to PAY FOR IT. In that case the company/factory will do electrical tricks to make the power factor of the factory be closer to 'ONE'. Tricks like adding inductors which store magnet energy or capacitors which store electric field energy and so avoid the really big bunches of energy bouncing really long distances on the power grid.

    *************

    In electrical engineering, the power factor of an AC electrical power system is defined as the ratio of the real power absorbed by the load to the apparent power flowing in the circuit,

    • Thanks 1
  19. (1) How difficult to future pull wires and piping/tubing ?

    (2) What standard wiring is put in place in all trailer builds for electronics options even if they are NOT purchased from 'Oliver Trailer'. . . . Helpful to know for owners that might need to do aftermarket install of some electronics ?

    ***************************

    - (1) I was wondering about asking for empty sections of PEX tubing to be left in place during the build as conduit for future installs of wire , tubing etc. / / / / Perhaps this is overkill as it might be just as easy for us to do ourselves.  . . . Any thoughts ? The stories about modifications and some pics and videos of the basement areas make it seem doable to run things in the basement. Wiring to the overhead / roof seems another story.

    -(2) Electronics Options: Cellular / WiFi / Antenna / Backup Camera   / / / / / / /  

    - - Looking at the current state of electronics both capability and cost it is no surprise to anyone that electronic things are changing quickly.  For example: WiFiRanger was bought recently  by Winegard and there are WiFi boosters in the Winegard lineup with integrated LTE cellular for a few hundred dollars. Keeping up with technology is a bit of a nightmare for a manufacturer and getting the most bang for the buck is challenging for the consumer. 

    e.g. $449 Winegard , ConnecT 2.0 4G2+ (4G LTE + WiFi Extender + Over-the-Air TV + AM/FM Radio) for RVs (WF2-95B)  ( 16" x 8" , 3.7 lb) / / / / / This shows up on Winegard website as 'NEW' and as 'Not Purchasable' so I am guessing it is the latest greatest and is on hold for virus delays or some such manufacturing hold up, but it shows what is around the corner. Seems like one $500 item to replace three Cell, WiFi, Antenna gizmos totaling about $2000+. BUT  . . the 3 gizmos are available right now even if they are a bit long in the tooth.

    ***************************

    POSTFACE: As we try to fill out our 2021 Build Worksheet . .  It seems that we have just missed the era of Wild West free-for-all factory custom modifications and are now somewhat locked into the standard configurations. It is understandable that as Oliver grows and services multiple markets each with their own regulatory systems they must to some extent standardize their products . Oh Well . . . So be it . / / / "Tell us again grandpa about when 'Oliver Travel Trailer' custom made this and that gizmo and modified such and such widget on 'Old Betsy' that we have known, loved and traveled in for all these years."

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