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Posts posted by katanapilot

  1. I love the LTV.  Wish we had known about them before we bought our Forest River MBS motorhome.  If we had, we probably would not have decided get rid of our FR MH and buy an Oliver (not yet delivered). The FR quality control was poor to non-existent, warranty service a cruel joke and build quality was poor - although probably average for mass produced RV's.  Hope the Oliver turns out to be a better choice for us. I do trust my Toyota tow vehicle a lot more than either the FR or MBS chassis.

    As to the spare tire on the LTV,  I thought there was a rack under the Sprinter chassis that will hold a spare?  It's not easy to access at least on our 2015 model. I know FR has removed the spare tire/wheel on the newer chassis - primarily to save weight since they are building MH's that only have a few hundred pounds of cargo carrying capacity. We tow a Honda Fit behind our MH and the MBS chassis handles it fine. I do all maintenance myself, although admittedly the complex and very expensive emissions system has given some folks fits.  Rear wheel sensors, too.

  2. 4 hours ago, carnivore said:

    I pull an E2 with a 2016 tundra and have done so comfortably for about 10,000 mi. I have pulled multiple trips to the CO mountains without issue. I carry a generator, fuel cans, a loaded cooler, and tools in the truck bed. I fill up my water tank and don’t use an Anderson hitch. I occasionally do 70-75mph on the interstate and so far have never experienced trailer sway on this rig. 

    The current incentives are causing me to toy with the idea of getting a new truck. Even though Fords and Chevys have a few more whistles and bells, At this point I will probably replace my tundra with a newer one  just because of how well the truck pulls the trailer.



    That is great to hear.  We also have a Tundra and will pick up our E2 some time in June.  I'm buying an Anderson from another Oliver owner who no longer needs it and will probably convert it to the larger ball.

    As to a new Tundra, I'm waiting to see what late 2021 brings with the next generation. Twin turbo V6 I hear, although I really like the Lexus designed 5.7 V8 we have now.

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  3. Hope this is not a sign of things to come.  We are supposed to take delivery on May 5. We are spending as much on our Oliver trailer as we did on our Mercedes chassis motorhome.  If quality control is slipping on the line due to COVID-19, then Oliver needs to shut down until this is under control.  I will not be at all tolerant of shoddy QC given our previous experience with our motorhome.

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  4. The Atwood Air Command a/c is much quieter. We replaced the Dometic (not a Penguin) on our MBS motorhone a few years ago. It is taller than the Penguin by several inches. It cools (and heats) well and has a lower current draw. 

    if the Penguin is too noisy, I’ll install a 13.5K btu (cool only) Atwood on our Oliver when we get it. It is about $700-800 to purchase. 

    Was the unit that John Davies has installed at the factory?

  5. Newer Honda models have a three position shutoff switch that allow you to shutoff the fuel and not the ignition.

    Probably not a popular opinion, but I’m going on a no China campaign (like the Champion Honda knockoffs).  Not achievable in the short term, but what has been unleashed on the world economy by the Chinese is unconscionable. I work for the airlines and we are being very quickly decimated. If you think we brought this on ourselves I will respectfully disagree. 

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  6. On 12/28/2019 at 1:39 PM, John E Davies said:

    Mine has an Atwood Air Command ac which is fairly short and I use 9’6” as a “No Go” number. I made a placard with this and the height of my TV with roof rack installed, and added it next to the rear view mirror, for easy reference.

    Keep in mind your trailer height will vary depending on the trailer load, tire pressure, the angle of the frame and also with any dips or rises in the road surface. A deep dip may throw the back way up when your TV rear tires drop into it. Always add a little extra clearance for insurance....!

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    John, did you replace your original a/c with the Atwood or did it come standard from the factory?  We replaced our Dometic on our motorhome with the Atwood and I've considered doing it on the Oliver.  In our case, the Dometic was so noisy, we couldn't eat at the dinette directly under the unit with it running. The Atwood was much quieter, cooled better, had lower amp draw and the fan speeds were noticeably different (low, med, high) - unlike the Dometic.

    The only thing I was slightly concerned about was the additional height of the Atwood versus the now standard low profile unit.

  7. We don’t get our Oliver until early May. Are you guys saying the Dexter axles are equipped with Chinese bearings? Have any of you installed bearing buddies or equivalent devices on your trailers? And I agree with John -  it’s unlikely a $5 bearing is a genuine made in USA Timken. I would be fine with most of the Japanese bearings too. 

  8. 3 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Thanks for the complement. I am anal as can be, and I was a General Aviation A&P for twenty years before retiring early to raise my kids. I could build an airplane, I still have the tools, just not the inclination.

    I was told more than once when working to back off, I was too picky - “good enough is good enough”. I should have worked for a corporate outfit with bottomless finances, shinier jets and floors, and a higher service standard. Tell me, as an airplane pilot, who do you want working on it, Mr Anal or Mr Good Enough? LOL.

    What is funny is that my daughter, who has no tech background at all, snapped up an admin position at  one of those places, a Spokane based aerial firefighting outfit.


    Have you ever considered flying tankers?

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Great picture!

    No, I'm a little too risk averse for that.  I have a neighbor that flies the smaller ones (single seat). He does that for fun and is a doctor the rest of the time.

    As mentioned, my hobby is building airplanes like this one -

    Sorry for the thread drift...


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  9. John,

    I can only assume you are an engineer or an A&P (or maybe both). Please take this as a compliment.  I'm an engineer by degree, airline pilot by trade, airplane builder as a hobby and future A&P when I retire in a couple years.

    Your attention to detail is impressive.  If you haven't built a plane, you should.

    Krea Ellis

  10. 8 hours ago, BackofBeyond said:

    That's most of us - Rebels - thus the Oliver... when a nice Forest River would do just fine. 


    Nope, have one and it's on the way outta here when the Oliver arrives.  Spending almost as much on the Oliver trailer as we did on the Mercedes chassis Forest River motorhome.  Not happy with the quality at all on the FR.  Frankly, not thrilled that some of the same components are being used on the Oliver, but at least it sounds like Oliver will provide real warranty service.  FR "warranty service" is a cruel joke.

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  11. I haven't done much towing with the Tundra - mostly an 18' utility trailer, so with the additional weight of towing the Oliver I wanted better front brakes. I could have installed the Tundra big brake kit or some other aftermarket setup, but they were all pricey.  I wanted new rotors anyway, the cost of the cryo treating plus shipping to me was reasonable. I ordered all the rotors online and had them shipped to 300 Below  (I had two other sets done at the same time). I am hopeful these will last longer and perform better, as that has been my experience with other "freeze-dried" rotors.

    Rotors were $50 each set to treat plus $100 to ship all three sets to me with insurance. So an average of $83 per set. I drive the truck about 7500-10,000 miles per year, but that may go up significantly when we get the Oliver, sell the motorhome and retire in 2 1/2 years.

  12. 4 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Would you mind explaining about the rotors and pads? I just don’t understand this.....


    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    The OEM rotors were starting to show some signs of warping.  I'm not a fan of turning rotors as it removes some of the mass and therefore the heat absorption capability - which leads to additional warping.  So I bought new OEM rotors and had them cryogenically treated. There is a good article here and in fact, was written by the firm that treated my rotors.  I had a couple of other sets done at the same time.  There are cryo rotors available directly for many models of cars and trucks - I just preferred to stay with OEM.

    As to the pads, given the slight warping of the original rotors, I had some concern that the old pads were not perfectly flat and would not provide even grip on the rotor - so I replaced them too. The rotor and pad replacement took less than an hour for both sides and I had never done them on a Tundra.  Very easy.  My old 4Runner - takes hours, since you have to pull the 4WD hubs to remove the rotors.

  13. I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax Platinum.  I know it's not the most capable, the most luxurious or the highest rated - but I love my truck and would not buy anything but Toyota. I think many people are partial to whatever they own, so take my review with a grain of salt. In 90,000 miles, the only issue I've had is a defective driveshaft.  It was a known problem and Toyota had a TSB for it . Fortunately I had bought an extended warranty (I don't normally do that) - so it covered the close to $2000 repair. If I had caught it earlier, Toyota would have paid under factory warranty. I replaced the rotors with cryo-treated OEM rotors at 85,000 miles.  The pads were still like new, but I replaced them anyway.

    What I don't like about the truck - Toyota's are expensive, the interior on mine is a bit "cheap" feeling, transmission could use a couple more gears, mileage is not great, would like a diesel (Toyota 1VD-FTV engine, not a Cummins TD).

    The normally bulletproof reliability is what sold me.  It's a pretty solid truck.  People love their Chevys, Fords and Rams.  I think the competition is better in most areas except overall reliability.

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  14. Got the list from Anita.  Thanks all.  I have a pretty good list of additional items that we carry on our Sprinter MH. I'll duplicate many of those things for the Oliver, plus items to support a pair of Honda EU2200i's when they are available for sale again.  Seems like a stop sale order has been issued once again for a recall.

  15. This is a very helpful post.  Oliver will do this work for you, but they charge about $250 plus tax for the installation.  They keep the 2" coupler.  Seems to me, there ought be a bit more credit since they will be able to bolt the 2" coupler on a new trailer, but so be it. I don't doubt there is an hour or so of labor to install this.

    The PDF of the hole layout is very helpful.  A 5/8" annular cutter mounted in a drill press and some cutting fluid ought to make quick work of drilling these holes. If you are worried about aligning the holes, you could probably go to 11/16" to take care of any misalignment.

    Planning to do this mod once I get the Oliver home.  Anyone have the part number of the 2 5/16" Bulldog coupler?

  16. Just a single data point.  We drove to Hohenwald for a plant tour expecting to order an Elite II with the larger, single bed.  After seeing both, we ordered a twin.  Our decision was based on the ability to get in and out of bed without having to slide off the end and probably disturbing the other person. I almost always get up once in the middle of the night.  It also looks like the beds will be easier to make and the trailer feels a little roomier with the twins. Our current motorhome has a queen bed in the back and you have to slide off the end to get in or out.

    We haven't taken delivery yet (May) so I don't know if we made the right call, but we have experience with the queen bed in our MH and decided to make a change with the Oliver.

  17. We swapped out our Dometic noise maker for an Atwood (now also Dometic) Air Command heat pump in our Sprinter based motorhome.  Best $800 we ever spent on the MH.  I did the install myself.  The Atwood is very quiet (especially on low), draws less amps and cools better than it's BTU rating implies. Unfortunately, it is a bit tall of a unit and I believe Dometic is slowly killing off the line.  It is no longer available in a white, ductless 15k heat pump model - or we would be installing one on our soon-to-be Oliver.

  18. Nice job on the mod to install the hatch.  As to fiberglass - honeycomb is very common, very strong and lightweight.  Cutting through it and then reinforcing where you cut through can be an issue.  I'm going through this right now with an airplane cowling.

    Now a question.  The option list shows a "backflow preventer" valve, which seems to be an automatic (electric) drain valve. Does anyone have one installed and does it replace the T-handle mechanical drain valve or does it serve some other purpose?  If it does, this would be another, albeit more complex, solution to continuous gray water drainage when hooked up (and I assume you could keep the drain door closed).

  19. Thanks for the replies.  Unfortunately there seems to be a race to the bottom as to RV components and there are limited choices at reasonable prices.  Dometic is on my list as one of the worst. I see some have modified their Oliver’s with compressor type fridges and things, but one of the reasons for us buying the Oliver was to avoid the excessive mods we had to do to on our MH to make it more reliable and comfortable. I really hope the Oliver will prove to be better than the MH. And yes, although I wish Denso made RV components and Lexus made RV’s,  I know they don’t!

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