Mcmac
-
Posts
15 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Mcmac
-
-
1 hour ago, John E Davies said:
You may have an airlock in the hose running to the pump. Normally a little air won’t hurt but a lot of air will cause complete loss of suction and pressure. The pump will run flat out and nothing else happens. You need to:
Close the valve going to the faucets.
Open the valve going back to the tank.
That will let the system flow freely, recirculating from tank straight back to tank with no restrictions, and should remove any air in the pump lines in a minute or two.
While you are in there, turn off the system and remove your pump strainer/ filter to see if it is plugged with plastic shavings (construction debris). It is just forward of the pump assembly. This is pretty normal at first. One owner found a kink in the suction line to the pump was blocked by those shavings, he had to use a wire object to remove them.
Good luck.
PS, please add a signature with your hull number, it helps us to understand what systems are installed, since there are evolutionary changes through the years. Also, if you want to easily use those valves, label the direction of flow and where the lines go, like this (Hull 218) - yours might be different. I am a little surprised that they don’t do this at the factory.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Thanks John... good info.
Mine is an early unit, hull 061. My pluming looks quite a bit different than the pic you've attached.
Your point thought about the airlock sounds like a strong possibility as it worked fine before pulling in the bleach and probably some air. I'll check it out, but it will be a few days before I get around to it.
Appreciate your suggestions.
Mike
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, AndrewK said:
Mike,
After putting the water valves in Boondocking mode to draw the bleach water through the rear port, did you change the valves back to the normal mode so, the pump pulls from the fresh water tank?
Andrew
Andrew,
Yes, put back into the normal mode where they were prior to pulling in the bleach.
Thanks,
Mike
-
Good afternoon folks,
We were able to take our new to us Ollie out this weekend. We received quite the surprise when we went to use the fresh water... it smelled bad... really bad.
So I googled and found that we needed to sanitize the fresh water tank. Followed the instructions and pulled bleach water in from the boondock port in the back. That worked fine. Following instructions, I ran the bleach water through all the faucets and then after 15 min attempted to drain the tank through the drain value. While a little bit of water would trickle out it was way too slow, so I closed the faucets inside and closed the drain value to normal up the system.
At this point, I thought I'd just open the faucet and cycle the fresh water into the gray water tank. Unfortunately, I now have little to no water pressure in either of the faucets or in the toilet. The water pump seems to be running fine.Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong or what may have happened to kill the water pressure?
Thanks for you help
Mike
-
On 1/20/2020 at 7:29 PM, Geronimo John said:
Recommend that you winterize the trailer for the winter trip. For your first trip, give yourself lots of extra time. Check when the last full running gear service was completed. I highly recommend you read John Davies posts about bearings and Timken seals. If you don't get a good answer about the condition, age and service history, go to Timken and buy new bearings and seals. Keep an extra set of seals for annual bearing maintenance as well. (All this is in John's posts.)
PS: Welcome to the Oliver Family! 🙂
Thanks John,
Good information and I'll check out Johns post regarding seals and bearings.
What I've been able to find out so far is the previous owner was good about keeping up on maintenance... was back at Oliver about a year ago for a check up and routine maintenance according to Oliver service department.
Mike
-
On 1/20/2020 at 4:41 PM, John E Davies said:
That is going to be a tricky drive in mid winter, are you going to stick to Interstate 5? Ever towed in snow?
Be safe and take your time coming back. Maybe hit some CA beach campgrounds on the way.
John Davies
Spokane WA
John,
Odds are that we'll be on I-5 coming over the Siskiyous where we'd encounter snow if there is any.
Probably not going to get to do much camping for leisure as I need to get back home for work as soon as possible. Just hoping we don't get a storm that week.
-
Thanks for the feedback John.
Mike
-
2 hours ago, djpinaz said:
I'm still a little green having purchased ours in October, but I feel like I've read every thread (although only retained a fraction of the information). Depending on timing and location, I'm happy to meet you when you're picking it up to answer any questions I can.
Darren
Thanks Darren,
Appreciate the offer. I'm thinking the weekend of Feb 14... but need to get an absolute confirmation first.
Mike
-
5 hours ago, djpinaz said:
Congratulations. We’re in Arizona (Mesa) and have a 2014, hull #62! If you need any assistance being so far away I’m happy to help in anyway I can.
I’ve asked someone at Oliver for a hull plaque a couple times and in spite of them saying they would send it I haven’t yet...
Darren
Thanks Darren,
I appreciate the offer for assistance... Odds are good that I'll have a question or two. Definitely excited to pick it up and start learning what I need to know to get the most out it. Going to be fun.
Mike
-
6 hours ago, John E Davies said:
Oops, I misread your NW to mean NE. Senior moment, I apologize. No offense intended, I just don’t like the crowds (and climate) on that side.....I have a sister who lives up on the hill 1 mile west of downtown Portland.
John Davies
Spokane Wa
Not a problem.... I don’t really care for it here either. I prefer your side of the mountains... which is a big part of us wanting to be able to hook up and get away. Initially, my plans were to sell and leave after I retire, but the grandkids have come (9 in 6years) and grandma is becoming reluctant to leave. I guess she can always come visit me : )
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Overland said:
For a 2014 model, the hull number will be the last 3 digits of the VIN, which you’ll find on a sticker on the front left of the trailer.
Congratulations on the new purchase!Thanks Overland. The only thing I’ve been given by the dealer is a serial number... hopefully that’s it. If so, this is #061. Thanks again for the quick reply.
-
39 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
Welcome. Oliver customer service sent out complementary gold metal Hull Number placards last summer to all owners, I believe. I put ours in the entrance above the main switch panel. So you might see one stuck somewhere. If not, send them an email with your personal info for their records, and ask for a Hull Number placard.
Where do you live? I am very fond of that half of Oregon. Not so much the Wet Side....
John Davies
Spokane WA
Hey John, we live west of Portland in Hillsboro. Thanks for the info on finding the hull number.
-
My wife and I are in the process of buying a 2014 Ollie Elite II which we found this weekend in Arizona. I’ve been looking at them for years, and wasn’t going to pick one up just yet, but when ran across the listing and saw that it had most of the upgrades I wanted, I decided what the heck let’s leap and join the Ollie family.
Still need to finish the buying process this week and then figure out how I’m going to pull off a last minute trip to the Phoenix area to bring it home.
I had a question for you all... you talk about you hull numbers... are these marked on the trailers somewhere?
Looking forward to reading the many posts here in the forum and learning as much as I can. This is our first RV... I’ve had a boat for 20 years however.
Mike and Deb
-
On 12/16/2019 at 8:55 AM, ctshort09 said:
Trailer: Elite II = Loaded trailer wt. 6250 lbs.
Tongue Wt: 630 LB => requires an Anderson Wt. Dist. HitchTow Vehicle: 2018 F150 4WD Super Crew with 3.5 EB & 3.55 rear end
Mods: Have a canopy and installed SUMO Springs for overload/squat reduction and they work.Tow Experience: Grade B+ ( I'm sure a 3/4 ton would be an A+)
Feels stable in all but the most extreme conditions.
3.5 Ecoboost has PLENTY of power due to turbo...but ....it has a turbo which can be a big ticket repair in future.
Mileage:
Towing from Tennessee to Everett (2500 miles) and in Western Washington have averaged 11 mpg overall.
In mountains typically got about 6-9 MPG, on Flats as high as 14 mpg.
Without the trailer but loaded with gear on the way out to pickup we got 20+ MPG on the highway.Most extreme towing scenario:
High wind gusts (50MPH) through I-90 passes in Montana last summer.
Felt a sideways wiggles and felt concerned for about 3 seconds, but the hitch + towing controls of F150 kicked in quickly.
I remember thinking...I wish the truck was heavier than the trailer during that situation.Truck Stats:
GVWR = 7000 lbs. Actual Curb Wt: 5200 lbs. Cargo Capacity: Calculated GVWR-Curb 1800 lbs
Door Sticker Cargo Capacity: 1557 lbs door sticker for tire rating.
Hitch: F150 Factory Installed Receiver/Hitch as rated below:
with Weight Dist. Hitch..... Max Gross Trailer WT Rating 12,200lbs has 1220lb Max Tongue Wt.
without Weight Dist. Hitch..... Max Gross Trailer WT Rating 5,000 lbs . has 500 lb Max Tongue Wt.
Hope this is a helpful post.
Hey Ctshort, did you install the Sumo Springs? I’ve heard good things about them and think this would be a good thing to install on our 2017 Tundra 1794. In the process of buying a 2014 Oliver Elite II, and plan on towing it with the Tundra.
Thanks,
Mike
Loss of Water Pressure
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks Scuba,
Yes, my plumbing looks like the older version you've posted. I'll have to look into the electric valves you're using. Looks like a slick way to change from "normal" to "Aux" mode. Thanks for the info.