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jordanv

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Posts posted by jordanv

  1. 1 minute ago, CRM said:

    I use a Dewalt buffer (DWP849X) with a cutting wool pad for heavy/medium compounding and a wool polishing pad for light compounding and waxing.

    For compounds and waxes I use the 3M "Prefect-it" system exclusively. After washing, if the finish is highly oxidized I'll start with wet sanding with 800-1000 grit paper, followed with their gelcoat heavy cutting compound, then light cutting compound + wax, and finish with the Perfect-it boat wax. If finish is not too oxidized I skip the wet sanding and heavy compound steps and start off with the light cutting compound + wax and finish with the boat wax.

    That sounds like more trouble than I am willing to get in! I plan to stay away from wet sanding.

    I guess I was interested if anyone had any videos to recommend on how to wash, buff, and wax a fiberglass trailer.

  2. On 9/28/2022 at 11:04 AM, dewdev said:

    hbschof:

    I wax over my decals.

    I have a 2018 Elite II and I have never seen any oxidation (like I would see in my past older boats) on the fiberglass but in the spring there is some dark water stains on the sides that come off the roof (I guess from dirt on the roof) after sitting all winter.

    A good wash lightens the  water stains and I then use the Meguiars 67 One step compound. A light application takes off the water stains very easily.

    I then put on a coat of the Flagship Professional Marine Wax. 

    Wax-Cleaner.jpg

    When using the compound / polish / wax, are y’all using a motorized buffer for this? 

    I’m trying to find a step by step process to do this. We’ve had our trailer for almost two years now and I’ve inly washed it once 🙀

    Its also been outside in the sun 🙀🙀

    After washing, it looked fairly shiny, but not nearly as shiny as day one. I guess there is a good bit of oxidation now. 

    Also after washing, it didn’t take long for the “green” to appear again on top.

    Im getting a friend to let me store it in their warehouse very soon, but before that I think I need to give it a good wash, polish, and wax. Just not sure or confident of the process.

  3. 7 hours ago, Sparklite said:

    We travel in our Elite 1 with an (almost) 2 year old.  

    Florida state parks are some of the best.  

    We stayed in Henderson Beach State park last year, and have reservations  at Dr. Julian G. Bruce St. George Island State Park this coming summer.  

    That’s awesome! Where are you based?

    • Like 1
  4. I just did the same! Although I miscounted 1 “L” fitting and one “T” fitting so I have 2 more to do. That being said, any of the connections that have come lose in the last year were replaced. (this has happened to us twice in less than 5K of miles on the road 😬)

    For such a nice trailer at such a high price, these should definitely one standard with brass fittings. They are even easier and faster to install than the plastic alternative anyway, could save a small amount of time at the factory. 
     


     

     

    76706757-CE9B-4AE6-9E17-5A743589EA36.jpeg

    • Like 5
  5. Am I misremembering, or does Oliver offer yearly checkups, maintenance at their factory?

    I have no desire to learn how to wax, reseal, change bearings, grease wheels, etc. I’m totally fine with all the inside fixes I need to do and have done, but I don’t have much free time for the outside stuff. 
     

    I thought I remembered hearing that you could bring the Oliver (for a fee of course) to Hohenwald to get these things done. Seems like it would make a nice trip as well?

    • Like 1
  6. In case anyone is interested. This company came inadvertently recommended to by Jason over at Oliver. The detailer he recommended uses their products so this is why I say inadvertently.

    I spoke with Christian on the phone, who can be seen in this video using Glidecoat's cermaic coat on a 12 year old RV.

    He recommends the 30' DIY kit and says that it is pretty simple to use. I mentioned to him my hesitancy about doing this DIY and he assured me that it would not be too difficult + would not need to worry if I also used this buffer, as it wouldnt be powerful enough to damage the Oliver clear coat easily: https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.htmls DIY

    Product link:

    https://www.glidecoat.com/product/rv-ceramic-top-coating-kit/

     

    The total price to do this DIY would be around 700-800 dollars including the buffer. Then, every 2-3 years it would require me doing the re-coating which he told me should not be as labor as intensive after the first round.

    • Like 5
  7. 1 minute ago, John E Davies said:

    I was on board until I got to this part. He is trying to rip you off.

    Well it didnt take long for me to figure this out either. I just spoke with Jason over at Oliver and he balked at that price as well. He said many customers have called asking about the cremaic / marine coat and he reccomends it if I can afford it. He said he has never heard of anyone paying that high. 2,500 was the highest he heard of.... the lowest price he heard was $750.

    He is kindly going to get me in touch with some possible connections here in Louisiana to get that job done.

    Thanks for the advice!

  8. So while researching the price of waxing our camper (I’m not sure I trust myself to do it) I was recommended by a local boat/rv detailer to put a marine coating on our trailer. 
     

    He said this coating would last at the very least 3 years, and would not require waxing, only requirement is the usual washing, and wiping down with a compound after. He mentioned that the wax eventually just melts off in our sun and heat here in Louisiana and has seen a lot of success with the marine coating. 
     

    His price was 3,600 which doesn’t sound terrible if it means I don’t have to wax. 
     

    Anyone have experience with this? Would this void our fiberglass warranty?

     

    What would you do?

  9. On 5/9/2021 at 8:20 AM, John E Davies said:

    take the weight off the suspension by raising up the trailer part way to “unload” it (this also happens when you remove the wheels and let the axles droop) - all the bushings will shift a little away from the bolts and maybe hopefully unblock the little grease hole in that bushing

    I really wish I would have read this forum post before trying to do this…

    I ended up trying to replace a couple of the zirk fittings because they wouldn’t take the grease when screwed in, but would when by themselves. 

    I even bought a device to “unstick” zirks. 

    All I needed to do was jack up that part of the trailer…

    well, you win some, you lose some


     

    • Like 2
    • Haha 2
  10. 19 hours ago, Gooey said:

    Did you get the Andersen?

    Yes, I got a used Anderson from a user on this forum and Oliver installed it (for a fee) when we picked up the trailer. 

    The hitch on the F150 states that a WD hitch is needed for anything over 5,000 lbs.

    We’ve already traveled about 2,500 miles with the Oliver and towing has not been an issue for us yet. We haven’t driven anywhere too hilly or mountainous other than our first two weeks in TN and the truck did well there. I’m eager to test it out in the desert and more mountainous areas of the US. 

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