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Pat Maundrell

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Posts posted by Pat Maundrell

  1. On 8/1/2021 at 10:52 AM, Pat Maundrell said:

    I've never been a big Fan of KOA's, (not sure really why) until recently. We were able to make reservations at three different KOA locations, last week easily. However, we had to cancel these reservations, because of a family emergency and reschedule at a locale KOA in Dayton Ohio, within 50 miles of home so we could stay in touch. I would rate the Dayton Ohio KOA, on a 1-10 scale a solid 10, we will go back!!!

    I want to expand on the above Post. 

    The thing we found really helpful and extremely easy to use was their Reservation System! Its been our experience that it is very difficult to find a Camp Ground opening anywhere because they are high demand, and all the reservation systems out there. The KOA system was easy to use and therefore easy to find a campsite, it worked great! If your not a KOA user now, I highly recommend it.

  2. I've heard a rumor of one couple that installed Single Window Awning on their Elite 2. We want to pursue this idea, on the Street Side as well as the Back Window! 

    Does anyone know of anyone that has actually done this or a company that they can recommend.

     

    Thanks Pat

  3. Our 2019 Elite 2 only has the Cube Side Manual Awning, we bought it used, so we didn't have a choice, glad it is a manual awning. However, if we did have a choice, I think we would order only the Cube Side.

    IMHO, the Cube Side Awning is as large/popular as it is on most RV's, principally because of it location/usage, i.e. Entry Door, Eating Area  out doors etc. On the other hand the Road Side Awning doesn't need to satisfy these areas, although they could have limited beneficial on sunny days. Most RV's, Trailer or Motor Homes use Single Window Awnings to block the Sun/Rain. The Single Window  Awning design has the benefit of not being as vulnerable to High Winds, I think they look better also! Additionally, the Single Window Awning has the added benefit of blocking the Sun/Rain from entering the Back/Front Windows, if so equipped.

    Hopefully, one day our Oliver will have Single Window Awning (Dark Blue) on the Street Side and the Back Window. I was researching these again just this week! As I mentioned earlier, we really like the Stylish Look of these as well as their functionality! 

    • Like 2
  4. On 7/23/2021 at 10:53 PM, trekhard said:

    Pat Maundrell, can you explain what you mean by the "feel of the front axle"?  

     

    We have a 2014 f150 3.5 Eco with Tow package.  What we feel is slight porpoising.   Is that normal?  Roads here in CO are very bumpy and just falling apart.  

    Sorry for the late response. 

    You asked about what I meant by the term "Feel of the Front Axle." You can think of it as the "Seat of the Pants Feel," that you can actually sense while driving down the road. I suggest that the next time you have your Oliver Hooked up, you experiment with the Hitch Adjustments. First, take a very short Road Test with the Hitch adjusted as normal and pay particular attention to the Feel of the Front Axle, i.e.  Tires/Axle! Now, loosening the Adjusting Nuts (1-2 turns) on the Chains and take another short Road Test , and compare the Feel you experience. You will probably feel a Light Sensation (less weight) on the Front Axle and may even notice a slight elevation of the Hood and a lowed stance of the back end of the TV. The difference in the FEEL, is the result of less weight being transferred to the Front Axle of the TV. Now, tighten the Adjusting Nuts 1/2 (one half turn) turn at a time, and  Road Tests again while noting the sensation you feel in the Front Axle. Do a couple of Road Tests and I am sure you will get the hang of it.The Ride should progressively feel more FIRM, I'd be surprised if you don't feel the WEIGHT actually being spread across both the Front and Rear Axles of the TV. Congratulations, you have just "Fine Turned" your RV WDH!

    • Like 3
  5. On our last camping trip the Maxx Air Fan quit 2 seconds after I turn it on, and the Green Light stayed on.

    Here are the details, I turned the Maxx Air on exhaust and  it started to open the lid, but then everything stopped. The Green Light stayed on but the Bath Fan stilled worked, both Fans are on the same circuit! I couldn't turn the Fan Off no matter what I did. Both the Fan Switch and the Remote Control didn't change anything, the Green Light just stayed lite! I searched the forum and the internet, but didn't find much help. I was almost at my Wit's End, when I decided to remove the Fan's Fuse (7.5 amp), in the Attic and replace the Batteries in the Remote Control to see what impact this would have.

    Much to my surprise, the Maxx Air Fan came back to life! I guess I rebooted the electronics.

     

    Any other thoughts. 

  6. I've never been a big Fan of KOA's, (not sure really why) until recently. We were able to make reservations at three different KOA locations, last week easily. However, we had to cancel these reservations, because of a family emergency and reschedule at a locale KOA in Dayton Ohio, within 50 miles of home so we could stay in touch. I would rate the Dayton Ohio KOA, on a 1-10 scale a solid 10, we will go back!!!

    • Like 4
  7. 12 hours ago, John Dehne said:

    Hello All,

    Anybody towing a Elite 2 with a Volkswagen Touareg TDI? How does it do? Thanks

    I would suggest that you consult the Touareg Club Forum for additional info on this subject, they have some interesting comments. However, as is generally the case there are lots of questionable statements. For example, Can you use a WDH? What is the Tongue Weight Capacity, etc? 

    We Tow with a GL 450 (gas), which does a good job.

    IMO, one of the "For Most Authority on RV Towing," is Andy Thompson at Can Am Airstream in Ontario Can. I suggest you ask him for his opinion, he done the research and testing and "Thinks Outside the Box."

    Please report back to us on what you find out!

     

    • Like 1
  8. We have a 15+year old Honda 2000 Generator and wouldn't be without it, originally bought to use with an Airstream we had. However, we haven't use it with the Oliver yet, but plan to.

    I wanted to install a Propane Conversion Kit, but it not available with my Honda's Serial Number, unfortunately to old. IMHO, Propane might be a more desirable Fuel, vs Gasoline , but I am not sure with my limited "Off Grid" usage. However, It would be nice when we Boondocking  during those Hot Nights at Cracker Barre.

    BTW, remember to use the "Yellow Neutral Ground Plug" that comes with the Oliver.

     

  9. On 7/1/2021 at 9:44 PM, Pat Maundrell said:

    We try to limit our speed to 63-65 MPH for safety reasons, and get 14-14.5 doing this. The first time we went to Florida we were in a hurry and were traveling at 70+MPH and actually got better Mileage, 15+MPG. Our TV is a GL 450 Mercedes, Gas engine. We generally drive in the Right Lane on Interstates and the Middle Lane if one is available, again for safety reasons. 

    Caution, One of the leading causes of RV accidents is SPEED!

    Our GL 450 has a 7 speed AT and can normally hold Cruise Control in 7th gear at 65 MPH. Of course it will occasional DownShift on slight Grades, which is to be expected.

    BTW, my wife also drives. 

  10. 7 hours ago, dewdev said:

    Pat

    The pressure at the Oliver quick connects is 11 inches of water column. This is considered low pressure. The pressure out of the 16.4 oz bottles or the 20 lb tanks is high pressure which most of the grills run on.

    i.e. grills can not operate on the Oliver low pressure. You can get a hose with the grill connector at one end and the 20 lb tank fitting.

    Thanks, I knew there was a pressure difference, but I didn't know how much. This helps explain things! 

    My situation involves a Fire Pit. When I hook up the Fire Pit with it's supplied Hose/Regulator to a 20 Lbs Tank, all is great. When I remove the Fire Pits Hose/Regulator and hook directly up to the Quick Disconnects, my Flame is to small. My solution is to install a "Y" connector at the Oliver's Tanks, one Branch going to the Regulated Oliver's Propane System, the other Branch going to the Fire Pit's Hose/Regulator connected by 20 Feet of hose to the Fire Pit so I can place it any where on the Campsite I need.

    Currently, our Weber uses 16.4 oz Bottles, but I think I'll convert it to the bigger bottles also.

  11. On 6/29/2021 at 12:59 PM, dewdev said:

    Does anyone know the propane gas pressure that is delivered to the quick disconnects?

    Thanks

    I am curious, why are you asking? Do you have a specific Problem with an LPG appliance (Grill, Fire Pit etc) hooked up to the Quick Disconnect? 

    This same question has gone through my mind and I was about to actually measure the pressure, for comparison purposes , when i discover the Hose between the Quick Disconnect and the Fire Pit was under sized, problem solved.

  12. I've done a little more research regarding Auto Sway Systems, both OEM and After Market.

    1. They are not intended to take the place of a WDH with Sway Control. To get the "Best Quality Ride" and the "Safest Ride," it difficult to beat a WDH with Sway Control combination!

    2. Several suppliers of After Market systems confirm that these devices are compatible with WDHs.

    3. I understand that some say they can Turned Off, but they aren't 100% off, just detuned>

    4. Some Systems may not be compatible with all OEM Brake Controls, these are outline in their instructions.

    5. The WDH's Sway Control Operating Range is expanded with a Electronic Auto Sway Control Device.

    6. After Market Systems (not installed) range from $200.00 - $600.00, installation from $100.00- $400.00.

     

  13. We try to limit our speed to 63-65 MPH for safety reasons, and get 14-14.5 doing this. The first time we went to Florida we were in a hurry and were traveling at 70+MPH and actually got better Mileage, 15+MPG. Our TV is a GL 450 Mercedes, Gas engine. We generally drive in the Right Lane on Interstates and the Middle Lane if one is available, again for safety reasons. 

    Caution, One of the leading causes of RV accidents is SPEED!

  14. On 6/28/2021 at 3:03 PM, Pat Maundrell said:

    I couldn't recommend a Tongue Storage Box more! We adapted the Stock Oliver Basket into a Storage Box and store our Leveling Ramps/Chocks and a few other Tools used during the Hitching process. Additionally, we store our Water Hose/Filter as well as our Shore Power Cables/Adapters. We secure this Box with Pad Locks, that are keyed the same as the Hitch Latch Lock as well as our two Electric Bikes Locks. I would estimate the total weight of items to be around 10-15 lbs.

    I've given the "After Market Aluminum Boxes" some serious consideration also, but because they are a little wider than the Stock Oliver Basket, (I think by 4 inches,) I am worried that they can causing a problem when you making very shape turn with the Trailer. I've come close to hitting our Stock Oliver Basket with our TV during Shape U-Turns in Parking Lots.

    It just dawned on me why I almost hit out Storage Box during a Max U-Turn maneuver, that  other may not experience.

    Our TV (GL450) has a 121 Inch Wheel Base, which is probably much shorter than other TVs. This Short WB provides a much tighter Turning Radius, which is a big benefit to overall Handling, but really advantageous when Backing into a Campsite or other tight situations. Additionally, the Ball of the Andersen Hitch is extremely close to the rear Bumper, (by design) which of course bring the TV's Bumper Corners closer to the Storage Box during  Jack knife Turns. This also shortens the overall Wheel Base of the TV andTrailer combination, by a few inches, which again improves Handling, etc.

  15. On 6/28/2021 at 3:52 PM, Jim and Frances said:

    Fritz, just as an FYI, I don't know about newer Ram's but many Ford's have trailer anti-sway control built into their traction control software.  Anderson cautions against using the anti-sway control on the tow vehicle with their hitch (see below from their manual).

    Also, if your tow vehicle manual recommends a WDH for your trailer given its weight, and you don't have one installed - and (this is the bad one) you have an accident, your insurance company could refuse to pay any claims as you were "not operating the vehicle in accordance with manufacturer specifications."  May be a long-shot, but I would include it in my decision making process.

    Don't want to muddy the waters but thought I would throw this in.

    image.png.13610feabe5b5662eb4a8f623fcde3d0.png

    I am not sure if I agree with everything in Andersen's Statement!

     Example, from what I understand and have seen demonstrated in Videos, the Auto Sway Control System applies the Trailer's Brakes, not the TV's Brakes to counter act the Sway. As far as these systems miss-reading the inputs, because the TV is equipped with a WDH, this doesn't make any sense. We all know that most WDHs, that also have an Anti Sway Feature, are very affective at reducing Sway, Therefore, it stands to reason that the Forces are also reduced! The reduction in these Forces  are read by the Auto Sway System which then sends the adjusted signals. Note, the "After Market" has two difference Auto Sway Systems, that I aware of  that are available now, for around $500-$600.00. As I mentioned in an earlier Post, about 90% of newer TV with these systems cannot be turned off, and those are can be turned off, are not off 100%, but are just Detuned.

    I've check with two WDH manufactures, (Andersen hasn't replied yet) and they both have no such recommendation. Additionally, "Can Am Airstream," which by all accounts is the leading authority on RV Towing, says that a WDH and an Auto Sway System complement each other! 

    I  would recommend you follow the TV's recommendations!  

    • Thanks 1
  16. 9 hours ago, dewdev said:

    Pat:

    How did you attach the pllywood box to the aluminium basket?

    What kind of paint did you use on the plywood?

    Is that a cleat on the left side of the box?

    The box is screwed to the sides of the Alum Basket.

    I could find Exterior 1/2 Plywood, so I just use the best quality Plywood I could find and carefully painted it so it soaked in, so far so good.

    Yes, cleats on both sides.

    Thanks for asking.

  17. 1 hour ago, Jim and Frances said:

    Pat, you make a good point.  I was just sharing info from Anderson that I had not seen raised in this thread.  My assumption (I have no facts on this) is that the Anderson hitch would be better at mitigating trailer sway than a TV's software given that the last thing you want to do when you get cyclical sway starting is to apply TV brakes.  I think one could be opening themselves to potential liability with not turning off the TV's sway control as per Anderson's specifications.  Here is an article I found interesting on towing liabilities.  While it points more towards the use of WD hitches, it describes the need to follow the manufacturer's specifications - regardless of how many lawyers were involved in writing the specs!   😄

    A Point of  clarification! Everything I read all indicates, that " When you first feel a Sway Condition Starting, you apply the Trailer Brakes first to help control the situation.  This is the beauty of these New Auto Sway Systems, the system knows what to do! Most Drivers don't understand this, much less have the time to think about it during a panic situation, hence an accident.

    • Like 1
  18. 8 minutes ago, Pat Maundrell said:

    Our TV is a 2015 Mercedes Benz GL450, with the Gas engine, 14 MPG at 65 MPH. Sadly it doesn't have an Auto Sway System, wish it did.

    IMHO, one of the biggest benefits of an Oliver, is that it doesn't necessarily require a big TV.  With a Loaded Tongue Weight under 600 LBS, this opens-up a lot of different TVs that can do the job! We considered another Airstream, but the models we were interested in all had higher Tongue Weights.

    As far as Auto Sway System are concerned, I understand that about 90% of vehicles equipped with them cannot be switched off. As "High Tech" as most TV are becoming, these system are still pretty basic in their design. They simply measure the "Basic  Principles of Physics," and then apply the opposing side's Brakes to counter act these forces. However, these system are intended to take the place devices, like WDH with Sway control, the "Basic Principles of Physics," are still there!! 

    I don't see a "Down Side," of using these Systems together with a WDH. However, you still must follow any manufactures recommendation!  I've contacted several Hitch Manufactures and they didn't share any Official position with me. I am waiting to hear from Andersen. Interesting, E Trailer has an After Market Auto Sway Control device for around $600.00, not installed. I agree with your concussion, "Sounds like they might just fight each other, to the user's detriment?" 

     

    Should read, However, these system are NOT intended to take the place of devices, like WDH with Sway control, the "Basic Principles of Physics," are still there!!  Sorry.

  19. 11 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

    Pat, what's your TV? Does it have auto sway control?

    I don't have a dog in the hunt,  because we don't have an Anderson,  and our trucks are too old for auto sway control.

    BUT, if I  had an Anderson,  and a truck with antisway , and Anderson told me best to turn it off, that's what I'd do. Sounds like they might just fight each other, to the user's detriment?

    Our TV is a 2015 Mercedes Benz GL450, with the Gas engine, 14 MPG at 65 MPH. Sadly it doesn't have an Auto Sway System, wish it did.

    IMHO, one of the biggest benefits of an Oliver, is that it doesn't necessarily require a big TV.  With a Loaded Tongue Weight under 600 LBS, this opens-up a lot of different TVs that can do the job! We considered another Airstream, but the models we were interested in all had higher Tongue Weights.

    As far as Auto Sway System are concerned, I understand that about 90% of vehicles equipped with them cannot be switched off. As "High Tech" as most TV are becoming, these system are still pretty basic in their design. They simply measure the "Basic  Principles of Physics," and then apply the opposing side's Brakes to counter act these forces. However, these system are intended to take the place devices, like WDH with Sway control, the "Basic Principles of Physics," are still there!! 

    I don't see a "Down Side," of using these Systems together with a WDH. However, you still must follow any manufactures recommendation!  I've contacted several Hitch Manufactures and they didn't share any Official position with me. I am waiting to hear from Andersen. Interesting, E Trailer has an After Market Auto Sway Control device for around $600.00, not installed. I agree with your concussion, "Sounds like they might just fight each other, to the user's detriment?" 

     

  20. 6 hours ago, Jim and Frances said:

    Fritz, just as an FYI, I don't know about newer Ram's but many Ford's have trailer anti-sway control built into their traction control software.  Anderson cautions against using the anti-sway control on the tow vehicle with their hitch (see below from their manual).

    Also, if your tow vehicle manual recommends a WDH for your trailer given its weight, and you don't have one installed - and (this is the bad one) you have an accident, your insurance company could refuse to pay any claims as you were "not operating the vehicle in accordance with manufacturer specifications."  May be a long-shot, but I would include it in my decision making process.

    Don't want to muddy the waters but thought I would throw this in.

    image.png.13610feabe5b5662eb4a8f623fcde3d0.png

    IMHO, I would be careful on how I would interpret statements like this! It has been my experienced that manufactures trend to make "these types of statements," simply for legal reasons. The bottom line is, "no manufacture, the size of Andersen," can spend the money to Test their products with all the different Vehicles in the Market Place! The costs involved in this type of testing is prohibited, only the Lawyers win. So, they make these Statements to get around the Legal issues.

    • Like 1
  21. 3 hours ago, dewdev said:

    Pat- Can you post a picture of your storage box?

    This is the second version of the our Storage Box.

    I find it interesting that when we were considering an Oliver, we ruled out the Storage Basket Option, because we thought it would add to much weight to the Tongue. The used 2019 Oliver we bought already had it so we took advantage of it, after we measured the Tongue Weight to make sure it was within our TV's Specs, Loaded 580 LBS.

    The Box is simply 1/2 Plywood inserted inside the Aluminum Basket. Note, the Piano Hinge Top and it's Drain Tube underneath the Hinge to keep water out. The Marine Cleat is part of out "Land Yacht" theme, We lock out E Bikes to them. 

    Note we hook the Safety Chains to the eyelet on the front when not in use. Also a Trailer Level Gauge and Electrical Cord is stored in it's holder mounted to the front.

    The third pic, show inside the Box. I mounted the Tools/Items we use again and again! Also on the Back panel are Stainless Steel Vents to reduce condensation  build up, which they do.

    Finally, note the Lock/Key which are Color Coded (Yellow) to the 2 locks on the Storage Box/Tailer Hitch/E Bikes/and everything else I can think of. The Latches are from the Marine Industry, again a Nautical Theme.

    IMG_0742.JPG.a9cd9b85d036eaf04004bf4dd91b980f.JPG

     IMG_0740.JPG.dc7977a873e90b2a5e9e27951c8c7e22.JPG 

    IMG_0739.JPG.0ff691a5ee34eb0fd5211316c86318da.JPG 

    Note we hook the Safety Chains to the eyelet on the front when not in use. Also a Trailer IMG_0741.JPG.b2a7bca045f51d8b59a9e76b384aab22.JPG 

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 8
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