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NCeagle

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Posts posted by NCeagle

  1. I'm claiming the credit for the new Solar package on the Oliver as well as a solar suitcase and an additional solar panel on the roof.  I've added panels over the years to my house and always claimed those additions without any problem.  I'm not sure about upgrading/replacing components though.

  2. 53 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

    Nice looking panels, I like everything but the price ($500). Are you using the supplied mounting feet or something different? They make quick release mounts which would be helpful for when you have to do work up there, since these can't be tilted. Or can they?

    https://store.zampsolar.com/collections/mounting-hardware/products/omni-mount-feet-quick-release

    I do want to comment, adding extra panels up top is great for when you are actually exposed to the sun. I am going with a suitcase portable unit for when that is not the case.

    Please post a full write up when you are done, I am sure lots of folks are interested. Thanks,

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    I'm planning on using the supplied feet, which are the quick release mounts that you shared the link for.  These definitely cannot be tilted like the bigger, 170 Watt panels that come with the solar package.  I also have a suitcase, but would prefer to get the most out of my rooftop and use the suitcase as a supplement when needed. 

    I'd appreciate some thoughts on the following...  I noticed while placing the panel up on the roof that the mounts were just about flush with the mounts that are already there.  I could easily use that same mount for this new panel on the trailing edge - with a fabricated mount.  That would eliminate the need for any new holes on that trailing edge (I'd lose the "quick release feature" but not a huge deal).  I think using the existing mounts is a no-brainer.  I'd still have to drill holes on the leading edge mounts, BUT - maybe - since I'm anchored to the existing mounts, I could just double up the VHB mounts in the leading edge by using the 2 that I won't use in the trailing edge and avoid drilling altogether?  

  3. 1 hour ago, mjrendon said:

    John,

    It does look nice. 

    I would be interested to hear what Jason recommends about the mounting technique if you don't mind sharing.

    I am considering adding another PV like this or converting to a MMPT charge controller) for a up to a 25% efficiency gain over the ZAMP PWM charge controller.  The existing PVs that I am using are rated at 320W but they lose about 25% to the PWM controller (~80W loss max).  

    The MMPT charge controllers run about $230 (30A) or $330 (50A) and supposedly provide a quicker and more consistent charging capabilities from what I have read. While the 30A controller allows for 440W (+120W available PV capacity at 12V), the  50A controller would allow for up to 700W if that is desired.  

    I think either upgrade should have about the same impact on the total charging capability of the system since adding 100W of PV with a PWM controller is ~75W max at the batteries.

    Mike

     

    Hi Mike, I agree that an MMPT charge controller is the way to go - especially as panels / solar capacity is added.  This is a quick and inexpensive upgrade (except for the $500 price tag on the panel - but if you take the 26% tax credit into account, the price comes down to $370).  Further upgrades would involve the "long" panels some have already installed.  The Obsidian 90 Watt long panels are a bit wider than the predecessor at just over 14", so I'm not yet sure if they would fit, but I definitely prefer the lighter weights since they are way above the center of gravity.  If they do, next year I'll consider adding those as well, and if I do I will upgrade to a higher amp Victron MMPT charge controller (or similar) at that time.  That would be a simple upgrade as well since all the pre-existing wiring could be used.

  4. Here's a picture of a partially installed Zamp Obsidian 100 Watt panel on the front part of the roof.  This super simple addition doesn't require any changes to the standard Zamp 30 Amp charge controller or access port on the roof (there are only 2 of 3 ports used).  Anything additional will require an upgrade to a 50 or 60 Amp charge controller.  There's still a decent federal rebate for solar this year.

    Before anyone goes crazy, I haven't finished mounting this yet.  I've got a question in to Jason about using some sort of stainless screws in addition to the VHB and then I'll seal it up with 3M 4200 just as Oliver did to the mounts on the other 2 panels.

    IMG_2669.thumb.jpg.00281c28aeab4fddf59dc8be3d25fe72.jpg

    • Like 6
  5. 20 hours ago, Jairon said:

    The lock pictured can be found on page 3: https://www.onmar.se/pub_docs/files/catalogue/section_b.pdf

    They mention a 3 Wafer Flat Key (MIM) lock which should correspond to keys PK-10-01 and PK-10-01-05. I can't tell if the cylinder comes out to allow a re-key though.

    Does anyone know the D and G values for an Oliver?

    lock.PNG.32637c1a8c4cc38f3133c69837110d62.PNG

     

    I have the lock off of the door right now (2020 Elite II).  The hole size is 2" and the thickness of the fiberglass is 10mm.  So D is 1 above.  I have the short cam offset reversed from what I can tell.  Worse case is just to re-use the same cam that's on the stock lock.  I found the correct Southco locking compression latch with the overmolded keys here:

    http://www.uglyfishinc.com/southco-m1-deck-hatch-marine-enclosure-latches-p/m1-2x-xx-x8.htm

    • Thanks 2
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  6. When I saw this key I immediately started looking into new locks for the exterior battery and basement doors.  I'm not as concerned about the batteries (which can be secured in other ways from inside with a padlock), but the fairly easy access to the interior through the basement concerns me.  I will probably end up calling Southco as I don't see the part with the over-molded key listed on their website.

  7. Hi Fargoman, my wife and I just picked up our Oliver and I can help with a few questions.

    1.  Ultrafabric is not really fabric we found...  it looks like some sort of cheap fake leather unfortunately.  We tried to trade it out immediately, but no luck (Oliver did try).  We will eventually just have them reupholstered with some real fabric - we don't care for any of the Oliver options anyhow (maybe just too picky).  One good thing is the Ultrafabric will be easier to clean / keep clean since nothing will soak in.

    2.  We didn't get the KTT mattress upgrade because we didn't want to invest in anything before trying the standard mattress and then possibly getting a custom one made at some point.  I don't care for memory foam so much as my back gets sore on it so I probably wouldn't like the KTT.  However, I was PLEASANTLY SUPRISED with the stock cushions.  They were actually pretty darn good.  A bit firm for my wife, but I didn't have a back ache or anything like that sleeping 2 nights on it.

    3.  I have the new Girard, powered awning.  I don't remember having a choice in the 2020 version so I can't help with this one.

    4.  We did not get this.  The valve is so easy to push in or pull out manually I'm glad we didn't go with the auto option.  Just some additional electronics that could break in my opinion.

    Best of luck picking everything out - no matter what you pick you will love it.

    NCeagle

    • Like 2
  8. On 11/17/2020 at 10:15 AM, John E Davies said:

    I am glad it is working for you but the manufacturer would consider that to be abuse. How long does the battery last before it will no longer perform well? OTH generic replacements are everywhere, cheap and simple to change. 

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

     

    Hey John, yeah - for sure not something the manufacturer would recommend since I drain the battery dead every time I take it.  The battery hasn't given me any problems in 2 years, but I don't do this very often (once or twice a year at most)...  I did take one with me this week to pick up our Oliver though as we slept in the back of my truck the first night and I did use it to power the dog's heated bed and charge my phone and watch over night rather than using my TV battery. 

    As I said, now that I have a travel trailer, I won't be needing to do this any longer.  I can start saving some $$$ for a real one (Jackery) some day - maybe black Friday 2021.  🙂  

    • Like 1
  9. Definitely the UPS is not "purpose built" as it doesn't have near the capacity, but it can obviously be used for some smaller mobile AC capabilities.  For example, it's great to use to power a small dog heating pad for the entire night.  I also use it at car shows (I have a Mustang GT that I take to shows with my son) to power a plasma globe that only accepts AC under my hood for hours.  I've used it to charge my electric toothbrush...  I can go on and on.  It has always been one of the most useful items to have along on a long road trip.  I have used a UPS when traveling by car - not travel trailer.  The way I see it I'll be towing an 80K Jackery soon and I won't need the UPS any longer!

    @Airedales, I recharge at hotels, etc. while on the road or just bring it back dead and recharge it at home.

    While some may not consider taking along a UPS, I never considered spending more money on a Jackery or something like that when all I needed was AC that a small UPS that I already owned could provide.   😏

    • Thanks 1
  10. I carry one (or a couple) of Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS) battery backup units when I need to have some temporary 120V electricity for smaller devices when traveling / camping.  I have a bunch of them around the house protecting sensitive electronics, so I can usually take one or two of them if I need to.  The one I tend to carry with me most is a 1500VA / 900W APC UPS unit.  Same concept at the Jackery although the Jackery is purpose built with handles, etc.

    • Like 1
  11. 16 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

    They can't be charged on 15 amps? Or are you simply wanting faster charging  ability (cueing in on word "need")?

    Yes - strictly charging capacity / time.  I suspect I "may" need extra charging capabilities on trips where I would be at 8-10K elevation and have to rely on electricity for heat, cooking, etc. due to propane challenges that can occur at these altitudes (gasoline for generators at these altitudes too perhaps?).  I would have bought a bigger, single generator, but I want the ability to mix and match needs vs. the type of trip I'm taking as well as not wanting to deal with the weight of a single unit.

    • Like 2
  12. 13 hours ago, GAP said:

    I have a Honda 2200 inverter generator which I intend to use primarily with our new trailer for on board battery charging and running the AC.  I'd was considering picking up the Hutch Mtn propane conversion kit which allows the option to run on either gas or propane with just the turn of a switch.  Question is, does anyone have experience running the Elite 2 air conditioning with a 2200 generator fueled by propane?  Propane is less efficient than gas so I'm wondering if that could prevent me from using the Honda.  BTW, I did get the "soft start" for the AC unit.

    Hi GAP, I also have the Honda 2200 and I've had the Hutch mountain propane conversion kit for a while.  I prefer propane (hope to not have to carry gasoline) and I will be testing this soon as we pick up our trailer this week.  So if you are not in a huge hurry, stand by and I'll let you know if it works as soon as I have a warm enough day back home in NC to do some quick tests.  We have the Lithium package which also included the soft start. 

    I will likely buy the companion Honda down the road and convert that to propane as well.  I eventually need 30 amps to charge the pair of Lithiums on days where solar can't keep up.

    • Like 3
  13. 1 hour ago, 2008RN said:

    I totally agree, I used to be in the information security business with IBM.  After 10 years of avoiding Facebook (after IBM), I finally had to join so I could get information being shared for work.  I use it for work only, I do not post, and I have a very restrictive account. I don't friend people, infact some of the crap facebook sends me just pisses me off.  (Ok off my high Horse).  I know that Oliver just like any other business with a web present is not secure.   I will be staying here only for my Oliver information.  I like this web site. It is friendly, full of knowledge, and supported by an honest business.  I love the "internet introvert" comment. 

    I was with Cisco.  I have lots of other colleagues in the industry who also will not use Facebook due to it's history of abuse of peoples private data.  They were often used as an example of how to put your business at great risk by ignoring data privacy policies and best practices.  I also have a Facebook account where I don't friend anyone, I don't post anything and I use it just for the MarketPlace - which I do find some value in from time to time.  I like that if I google my name it still doesn't find this site (yet).  🙂

    • Thanks 1
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  14. I worked in the information security industry before retiring a few years ago and Facebook still has a long way to go before they regain my confidence in their information security and data privacy policies.  MeWe is very similar and and a newcomer to rival FaceBook.  I'll wait and see quite a while before joining.  I'm sticking to this forum.  This is the only forum I have ever joined in my life (so far) because I see great value in the honesty and helpful tips everyone provides.  I'm going to remain an "internet introvert".  🙂

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  15. Let it snow!  I have plans to ski Jackson Hole and Steamboat for a week each in February with some good ski buddies of mine - one of which is my wife  🙂  (not in the Ollie just yet!).  Last ski season was cut short by Covid.  Not looking good for this season with this recent spike, but I'm planning trips to keep my sanity.  @Jim_Oker I have also been fortunate enough to meet many 70+ year olds tearing up the slopes over the years, and I strive to "follow in their footsteps" too.

    We are very much looking forward to picking up our Ollie a week from today and beginning our adventures.

     

    • Like 2
  16. 14 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

    The dehumidifier mentioned about is not currently available on Amazon.  However, this one is.  Looks like the same specs.  Anyone have experience with the Ivation 13-pint unit?

    https://www.amazon.com/Ivation-13-Pint-Small-Area-Desiccant-Dehumidifier/dp/B07B8SCPZ4

    Power draw is 280w (low)/470w (high).  Will this restrict use to only when on shore power?  We ordered our Oliver Elite II with the lithium pro package.

    Can't comment on the dehumidifier although it looks decent.  It will draw 3.9 amps on high and 2.33 amps on low.  With the Lithium package, you could "theoretically" run the dehumidifier on high for about 100 hours (4 days) before your Lithiums were completely drained.  Of course, you would never do this without recharging your batteries, but this unit doesn't draw that many amps compared to some things (like a hair dryer or microwave).

    • Thanks 1
  17. 4 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

    NCeagle -

    After rotator cuff surgery a number of years ago, I've been using these or bands at least three times a week.  I too carry them when camping but must confess that I have succumbed to the siren call of the adult beverage after a day of fishing versus putting in the half hour (or so) of exercise.

    That is a decent price for the entire outfit.  Unfortunately, it is usually one of the bands wears out before the others and then it is sometimes difficult to replace just that single one.

    Bill

    Yes, camping gives lots of extra exercise opportunities and I'll bet I use these less in the Ollie.  I do use them primarily for rotator cuff problems too.  I haven't had surgery but probably will have to soon.  Anyway, perhaps if needed they can be used for other things such as extra tie downs, or a super cool sling shot of some sort!   Maybe lob water balloons at each other with them at the next owners rally. 😏

    • Haha 1
  18. I've used hotel doors (pre-COVID), but lately I have used my truck door, mirror, side-step and tailgate.  A lot of times just my foot.  😀  Carrying a few of these vinyl coated S hooks adds a bit more flexibility to where and what you can hook them up to as well.  These are not very "heavy duty" though (good to about 45 pounds each), so one may need to double up or use thicker ones if working with more of the bands.

    • Thanks 1
  19. Here's something that I've been carrying around with me while on the road and using a lot lately.  Seems I'm either trying to get/stay in shape or work out an elbow or shoulder pain.  These are lightweight and if creative, you can get in a full low impact weight workout.

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  20. 18 hours ago, Fritz said:

    Thank you, John.  We will probably stick with the diesel for better towing mileage (at least that's what I anticipate), and extra built-in payload.  We found the regular Ram 2500 with Cummins rides pretty well (presumably a result of the rear coil springs) on a short section of dirt road, and gives more-than-adequate door-sticker payload for what we need.  The 6-speed transmission seems to have a decent reputation, but we have found that on one tester the transmission shifted more roughly than on others (similar to a 2014 used model that we also drove).  We didn't notice rough transmission shifts on previous test rides with different Ram 2500s.  In our limited experience, the 10-speed GMC 2500 transmission shifts very smoothly.  

    One would think that the 10-speed Allison transmission would yield better mileage for the GMC/Chevy than Ram's 6-speed transmission, but a significant difference is not apparent in the Fuelly.com data.  Anyone have thoughts on these transmissions?

    For those of you with the GMC/Chevy 2500 duramax, does the unloaded ride soften up a bit over time?

     

     

    Fritz, I have an older 2500 Duramax and it definitely has tighter suspension and therefore a bit rougher ride than the 1/2 ton equivalents (which I drove plenty of before I got the 3/4 ton), but not enough that I'd go back to a 1/2 ton.  John Davies mentioned the rear tire pressure and that's critical for the empty ride quality.  If you are test driving trucks off of sales lots, the rear tires are likely at 80 psi or so - which is what the door sticker says because it has to assume full load.  In reality, 80 psi is way too much for an empty truck - I keep mine at around 45 when empty and the ride is a LOT smoother.

    • Thanks 1
  21. I'm not exactly sure why, but General Grabber AT's give a better ride than Michelin LT's all around (including highway speeds) on my truck.  I also don't notice any traction problems in the rain.  I think it's a great idea to put AT's on the Ollie.  👍  I'll do it once I wear out the LT's.

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  22. Sorry I apparently confused BackofBeyond  and perhaps others.  

    Bottom line is for the LifeBlue lithium batteries, assuming you want to maximize longevity, you should not store them at full charge and keep them topped off at full as you would other batteries.  Topping off a Lithium during storage is recharging it back to 50% if it drops below 13V.  That's all I meant.

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