NCeagle
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Posts posted by NCeagle
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On 10/16/2020 at 1:35 PM, connor77 said:
Sounds like a plan John....I had found the RV America site when searching for ski resorts that might allow RV's and found the information interesting but I didn't watch Alan's video until you posted it here. Good info for sure. It's almost too bad that Oliver doesn't make a "cold weather" package especially considering they tout a four season trailer. Although I'm not sure there'd be much demand...but there are at least 3 of us that would have been interested!
When you spoke with the owner of airskirts did the owner mention where the product is actually made? Their website says "Designed and engineered" in the USA which usually means it's not actually made in the states. That's sort of a big deal for me considering the price. I may have some other questions for you and I'll PM you if I do. Let's keep in touch. Thanks...
I did not ask where the Airskirts were made. I do have some concerns about how they would fit around the steps of the Ollie. There would be large gaps without a custom set of smaller air bags. As I mentioned in a previous post, I'll be running lots of tests this winter in my driveway to see if skirts (and other things) make a big difference in various temps, winds, etc. I'll post anything I discover. I'm a data freak. Might be the first time ever I actually hope NC gets some frigid temps for my tests. 🙂 In the end, my preference will be to try and give the Ollie a customized "cold weather package" and not worry about skirts. I've got a lot of good ideas on where to start from reading this forum. Will definitely keep in touch!
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12 hours ago, connor77 said:
NC Eagle, I also ordered the Oliver because I wanted to be able to do the same thing you're planning to do in terms of skiing out west. I live in Maine not far from Sugarloaf and Sunday River but I still want to ski out west. I've only skied Steamboat and the conditions weren't great when I was there. I also like to fish and plan to do some of that out there too.
I'll be following this thread and if I find anything that might be of interest regarding the skirts or other ways to keep the cold out and things working I'll post it.
Hope everything goes well with your upcoming delivery.
Thanks connor77. Good to know there will be someone else with an Oliver trying some really cold weather camping. We'll have to share things we learn. I've skied Sugarloaf and Sunday River in the past... love it when the conditions are right. I've started buying some things for winter camping just in case although this winter I'm unlikely to try and pull anything off before I learn more. No skirts yet - that's going to require some testing first. btw, there's another Oliver owner / skier on this forum that I've met virtually called DonnaDuane who skis the west coast mts. in his Ollie. Cheers!
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On 9/24/2020 at 6:10 PM, NCeagle said:
I've got chains for my truck. I need chains for one axle on the Oliver. I'm looking at something similar (cables) to the Peerless brand Jim mentioned from Security Chain Company:
These are on sale 16% off right now on Amazon and the lowest price in 30 days. I'm pulling the trigger on them since I pick up in 5 weeks and will be within the return window if they don't clear / fit or something. I suspect the price will creep up as winter gets closer and closer.
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14 hours ago, bhncb said:
Anyone thinking about using chains on the trailer had better make sure there is enough clearance between the tire and fender skirt. Wheels have changed but not on my 2018, no way no how.
I would think the Z-chains that JD mentioned would be the best option since they are really cables that snug very close to the tire when properly sized. Real chains do have a bit of play in them and definitely require more clearance around everything.
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Interesting. Sort of a coin toss, but I'd go with a single, larger battery as that is a more future-proof approach in my mind. You'd have room to grow / add if you wanted with 1 larger capacity battery. Not so with 2 smaller ones if they fill your tray. Of course, if you can't add a new battery to an older one to create a set this is a moot point. 🙂
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On 8/14/2020 at 5:17 PM, Jairon said:
If it is the GG 750, the 15 foot or larger model uses 3 arms. Anything smaller than that would be 2 arms. I wonder if they kept the awning 15 feet or opted for 14 feet to cut costs.
It is the Girard GG750 according to the owners manual in the University and the length I have learned from Sales is 16' on the Elite II.
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Ok, no worries. If you listen to the video John also says you "may" damage the plumbing (as JD mentions), so I think they are in fact worried that some owners may use unregulated air pressure. Really it's all irrelevant unless it voids the warranty on the plumbing. I just had questions about the statements since they seem to go against common practices.
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On 9/26/2020 at 6:29 PM, Mainiac said:
As John Oliver explains in the winterization video of Oliver University you WILL want to connect the hand pump to the city connection and pump antifreeze through the outside shower, after normal winterization procedure is complete.
"We DO NOT recommend using blown air to winterize your travel trailer!" is also called out in that video. What's up with that?? From what I've read, it seems nearly everyone uses air to blow out the lines before pumping in the antifreeze - not just Ollie owners. I actually thought blowing out the lines before using antifreeze was recommended as the only sure way to get ALL the water out. Is it just a case of some owners using too much pressure and blowing up the plumbing and this is the way to say it's not covered by warranty?
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12 hours ago, bhncb said:
Thinking I must have missed something, I just went back and reread this entire topic. Enough questions have been raised to justify keeping it alive for awhile.
I am seeing two different threads with the same topic name of "LifeBlue Battery Representative". This one has 25 (26 counting this one) replies and the other one has 75 replies with a lot of information on it as well. Pretty confusing actually - didn't think having alternate universe threads would be possible?
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11 hours ago, Susan Huff said:
Thanks . . . . looks like you have to buy the tensioner separately?
What chains do you use on your truck? Ours would need similar.
I have "real" chains as opposed to cables (https://www.etrailer.com/p-TC3829.html) on the truck. I chose the V Bar linked chains for the best traction in deep snow AND ice because I carry them skiing in the Rockies with me, but I haven't had to use them yet (thankfully). I also bought the spring tensioner (https://www.etrailer.com/p-TCSA2.html), although I'm not convinced they are absolutely necessary. I saw a lot of positive reviews for the spring tensioners mentioned with these particular chains.
I also noticed that these chains are on sale (at least right now) for a lot less than I paid several years ago.
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I've got chains for my truck. I need chains for one axle on the Oliver. I'm looking at something similar (cables) to the Peerless brand Jim mentioned from Security Chain Company:
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12 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
Where are you planning to camp in the winter months that you'll want skirts?
There are certainly less expensive alternatives than the airskirts. Maybe not as "cool."
Also, important to know where you will be done spending the winter. Is this for several months? Are you planning to full time? If si, you need a solution that fits the park's rules, unless camping on your own land.
Hi SeaDawg, if I were going to name my Ollie, it would probably be "Powder Hound". I love skiing, especially in the deepest powder I can find. 🙂 For the past 3 seasons, I've been driving my truck (from NC) to CO, UT, WY, etc., and bouncing around for 3-4 weeks at various ski resorts. I love having the mobility and flexibility to pack up quickly and go wherever the best conditions are. I have gotten so many more quality days in the past 3 years doing this than I had in the past flying in for a week and hoping it snowed where I was staying. Anyway, I can't live in my truck so I use expensive hotels and my dream is to try and do this in the Ollie. I specifically picked the Oliver because I feel it's the best true 4 season TT in the industry. Conditions in the Rockies in the winter can vary from sunny and 40 degrees to storming and below zero - not to mention high altitudes where propane and other things also don't work as well if at all. The more prepared I am for cold, windy conditions for days at a time, the higher my chances are of not having to pack up and leave. My ultimate winter camping trip would be to get to a ski resort and set up camp in nice, 30 degree sunny weather just before the big storm. I would need to hunker down and ride out the storm. These storms often include huge wind, thus I am thinking about the skirts as something that would help in those situations. I would dig out after the storm and have several epic days of powder skiing. I'd find out where the next storm was going to be and go do it again. This is truly possible: https://rvacrossamerica.net/winter-rv-camping-ski-resorts/
The plan was to have most of this year to get to know the Ollie and prepare a bit for the much more difficult winter camping adventures, but having to wait 6 months for the Ollie put a damper on that. The pandemic also may force me to try it this winter as a rookie. I've PM'd with DonnaDuane, who has experience skiing with the Oliver and offered some very good tips. They have not considered a skirt where they ski (Cascades), but said that if in the Rockies at higher altitudes they would. It's rare to see a camper without skirts in a ski camp area. I can't find any data/proof that they actually work, but common sense dictates that they most likely help and certainly don't hurt. I don't want to be the only travel trailer to have to pack up and leave for some reason - that would be embarrassing. If I decide to try skirting, I would want something that doesn't take up much space, is lightweight/portable, doesn't require drilling and is fast to set up and take down. The air tubes seem to meet these criteria but I'm still researching. I don't think they look cool (I'm laughing at the hovercraft vision 🤣) but I'm glad someone does!
By the way, my expectations of pulling this off this winter are low - but if I don't it won't be because I didn't try. Here's a great video about challenges RVs, TTs and MH's have in the Rocky Mt. winters:
I think the weakest link in the Oliver is going to be the refrigerator. Unless the model has changed, I don't think a heat kit can be added to the one we have in the Oliver. I will prepare to live without a fridge on my first ski trips, but that will be one of the first things I "upgrade" (there are models that supports heat kits, etc. - very similar to the low temp lithium batteries Oliver chose)
I'm going to at least practice and test around here on some cold nights. 90% of the time my wife and I will be leaving winter gear behind and camping in tropical sunshine and fair weather and loving every minute of it!
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7 hours ago, Dean said:
According to one of the factory tour videos on you tube it is 18” from frame to surface on the EII and that’s what I recall reading some where.
Thank you Dean!!!
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13 hours ago, Dean said:
It’s on the site some where.
I've spent well over an hour searching and can't come up with anything but guesses. 😬
If/when time allows, can a current Elite II owner measure and post the distance from the ground to the bottom of the propane cover on the tongue when the Oliver is sitting level?
Thanks in advance.
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20 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
Air skirts. Hmmmmm. Feel free to investigate and buy, but this is a $1500 purchase that is totally not needed with an Oliver. For a conventional junk stick and staple trailer or an Airstream, it probably makes a bunch of sense. It is a band aid fix for horrible build quality and design and exposed plumbing. Your Ollie is engineered and constructed to keep out cold and there certainly is no problem with larger animals getting in, ants maybe through the little scupper drains. I hope I am not sounding too harsh, but if you ask for opinions about this product here, I think you will find nearly complete consensus.
Unless you are thinking about living in your Ollie full time, outdoors through an arctic winter?
Does this new product have any consumer reviews or energy tests? I would be interested to read those. Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
I don't see anything out there yet as far as reviews, etc., as I think they may be too new. I suspect they would work as well as any other skirt if it fits - I was interested due to it's simplicity and portability (cost aside). Skirts can be made for free using snow if one so desires, but I'm willing to pay for something if it's innovative and works.
So skirts.... no I don't plan to live full time or camp through and arctic winter in my Oliver. But... I want to insure that if I'm on a winter camping trip and it gets pretty cold (Rocky mountain cold) for a few weeks or even a few days in a row, I won't have to pack up and leave because my plumbing may freeze. I actually prefer to chase storms in the winter as opposed to run from them.
I'd love to hear from other owners about this if they have cold weather experience in their Ollies. There really isn't a ton of information to go on in this forum as far as owners sharing cold weather camping experiences, but I've read the few posts I could find and there are definitely comments and common problem areas in and around the basement and/or plumbing called out. Everyone has tried various things to move warm air around better from the living area to the basement, etc. I'd rather use skirts if they would accomplish the same or make the best in the industry even better? In the end, it's $$ for skirts or $ + time for electric heaters and fans and heat tape and insulation, etc.
Have any owners tried or run some tests in the cold and found skirts to be a waste of money on an Oliver? If not, I'll be running some tests with makeshift skirts and a bunch of temperature sensors at home before I splurge on anything. If it saves money (less propane/elec in the Winter and Summer), headaches and potential damage, then it pays for itself pretty fast.
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21 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
Do you mean hull clearance or frame/ suspension clearance? The hull itself is fairly level - it is dead flat across the bottom, but the frame varies. It is quite a bit lower in the back because of the sewer compartment support (cross) braces. It is the rearmost one of those that will drag. See pic. The suspension is marginal in a few places, like the low hanging shackles and axle ubolts.
Why do you ask?
John Davies
Spokane WA
Hi John, I'm interested in the clearance around the perimeter of the body to see if https://www.airskirts.com/ would work on the Oliver. I spoke to the owner of the company this morning (super nice, responsive guy) and he thinks a small RV kit with a few modifications to the sizes of the tubes would work. I'm going to ask him what the diameter of those tubes are to make sure the Oliver doesn't sit too high off the ground for them. Thanks.
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6 minutes ago, Susan Huff said:
How does the camper shell work out for you? How do you secure the bikes during transport . . . . . is it necessary to remove the front wheel? One thing we really like about our bike rack is how quick and easy it is to load/unload the bikes. We aren't real particular to them being exposed to the elements. They are nice bikes, but not carbon fiber, custom built. They get dirty, as do all off road bikes, but we keep them clean and maintained.
The camper shell works out great for the bikes. I like the looks of Patriot's system, but I'm lazy so I just leave the front tires on and lean the bikes to get them through the back door. Once in the shell they can stand up straight and I just use tie down straps to secure them there. I have a hitch bike rack that I've used over the years when my truck bed was full and we still wanted our bikes - but I don't like that much because the bikes were always filthy after a trip - including fine dust and dirt in the chains, etc. I like them inside for sure.
I've only had to take my shell off maybe a half a dozen times in the 14 years I've had it. I have an easy system where I can take it off and put it on by myself - takes about 30 minutes for each. I use a pair of 2' x 4's suspended from my garage ceiling by ratcheting straps. I slide the boards under my topper and then ratchet it up off the truck and drive off. Even so, I think if I had to take it off a lot more often I'd think twice about it too. I see why you might be hesitating to get the bigger top... not quite as easy to work with as the tonneau covers.
Good luck - so many options.... 🙂
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Hi all, I'm trying to figure out the clearances around the body of the Elite II. Has anyone by chance ever measured this? I'm guessing from pictures and the size of the tires that it's about 16" but I hope someone has measured or knows this offhand. Also assuming it's the same all around but that may not be true. Thanks!!!
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6 hours ago, Susan Huff said:
21" from ground to center of receiver, pickup unloaded and on flat ground.
My receiver is 22" from ground to center, 23 1/4" to the top inside edge. Oliver has told me (and there are numerous confirmations on this forum) that 23.5 to the top of ball is optimal. Just so happens that if I use a hitch without rise/drop, I'm super close to 23.5" unloaded. I found through simulated load testing (using a 600 lb. tongue weight and several hundred more pounds worth of camping gear in the back) that my truck will drop about 1". I have air springs, so I can just add air to bring my truck back up to 23.5". If I didn't have the air springs, I could have used the longer shank ball with stacked washers or found a hitch with a 1" or so rise.
Using my example, you will be 1" low when unloaded and somewhere between 1-2" low when loaded. If you drop another 2" with your receiver, you will be 3-4" lower than recommended. I don't know if that's within specs - seems based on Oliver's response it may be fine. I think if you used air springs (relatively inexpensive and easy to install for someone with basic mechanical skills) and some stacked washers on the ball you could get pretty close to level. Another option is just get a camper shell for your truck and the bikes will stay nice and cozy in there. That's what my wife and I do.
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Here's some cool storage boxes I put in the bed of my truck a few months ago called "Swing Case" that I'm really loving so far (Undercover SwingCase Truck Bed Storage Box | SC101D | Fits 99-07 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra 1500-3500Drivers Side 1500-3500). I bought the Chevy brand and they make similar cases for the other major pickup truck brands. They use the spaces behind the wheel well that are tough to use. They are easy to remove if you want to use the entire bed for plywood or sheet rock, etc. They swing out for easy access to the storage which is awesome because I used to have to jump up into the bed to get to my toolbox in the back. Here's what they look like installed:
I have all my tools in the one on the driver side - and I carry a large assortment so pretty heavy. On the left hand side, here's some pictures of what I have packed in there:
Holds a surprising amount of stuff: ratchet wrenches, a collapsible utility shovel, 2 tie down straps, a rain suit, heavy duty booster cables and a tire repair kit. Even if I have things in the middle of the bed that are in the way, I can easily move them out onto my tailgate to make room to swing the box. The price is pretty steep, so I started with one and liked it so much I ended up buying the other side.
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25 minutes ago, Overland said:
I think the lifetime cost argument is valid, if you're comparing amp hour to amp hour. But if you're buying a generator either way, then the Ah advantage of the LFPs is nil. So in real world usage, you're comparing $1000 of AGMs to $4000 of LFPs. The AGM will last ¼ the life of the LFPs, but they also cost ¼ less.
So you could argue that they cost the same over time, and I'd agree. But there's a couple of things to consider. One is that $4000 up front is a harder pill to swallow. The other is that at least for me, I'll never come close to even the minimum expected cycles of my LFPs. Looking at my battery monitor, I have 10 full cycles on my batteries right now, over three years. Assuming a minimum of 2000 lifetime cycles, I'll break even in, roughly, 650 years. In other words, for me, either battery type will die of old age before they die from overuse, and I've seen no data on the shelf life expectancy of either.
Yeah, I definitely see your points. I was trying to figure out why you only have 10 full cycles on your batteries over 3 years and I think I remember you mentioning in another thread that you camp where you don't need the A/C that often! I'm still glad I'm getting Lithium - I will need the A/C and plan on using space heaters for winter camping (lots of ski trips). 😉 Extra Ah could reduce propane dependency for me as well. Do you think it has reduced your propane dependency at all? If nothing else, I'll not have to get out and jump in my truck and get the generator as often as I would have otherwise. Can't really put a price on that. 🙂
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49 minutes ago, Overland said:
I agree to a certain extent. Like I said above, I think they're still more of a niche product that work well for a smallish subset of owners. But that's all down to the cost. The advantages that Susan listed are real - hands down, they're better batteries. If they cost the same as AGM, no one would hesitate to buy them.
But the cost is a big factor. I was able to justify mine because I bought my whole electrical system at day one, getting some discounts, the full tax credit, eliminating things from our Oliver order that we would have otherwise paid a good bit of money for, and deciding to forgo a generator. With all that, I spent an extra $1000 or so. To me, that was an easy call for what I got in return - which wasn't for just the batteries, but the extra solar and all the cool electronics. I also had the compressor fridge which was going to cost me extra amp hours, so the bump in battery capacity was more easily defendable.
If I were thinking about it on an in-service trailer today - where I'd already bought AGM's, a generator & accessories, inverter, generator port, and was looking at a smaller or no tax credit, I don't know if it would be such an easy a choice. Even assuming that your current batteries are dead and have to be replaced, LFPs are still going to be $2,500 - $3000 more than just getting a new set of AGMs. For that money, you'll get roughly 1 ½ to 2 days of extra battery storage and a handful of extra goodies (which, let's face it, are nice to pad a list of advantages but on their own aren't really worth much). Is that worth the money? Maybe? It entirely depends on your priorities and how well your trailer has taken care of you so far.
And it's that second part that's the key. I don't think that I've seen single post from anyone who's been disappointed at the battery life of their Elite II. Sure, people always want more, but the fact is that 200 usable amp hours is sufficient for the vast majority of owners. And for the times that it isn't, most people don't mind carrying a generator. It's maybe a different story for an Elite I owner, due to the limited battery space available - a much easier choice imo for them to opt for some LFPs.
If I were looking at a new Ollie right now, and the LFP pro package, I'd probably pass. Not probably - I know that I'd pass, just because having done all the research and being comfortable that I can wire my own electrical, I'd want largely the same system I have now rather than what Oliver is offering. What Oliver is selling is fine, but I don't think it's the best, and for the same money you can get the best, provided you're willing and able to do the work yourself. The one thing I'd change, apart from getting a few updated components, would be that I'd probably go with Victron batteries today instead of Battleborns, just because the price of those has gone down and I wouldn't care so much about the issue I had at first where I thought I'd have to do my first trip using Oliver's electronics.
Even then, I'd still have the issue of a somewhat undersized solar array relative to the increased battery capacity. So I'd probably want to spend more for a portable solar kit (and hope it doesn't get stolen), rewire my truck to charge from it (unlikely), or give in and get a generator. And I really don't see the advantage of having both LFPs and a generator. With a generator, you've made the primary advantage of the LFPs practically irrelevant. Maybe you'll have to use it less often, but the real pain of a generator is just having to carry it and its fuel around all the time. Plus you've paid $3000 more for batteries and then another $1000 for a generator that you're hoping not to use. How many times do you have to be able to go without a generator to add up to $3000 worth of convenience?
To me, this is all very similar to the debate about compressor vs absorption fridges. No doubt, one is better than the other; but the lesser of the two is still fine. If you can choose the better without great cost or trouble, then do so. But if it's going to cost a lot of money or be a pain to retrofit, then I think justifying it is going to be entirely an exercise of exaggerating to yourself the advantages of the one and the disadvantages of the other. That, or be comfortable with the fact that you're doing it just because you want to. Which is fine - I have a number of those projects under my belt.
hmmm... interesting perspective that cost is a big (seemingly negative) factor for you, I agree that cost is a big factor but I definitely went with Lithium because I was sold on lower maintenance and longer life that over time should be significantly LESS expensive. I have come to the conclusion that if you have batteries, no matter what kind, and you dry camp, you will always have to consider having a generator of some sort with you or risk not being able to recharge (solar or otherwise). If I didn't think I was getting more value over time for the Lithiums, I would have passed. Hope I didn't make a mistake, but only time will tell.
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1 minute ago, LiFeBlueBattery said:
Hi NCeagle,
If your generator can produce 15 Amps AC (assuming you meant this), then you can easily power the Xantrex charger for the needed amperage. I think he gap is insignificant unless you are only relying on PV solar power.
340 Watts of PV solar power in ideal conditions (high irradiance, low angle of incidence, cool cell temp) can make over 20 Amps.
Ah - yes - good catch... 15 amps AC with the generator. For all solar charging, it looks like I'll be able to use the BMS app to monitor the charging amps and either plug in my solar suitcase or not... that's sweet!
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8 minutes ago, Susan Huff said:
Good points! Thanks . . . . . I'll quit losing sleep over it.
Are you going to discount the price of the Easy Start module that comes with the Lithium pkg? Yes, it's been said I can be a bit anal 😇
I'm planning on just using the package price to keep it simple. I don't know any better and Oliver has been nice enough to call it a "Solar Package". 🙂
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Winter storage - with solar or 110 pug-in?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by NCeagle
Yes, you are certain what the best way is to maintain your Lithiums when in storage. Directly from the spec sheet:
Storage Method: 50% SoC, test @ 90 Days, recharge if below 13.0V
So don't use solar power to keep your Lithiums topped off during storage unless "topped off" means 50%. 😏