SNY SD UP
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Posts posted by SNY SD UP
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On 4/4/2024 at 12:56 PM, MAX Burner said:
Hey, John:
If you're only talking a couple inches of height - air-down your 4 tires enough to get that clearance. Roll the rig into position in the barn. This shouldn't damage the tires. Air them back up once in position. Problem solved.
GJ - Just remember to add 'Air-Down' to your step-by-step before leaving the 'Barn', if you do 'air-up' once in.
I'm following this thread, with great interest and maybe I should have joined the discussion about 9 pages ago.
Our (2) rear leaves broke on the 'eye leaf' at the point where the leaf below the eye ended. I believe I saw some similar break points on other pics posted above. We were in the NWT/TUK area so resources were limited. We cobbled together 2 new but different LS's to get us back down to Whitehorse, YT. Image a horse with two worn shoes in fronts, with a loafer & tennis shoe on the rears... But it tracked & pulled straight. OKAY, maybe not that bad, we can smile but not yet laugh about it now.
We had all 4 LS's replaced by 'Jacob Industries' (HIGHLY RECOMMEND IF YOU NEED WORK DONE...) the go-to suspension business in Whitehorse YT, last summer to get us home. So we'll probably not be replacing LS's unless we break another on our return adventure to AK this summer. And yes, we now carry 2 (the fronts) LS with new brass bushings if we needed. Our new LS's had some differences in length from what we had from the build, they are rated at 1830 lbs.
The ride home from Whitehorse was slow and not 'stiff' at all, but by this time we were on pavement.There is a lot more that ScubaRX & I found out about LS's that are compatible with the the LE2, in research & discussion.
Starting with 'where does Oliver source them from' to that sources part numbers & spec's. Even on some of the supposed same universal PN's from different suppliers sometimes there are slight/negligible differences in the A B C D measurements that make it less that totally consistent by supposedly the 'same industry PN' across suppliers.
And that was just the 4 leaver's. I have spreadsheets, but this thread is way beyond that point, by going with ALCAN.I actually like the idea of going with 5 leaves, not for load increase (which we will not do), but the fact that the first leaf below the eye, extends to the eye.
Snow maybe Wed, after the melt we'll pull SNYSDUP out of the nesting box, and start loading him up,
Cause "WE ARE GOING CAMPING".B-Out,
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WHAT IS HAPPENING?!
I was uploading pictures of the "Sasquatch' that we saw the other day, and not only did they NOT UPLOAD or APPEAR, but my original pics seemed to have disappeared too!!!
How in the world are ppl going to believe in my sighting if I cannot post my pic's on the Oliver forum???
What is this Oliver World coming too??Just Kidding... A Happy Easter to ALL-IVER Friends & Family.
Bryan, Maggie, Willis (aka Kamper-Kat) as we prep for 'AK 2024'
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On 2/15/2024 at 7:54 AM, HDRider said:
I could not do PDF. My version of Excel is old.
This is the best I could do.
when you go into PRINT, can you 'print to PDF', then it will ask for a file name?
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21 minutes ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:
I’m of the opinion the picture shows a correct 4 battery parallel install. It’s a bit confusing with the red + caps on negative posts, but looks correct to me.
Yes, on the lower left Batt; Red Post Cap, but a "-" (negative) on Batt housing.
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3 minutes ago, rich.dev said:
2 filters if you have the antifreeze kit. The original filter is used to decalcify the unit.
We do not have the anti-freeze kit. probably should have it, based upon our location...
Does the screen on the De-Cal tube just keep the De-Cal tabs in place and ensures the particles from there are smaller than the mesh.
Does outside water pass thru it on the way to the WH? Or is the only filter for the WH, the one in-line at the water pump?
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As far as I am aware, there is only one "Filter" associated with the Truma AquaGo.
It is the one that you would use to hold the Decalcification Tabs in the screen mesh tube, when doing that process.
When not in De-Cal Mode, the wire mesh would catch "particulates" from your water source.
I am not aware of any other WH in-line filter unless someone has installed/added an in-line before & outside the unit itself.
Bryan
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Between Ronbrink's (very doable) MOD & JD's recommended straps,
I see a winter project that I soooooooooo want to complete before our 2024 Alaska Oli-venture.The plumbers strap that held (past tense) the WH has snapped. And I have what I believe is a great replacement for it and to add it to the Heater while I am at it.
Thanks Ronbrink & John Davies,
B~out
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Ronbrink -
I had the same issue, and have thought about what it would take to get our rubber moved back between frame & belly. Some areas i was able to do it by hand, although i suspect my efforts would be negated by the forces (wash-boardy roads???) that caused it in the first place. other areas, i could not budge it without having to raise the hull from the frame.I too thought (and JD validated it) of the 2x6 (or 2x8 to dissipate/spread pressure) for (2) hydraulic jacks on the hull, but have not done so yet. It should only take maybe 1/8 - 3/16" upward movement to get enough room to reposition the rubber. I may go a 1/4" to floss out the dirt/dust and apply the "3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV " between the frame and the rubber.
I guess I should also open a ticket and add pictures.
B~Out
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https://www.cnn.com/2023/12/08/health/rocky-mountain-spotted-fever/index.html
I am guessing many of you are aware of this, and probably already do "Tick Patrol" when you return from hikes or at the end of the day. Do you also check your "Furies" when they come in and lay on the floor or bedding?
Although this article references adventures down to Mexico, RMSF and "Lyme Disease" (a different bacterium) occurs within the boarders of the US. So far AK does not seem to have an issue with either at this time. (we were already planning to travel to AK 2024...)
We have lots of opportunities to temporarily host "Ticks" up here in ND (where Lyme disease is more common than RMSF) even without getting beyond our yard. A family member did get a bite a few years back, we monitored the "Red Bite Ring" (never found the "bitter") and there did not appear to be any after effects from it.It just seems that some of the diseases and infections we are now subjected to, are more common but aggressive than they were 50-100 years ago.
Yes, we have better medicines that can help if administered in time, but some of these illnesses are becoming resistant to some of the go-to medicines of the past.I am not trying to start a long thread of "war stories", but just a quick reminder to "Be Aware" and monitor, if you or your "Furies" do get the "Red Bite Ring"...
Just like tire pressure and battery usage, another thing to be aware of, but not prevent us from going on our "Oli-ventures".
B~Out,
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On 12/3/2023 at 8:06 AM, Peggie said:
The Ceiling is curved where a latch might be most conveniently put. The picture is what I think I will do. At least right away. The hook is at the closest flat point on the ceiling. I'll just put a small decorative chain on the door handle and continue to look at hinge options.
You are correct, the curved ceiling makes it a bit more challenging.
I know there are some "WOODWORKERS+OTT" owners on the forum, that may have some ideas on lift mechanism that might crossover from wood/MDF to an OTT plastic door.I am following this mod/thread, as I have thought of this for some time with regards to the attic cabinet door, so when open, it does not interfere with TV viewing. I want to be able to 'gently' lift & close, preferably auto-magically, but I guess manually would be the second choice.
It might be as simple as using some double sided adhesive tape on "something like these" hooks to hold them in place, Clear (maybe there is a white) but functional.
https://www.zoro.com/idesign-suction-hook-plastic-hook-clear-base-16600/i/G508348816/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=19633513665&productid=G508348816&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu77ScC7S6JEJPHqGA9qOdBxkgBzQvUXO3Gk3TQJsnrrGLxaH-wxnfMaAmaXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.dsThe problem is "it's a hook" that you have to 'manually mate' up with the opening on the door latch.
B~Out
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Me again.
This may or may not work, but it will probably generate some additional topic traffic.
First concern, he is going into a 'wood' door and 'we' are going into plastic.
Next concern, would be what do you anchor the lower side of the piston to. Obviously the floor of the cabinet, but how solid is that to hold screws under tension.
I can see the top bracket being attached to the same type of round threaded metal disk on the outside of the cabinet that the existing hinges attach to.
Finally, would the working location of the piston or other 'spring loaded' scissors hinge' make it difficult to get large items in & out. -
6 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:
While you’re chewing your cud remember that good quality stainless steel has very little attraction to a magnet.
Steve,
And these are the important & pertinent comments by others on this forum that will fill-in for my lack of knowledge.
Bryan
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Peggy,
Are you looking at something like a spring loaded scissor piston hinge to lift the door, when unlatched?
Bryan
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Peggy,
You are correct, I just visited SNY SD UP, and there is no way to access the inside of the ceiling from the inside of the cabinet.
And with the molded ceiling curve to cabinet, that does not allow for any type of a magnet to flush fit to the existing metal latch mechanism.Maybe just change the one you have removed, and work thru how you will create a way to keep it up while accessing the inside of the cabinet.
Still ruminating on this.
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If you had access to the inside of the FG ceiling, you could attach a (STRONG) magnet inside that was aligned to the cabinet latch, and it would hold like magic.
(I will now go out and look at 'SNY SD UP' to see if that ceiling area is accessible from the upper inside of the cabinet area) ruminating on this for a while.
We did this to hold the bathroom mirror door open against the exterior of the front dinette cabinet. One magnet on the door the other aligned with one magnet on the inside of the access area under front dinette cushion.Bryan
Remember with (2) magnets, if you want them to attract, make sure N-S are reversed, if you want them to repel align N-N... Don't ask me how I know.
"Hey Bryan, the bathroom door is not holding like it should"...-
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Peggy,
Did you use to use razorblades to cut/remove the calking? I have found that these work well and they do not hurt the fiberglass.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVM7W35?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1Have you decided how to hold it up when open? I do not have a lot of experience, but I have a lot of ideas.
I am seeing a chrome/stainless steel magnetic disk (aligned with the with front of metal latch) with adhesive on the back that would adhere to the fiberglass ceiling. So when you lift it up, it would catch to the magnet. Like with all magnets it would need to touch most if not all of the metal latch to hold well enough to not come crashing down on your head. I do not believe this would not be too b'ugly. Some of the marine-type (SeaDawg, Are your ears perking?) folks may chime in here with resources/experience.Bryan
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On 4/19/2022 at 6:40 PM, Toojennifer said:
I think that was us. We were living in the trailer during house remodel.
Tanks were fine but we do have tank heaters. We had lost our tankless water heater when we were out of town and the contractors knocked the trailer plug out. I think a faucet and the toilet valve thing. That was round one.
Then during the really cold weather I went to my sisters and my husband stayed in the trailer with bunks pulled up, every possible type of heater going (we were trying to keep house from freezing as well), propane freezing up so water lines frozen etc. it finally thawed. I’m not getting all that exact but my husband could sure fill you in on any damages. It was rough though.
We can’t seem to come up with a name.
How about FROSTY...
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Sherry & Paul,
Lots of Campsites are open and more are becoming available each day up here in North Dakota. The only migration is that of the birds heading south.
Oh WAIT, our first snow dump of the season, now they are inaccessible until May.B~Out (Shoveling the driveway)
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On 10/18/2023 at 10:09 PM, Dennis and Melissa said:
Does anyone have advice/opinions on tonneau covers and/or bed-liners?
We have a Ram 1500 with 6.5 foot bed. Brand new, so just raw metal right now. (My son is screaming at me to get the MOPAR spray in bed liner.)
We're thinking we want something lockable, but not necessarily heavy duty.
There's only 2 of us. And the back seat space of the truck is quite large. So, we don't plan on carrying much in the bed besides a few campground niceties and "overflow" luggage. I can't imagine we would fill even half of it.
D&M,
Oliver is our first TT, as soon as Maggie found it online, and said she wanted it, that was good enough for me.
We placed our order in May '20, went to the factory for a tour and to see the various options in person. We would have added the Lithium package if it had been available at the time. We picked up in August, and were on our way. We have had it 3.5 camping seasons with about 40k camping miles, see our map.After we bought a new "TRUXEDO LO PRO TONNEAU COVER" we found out this summer travelling hundreds of Km's on dirt roads up in Canada, we had a lot of dust & some moisture in the bed and settle on the contents. I did have a towel to stop dust from coming up & in from the bottom of the tail gate where it hinges to the bed.
We also purchased a rack which "shares" the bedrail along with the Tonneau cover to carry Kayaks, his is 12' hers is 10', not sure how long I will continue to enjoy loading and unloading them.
The bed rail rack, may have something to do with Tonneau cover's inability to hold out the dust.
My solution was to cover with a tarp & tuck it around the contents before closing the Tonneau.In closing, let me state what others have not... "You will find a way to fill up the bed of your truck"...
Regards,
Bryan, Maggie & Willis (aka Kamper Kat)
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Ours are 3 yo. My problem is I have accidently stepped on them while dumping. Some slight oval-ing, but no cracks or leaks.
I think I will replace before next outing...
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On 10/17/2023 at 8:06 AM, topgun2 said:
A phone call to Jason in Service might bring you some hints on the process - they've done it a number of times.
Bill
I have opened a Service Ticket. Awaiting a response.
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To the Forum,
Has anyone removed one from an Oliver?
I believe I see how to do this, but looking for some prior experiences here... Before I start the process.Thanks,
Bryan
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Oh, this was a re-active project, not a pro-active one...
We have a LE II, I am not familiar with the foot well on an LE I.
Would your aux water tank fit in the foot well, and could you then put a bungee around the aux water tank and the post? keeping it near the post and not blocking air returns?
B~Out,
Loose Dometic stove burner
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by SNY SD UP
Just cannot seem to remember it all the first time...
We also had this issue while up in northern Canada last summer. We believe it was a problem for a couple of years, we just were not aware of it until it was loose enough to start coming apart. When we returned home I got ahold of Dometic and received the following email reply.
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From: CustomerSupportCenter [mailto:customersupportcenter@dometic.com]
Sent: Friday, September 1, 2023 9:46 AM
To: BryanB
Subject: RE: Dometic.com Support Form - US - productsupport - rv - b2c
Hello Mr. Bjornstad:
I was able to reach out to our engineering department.
The engineer indicated the information directly below:
“the bolts used to secure the burner caps are common M3x24mm socket head screws. They can be found at most hardware stores.
He should apply blue Loctite to the screws before putting them in.”
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Yes, there are threads in the underside of the burner caps.
The burner cap is made of 'pot metal' so if the screws are not of the exact sizing and ARE NOT 'Loctite-d' in, they may vibrate out again or worse yet, they may strip (as ours did) out of the soft pot metal burner cap.
There was no indication (blue) of there being any Loctite around our screw heads when we were taking it apart to repair it. So the Loctite comment above may be a revision based upon customer experience.
The following is what we did to fix the issue. We only had one screw per element and no Loctite at the time so we were at a less than ideal situation.
We actually became quite proficient at this and I would be able to do it (less Loctite) as Maggie was doing 'meal prep', so I was done when she needed the stove. That is until the loosening of the screws and vibrating caused the 'burner tube' coming into the mixing bowl to break. At that point the stove was UNSAFE to use. So I put it in the back of the truck, got a brass plug for the gas supply line and covered the area with the 'Oliver supplied' sink cover, and taped that down. That gave us a larger meal prep area, and more outside cooking.
Our final resolution when we returned home (because stove was basically shaken apart) was to replace our D21 (AMZN Dometic outlet), because we were unable to find the replacement parts that broke as a result of the ‘burner caps’ coming loose, and shaking/breaking apart the internals of the stove. When the new stove arrived, I took it apart at the bottom and made sure all 4 screws were there and sure enough, signs of blue Loctite on the screw heads.
I have discussed using Red (hi-heat) Loctite thru PM's with others on the forum.
The caveat is 'if you want it to stay put, Red would not hurt, if you have need to get in there and remove those screws and do other work, Blue would be better'... So I will stick with the Blue for now, as I do not believe that the original stove had any Blue on it. In fact, I do not believe we had two screws in each burner cap to start with. Never did find the two missing screws and I searched the entire enclosure and behind the false back of the drawer area.
We can now look back at it as a learning adventure. Yah, may not take as many 'wash-boardy' roads less travelled, and will probably even go slower than we did... We learned a lot about the Oliver, Appliances (lost the WH too), about repair in remote locations, phone conversations with SeaDawg & Outlaw Oliver, and our own tolerances to experiences when dealing with and overcoming unexpected issues that arise, but GAWD, did we enjoy the adventure even with the adversities.
So much so, WE ARE GOING BACK again this camping season, with the intent to make it to AK this time. Cannot wait to try (after a local shake-down weekend) our new Dometic stove and WH (another thread)... the adventure continues.
B~Out,
First edit, if others end up purchasing a new Dometic D21 Stove... the Brass elbow attached to the stove is now pointed 180 deg. opposite the supply line. So I just disco'd it, put on some YELLOW Teflon tape and then tightened it up to the orientation of the old one, and hooked the gas line back up.
Second edit, Some of your appliances are going to have 'Metric' in them, especially if they are used outside the US. Just be Aware.
Third edit with pics: once you have the stove exposed, you remove the heat shield screws (sm. red circles), notice wht. zip ties..
Your burner cap screws pass thru here (black arrows).
The large red circle is the broken supply tube between control knob & mixing bowl. I tried to get some aluminum tubing to repair it.
Even thought of sacrificing the stem to the coffee pot... I was told, that was NOT an option.