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2008RN

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Posts posted by 2008RN

  1. Considering a 17” or 22” black stone. I have a rear storage container but it only can only hold something that is 20.5 inches front to back.  The online info is greater than 20.5 for both grills.

    Questions:

    1. Does the grease tray come off the back?

    2. If the grease tray does come off how much does the save me in depth?

    fyi: I’m looking at stripped down models without hoods.

  2. 6 minutes ago, hobo said:

    Can you provide the specifics on the Bulldog HD shocks please?

    Thanks, (2 HOBOS) Hull 414

    This bull dog shock is a direct replacement for the Monroe 555001  https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007

    I've only have 300 miles on the Bulldogs shocks,  They are so much better than the Original Monroes.

    I bought the trailer 10 months old with 5K miles on it. The original owner basically made 2 trips. One from the factory to Idaho via California, and another trip back to California.  I followed the trailer for about 40 miles right after we purchased it. I remember thinking it odd that the trailer like to swayed side to side going down the freeway, but then never thought about it again. Then 2 years later and 2,000 miles,  the trailer was moving everywhere on a rougher 2 lane paved road and truck/trailer became difficult the manage. 

    I thought I would give the Bull Dogs a try. The Bull Dogs were the price was about the same as the Monroe 555001 online. Nothing ventured nothing gained. I figured if I bought the Monroes they would be trash in a year to  two years depending on the miles I drove. If the Bulldogs make it 2 years then they will have out lasted the Monroes.

    Next spring I plan on new springs before we take our first big trip cross the nation.

    • Thanks 1
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  3. 7 hours ago, jd1923 said:

     

    @2008RN could you please supply a link to the specs for these shocks? I spent a few minutes searching and all i could find was installation instructions for Monroe shocks by part number.

    There is not a lot of in depth information on the 555025 shocks, but here is a link for the 555025

    https://www.shockwarehouse.com/products/monroe-555025-gasmagnum

    In my searching I found someone that had replaced the 555001 with a Bilsteins 24-064194, B6 series shock.  The following link talks about the installation, and problems that were overcome. It is an interesting read. I searched for the 24-064194 and it appears that Bilstein no longer makes this shock, no one seems to have them available. The down side if you can find them they are very pricey

    https://heartlandowners.org/threads/bighorn-3260el-shocks.59777/

     

    • Thanks 1
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  4. 5 hours ago, jd1923 said:

    Thanks Bill, I'm certain many of us would like to see this. You'll know as soon as you pull one Monroe if they are the same, or something new, hopefully better. Too bad with heavier replacement springs we cannot source a replacement shock with the same ends, same stroke but larger diameter cylinders and pistons.

    When I was looking for replacements for the 555001, I did find a Monroe 555025 RV shock which had a higher rating. The only problem was the minimal compression length was 3/4 of and inch longer and I did not know if it would still work in our application so I opted for the Bull Dog 555001 replacement instead.

    I had found on another site where someone had used the 555025 to replace a 555001 without problems, but it was not for an Oliver

    • Like 1
  5. So sorry for the damage. One of my worst fears is doing what happened to you. We all, or most of us get carried away and make a mistake.  My better half has stop me a couple of times on the steps.  We setup camp in a pouring rain last week. No checklist, just pumped through it to get out of the rain.  I know it is small and minor, but we forgot to turn the fridge back on.  36 hours later the fridge was at 52 degrees and the freezer section was at 30 degrees.  First thing out of my wife's mouth was we are getting to lax and need to be at least checking our work with the checklist.

    Thanks for the saftey reminder, we all need it!

    • Like 2
  6. On 3/22/2024 at 10:36 AM, Geronimo John said:

    Please share with us the Bulldog shock info and assessment after you get some miles on them.

    GJ

    I finally had a chance to try out the Bulldog HD shocks I put on the Oli.  I put 300 miles on them this last week. Most of it was on small 2 lane roads that had some rough areas.  I did go over a 40 mile stretch that I did last September, It made a world of difference. The trailer did not sway all over like it did before.  I could feel the difference in the drivers seat of how the trailer rode. I truely think the shocks  where pretty much shot when I got the trailer 3 years ago and  it was 10 months old at that time. I remember following the trailer for about 20 miles and you could see the top of the trailer swaying side to side about 4-5" going  down the freeway with small road imperfections.  Now on rough roads the sway is less than 2". 

    The price was comparable to online Monroe shocks.  if the Bulldogs last 4 years, I will be happy and buy them again.

    here is the link to where I bought them:  https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007

    FYI: At the same time, I replace the the Oliver's shocks, I replaced the original 1999 shocks on the F250 SD with Bilstein 5100 shocks. The truck does ride a little stiffer but handles what little front to back  movement I get on the trailer better.  I did have to nail the brakes really hard this weekend when someone cut in front of me and then slammed on the brakes.   The TV and camper acted as one, and handled great.

    Now I will go for the Alcan springs sometime in the next year, before we start the long cross country trips.

    • Thanks 3
    • Like 9
  7. 1 hour ago, Dave and Kimberly said:

       This subject has been an "interesting read".   I started when it was only about 10 pages long... reading all of the opinions and results from the beginning.   I want to say thanks to all of you for your hard work and leading the pack on this rather significant upgrade.   I'll be watching to learn how you feel after some road testing, but I suspect its going to feel much better.   

       It's definitely on my list of things I want to do before too long.  We've got better than 20K on the trailer now and despite "most of the time" on reasonable roads I've hit some hard bumps and such and definitely would like the peace of mind from an upgraded suspension system.   I just greased the 16 zerks and noticed the tell-tail marks of the U-bolts hitting the frame on a few occasions.

       PS-  We travel well under the Max of 7k lbs.... until we stop at Costco on the way home where I'm certain we've always exceeded it because the pantry at home was empty.

    Wow! You have a Costco you can park a truck and trailer? Ours is always so packed that I have trouble finding room for the truck.

  8. 3 hours ago, mossemi said:

    I think the material is the same as the trim boards mentioned above which is also available is sheets

    Mossey

    This is what I used with the DC-DC converter setup.  Expanded PVC Foam Board, White, 3/4" (0.75", 19MM) Thick, 12" W x 36" L

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K2YR21N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

    I used the 3/4" thick instead of 1/2" thick so I could have a few more threads on the screws holding things.

     

    • Thanks 1
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  9. 7 hours ago, johnwen said:

    I'm looking for something to glue to the inside lower shell of my trailer to mount (screw) my Victron MPPT controller to.  Anyone know what Oliver uses?  Many items are attached throughout the trailer using that stuff.  It's about 1/2 inch thick and painted? white.  Any help is much appreciated.

    John

    I always Assumed that Oliver used epoxy. It matches so well with the existing fiberglass epoxy that they use in the shell.  They must use tons of the epoxy.  When I installed my DC-DC charger setup.  I used JB weld.  I sand the fiberglass surface and mating Marine board with 60 grit sandpaper. I then roughly cross hatched both surfaces with either a angle grinder with .060 cutoff wheel, or used a dremel.  I just wanted to make sure it was going to get the best possible adherence. Oliver's joints have been known to fail.  I have had 2 joints fail of what Oliver did at the factory.  I don't know if JB weld it any better than their epoxy, but the failed  parts had smooth surfaces. It sure can't hurt to give the surface more to adhere to.

    • Thanks 1
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  10. 3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

     

    IF your Axle Decal looks like this one, You may want to read the rest of the below.  

      image.png.5137222e0caf5fb65d5dbf00f0c99fb4.png

    From what I can figure out, Red Neck Trailers was “Integrated” into Nuera Trans which was “Hoovered Up” into Dexter.  The original Red Neck Trailers is still in business as is Nuera Trans.  All flying the Dexter flag.

    As clearly printed on a Dexter Label, they were made by NUERA TRANS likely in Cookeville Tn.   So don’t waste your time calling Dexter for a "Build Sheet".  The correct terminology is to request the Configuration Info associated with 6339056.  The Dexter Customer Service could not pull up this info.  So instead, call this knowledgeable contact that has been in her job with all three name changes:: 

     

    Christy Gillentine | CSR

    Dexter Distribution Group

    christy.gillentine@dextergroup.com

    direct tel:: (931) 739-4034

     An alternate would be Denise Ameling via E-mail:    <denise.ameling@dextergroup.com>

     Please keep in mind that these contacts are ONLY for NURA TRANS labels axels.  If your label is not like the one above, the regular Dexter Customer Service is by far the way to get your axle info.

     The Nuera Trans Axles (I.E.  Really Red Neck Trailer axles that were sold under the Nuera name) were purchased without springs.  The springs were sent to them for assembly.  They are the Chinese made PR4B springs.  Christi stated that if the springs are flattening out, then they were undersized for the application.  After they flatten out, then they generally fail as was originally reported on our thread.  She stated that the PR4 springs with their thicker steel (2,400 pound rated) would be a better choice. 

     Here is the CONFIG INFO for this Config Number for my rear axle on Hull 342.  If you have the same number on yours, here it is: 

    image.png.ab619e8291cadb6f9819cf9095616dda.png

    Note it states “No Springs, Calculate Leaf Spring Capacity”. 

    GJ

     

     

    Wow, The plot thickens.  I think we could make a Johnny Cash song out of this, trying to figure out what is on our "supposed" Dexter Axles.

  11. @John Welte, The humidity content is horrendous  here in the winter we had so many days this year with greater than 90% humidity. 

    We have a 3 sided metal  RV port with tarps for the doors, so direct rain/snow is not on the Oli. We also can keep the Oli plugged in full time. The outside of the Oli itself during the winter along with the cement floor and the inside walls of the port would get dripping wet with moisture from the humidity.  The first couple of years I  opened the bathroom vent, and then turn the Maxair fan on it's lowest setting and l had the blinds completely open leaving the fan run all winter.  I learned from winter camping out here if we did have constant air flow the insides of the trailer would be wet.

    This last year, I was so busy working on the inside of the trailer, that I left a little electric heater set to around 55 degrees in the Oli and lock the Oli up tight, with all the vents closed.  This year worked much better at lowering the humidity level in the trailer, although the electric bills were higher.

    • Like 1
    • Wow 1
  12. 21 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

    Step 16:  "We oriented them so th grease ole on the wet-bolt faced "UP".  In the forum "Remove Wet Bolt", GAP replied " After talking to Dexter, my conclusion is that the nut had been installed incorrectly.  The little hole that the grease comes out is supposed to be at 3:00 or 9:00 and, turned facing say 6:00 or 12:00, will not dispense grease. 

    Ya that makes sense, greaseing the wet bolts has been a little bit of a pain on my Oli. I can get most to the wet bolts greased while it is setting on the ground, but a couple of them I had to jack up the trailer to remove pressure in order to get them greased.

    • Like 2
  13. 3 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

    Are you sure about the 3 3/8 diameter axle tubes? My 2017 LEII D35 tubes measure exactly 3 inches. The 10 inch brake assembly uses four mounting bolts. If the 2 3/8ths and 3 3/8ths diameter numbers are correct then that would make three different axles used. That doubly reinforces your good suggestion to measure first then order the springs and U bolts.

    My 2020 LEII  also measure within a couple thousands of 3", and I have the same brake assembly as @mountainoliver.

    • Like 1
  14. 2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

    They don't have to. So, why should they?

    I'd say, 2026 or better, before that happens,  if ever.

     

    Supply and demand,  Honda supplies us with what they want and demand we buy it.  Since they are "Honda" people will buy it, just like other big big manufactures like Apple.  BTW, I own both Honda and Apple products, and sometime get frustrated with them both. But the quality is there.

    • Like 1
  15. 1 hour ago, Ronbrink said:

    To @jd1923’s point, my 2020 OLEll has the 3500 LB axles with the described square pattern 4 bolt axle connection.

    D35 axle label confirmation.

    IMG_4640.thumb.jpeg.b22bc7b0a631b1ad06411cfe0fc3a186.jpeg

     

    I also have the D35 Label.   Does that mean that I should not update to the Alcan 2,000# springs.  I run between 6,300 and 6,500 on the scales. I would not mind that little extra stiffness.  I replaced the original Monroe shocks this winter (3 were shot with 8,000 miles on the Oli) with Bulldog HD shocks. I haven't had a chance to take her out on the rougher windy 2 lane roads yet.  Darn, I was really hoping that I was going to have the D52 axles!

    • Like 1
  16. I like that. After living in CO for 48 years, I have shoveled tons of snow in bright sunshine, and several times in shorts and snow boots. In Oregon we usually get only get 1-3 days of snow a year, and 240+ days of gray skies. I kind of forget what the sun looks like or where it is at.  So, I don't have to worry at what angle the sun is to the trailer.

    GO Buffs

  17. 15 hours ago, GAP said:

     Guessed that warm, moist air would rise (like in the atmosphere) and that I could vent through Maxair Fan.  Even mid winter, we would crack the fan cover, not turning on the fan itself unless cooking and it did wonders to cut back on condensation. 

    We have a pretty big problem with winter condensation with humidity often in the high 80s and 90s. We usually do not get below freezing much (except for last week).  We crack the bathroom fan open, and turn on the Maxair to it's lowest setting.  We also keep the heater around 68 during the day and 60 at night. We do end up wiping the inside window  a couple of times a day.

    • Like 3
  18. 15 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

    Concur 100%.  That's why we did it ourselves - it took less than a half-day to configure the Tundra with wires, fuse, and Anderson plug/mount from engine compartment to hitch area.  Took about the same time (maybe a bit less) for the OTT side of the equation.  We used clam hull penetration hardware to introduce the cables into the area below the bathroom sink, underneath and in front of the head, under the forward dinette, to the aft dinette area where we mounted the DC/DC charger.

    Screenshot2024-01-12at07_30_39.thumb.png.220dd27a872d98cc58b6fd7abf479440.png

    Note:  In bulk charge mode this particular charger kicks off some heat.  We've been leaving the aft seat hatch off while towing to better circulate air around the cooling fins of the charger.  There's a ton of YouTube videos of how some RV fabricators attach cooling fans.  As described and photographed earlier, having two of these bad boys in close proximity will create some serious heat and auxiliary fans would definitely be helpful.

    As of this post, currently boondocking just south of Elephant Butte Lake SP waiting for the temps to rise above freezing before heading off to "The Q" - planning for a mid-afternoon arrival in the Sonoran Desert where its been above freezing temps for a few weeks now.  

    FYI:  OATs here last night dropped to 20F.  Starting a 10pm last night with 96% SOC, ran the furnace and water heater all night and woke up at 5am to a 78% SOC.  Not too bad....  I'm expecting to have 100% SOC by the time we hit Benson, AZ, with the DC/DC charger cranking +/-30A/14.4vDC into the BBs.

    Cheers!

     

    I never thought about mounting at 90 degrees.  The was a great idea for mounting the charger using that little space.  I also like hearing about the real world experience.  I am hoping that my test for an hour in a closed compartment, will be relevant in the real world. If I do have problems  with heat, I could try opening the deck plate to see if I could get little air flow in there.

  19. 3 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

    30 feet of 2awg red + 30 feet of 2AWG black will cost nearly $250. 60 feet of each would be about $470. The wire is not cheap, but I suspect that it is the labor that is tearing you a new one. Is there any reason you wouldn't want to do it yourself. I am about to do the same thing and I was figuring well under $1000 for materials. I can't afford the labor fee I would charge. The job is not technical or particularly difficult, but it is time consuming to do it correctly and there's not a lot of folks I'd trust to do this job like I would want it done.

     

    My project was little more expensive.  with Victron dual chargers, wire, alternator, shunt and miscellaneous like Anderson connecters, buss bars, breakers, fuses, wire sheathing, battery shut off, and lugs, heat shrink, crimper...    I think my total cost approximated $1900.  I pulled the fuel tank to properly run the wire in the frame rail something RV solar installer probably would not have done.  I Ran wire sheathing on all cable except the actual board with the chargers. Anything that had any rub potential was covered.  I ran a jumper cable between the truck and Oliver so that If I didn't need to charge while traveling I just wouldn't hook it up. Also makes it clean when parking. The  Official Anderson connectors are not cheap, (knock offs are available).

    My cost would have been a lot less if I knew ahead of time the new Victron 50Amp charger was coming out. I could have lived with the 50Amp efficient DC-DC charger.  I planned on a max of 100 amps input from the truck to run the amps, with my testing I maxed out at 88-89 Amps. With the new 50Amp charger I would bet 60Amp max input would be need, and I would wire for 70 Amps.  That would have cut down on all cost of virtually every item and probably cut cost by about $500. 

    Just an FYI I bought 47' (x2) of wire to run from the front of my F250 extended cab with 8' bed to just aft of the of the Oli battery bank. I had about 2' extra of each red, and black wire.   Also as a side note, I bought wire from battery cables usa. I got the extreme battery cable. Very fine wire like welding cable. double sheathing (hard intercore and flexible outercore. Also the inside Copper wire OD was larger than spec.  I like the extra safety margin with slightly lower Ohms and more carrying capacity. I only thing is that on 1/0 to 4/0 wires it was almost a press fit( it takes force to put the wire in the lug. I just couldn't strip the sheathing back and put the lug on.  I had to use a 2 step process. 

    • Like 2
  20.  

    3 hours ago, mossemi said:

    I just saw this YouTube video about the new Victron 50A DC-DC  charger by Nate and Steph of EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers.  It might be worth the wait!

    Mossey

    https://youtu.be/ByhIxhA-x8M?si=54SM0UL8sDgV3KJm

    Very Cool,  Unfortunately I'm a day late and a dollar short. I had everything built a week ago besides the chargers added. I purchased the chargers last Friday, installed them Saturday and tested today.  It would have simplified my whole design. Smaller wires, no fans, and simplified and smaller foot print.

    Here is what my install looked like. I epoxied a 1/2" marine white board to the  wheel well. Attached everything to a piece of 3/4" marine board and then attached the 3/4" board to the 1/2" board.  Space was definitely at a premium.  My test showed each charger at 38Amps before warm up. After one hour one charger was  34Amps at 96degrees F, and the orther 32.5 amps @ 100degrees F.  Victron rates the 12-12/30 at 104 degrees F. Anything over 104F the Amps decrease below 30 F. I have heard as low as 25 degrees F

    each pair of fans positive lines are connected to the Optifuse breaker. So I can turn off either of the chargers and associated fans from the other charger.

    IMG_2096.thumb.jpg.49814db4fb97993f690937046ad4f6ad.jpg

     

    This is the  1/2 base.

    IMG_2086.thumb.jpg.3ed346bac63f6f65fa3115f39bc05d65.jpg

     

    • Like 2
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