2008RN
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Posts posted by 2008RN
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40 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:
I didn't find check valve in the outside inlet. Maybe it is the fitting on the tank. And yes I have physically laid eyes on the inside tubing under the front dinette seat. It is routed back behind tank then makes the turn along the front wall, the the tube returns back and turns around the back of the tank and back up to the the tanks flush inlet. I always figured they put other flush port on the opposite side of the tank. It wasn't until today when I saw the diagram when I saw it just loop backs. When I was looking under the front Dinette seat I wondered what they just didn't tee off in the dinette compartment if the were going to plumb another flush port. Now I am just wondering why go to all the trouble to add around 8" foot extra tubing?
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On 3/24/2021 at 10:07 AM, NCeagle said:
I've only used that brand of pump a few times now and it seems fine - comparable to others I've had in the past. This particular one does have parts / kits available to repair it, but ones I've had in the past just had the motor die after a few years of pretty heavy use before anything else broke. I use it for different things around the house. Examples are transferring water from rain buckets to my pool (a lot) or getting water off of my boat cover when it caves in and turns into a pool 😁. A rainproof switch with a permanent, long cord would be SUPER NICE (and smart too) - right now I just unplug it from an extension cord coming out of the exterior 120V receptacle on the curb side. Definitely don't want to be standing in a puddle! It does get warm when I run it for extended periods - like 20 minutes or so transferring water from rain buckets - so I give it time to cool down when needed.
I didn't think pictures of this setup would be interesting, but I stand corrected! Next time I have it set up I'll update this post with a few if someone doesn't beat me too it. 😉
Sorry, I know this a long time after the original posts. I just finished my Composting Toilet install. I really like this idea of a temporary transfer pump that does not really affect the rest of the pumping system. I have been looking at Amazon for pumps. There is a shurflo 3 gpm pump 4008-101-A65, and a Shurflo Strainer 255-313. I do have a couple of questions.
1. This is about the Black tank flush system. I noticed that there is no check valve in the garden hose inlet. Is a check valve needed? I also looked at the plumbing diagram in the owners manual. It shows the tubing looping clear back around the back of the tank and then back to the side where it enters the tank. What would be the reason not to just going directly to the tank?
2. Could you use the Zamp external charger connection in the side of the Oli for a 12V supply?
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We went through the same thought process. I spent over a year investigating the Oliver before starting to put together the finances. We feel truly blessed to have an Oliver. Enjoy the journey!
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I am wanting to get a rear view Camera. I know that Oliver sells the Furrion Vision S, The Furrion seems to be the defacto on RV/trailers. I have talked with other friends with non-Oliver campers. So far a common themes are connection issues, large lag of video. Before I just go out and spend the money on a Furrion I want to make sure it will actually work properly. What is everyones experience with their Furrion?
I also saw another camera, Haloview. Has anyone installed a Haloview on their Oliver? Some of Haloview products have a installation much like the Garmin where the Camera communication antenna is wired to the front of trailer, to shorten the distance and interfering walls to talk with the monitor. This greatly decreases lag times and stops connection issues/dropped signal.
What other brands has anyone used? successfully?
I would prefer to not to have to do a hardware from the cab monitor all the way back to the camera. I am also driving an older Ford SuperDuty without the newer camera solutions.
Thanks.
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Thanks NCeagle and Minnesota Oli for your ideas and feedback. I love the idea of making the Oli able to handle the colder weather a little better. I have a November trip planned out to the coast, I should be able to experience cooler weather in the Oli. I want to go back in January to do some storm watching. I would really like to do something by January.
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I Just keep coming up with questions! With the way Minnesota Oli heated the inner hull areas, would this decrease the amount of condensation inside the cabin (living area)?
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I more question. I used my last open fuse slot in the 12V side for my composting toilet. If I added heat tape I could increase fuse amperage in the fuse slot I just used and the split off the back side of the panel and put a heat tape fuse and compost fuse under the rear kitchen seat area. If I wanted to add a switch for the heat tape how and where would be the best place to add a switch? How hard would it be to run line to the area above the rear kitchen seat where the truma controller, sea level tank monitor, and inverter controller are located?
Sorry if these are dumb questions, I have a lot to learn all about my new Oli. The wiring is just one area out of many areas that I have not wrapped my mind around.
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Minnesota Oli and NCeagle,
Very informative write ups. I have been thinking about this topic for several days with the new interest in Cold weather camping. I will probably never see the temps like that in Oregon, but I will still see temps regularly below freezing.
I have just installed a compost toilet, and disconnected and drained the Regular toilet line, and do not have to worry about that, or the black tank.
I do have a few questions:
Minnesota Oli:
1. Did you leave the ends of the flexible heating pipe open?
2. Was the only other opening the hole in the straight pipe, or did you poke any holes in the heating pipe around where the check valve are at?
3. Where did you source the mounting bracket holding the straight tube below the battery compartment?
NCeagle:
Was the smart bilge fan 12v or 120V?
For both of you, and anyone else:
Both of the ideas that sound like they would work great while parked. I think the heating tape would work while on the road. I have a Truma water heater. I am not sure about leaving the heater and Truma gas on while on the road in order to keep everything warm while traveling. Any ideas?
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We are with State Farm for all of our vehicles. I gave the itemized list of options with the total cost from Oliver, State Dam said they would use this as a base cost. They are charging $240 per year with a $1000 deductible.
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Thanks everyone for the info
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I just had another thought. Is the switch in the bathroom for the pump really necessary? It seems redundant with the pump switch on the SeaLevel II Tank Monitor. I could just use the present pump switch in the bathroom for a Compost fan switch.
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Does anyone know a source for the bathroom waterproof switch. There are 2 switches; the pump switch and the light switch under the cabinet. I was thinking about putting in a switch to turn the composting toilet fan on/off.
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I bought the Camp Chef 2 burner this summer, and it works great. you need to quick connect fitting with a Female pipe thread, and a quick connect hose. The regulator will screw right off, leaving a male 1/4 in pipe thread I believe. The quick connect fitting will end up sticking out about 2" inches from the side on the stove.
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Interesting, yes it looks they used 2 flanges, one on each side. thanks for the pictures, Gives me more ideas.
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5 hours ago, John E Davies said:
Cut a larger round hole around the flange with a fine blade, not a wood blade. The regular toilet is not supported by the floor right at that location, nor is the NH toilet. love Dewalt tools, but I have reservations about the more expensive barrel grip jigsaw. It is lovely to use but overheats and shuts off very quickly, maybe the standard one is better. But for quick holes it is perfect.
Please don’t lay steel tools directly on the gelcoat, that scratches it! Use the heavy 3M blue masking tape (not duct tape - too sticky) at the area you are cutting, and put down an old towel or some scrap cardboard where you put your tools. Vacuum very often. If you can, set up your shop vac so the hose is right there at the cut and leave it running while you are generating dust - it tends to drift everywhere otherwise. CAREFULLY sand the cut with 80 grit paper and wear disposable gloves - the glass shards will break off in your fingers and since they are glass and transparent they can be horrible to remove, unlike a wood splinter. Been there, it is not fun…. A dust mask is advisable but not at all necessary if you have the vac going.
Don’t forget to disconnect and cap the fresh water line under the sink, that will save winterization hassles. Remove the ball valve entirely so the floor is clear back there. Glue down a white plastic hole plug. Or leave that circuit in place if you think a future owner might want it. But I would take it out and put the parts in a big zip bag along with the old flush toilet parts.
Have fun. Overland took his tank out completely and chopped a huge hole in the floor for storage, I am sure he will chime in here.
This is optional but I do recommend that you remove the black flush line and fittings, unless you plan to repurpose the tank for additional grey water storage (transfer it in with a portable 12 volt pump.)
Edit, I have been wondering how to cut the flange off. This should work.
John Davies
Spokane WA
John,
I was looking at your posting on the NH install. The exhaust tubing flange I received is flat on one side and has the hub on the other for attaching the tube. Is the the same flange that you have? Did you pipe into the plumbing exhaust? if how?
The tubing fits a 1-1/4" white PVC pipe. I was going to Tee into the trailer waste exhaust ABS with the white PVC. I could cut a 1-3/4" hole in the side of the cabinet and then chalk back around the PVC pipe (1.675 OD). It isn't the cleanest install with the PVC pipe, but I couldn't figure out how to make the install work with the flange they sent me.
Edit, Added picture:
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After waiting 3 month for my natures head toilet, I 'm now starting the conversion. I removed the toilet. But now I'm scratching my head how to get the mounting collar off of the Black tank. I have read that you can remove the waste plumbing and put a cap on the tank. I was able to twist and pry the collar up about a half inch which took over 1 hour worth of work to get it this far. I was hoping the collar was screwed into a fitting, but it does not to appear to be.
I have tried to access the top of the tank from the kitchen seat, and from inside the bathroom cabinet. There is not enough room to get my fingers on to the top of the tank.
Any help/ideas?
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Thanks everyone, Seeing this post was God sent.
So we are out camping/ boondocking for the first time ever in the Oli. I tested all of the other systems at home accept the truma.
I flip the switch on the on the truma in the outside bay. No hot water. We spent last night without hot water. I looked all over for a gas shutoff for the truma, I could hear the the igniter try to start, but didn’t get hot water.
How I didn’t pay attention to the 2.5”x3” controller on the wall beats me.
I saw this post the first thing I logged on the forum. So I looked at the main switch panel; No switch. Then over to the systems control area by the pantry, and there it was. Now I can get cleaned up with hot water!
BTW, we went all night and the AGM batteries only got down to 12.7. That included a little heat and a movie. But now I’m off topic.
take care everyone.
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When We purchased our Oli in April 2021, The owner of the Oliver brought it to the bank and The bank wired the money to his account. The bill of sale was notarized, and then the old owner delivered it to our house ( We did have a truck to tow it). That day we found a good deal on a low mile diesel F250 and paid in $100 bills. Had the bills still in the wrappers and the receipt from the bank from pulling out the funds.
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Thanks for the ideas
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I am in the middle of building a frame for a storage unit that will bolt on were the bicycle rack is. I would like it mimic the finish on the support structure so it matches the rest of the aluminum on the Oli. Does anyone know how Oliver does the finish on the aluminum.
Thanks,
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On 7/17/2021 at 7:53 PM, John E Davies said:
One other comment, antiseize on stainless threads prevents the nut from welding itself (seizing) to the bolt. I had to remove the big 1/2” bumper main bolts to do a mod, one nut was seized solid and I had to literally snap the bolt with a 3/4” breaker bar.
John Davies
Spokane WA
John,
I just received my aluminum for the frame, and was going to un-bolt the old receiver rack supports. From what you wrote, I decided to spray the bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it set overnight to hopefully advert some of the problems with the stainless bolts seizing. I went out with a couple of 18" breaker bars to get the bolts off. I was already thinking of what steal tubing I had to make a extension for the breaker bars. The first nut I tried virtually had no pressure on it so I dropped back to a ratchet. I had to laugh, I'm guessing that there was less than 25 in/lbs of torque on all of those those nuts. I'm Fortunate that the receiver assembly just didn't fall off.
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Congrats things really worked out. I know we are blessed to get our Oli
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John Davies, Seadog,
Thanks for the insights.
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I am in the process of designing a holder on the back of the Oli something a kin to what John E Davies did only using a Semi underbelly storage box for storing stuff. I have the New style bicycle rack receiver on the back of my Oli. I decided to pull of the bike rack receiver and it was full of water inside of the tube. When I turned it upside down water came gushing out. ie: the bottom half was water tight. The old is now 1 year old, and has spent the last 3 months outside. (I just got my permit and engineered plans back from the county so I can start on a 3 sided RV port.)
The rack had only seen about a month of rain here, and what ever washing to had in the last year to fill the aluminum cavity with water. For those that have a bike rack hitch. You may want to check your rack. If I was to keep the rack I would drill a couple of holes on the bottom to allow water out.
Back to the subject. This got me thinking about galvanic corrosion using SS bolts/washers/against the 6061-T6 aluminum. It does not look like Oliver has done anything to offset the Galvanic corrosion. Am I making to big of a deal about this?
What have other people done to mitigate the dissimilar metal?
Also I have some 7000 series aluminum lying around that I thought about using for backing plates. I think that the Semi storage box is probably either 3000 or 5000 series, but I am just guessing. The structural aluminum I will uses will be 6061-T6. Do you have to worry about Galvanic corrosion between differing series of Aluminum?
The mother of all toilet disasters
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks for sharing, finished installing NH last month and I want to use the black tank for additional storage