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GAP

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Posts posted by GAP

  1. We have an E2, hull # 701.picked up in mid December. Just trying our air conditioner for the first real test.  As soon as it started up, we could hear what sounded like the impeller was in contact with something that caused a loud noise.  Seems like the blades are still turning but contacting something they are not supposed to be hitting.  I looked at the AC material supplied by Oliver but there is no model ID info.  I tried to call the company directly but their initial phone message stated that customers needing tech support need to have the model and serial number.

    -  does anyone know where to find that information?

    -  has anyone had a similar issue and, if so, how did you deal with it?

    We are happy to open the housing to see what there is to see.  Hopefully an easy fix but not sure whether to lift the shroud from the top of the camper or if there is a way to see the guts from inside.

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. On 2/8/2021 at 8:50 PM, Ray and Susan Huff said:

    Note: I seem to recall discussion regarding heating the bathroom . . . .  but can't find it with "Search" function.   

    We just returned from our first real outing in our 2021 Elite II, spending three nights at a nearby park we frequently visit.  When shore power is available, unless it is extremely cold, we use a small space heater to keep the cabin warm.  However . . . . . our inexpensive little heater has decided to quit working.  So, we resorted to using the furnace.  Here are some first impressions:

    The furnace is amazing . . . . it's the same we had in our Leisure Travel Van, but so much quieter.  Most likely because of where it is located (not right under the dinette seat, as in the LTV).

    There seemed to be plenty of heat/airflow coming from the vent under the bed; not so much in the galley.  Then we noticed some fins behind the louvered vent (sort of like a camera shutter).  They were pretty much closed on the kitchen vent.  Are they supposed to automatically open as air flows through the vent?  We had to manually open them; this resulted in good heat/air in the galley.

    The furnace did a great job of keeping the bathroom warm; not toasty warm (hey, we're camping!),  but it did make a big difference.

    We kept the thermostat off while we were away from camp, to conserve LP.  The cabin takes very little time to warm up once the furnace is turned back on.  

    Unless it is extremely cold, we will not use the furnace at night.  For one, the noise wakes me up.  Two, we have down sleeping bags.  

    We have not yet programmed the thermostat for blue-tooth operation, but it would be nice to turn on the heat before getting out of a warm sleeping bag.

    The vent under the galley is supposed to allow for manual adjustment.  One of the fins on ours was out of true so Jason from the shop told us how to realign.  Basically, you stick a finger through the outer grate and pull as it is meant to just pop off.  The vents were easy to pop back in their tracks after.  We have closed ours entirely and turned to rear vent to blow air towards the galley.  Plenty warm to fill the cabin.  This allows more heat to make it to the bathroom

    • Thanks 1
  3. On 1/20/2021 at 2:14 PM, Ray and Susan Huff said:

    Keep us posted as to what Jason finds out about the Xantrex settings with the Lithium Pro package.

    I have not heard any updates from Jason but was going to reach out to see what's up on his end.  We are going on a trip to New Hampshire for a few days of skiing.  Should be plenty of chance to continue testing my new settings.  Will share anything of value that I come up with.  

    • Thanks 1
  4. The adjustments to the Xantrex setting are quick and easy to do.  Their instructions manual is intimidatingly long and certainly contains this information.  In my case, I called them directly to ask about my overload issues with the generator and under voltage shut down of the Xantrex and they walked me through the rest.  When I discussed this process with Jason at Oliver, he seemed interested and planned on following up with Xantrex to find out if my settings were a one off.  

    My thought is that if you are not having a similar problem, there's nothing to worry about.  If you are having the same problems, the adjustments are easy to do and either Xantrex or filing a ticket with Oliver should get things right.  With the lithium system in our trailers being so new, I am not surprised that things required tweaks and was reassured (so far) to experience how easy it was to make adjustments.  Over the next few days, I plan on running the battery level down lower and seeing how the under voltage cut off setting works.  Will report back if further adjustment was required.

    To reiterate my tweaks:         Tweak #1:  The Xantrex charging rate was at "factory setting" running at 24 amps.  My 2200 generator cannot supply that much for more than a short time so I adjusted down to 18 amps which is still high for running rate on that generator but has held for a full half hour of charging. If plugged into shore power and on a 20 amp (household type) circuit, 24 amps of charge would be too high anyhow but again, the new 18 amp setting seems fine.     Tweak #2:  My low voltage cut off (setting off alarm and a temporary shut down) was set to a battery level of 12.6 volts.  Again, this was described to me as "factory setting".  After asking for specs on my lithiums, I was instructed to adjust down to 10.5 volts.  That held well with the batteries at around 50% and I'll experiment with them at a lower level.  Tested with microwave, which was continuously causing a shut down, and all held well.

    Caveat:  This is all way above my pay grade.  It is probably prudent to file a ticket with the Oliver shop to get feedback and ascertain if your settings and situation are different then mine.    Hope this info is helpful.

    • Thanks 2
  5. 12 hours ago, NCeagle said:

    I've thought about the need for a 30 Amp generator - thinking primarily that I'd be able to charge the Lithiums faster - however, that's not true in our case.  Our 3000 watt inverters are configured to charge the Lithiums at 100 Amps, which requires about 11 amps of 120V power, so a single Honda/Yamaha 2200 is plenty of generator to charge the batteries at full speed.  In fact, a generator that can deliver 15 amps sustained at 120 volts can deliver ~150 amps (in theory) sustained at 12 volts.  Your 1800W toaster will require (1800W / 12V) nearly 150 amps, which a single 2200 can also support.  Just don't charge your batteries and run your toaster oven at the same time unless you have 30 Amps - and even then it's gonna be borderline for something like a charger and a toaster oven.

    Bottom line - I don't see the pressing need for more than a small, 2200 Watt generator at this time - and whether or not it has a 30 Amp plug is not a differentiator when it comes to generators.

    Actually, I recently went deep down the rabbit hole of charging the lithiums vs running AC based items (AC, radar range, toaster) by having a long talk with an awesome tech at Xantrex.  May be an issue for another chain but...

    Turns out that the Xantrex charger is set up to prioritize feeding AC product first and does so by shutting off lithium charging till your AC done with.  This is supposedly true whether you are plugged into shore power or running a generator.  The tech also pointed out that the factory settings on the Xantrex is set up with shore power in mind so she hand held me through the none too intimidating process of making a couple of tweaks.  One was adjusting the charging rate.  Factory setting is to draw power at 24amps for charging which is too much for my 2200 Honda generator.  Temporarily turned that down to 18amps which, so far, has worked perfectly.  Had previously overloaded my generator a number of times while charging with no other AC based draw.    Second tweak was adjusting the battery overload auto shut off which was set for something like 12.6 volts.  She said that too high of a cut off so we adjusted down to 10.5v.  I had been having occassional auto shut offs with an alarm an low voltage warning when using my microwave and the lithiums being at 75% charge. Since making this change, I've had no problem running the microwave at it's highest power draw and have tested with batteries down to 50%.  Will test at some point with a lower battery charge level as the lithiums are good to drain effectively down to nearly flat.  

    • Thanks 5
    • Like 1
  6. Marine shops offer plenty of products to do this.  For my fiberglass kayaks, which are similarly finished in gelcoat, I keep a couple of products on hand.  I have a fiberglass rubbing compound, light duty, which is good for buffing out minor scratches and scuffs.  After use, the surface has a dull shine to it.  Also have a finishing polisher/wax which brings back the original, high gloss shine.  If there are scratches that need deeper attention, I will hit the area lightly with sandpaper as needed.  I may start with a middle grade such as 120 or 150, than go over it with 400 than move one to wet sanding with 800 and, if a critical spot, will finish by wet sanding with 1200.  Than onto compound and finish with the polisher/wax.  I've brought beat up hulls back to factory finish by doing this.  Plenty of instructionals on youtube as well.

    • Like 1
  7. On 1/14/2021 at 12:22 PM, John E Davies said:

    If you have a volt ohm meter it should be very easy to check. if you have a clamp-on (inductive) ammeter like this .... Uni-T B4Q094 UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp M W Capacitance Tester ... it take all of thirty seconds. and you can use it for testing the electric brakes, or any circuit where you can access a single wire (not a bundle). It is excellent and I highly recommend it.

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    I do have a clamp on meter but on a quick glance, saw no single runs off the heating pad to be able to wrap around to check for load.  Will have to take another look.  the tail that runs to the negative is a double so I would assume that covers the led on the on/off switch.  I believe there  is a single that runs to the positive.  

  8. Thanks on that John.  I'll keep an eye out to see your update.

    I've been camping in the cold here in New England a couple of times since getting my E2.  As far as I can tell, after a number of tests, the battery heating pad is having zero effect on the battery internal temps.  It may be that the light is on but no one's home - meaning that the battery pad light works but not the pad itself.  Even after hours at around freezing temps, there is no effect and I cannot feel any difference on the bottom of the battery tray.  Will eventually figure out if the pad is the problem but, either way, feel it is worth it to be able to do as you suggest and be able to condition air in the battery box by sharing flow through from the cabin.

    • Thanks 1
  9. On 12/22/2020 at 7:43 PM, John E Davies said:

    Exactly, I will wait on choosing an exact location until I receive the unit (back ordered for a month). It will probably go under the rear bed, on the inside of the fender well, a little aft of the inverter. I am going to be mounting some other heat generating devices (one for sure, possibly two, MPPT solar controllers) in that area and also near the existing PD converter. One major concern is cooling air, where does all that extra heat go? Those compartments are quite isolated in terms of air movement. They get hot in the summer and cold in the winter. I am going to add 4 inch round inlet vents at floor level, a computer cooling fan under the battery box, holes in the battery box, and additional exit vents up high, in an attempt to “condition” those spots. Keep the chargers cool, keep the new lithium batteries cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

    This should move enough air (38 cfm), it is super quiet and it sips power (70 milliamps):

     

    C050C77E-E120-4B3E-BAA5-E738C1C09DE8.thumb.jpeg.1527c0302aa69b4575543bca2d86de9d.jpeg

     

    I prefer this approach to just ducting furnace heat over on that side, and hoping it gets where it should go. Furnace air does nothing at all to reduce the electronics heat load in summer..... I think this makes more sense than using an electric heating pad under the batteries.

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Sounds like a great and worthwhile project, John.  I can almost wrap my brain around the approach.  Question is that you mentioned it will assist in cooling the battery box in summer and heating it better in the winter.  The former makes immediate sense but I can't picture why the latter would work.  Is the assisting heat source going to drawing ambient air into the box from the under street side bed area and, if not, what type of dedicated heat source were you considering?

    Thanks much,

    GAP

  10. On 12/17/2020 at 3:01 PM, John E Davies said:

    Hi Don, it is nice to hear from you. There have been a few threads about this recently. That document is fine as far as it goes, but it isn’t really adequate for an Ollie with its rear mounted batteries. The cable length from TV battery to hitch to Oliver batteries is too far for small 6AWG cable and connectors, though that size should be adequate for batteries mounted on the tongue. And the Ollie adds the problem of how you route the big cables through the hull wall and floor. Feasible, but rather time consuming.... 

    They recommend that you have a professional install the terminals, that is entirely unnecessary since Powerwerx sells the crimp and insertion tools. Do it yourself now, and you will be able to repair it yourself later..... 

    How did this setup work with your Conquerer? Post some pictures of your trailer please, it is allowed 😬

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    This seems like a super attractive add on.  If I understand the results, the thought of running the fridge DC while underway, would be fantastic.  We just picked up our new E2 and were on the road with it for a couple of weeks.  Was surprised to see how much power the fridge used while running on DC even with the lithium package.  Winter sun is too low to replace that amount of power and truthfully, I'd expect that even summer sun on a clear day would produce enough power to do so.  I'll search the forum to see chains on this subject.  John, do you have a suggested gauge wire to run from TV battery? 

  11. On 11/22/2020 at 3:17 PM, John E Davies said:

    I have a huge level mounted on the front, I try to position the trailer so it is dead level left to right, by moving forward or backward a few feet, then adjust the other way if needed. You can see the level from the drivers seat, it is much easier than that teeny bubble on top of the tongue jack. Ideally you don’t need to do anything else, if the tongue is a few inches low you can raise it and the TV up without unhitching. If the back is low, use the rears.  I really prefer not using any jacks at all, and leaving everything fully hooked up. It saves lots of time, and in an emergency you can hightail it out with minimal delay.

    If you do this, flag the gear shift with something bright, to remind you to raise any jacks before leaving. You really don’t want to drive with them near the ground...l

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Hey John,

    Per your suggestion, I picked up a Level Master level.  Similar to your sage, the first one arrived with a leak.  The second one looks clean but, both have a pretty decent sized air bubble in the tube.  Is that just the way they are or did the second somehow spring a leak as well?

    Thanks

  12. 7 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

    I haven't looked any further into it than noticing this in their  marketing copy "Pair RV 890 with our BC™ 35 wireless backup cameras (sold separately) or compatible third-party wired cameras to help you can see what’s behind you."

    So what I wonder  is, and haven't found in a fairly  quick  hunt, is what constitutes a "compatible third party wired camera" and for  instance could you  use a Rear View Systems camera (excellent IME and used by a lot  of fleet vehicles fwiw)? 

    While on the subject, does anyone have the rear view option that comes with the trailer.  We went that way and, as we have not yet done our pick up, I'm wondering if it is wired into the back up lights or is always on?  Hoping it's the latter.

    Gerry

  13. 21 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

    December 3-4, we'll be in Missouri headed to Tennessee.  Will be at Oliver Monday, December 7;  Camping at David Crockett Monday/Tuesday nights.

    Favorable weather is allowing us to take I-80 eastward.  We hope to return via I-40.  No set return schedule, but we would like to be home before Christmas.

    Will look for you on the road.  

    Ours will be ships passing in the night.  We'll be on the road already by the time you get to Oliver.  Will have to meet you some time down the line.  Hope everything goes really well for you guys and that you have a great trip.

  14. Interesting timing on this discussion.  As things stand now, the fed solar tax credits are phasing out.  If my memory is accurate, 2019 and before allowed for a 30% credit.  2020 goes down to 26% and 2021 is 19%.  Could be a good time to do a cyber Monday upgrade!!!

  15. 9 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

    Packing up . . . . leaving in 32 hours!

    Fantastic for you guys.  What days are you going to be in the campground?  We are doping our tutorial on the 3rd and will be there December 3-4.  Decided to take 2 days at the campground to run through everything thoroughly.  Let us know if we'll overlap.  Could have a socially distanced adult beverage - or two.

  16. On 11/20/2020 at 7:25 PM, BackofBeyond said:

    All you absolutely need is payment. 

    Leveling thingies:

    https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

    I use these - they are very good for the $$

    If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you.  Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface.   

    I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more.

    RBt

    I have a pair of under tire levelers similar to the Anderson wedges.  They too are built to be cut down, if needed, to fit between the tires on the Elite 2.  The overall length is 15" so pretty much the same as the Anderson's.  Does anyone know if there is a need to cut these down and, if so, by how much?  I am picking up our Oliver in just a few days and prefer to do that surgery at home.

  17. Good info John.  I am probably going with Progressive as well so it helps to know that one can decline the RA for the trailer.  We are doing the same policy as you with AAA.  Also good to know that one can cancel their call if you find a quicker tow source on your own and try to get reimbursed for those expenses.  Our customer service person stated that those attempts sometimes get denied.

     

    • Thanks 1
  18. 9 hours ago, BackofBeyond said:

    With the progressive unit, and all the checks it does on the incoming power, there are also a few issues that arise due to its level of protection. One we are all aware of is the grounded neutral needed for many gen sets, another is under/over voltage protection. I have an older, larger generator on the farm, I use for various activities. The Oliver will not run on this unit due to high voltage - its just over the cutoff of the Progressive. I have also been at a few sites where the voltage was at the low end - and under load - cycled the AC unit.  I have not run into a variable cycle/hertz issue - but if a place ran off of a larger generator it could happen - I'm referring to a RV park out in the middle of the Yukon. 

    Due to cautious nature of the folks on this forum, and their many suggestions to  keep problems at bay , I do a few things - many in the RV world probably don't. Frankly - my worry is about the power at campgrounds - you can never assume it is correct - I have found some really bad situations at a few RV parks - and as  GAP mentioned - you can move sites if there is an issue. Additionally - water pressure should also be something you check and regulate.  

    I don' t know the lower and upper limit of the progressive unit - you can refer to your manual - newer models may be different. 

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    I'm not surprised to hear about these problems being common.  The overvoltage from an older generator may be able to be regulated if there is a manual throttle or by using an appropriately sized dimmer/rheostat in line.  The former is easy if it already exists and the latter is pricey unless you already own.  

    Undervoltage in areas at campgrounds is probably the norm.  The further you push power through a line, the more power is lost.  As I understand it, low gauge (thicker) wire offers less resistance and carriers electricity better and further but costs much more.  Even a relatively simple multi meter can test for voltage and hertz.  If shore power is supplied by a generator that is not well maintained, the hertz (60 cycles) can be off and delicate electronics hate that.  Should be protected by the on board "surge protector" .  If the power in a campground comes off the pole, over/under voltage, reversed polarity and/or open ground is easy enough to detect using the set up Mountainlover and John describe above but the Hertz should be fine.

    My plan is to test to allow moving to another site - if that is an option.  There is always the chance that otherwise clean power can go awry after hooking up but that is where a good surge protector proves it's value.  If using one at the pedestal (as opposed to an on-board, in-line model) it is worth noting that it offers auto shut off for all the maladies described above.  They are pricey but can help avoid a story with a sad faced ending.

  19. On 10/10/2020 at 2:32 PM, Susan Huff said:

    Personally, we only consider extended warranties for vehicles with complex electronic components/drive trains where repairs are likely to be costly.  We have a BMW X5 with a diesel engine.  Better than average quality/build/reliability, but repairs cost an arm and a leg.  We do purchase the warranty, but this is, as you say, a gamble.  Historically our warranty cost has paid off.  When the screen on our 2015 BMW X5 nav sys began failing, the cost to replace would have been around $3,000 parts and labor.  Even after paying the $250 deductible, we broke even on the extended warranty.  

    As for an Oliver, there is no drive train to fail.  Of installed components, the appliances are most apt to be problematic.  You can, however, get extended warranties on many of them (this used to be the case. Check with Dometic, et al.)  I feel the one or two year warranty on most equipment will cover any manufacturing defects and early life failures.  In the long run, you are better off paying for any eventual repairs.  It depends on whether peace of mind is worth paying up front.

    After doing some additional research, we are taking your advice to heart on the extended warrantee stuff.  Seems like it's better in this circumstance just to "self insure" especially considering the reasons you've listed above.

    Doing homework now on a policy to cover the Oliver.  Have a couple of quotes but it's hard to find good suggestions as travel trailer insurance seems to be a different animal than typical RV insurance.  Anyhoo, looking at Progressive, Good Sam and Farmers so just in going through the process, we should come up to speed.  Of course, any/all suggestions are welcome.

    One thing we've come across are multiple suggestions that we get an additional roadside assistance policy even if one is offered by the insurance policy on the trailer.  The thought is that the specialized roadside companies do that best and offer more complete coverage including potentially covering associated costs like having to stay in a hotel, rent a car, towing longer distances, etc...  Seems like AAA may be the way to go there.

    Thanks for the input.  Hope your maiden voyage next month goes well.

     

  20. 23 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

    GAP- 

    Not a "silly question" at all.  Perhaps I should have been a bit more clear - my surge protector is not portable - it is the one sold by Oliver and permanently installed in my Oliver.

    The quick and simple answer to your question is that basically you are correct.  I too wonder, sometimes, why I take those extra steps even though it really doesn't take very long to perform them.  Bottom line is that JD is not the only member of this Forum that could be considered to have "anal" tendencies.  Yes, the onboard unit should be all that is necessary to protect all that expensive stuff inside the Oliver from damage.  But, what if it fails for some reason?  I have the tools, I have the time, and I simply hate to shell out money for something that I could have prevented by taking an extra 30 seconds.

    Bill

    Bill & JD, I concur! 

    When working around electricity and expensive equipment, "anal tendencies" save the day.   

    As Bill said, the on board surge protector should protect everything on board even when I'm not standing at the pedestal with a meter or tester (like to Sperry unit RB linked to above).  The meter and/or tester will catch switched polarity or open ground but over/under voltage can happen anytime and not be caused by anything happening within the pedestal itself.  If problems are caught early, it offers an opportunity to switch sites to one that has a clean feed.  

    • Like 2
  21. 4 hours ago, topgun2 said:

    Trainman - 

    Your situation sounds a bit strange to me.  My "normal" routine when plugging into a pedestal is to use a circuit tester first, if all is good I turn the pedestal circuit breakers back off and then plug is the Furrion cord and check its led's, if all is still good I (once again) turn off the circuit breakers and plug the Furrion cord into my Oliver and turn the circuit breakers back on.  This is the point where the surge protector comes into play and unlike yours, usually by the time I get around the camper, in the door, and look at the read-out, my microwave will "beep" and I will see an "E-0" on the read-out.  No other noises other than a fairly small "klunk" which is the automatic transfer switch doing its thing.

    I don't know if that means your is faulty, going through a "reset process" or if something else is going on.  However, a quick phone call to the company should give you the answer you desire.

    Bill

    Hey Bill,

    Perhaps a silly question but considering that the on-board surge protector supposedly has built in protection including over/under voltage, reversed polarity, ground fault, etc... why is it worth it to go through the steps you described with your portable unit?  I would have assumed that the trailer itself is well protected with the on-board unit acting as a stop gap for any questionable electrical situations.  

    I habitually use a multi meter to quick check polarity and ground when working with an unknown source but would have that step would be redundant in this situation.  Do I have it wrong?

  22. On 11/22/2020 at 3:17 PM, John E Davies said:

    I have a huge level mounted on the front, I try to position the trailer so it is dead level left to right, by moving forward or backward a few feet, then adjust the other way if needed. You can see the level from the drivers seat, it is much easier than that teeny bubble on top of the tongue jack. Ideally you don’t need to do anything else, if the tongue is a few inches low you can raise it and the TV up without unhitching. If the back is low, use the rears.  I really prefer not using any jacks at all, and leaving everything fully hooked up. It saves lots of time, and in an emergency you can hightail it out with minimal delay.

    If you do this, flag the gear shift with something bright, to remind you to raise any jacks before leaving. You really don’t want to drive with them near the ground...l

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    I checked out your link to level mounting instructions.  As usual, they were very clear and nicely laid out.  I'll bring the bits and pieces to do so on my maiden voyage at the beginning of December and do the mounting down south before coming back to the wicked frozen north.  Thanks on that John.

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 1
  23.  

    4 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

    I use wood blocks similar to Bill’s.  Mine are 6” and then I use legos to raise them where I want them. I’ve got one for each jack (3) and then one additional that is a little over 4”.  I also carry a few short lengths of 2X6 for odd situations.

     

    3AEBFE62-B7FF-4CBA-9753-0A2739BA8B4B.jpeg

     

    2 hours ago, topgun2 said:

    Gap - 

    I've had no problem with the 6 inch footprint in that the diameter of the Oliver's jacks is basically 6 inches - see Mike's picture above.  This includes fairly extensive boondocking.  I'm not sure that the 8x8's would really give you very much and would be just that much more difficult to store.  Both the Camco and Andersen style "buckets" are nice but as I mentioned earlier - they can not be laid on their sides when a shorter length is desired and I would guess that they are a bit more difficult to store - round things (difficult) versus square things (easier).

    Bill

    Really great info all around.  Now I know the footprint of the lever(s) base.  Super useful.  If 6x6 has been working in a boondocky situation, that is awesome as it saves me the extra weight of super sizing to 8x8.  As mentioned, the buckets seem like a great item but are not space efficient and wouldn't save much weight.  I can use a few 2x boards to 1) build up the jack blocks as needed and/or 2) build up the leveling wedges as needed.  A secondary benefit is avoiding having to buy more plastic stuff (leveling buckets, blocks).  We feel good about avoiding where possible.  Thanks for the input.

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