tripmushrv
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Posts posted by tripmushrv
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Not sure if anyone is interested, but I have been updating my checklist as I learn more. Attached is the newest version. Again, if you see any issues, please let me know. And if you are interested in it, just move on to the next post. Thanks!
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Thanks Jumper69. I am just glad at least one person find it helpful - this doc is really geared toward the newbie or people who need explicit instructions. Anyway, I have make a very couple of minor changes to it, but one big change is that I sanitized the water system yesterday...so I have finally completed those instructions (#14). Again, if anyone see any errors or see a way to make improvements to it, I would love to hear from you! Have a great day!!
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Just what I wanted to hear, John! Thanks!
I have a Renogy 20A Voyager, which as your know, is a PWM charge controller. I bought it because it was a cheap way to dip my feet in the 'solar waters', and I knew it would fit in the waterproof box I bought (same as Galway Girls), and it wasn't too expensive....but I know it would be better to have a MPPT one. So I totally agree with your advice....I will keep the Renogy for emergencies, but buy a nice MPPT one to put under the bed (that has bluetooth so I can monitor it with my phone).
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Hi all! I recently set up a portable solar panel that connects to a charge controller that connects to my ZAMP outlet (big THANKS to Galway Girl for the post on how to do it, and for answering a lot of my questions!). But could I install my charge controller AFTER the ZAMP outlet (so it would be under ones on the beds inside the Ollie) but before the 20 AMP fuse, or must the charge controller be installed between the solar panels and the ZAMP outlet? Thanks.
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John and Jodi....let me first say congrats on the new Ollie! You are gonna love it!!
Personally, my memory it absolutely terrible! I will also admit that while I consider myself of at least average intelligence, I sometimes lack a little bit of common sense (pains me to say it) - probably because I always rush through things. So I still use the checklist religiously. We have done 4 trips so far wit the Ollie, so I MAY be able to get to a campsite and set up the campsite and unhitch the trailer; and breakdown a campsite and hitch up the trailer without using the checklist, but could easily forget to do something important and screw things up. So I use my checklist. Plus, my list also has instructions for things I don't do very often (like winterize or de-winterize the Ollie) - so in those cases, I will probably always follow the checklist. Plus, in case something happens to me, my wife could use it (in fact, we usually work as a team to get the checklist done).
To answer your questions....yes, I definitely feel alot more confident about doing many things now that I have had time to play with the Ollie. But not enough to get rid of the checklists.
How has the checklist changed? Well, in terms of hitching and unhitching, it probably has a couple of changes, but I don't think it has had any radical changes since I started the checklist (plus, I have done minor rewording, or rewriting to make things a bit clearer). But I have added new checklists, like the winterizing/de-winterizing ones, and am still working on the 'sterilizing the water system' checklist.
Thanks for the kudos.....let me know if you helps you, or if you would make any changes to it!
Trey
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Thanks Boudicca! Again, probably most people don't need to have it so detailed, but I will attach the latest version of my doc here. If you see any errors or have any questions about it, let me know. Thanks!
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Ok - after actually owning my Ollie for a couple of months now (and taking some trips with it), I have updated my checklists. Here is the newest one....for those that are interested.
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Thanks bhncb! I should have said that I ordered the tires, but they are still in transit and not installed. What tire installers would you recommend I go with so that I get the addendum added? Or should I just ask whomever I am thinking with going with if they will add the addendum?
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Ok - so I finally landed on the MICHELIN LTX A/T 2 - LT275 /65 R18 123R E1 RWL for my Toyota Tundra. I did NOT go with the P275 /65 R18 114T SL BSW TM as they are not 'E' rated tires. What are your thoughts....did I buy a good tire for towing? I know the ride will be a little rough because they are 'E' rated tires, but that is ok. I did hear that I should keep a higher pressure when towing, and lower the pressure when not towing. Any thoughts on that, and maybe some ideas on what PSI's? Thanks!
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Thanks for the info, guys. John - I checked out your master battery cutoff switch post - and it looks very nice! But am looking for something a bit simpler. Do you think something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Horizontal-Vertical/dp/B07Z4R7W2D/ ?
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Sorry to hijack this thread....but would this work for the Ollie I will be getting (that will have 4x 6V AGM batteries): https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B07413JWLD/ ? The specs say: 275 A continuous at DC 12V, 455 A intermittent at DC 12V, 1250 A momentary at DC 12V
But I think that 4x 6V AGM would give me 400 amps, right? (Edited - sorry, that would be maybe 400 amp hours...I'm confused!)
Or do I need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B07PN9DR6C/?th=1 ? It says: 600 A continuous at DC 12V, 2500 A momentary at DC 12V.
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Thanks John and Jim.
Yeah, I have heard these torque wrenches should not be used as breaker bars, and should be handled delicately. Thanks for the info.
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Thanks Jim and Mike/Carol. I just bought a torque wrench, and have watched some Youtube videos (along with reading the instructions that came with it), so I feel with a little practice I will be able to check them with the torque wrench.
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A big thanks to all that have looked so far....I know, this is mind numbing. I do enjoy researching and writing these up, and will enjoy actually going through the checklist after I get my Ollie....maybe I am a bit weird. Haha!
Mike – great advice.
1) I thought that I read of some issue when allowing the refrigerator to auto switch – hence while I know it is possible, I think I will just do it manually.
2) I have been told that it is fine to keep the pump on 24x7…but would love to hear what other people do.
3) I will have the Truma On-demand water heater. Maybe someone can chime in on if there is anything to do with that when arriving or leaving?
4) Great idea about walking around the site for trailer placement. I will add it to the checklist.
5) I thought I read that if the site does NOT have a breaker (or off/on switch), then it was best to attach electric cable to RV first, then to campsite electrical box. So I figured I would just plug in trailer first, then campsite electrical box. But I could be wrong…either way, at the worst, it shouldn’t matter if I put into camper first.
6) Good point about gray/blackwater being on the same outlet. I have updated checklist. I agree that at the when I use the last dump station on a trip, that I should flush the black tank a couple of time. I will update my checklist with that info.
7) I will add ‘check lug nuts’ to pre-trip checklist. Can you tell me how I actually check them? Should I just use my hand and verify they are tight?
😎 I heard it is best to travel with less water….for gas milage. But I do agree that I don’t want to have to top it off near the boondocking site. I will update my checklist to fill all of the way.
9) Great point – I have changed ‘white water’ to ‘fresh water’.
10)
Ray – thanks for the rewrite. I separated that outside and inside sections (1a/1b and 2a/2b) because I am blessed to have a wife that will be helping me….so she will take the inside stuff and I will do the outside stuff in parallel. Although we do plan on switching it up sometimes so we can have a better understanding of how to do it, just in case one of us is sick or traveling solo.
I agree that sometimes the order does make a difference. I tried to be very mindful of that, ad tried to order it correctly – but if order did not matter, I tried to order it so it was done efficiently. That being said, yes, please let me know if it could be better.
Great point about checking power and water before unhooking…I will update the checklist.
I changed the unhitching process by changing some of the terms I used – yours were better. I think one of the big differences between your and mine, though, is the fact that in mine, I remove the hutch coupler pin (but do NOT pull up on it) a lot earlier. That is because I followed the most current ‘Anderson hitch – instructional guide’ video put up by Oliver (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPT_-4rBDbo). In that video, they run the 7-pin through the ‘metal clip of the bulldog coupler’ – so in my checklist, that would need to be done very early on. Anyway, my #7 (now #10) looks like this:
10) To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer):
A) Unlock hitch lock.
B) Detach safety emergency brake cable from truck and stow.
C) Remove hitch coupler pin (that has 7-pin electric pigtail under it) from hitch coupler lever and stow.
D) Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow.
E) Detach safety chains from truck and stow.
F) Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in.
G) Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack.
H) Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin.
I) Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out).
J) Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin.
K) Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground.
L) Raise front jack leg so tongue is level with truck hitch.
M) Pull up on hitch coupler lever.
N) Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball. If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch.
O) Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock.
Good point about opening shower drain when dumping….I have updated the checklist.
I have removed the A/C cover reference.
Jim – yes, I have spent hours poring though those checklists, but found that I, being a newbie (and maybe a bit mentally challenged) needed a lot more in-depth info.
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Hi All!
I will be picking up my Ollie in less than 2 months. Again, as a newbie to RVing, I am still trying to learn…but so far, I feel I have learned a lot from reading these forums – so a big thanks to all of you! Anyway, I have looked at different checklists on how to set up and break down the trailer, trailer hookup, trip preparation, etc. After looking at tons of checklists (and Youtube videos), I have attempted to create my own checklists. Some may look at these lists and think they have too much info, and that they are overkill – but personally, I work better with very specific instructions.
Although these checklists are long, I was hoping that you guys would look and provide feedback on them. Did I miss steps? Is the order correct? Did I use the correct terminology? And so on. I know this is a big ask as the lists are longs on detailed....but any help would be appreciated. If worst comes to worse, I guess I will find out if they are correct when I go to use them.
Note that if you see RED in the script, then it is a question I have or something I still need to fill out – so if you have the answer, I would love to hear it.
I have attached a document with the checklists, but I have also cut and pasted the checklist below....just to make it easier for anyone. The document is in .docx format...if you need it in another format, let me know. Also, after I complete the checklist and go through them a couple of times, I will post a file with all the updates of them so it can be downloaded by anyone interested in it.
Thanks!
(1a) Campsite arrival and set up - Inside trailer
1) Put steps down of Ollie.
2) Unlock Ollie door.
3) Open window shades.
4) Open windows as needed.
5) ? Open stove vent ?
6) Pull out shower drain cutoff valve (inside bathroom at toilet base) to open shower drain.
7) Open bathroom fan vent.
😎 Open Maxx fan lid/vent if it is not open.
9) If propane was not on: Verify stove is off, turn on propane outside, and light stove burner for 30 seconds (to remove air from line).
10) If at RV park (with electrical): Switch refrigerator from ‘LP’ (propane) to electric.
11) Verify refrigerator is working correct AND in correct mode (should be ‘LP’ if not at RV park with electric).
12) If boondocking and using fresh water tank: Turn on water pump. (but maybe turn on faucet first?)
13) Verify kitchen faucet is working.
14) Turn on gas water heater switch ?
15) Turn off backup camera. ?
16) Turn on furnace if cold.
17) If at RV park AND electrical is hooked up: Turn on A/C if hot.
18) Put out welcome mat, chairs, etc
(1b) Campsite arrival and set up - Outside trailer
1) Using spotter, back up into campsite. Watch out for branches.
2) ? Turn off GPS in vehicle. ?
3) Put on work gloves.
4) Eyeball trailer is not too far and will be able to hook up to sewer, electrical, and water.
5) Level trailer side to side using Anderson levelers. Use level inside for final determination.
6) Set chocks - front and back of both wheels. Important: set chocks before detaching
safety chains or the trailer from the hitch!
7) To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer):
A) Detach breakaway cable from truck and stow.
B) Remove hitch coupler pin (that has electric pigtail under it) from hitch coupler lever and stow.
C) Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow.
D) Detach safety breakaway cord from truck and stow.
E) Detach safety chains from truck and stow.
F) Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in.
G) Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack.
H) Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin.
I) Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out).
J) Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin.
K) Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground.
L) Raise front jack leg so tongue is level with truck hitch.
M) Pull up on hitch coupler lever.
N) Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball. If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch.
O) Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock.
😎 Move truck to parking spot.
9) Raise or lower front jack leg onto leveling block to level trailer front to rear. Use level inside for
final determination.
10) Lower rear stabilizer legs onto leveling blocks to stabilize back of Ollie.
11) After making sure that stove, heater, furnace, and water heater are off: Turn on propane
12) If at RV park: Hook up electric:
A) Attach one end of electrical cord to RV. Note: Always hook up to RV first!!!
B) Attach the other end to surge suppressor.
C) Attach surge suppressor to 50-amp converter if needed.
D) Verify that breaker is OFF on pole side before plugging in.
E) Connect converter (or surge suppressor) to park electric outlet.
F) Make sure no faults are detected by surge suppressor.
G) Turn on breaker.
13) If at RV park: Hook up water:
A) Wipe off water faucet with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant).
B) Attach ‘Y’ to faucet.
C) Attach 55 PSI pressure regulator to ‘Y’.
D) Attach inline filter to pressure regulator.
E) Attach white water hose to inline filter.
F) Attach white water hose to city water line.
G) Do NOT turn on water pump inside Ollie!
14) If at RV park: Hook up gray water sewage:
A) Put on gloves.
B) Bring out sewage drain hose support and put sewage drain hose on it.
C) Remove cap and attach sewage drain hose to sewage hole.
D) DO NOT pull out grey tank handle to open. Save grey water for cleaning sewage hose.
15) Check water heater for propane odor - light pilot and turn on or use auto ignite on newer models.
16) Turn furnace electric switch on - older model have switch on the furnace under the sink, newer
models do not have a switch. Not sure if we have a switch or not.
17) Extent and secure awning (optional).
(2a) Campsite departure preparation - Inside trailer
1) Clean up, put stuff away, secure items.
2) Vacuum.
3) Refrigerator - check inside, throw away anything old, latch door tightly, switch to ‘LP’ (propane)
(if you were set to electric), and verify that refrigerator is running on propane.
4) If dumping garbage: Collect and bag garbage AND put in truck.
5) Turn off TV and stow away.
6) Verify stove burners are off.
7) Secure microwave glass plate (maybe in sink?).
😎 Close and secure ALL windows (including bathroom window). Note that non-bathroom windows
can be left open ( < 4 inches) if there is no rain in the forecast and the day is hot.
9) Close ALL window shades (so they don’t have problems when traveling) unless windows are kept
open.
10) Close bathroom fan vent.
11) Push in shower drain shutoff valve (inside bathroom at toilet base) to close shower drain.
12) If dumping garbage: Collect and bag garbage AND put in truck.
13) Turn off A/C.
14) Turn off furnace and lower thermostat.
15) Turn off Maxx fan - close lid/vent, turn switch and speed to off, thermostat on red. Note that the
Maxx fan lid/vent can be left open if there is no rain in the forecast.
16) Make sure ALL cabinet and drawers are closed tightly.
17) Lock bathroom door.
18) Lock pantry and front closet door.
19) Turn on backup camera ?
20) Turn off water pump.
21) Bring in any outside mats.
22) Turn off all lights.
(2b) Campsite departure preparation - Outside trailer
1) If at RV park/dump station: Raise 2 rear stabilizer jacks a foot.
2) If at RV park/dump station: Raise front of trailer one-half foot using electric stabilization jack so
grey tank will flow out better. DO NOT raise so high that 2 rear stabilizer jacks touch ground!
3) If at RV park/dump station: Put on disposable gloves.
4) If at dump station: Connect sewage drain hose to sewer hole (it should already be attached if at RV park).
5) If at RV park/dump station: Empty black tank by pulling out black tank handle to open.
6) If at RV park/dump station: Verify sewage drain hose has stopped draining.
7) If at RV park/dump station: Push in black tank handle to close.
1) If at RV park/dump station: Empty grey tank by pulling out grey tank handle to open.
2) If at RV park/dump station: Verify sewage drain hose has stopped draining.
3) If at RV park/dump station: Push in grey tank handle to close.
4) If at RV park: Turn off white tank water at RV faucet.
5) If at RV park: Disconnect white water hose, spray with disinfectant, connect ends, and stow.
6) If at RV park/dump station: Spray black tank water hose with disinfectant and attach to RV
faucet.
7) If at RV park/dump station: Attached black tank water hose to black tank flush inlet.
😎 If at RV park/dump station: Turn on water at faucet.
9) If at RV park/dump station: Monitor black tank from inside RV. When 2/3 full, pull open black
tank handle.
10) If at RV park/dump station: When running clear, turn off water at faucet.
11) If at RV park/dump station: Disconnect black tank water hose, spray with disinfectant, connect ends, and stow.
12) If at RV park/dump station: Squeeze sewage drain hose so any excess goes into sewer hole.
13) If at RV park/dump station: Disconnect sewage drain hose from sewer hole
14) If at RV park/dump station: Spray sewage drain hose with disinfectant, cap, and stow.
15) If at RV park/dump station: Throw away gloves and wash hands.
16) If at RV park/dump station: Spray water hose ends with disinfectant, connect ends, and stow.
17) If at RV park: Turn off electric from electrical hookup.
18) If at RV park: Disconnect electrical cord from RV and stow.
19) If at RV park: Disconnect cable TV cord from RV and stow.
20) Stow outside thermometer.
21) Get any items you need for truck from inside trailer (water, keys, etc.).
22) Close and secure awning.
23) Bring up both stabilizers and front tongue support jacks. Stow all 3 leveling blocks.
24) Water heater - off.
25) ? Secure stove vent. ?
26) ? Put on A/C cover. ?
27) Walk around trailer and stow anything left out.
28) Lock outside storage compartments.
29) Verify all lights are out.
30) Lock trailer door.
31) Raise aluminum steps.
32) Hitch up truck to travel trailer. Follow instructions in '(3) Trailer Hookup' section below.
1) Back up truck to hitch about 6 inches from trailer hitch - make sure you are straight.
2) Need to add part if trailer and truck are not straight to each other (could be tough to set up
WDH).
3) Raise rear stabilizer legs all the way up and stow both leveling blocks.
4) Unlock hitch coupler lock and stow.
5) Pull up on hitch coupler lever.
6) Put leveling block under, then lower front jack leg to raise tongue so ball receiver (on trailer) will
clear the hitch ball (on truck).
7) Back up truck as to position hitch ball under ball receiver, but just a little forward - about a 1/2".
😎 Raise front jack leg to lower tongue onto hitch, until hitch is snug with ball.
9) Push down on hitch coupler lever to lock hitch onto ball.
10) Insert hitch coupler pin into hitch coupler lever (so secure it).
11) Lower front jack leg until no weight on truck hitch. This not only verifies the lock/ball is secure,
but allows easier installation of WDH.
12) Take cotter pin out of WDH triangle pin.
13) Slide WHD triangle under the hitch
14) Secure WDH triangle with WDH triangle pin.
15) Insert cotter pin in WDH triangle pin to secure it.
16) Raise front jack leg all the way up.
17) Verify that WDH chains are tight.
18) Attach safety chains to truck so they crisscross UNDER tow bar.
19) Attach 7-pin electrical pigtail to truck (under hitch coupler pin).
20) Attach safety breakaway cord to truck (NOT to safety chains).
21) Remove chocks and stow.
22) Pull trailer forward a little - recheck hitch to see if secure.
23) Pick up Anderson levelers and any
24) Test trailer brake lights and turn signals.
25) Walk around trailer and stow anything left out.
(4) When leaving the RV for a hike or car trip
1) Retract awning.
2) Bring in any items that you don't want wet or blown away.
3) Turn off generator and lock it up.
4) Put away solar.
5) Check A/C or heat – turn on if needed.
6) Lock up trailer.
(5) Trip Preparation (leaving home)
1) One day before: Connect RV to shore power (AC).
2) One day before: Check propane tanks and fill if needed.
3) One day before: Verify stove is off.
4) One day before: Open up propane valve.
5) One day before: Turn on stove for 30 seconds to clear air from propane lines.
6) One day before: Turn refrigerator on to AC and set to 9 (which is the coldest setting).
7) Check air in tires - fill to recommended psi of tires.
😎 Fill fresh water tank about 1/3 full - top it off at or near your destination.
9) Open hot water tank bypass valve - handle in vertical position to open, horizontal to bypass.
10) Turn on pump and run all faucets (not all at once) from the rear to the front - hot and cold to
remove air.
11) Run water into toilet to remove air from lines and to add water to black tank before use.
12) Day of trip: Follow instructions in ‘(2a) Campsite departure preparation - Inside trailer’ section
above.
13) Day of trip: Disconnect electrical cord from RV and stow.
14) Day of trip: Follow instructions in '(2b) Campsite departure preparation - Outside trailer’ section
above, including any instructions in the ‘(3) Trailer Hookup’ section. Ignore any ‘If at RV
park/dump station’ instructions.
15) Open Maxx fan vent.
(6) Trip ending (arriving home)
1) Follow instructions in '(1b) Campsite arrival and set up - Outside trailer’ section above.
2) Put steps down of Ollie.
3) Unlock Ollie door.
4) Turn off backup camera. ?
5) Remove all items from refrigerator. Turn off refrigerator. Make sure door stays open.
6) Put dog towels in refrigerator to capture water from defrosting.
7) Turn off propane.
😎 Empty water tank.
9) Close Maxx fan vent.
10) Close window shades.
(7) Filling up 30 gallon white water tank from water spigot (fresh water inlet)
1) Wipe off water faucet with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant)
2) Attach 55 PSI pressure regulator to water faucet.
3) Attach inline filters to pressure regulator.
4) Attach white water hose to inline filter.
5) Attach white water hose to fresh water tank inlet.
6) Turn on water until water overflows or Seelevel monitor says it is full - then turn off water.
7) Detach pressure regulator from water faucet.
😎 Detach white water hose from inline filter.
9) Squeeze out water from white water hose, then detach from fresh water tank inlet.
10) Wipe off white water hose with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant), connect ends.
11) Stow white water hose, pressure regulator, and inline filters.
(8) Filling up 30 gallon white water tank from water container or jugs (via boondocking inlet) while you are boondocking
1) Wipe off boondocking inlet with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant)
2) Attach white water hose to boondocking inlet behind Ollie.
3) Attach white water hose to jug or container holding the water.
4) Turn ALL 4 valves counter clockwise. As info:
a) upper left valve opens from rear boondocking inlet.
b) lower left valve opens from fresh water tank.
c) lower middle valve closes from faucets.
d) lower right valve closed from city water.
5) Tun on pump – water will start flowing from water jugs to fresh water tank.
6) When all water has been pumped in, turn off pump.
7) Detach white water hose from inline filter.
😎 Squeeze out water from white water hose, then detach from boondocking inlet.
9) Wipe off white water hose with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant), connect ends.
10) Stow white water hose, pressure regulator, and inline filters.
11) To continue boondocking:
a) Turn upper left valve clockwise to close rear boondocking inlet.
b) Turn lower middle valve clockwise to open faucets.
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Thanks everyone, for all the info....I am sure I will have more questions before I pick up our Ollie in Sept!
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Thanks all! Sorry - total newbie here...one more question about the Collar hitch lock. It will work with the Anderson hitch, right?
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Just so I understand...there are basically two options discussed in this thread.
The first option comes as a complete set: https://www.provenlocks.com/products/model-2178-b
The second option is to get a collar (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HL2NM0K/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_TVVjEb0CNR2JA) and a lock (could use either of these, for example: https://www.amazon.com/20-Diskus-Padlock-Extreme-Security/dp/B004GAN03O/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=abus+20%2F70&qid=1625846042&s=hi&sr=1-5 or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5IYT2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=unitedlocks20-20&linkId=25f7d0bcd04bdade42aacad06c0419ad)
For the second option (collar and lock) - can it be used both then hitched and unhitched? Or would you just use the lock alone when hitched?
Thanks!
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I want to thank everyone for the input. Since Michelin was mentioned multiple times in this thread, I have focused on them. I am looking at the Michelin Agilis Crossclimate tires, as I live in PA and we can get some snow here (and they have the ‘snowflake’ symbol on them). Any last thoughts before I put the trigger? Here is a link: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Agilis+CrossClimate&partnum=765R8ACC&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Toyota&autoYear=2018&autoModel=Tundra 4WD&autoModClar=CrewMax
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Thanks guys! I did a little more research...looks like should be going with E rated tires...does that sound right?
Seadawg...I don't have Costco membership, but do have a Sam's Club one which should be comparable. You mentioned 'little snowpeak'. Is that on the tire tread?
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Hi all! First post here. I have read a lot of the posts in these forums and really have learned a lot. Kudos to all you posters! My wife and I are getting our LE II in September – very excited! I have never had a travel trailer or RV (or even a pickup truck) before, so this is all new to us. I have been doing research and watching Youtube for the last year, so I have picked up a bit of info – but I am still a wannabe newbie.
Anyway, I brought a 2018 Toyota Tundra about 4 months ago, and I need to get new tires for it. It currently has Michelin LTX A/T2 P275/65–R18 tires on it. I won’t be doing any off-roading, and would like to have a quiet, smooth ride and good gas milage (well, as good as I can with a Tundra). I live in PA, so they also need to be good in the snow. I will mostly be using my truck for just commuting to work and driving around town, with the occasional trip with the Ollie. I went to tirerack.com, but there are like 100 tires that are recommended for my truck in the P275/65-R18 range!
I have tried to do research on tires, but am very confused. I understand the treadwear, traction, and temperature ratings (my currently tires are 500/A/B), but that is about all I understand. For example: E rated vs P rated vs LT tires, or all-season vs Crossover vs on/off road all-terrain (AT?). It seems I should care about ‘load range’ (whatever that is). What types of tires, in general, are good for towing? Any suggestions? I don’t want to spend an arm and a leg, but definitely would spend more to be safe!!Thanks!
Checklists - for setting up, breaking down, hitching up, etc....help me in my quest for checklists!
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted · Edited by tripmushrv
Wanted to add a link.
Hey Topgun2!
Get idea about per 3-1. I will add that change! I just wonder if rain would wash out the mark I make....but still a great idea!
Yeah - per 5-9: Let me see what Oliver says, or if I can find it the torque values somewhere on this site. Edited: Founds it, and it is 90:
Thanks!!